I have just bought a CR-10S as my first home 3D printer along with Simplify3D. These setting you have kindly provided are a massive game changer in print quality. It has also solved my issue with getting a good base layer down which I was struggling to get right. Changing the script codes on start and end work great. Thank you
Have been using your settings as a starter point for almost a year and you made the jump into 3d printing so much easier. I simply dont have the problems you hear about, prints are perfect, sometimes I tweak for specialty projects, but overall these are top notch settings that eliminate lot's of issues, and also allow to print rather fast in my case at least, using a couple cr-10 minis. Thanks again!
Finally had the chance to get my CR-10 set up. His name is "Honda" (like Honda "CRX"). Used your settings for my first print on this machine (and it was successful on the very first attempt!!!) with S3D and Hatchbox PLA on bare glass with no bed adhesives and it worked great. I will do some minor tweaking for my first layer, etc. preferences but this was the best head start and anyone should get instant great results with the initial settings as is. THANK YOU!!!
For those hitting the binder clips just change the 3rd line of code and keep the clip up front just to the right of your home position of the extruder fan. Seem to help my issue. ( G1 X70 Y2 F1500 ; avoid binder clips ) Hope this helps!
Seems like a well supported printer. Just grabbed a cr10 S5 and Simplify3d, a laser option, and a Sony 3d scanning cellphone, the XZ1 Compact version. Almost a Star Trek device. Simplify3d takes about 4 weeks to arrive, however was able to download the printer within a few minutes. Someday maybe software won't have to travel by ocean going vessels.🍔🍔🍔
I know this video is old, but I need to point out something as I am constantly trying to better understand and [obsessively] improve my printer's settings. I am currently running an Ender 3, but this applies to all printers. He states that you never want to go above 100% first layer height. This is just incorrect and misleading. In fact this setting is commonly misunderstood and poorly explained. According to Simplify3D if you go below 100% it's going to lower the nozzle height thus squishing the first layer and improving bed adhesion due to uneven beds (which yours and everyone's is). This is useful for the fact that no matter how much you tram (not level) your bed it will never be perfect because your physical bed is uneven. Going above 100% first layer height does NOT lift the nozzle higher, but rather extrudes more filament by that amount. Indeed this is misleading on Simplify3D's part, but after doing extensive tests using single layer print squares I can tell you that this is completely accurate. I have also found that going above 100% (I've found 120% with a well trammed bed to be a good amount, but this depends on your physical bed) works much better than going below 100%. Extruding more than 100% still accounts for uneven surfaces and it creates a better infill between the layer lines. But you never know til' you try. So please, tram your bed using a folded piece of paper (not single; that's ridiculous b/c as I've said already your bed is uneven) and print single layer test squares all over the bed, rinse and repeat until it's good enough. If you don't do that first (yes, it can take hours) you're setting yourself up for failure and will resort to other features, i.e. first layer height %, as a false compensation for a poorly trammed bed. Then print 3 single layer test squares (ideally in the center where your bed is likely trammed more evenly): 90%, 100%, and 120% first layer height respectively for each square. You will see the difference.
Hi Anthony, thanks for the reply. The mounting is correct, and when it homes it is at the very edge of my build plate which when doing a purging move hits the clips. So I decided to change this line of the code G1 X20 Y2 F1500 to G1 X20 Y20 F1500 so that it would clear the clips.
Awesome stuff man, thank you very much you gave me an awesome starting point! This is working amazingly and it's fun to tweak and play with your settings that you gave and very easy to go back to your settings if I screw up too much. All I can say is I'm getting amazing print times and quite decent quality from what I can tell. this is my first 3d printer. So I don't have much to go from hahaha.
Helpful, thanks :). I think your explanation of the first layer height is wrong though - if your layer height is 0.1mm and the object is 1cm, then 100% first layer height will give you 10 layers. If you change this to 200%, you have 9 layers - the first being 0.2mm (you should see it in s3d quite clearly). I'm unsure if there's much advantage in making it less than 100%, but making it more can definitely help getting that first layer sticking well (I tend to find that a first layer of 0.2mm works very well, but 0.1mm will invariably fail though not necessarily immediately...).
Thanks for the great video. I have only just fired up my CR10, and I must say I agree with your assessments. I know this is off topic, but I need to pause my prints to insert nuts. I have a Makerbot Replicator 2, and it is easy to set breaks on the machine itself, but this is not possible on the CR10. Do you have any ideas?
Great video! I too have a CR-10 and I'm really loving it so far, but I have been fighting with my retraction settings a bit...have you had any issues with any start/end marks? Because that's what I'm getting right now...
Thanks, and subscribed! Funny I was looking at the settings details and did not notice the audio sync issue at all, until you said so :-) Happy New Years!
Thanks for the video I tried to import the fff it said it was successful but it did not show up in the list and I had to manually add it. I had a hard time making out many of your settings it was not clear on the screen.
Hi I just bought a CR - 10 V2 and used your recommendedsettings. Thank you so much for the information. I noticed that I am having difficulty with the first layer it seems very thin when I place it can you recommend anything I can do or a way to thicken it up. I was using cura before and want to start using simplify3d. It doesn't seem to be sticking properly. Is there a way I can increase the amount of material at the onset? I have my bed calibrated perfectly so any advice would help greatly thank you!!!
I appreciate you offering this profile! I am noticing some stringing on this...any tips where to fine tune that away? (On the travel moves to be exact)
Thanks...I am going to try another thing first...under Advanced and Ooze Control , unchecking "Only retract when crossing open spaces". The print is perfect except the stringing on travel moves. I'll let you know!
(any version) hyper cube printer is in my opinion better than the creality. prints at fast speeds with great quality. I print on 110-130mm with 0.15-0.3 layer height and I get fantastic results. Though the Creality is still a great printer for its price.
Great Video, was searching a whole day for instructions how to set up S3D and my CR10. Thank you so much mate!! A last question to make me happy: Is there a Gcode I can put in the End Script so that the CR10 does not drive the bed towards the back when he is finished but to the front instead? Would "G28 X0 Y0 " do that job?
It's Ironic that XSplit messed you up via variable framerate at the very moment that the recommendation is given to avoid variable start points in Simplify3D! ;)
Hi Anthony, hope you could help me out. My cr10 keeps hitting my binder clips during the quick wipe move at the start of printing. Is there a way to adjust the quick wipe so that it would not hit the clips. My clips are at the same area as yours. THanks.
Can you hook up a scanner to the device? So that you can 3d print objects. Or is there a program to get a 3d rendering of the thing you want to print off the internet?
ive downloaded the FFF file and used it on simplify3d and ive got a few probs. ive got a CR10 Mini so thought i would use the file and just adjust the build volume, but im finding that when i start a print the head goes to the far corner and knocks into my glass clips. also it seems to not leave any room for the masking tape im using and scrapes the nozzle into the tape. what do i neend to change?
Just got myself a cr10 S, do you have any advice for what to change if I wanted to print 0.05mm? I'm a 3d artist and I sorta want the best resolution possible.
Hi! nice video....I just got one problem.....I put all the parameters exactly as you said in the video but when i started my printing I noticed that it was really really really slow. I checked the speed and all was great.....Do you have any suggestion? please let me know...Thanks :)
I just cant get the cooling to work for each of the layers. I even imported your profile into simplify3d but it made no difference. Everything else is working fine it seems. I am wondering if it has something to do with a difference in the firmware of my CR-10S? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
How do I install the FFF file? when i click on the link I just get to a document full o code... can't copy that code to a text file andsave it as .fff either.. it doesn't work if I do that....? Help
Great video thanks for the tips. Question, Your print speeds seem to be drastically slower than the Default profile, after putting in your settings and placing the thingiverse T-rex skull at its default scale, Simplify tells me it will take 541 Hours!
So I used these setting after purchasing S3D and went with my first print. I noticed the print would constantly pause. Such as it would print the first skirt line, then pause for about 10 seconds and then automatically continue. Then continue on and constantly pause at what seems to be every time a new line is started. I feel like this issue is what may also be given me ridiculously long print time estimates. (6 1/2 hours for a benchy!) Before someone mentions mm/min, I already changed my preferences to mm/s and it is at 60 mm/s as in the video. Can anyone help me narrow down the issue?
I am still using S3D for all of my printers (except the Zortrax ). The settings I use may be different to what you need due to filament brand and ambient conditions. Best bet is to S3D default for your printer and tweak from there.
Hi !! Great Video :) I was wondering if you could give me some precisions as of the settings supplement in S3D Ver 4.0.0? In the FFF Setings on the last tab (Advanced) there is now a Single extrusion settings section with 4 new paremeters. I'm not really sure what those should be set to, and wouldn't want to mess with those without knowing. Thx in advance for your help, You now have a new subscriber ;)
PhotoSlash I see it looks like no one had gotten back to you and I was reading the mail. Just set ur printer up when first install Simplify. Most of the feeds and speeds are much the same. Actually the main difference in the two machines ar3 the build area and motherboard. Hope it helps.
They are all based off the Prusa Design and all slightly different. Example: This one has nearly all metal parts and no 3d printed parts = stiffer, stronger - but essentially all based off prusa
Thanks, I am happy with the Wombot, but want to go to 300x300 for Helmets (currently stuck with 250x250). I'm trying to decide between the CR-10 and the FT-5
the CR10 sale finishes in a couple of days then it goes back up to its normal price im told of 450~ but there is another coupon in description to make it 399 - right now its 369
FT5 is $474 with our coupon - in terms of print quality for PLA/PETG ive noticed not much if any - ABS, the FT5 is easier to enclose and a stationary (only z axis) bed
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I have just bought a CR-10S as my first home 3D printer along with Simplify3D. These setting you have kindly provided are a massive game changer in print quality. It has also solved my issue with getting a good base layer down which I was struggling to get right. Changing the script codes on start and end work great. Thank you
Welcome :)
New member on you Chanel New 3d world for me to try your settings on my cr10s but the fans are loud
Have been using your settings as a starter point for almost a year and you made the jump into 3d printing so much easier. I simply dont have the problems you hear about, prints are perfect, sometimes I tweak for specialty projects, but overall these are top notch settings that eliminate lot's of issues, and also allow to print rather fast in my case at least, using a couple cr-10 minis. Thanks again!
Finally had the chance to get my CR-10 set up. His name is "Honda" (like Honda "CRX"). Used your settings for my first print on this machine (and it was successful on the very first attempt!!!) with S3D and Hatchbox PLA on bare glass with no bed adhesives and it worked great. I will do some minor tweaking for my first layer, etc. preferences but this was the best head start and anyone should get instant great results with the initial settings as is. THANK YOU!!!
you are most welcome :)
Thank you I have looked for 3 days for a video like this
For those hitting the binder clips just change the 3rd line of code and keep the clip up front just to the right of your home position of the extruder fan. Seem to help my issue. ( G1 X70 Y2 F1500 ; avoid binder clips ) Hope this helps!
useful tips. after Cura, Simplify3D is a bit complicated. After the tips, I started to print and results are awesome. Thanks.
hey mate, can you make another video after 4 5 years :) for the settings in simplify3d ? because u are the last to do that from a very very long time
Your profile works amazingly on the Ender 3 after tweaking the bed size, thanks!
That's what we use as a base too :)
Came across this by chance and its made a few improvements on the CR10 smart pro - are you going to do a more modern version of these settings..?
Seems like a well supported printer. Just grabbed a cr10 S5 and Simplify3d, a laser option, and a Sony 3d scanning cellphone, the XZ1 Compact version. Almost a Star Trek device.
Simplify3d takes about 4 weeks to arrive, however was able to download the printer within a few minutes. Someday maybe software won't have to travel by ocean going vessels.🍔🍔🍔
I know this video is old, but I need to point out something as I am constantly trying to better understand and [obsessively] improve my printer's settings. I am currently running an Ender 3, but this applies to all printers. He states that you never want to go above 100% first layer height. This is just incorrect and misleading. In fact this setting is commonly misunderstood and poorly explained. According to Simplify3D if you go below 100% it's going to lower the nozzle height thus squishing the first layer and improving bed adhesion due to uneven beds (which yours and everyone's is). This is useful for the fact that no matter how much you tram (not level) your bed it will never be perfect because your physical bed is uneven. Going above 100% first layer height does NOT lift the nozzle higher, but rather extrudes more filament by that amount. Indeed this is misleading on Simplify3D's part, but after doing extensive tests using single layer print squares I can tell you that this is completely accurate. I have also found that going above 100% (I've found 120% with a well trammed bed to be a good amount, but this depends on your physical bed) works much better than going below 100%. Extruding more than 100% still accounts for uneven surfaces and it creates a better infill between the layer lines. But you never know til' you try. So please, tram your bed using a folded piece of paper (not single; that's ridiculous b/c as I've said already your bed is uneven) and print single layer test squares all over the bed, rinse and repeat until it's good enough. If you don't do that first (yes, it can take hours) you're setting yourself up for failure and will resort to other features, i.e. first layer height %, as a false compensation for a poorly trammed bed. Then print 3 single layer test squares (ideally in the center where your bed is likely trammed more evenly): 90%, 100%, and 120% first layer height respectively for each square. You will see the difference.
Hi Anthony, thanks for the reply. The mounting is correct, and when it homes it is at the very edge of my build plate which when doing a purging move hits the clips. So I decided to change this line of the code G1 X20 Y2 F1500 to G1 X20 Y20 F1500 so that it would clear the clips.
+3D Printwiz clips on side or front ?
I have my clips in front, do you suggest transferring it to the side?
+3D Printwiz yes and remove the handles off the clips
I will try that, I was just wondering though how come mine is hitting the clips while most of the videos I see, they have clips in front. Thanks.
Awesome stuff man, thank you very much you gave me an awesome starting point!
This is working amazingly and it's fun to tweak and play with your settings that you gave and very easy to go back to your settings if I screw up too much. All I can say is I'm getting amazing print times and quite decent quality from what I can tell. this is my first 3d printer. So I don't have much to go from hahaha.
Im using simplify3d by the way, with the same script as you stated in your description.
Helpful, thanks :). I think your explanation of the first layer height is wrong though - if your layer height is 0.1mm and the object is 1cm, then 100% first layer height will give you 10 layers. If you change this to 200%, you have 9 layers - the first being 0.2mm (you should see it in s3d quite clearly). I'm unsure if there's much advantage in making it less than 100%, but making it more can definitely help getting that first layer sticking well (I tend to find that a first layer of 0.2mm works very well, but 0.1mm will invariably fail though not necessarily immediately...).
For the temperature I am finding that a value of T0 is not making any effect to the bed temp :-(
Simplify3D V4 and v5
Great video. I had stopped watching when you left the channel but now I see you are back. Awesome.
I never left! just let the trolls get to me :(
Thanks for the settings. It turned my ooze machine in to a excellent 3d printer ;-)
most welcome :) Please like and subscribe, helps me a bunch
Thanks for the great video. I have only just fired up my CR10, and I must say I agree with your assessments.
I know this is off topic, but I need to pause my prints to insert nuts. I have a Makerbot Replicator 2, and it is easy to set breaks on the machine itself, but this is not possible on the CR10. Do you have any ideas?
Great video! I too have a CR-10 and I'm really loving it so far, but I have been fighting with my retraction settings a bit...have you had any issues with any start/end marks? Because that's what I'm getting right now...
Not really - Try my FFF file in the description and see how you go - You can also hide the 'start/stop' lines by popping them at the back of a print
Thanks, and subscribed! Funny I was looking at the settings details and did not notice the audio sync issue at all, until you said so :-) Happy New Years!
Thanks for the video I tried to import the fff it said it was successful but it did not show up in the list and I had to manually add it. I had a hard time making out many of your settings it was not clear on the screen.
Hi I just bought a CR - 10 V2 and used your recommendedsettings. Thank you so much for the information. I noticed that I am having difficulty with the first layer it seems very thin when I place it can you recommend anything I can do or a way to thicken it up. I was using cura before and want to start using simplify3d. It doesn't seem to be sticking properly. Is there a way I can increase the amount of material at the onset? I have my bed calibrated perfectly so any advice would help greatly thank you!!!
Thanks so much for uploading a video of all your settings for PLA. Helped me a lot :)
I appreciate you offering this profile! I am noticing some stringing on this...any tips where to fine tune that away? (On the travel moves to be exact)
+Where Nerdy is Cool! Reduce printing temperature
Thanks...I am going to try another thing first...under Advanced and Ooze Control , unchecking "Only retract when crossing open spaces". The print is perfect except the stringing on travel moves. I'll let you know!
With your new heating pad, how do you make it heat slowly so as to not crack the glass, also how is it all going today?
(any version) hyper cube printer is in my opinion better than the creality. prints at fast speeds with great quality. I print on 110-130mm with 0.15-0.3 layer height and I get fantastic results. Though the Creality is still a great printer for its price.
Great Video, was searching a whole day for instructions how to set up S3D and my CR10. Thank you so much mate!!
A last question to make me happy: Is there a Gcode I can put in the End Script so that the CR10 does not drive the bed towards the back when he is finished but to the front instead?
Would "G28 X0 Y0 " do that job?
It's Ironic that XSplit messed you up via variable framerate at the very moment that the recommendation is given to avoid variable start points in Simplify3D! ;)
Hi Anthony, hope you could help me out. My cr10 keeps hitting my binder clips during the quick wipe move at the start of printing. Is there a way to adjust the quick wipe so that it would not hit the clips. My clips are at the same area as yours. THanks.
perhaps you have not mounted your upright gantry in the correct location? further forward or back than it should be?
Can you hook up a scanner to the device? So that you can 3d print objects. Or is there a program to get a 3d rendering of the thing you want to print off the internet?
Great Video~! Is your website down? I cannot download a FFF file from a link provided above.
ive downloaded the FFF file and used it on simplify3d and ive got a few probs. ive got a CR10 Mini so thought i would use the file and just adjust the build volume, but im finding that when i start a print the head goes to the far corner and knocks into my glass clips. also it seems to not leave any room for the masking tape im using and scrapes the nozzle into the tape. what do i neend to change?
Thanks for the discount codes. Every dollar counts
Great stuff. Haver learned alot. Thank you very much.
Glad to help
The starting script, does that only apply to your bed print size or can I use it for the s5 model which has 500 x 500 x 500 print size? thanks
Great video. Sorry but did you include a profile to download for the CR-10? Just got it last week and looking for a good profile to download. Thanks.
in the description To Download my FFF Files for the CR-10:
www.thehotend.org/Files/CR10FFF/
Stupid question; do I just download it and save it in Simplyfi?
Information over load with your verbal. Are the settings available in print?
Just got myself a cr10 S, do you have any advice for what to change if I wanted to print 0.05mm? I'm a 3d artist and I sorta want the best resolution possible.
Can you print flexible filament using a stock Cr-10 or is there a required hotend upgrade?
Thanks!
Why do you shut down the cooling fan in the end script?
You should print a microphone that looks like your HOT-END Logo
Do you have a video using same software and printer with ABS?
Hi! nice video....I just got one problem.....I put all the parameters exactly as you said in the video but when i started my printing I noticed that it was really really really slow. I checked the speed and all was great.....Do you have any suggestion? please let me know...Thanks :)
Jose G. Toyos your settings will be in mm/min not mm/sec. Multiply by 60 😉
Rick B Thanks I think that should be the problem....I will try it today :)
I just cant get the cooling to work for each of the layers. I even imported your profile into simplify3d but it made no difference. Everything else is working fine it seems. I am wondering if it has something to do with a difference in the firmware of my CR-10S? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
+Silencius possibly - we are re-testing on the S now
Is there a reason the filament diameter is set at 1.73 for the PETG profile?
Typo - Nice save
well i have learned some filament is not the right size exactly. so always measure it and correct the value so you dont have any issues.
How do I install the FFF file? when i click on the link I just get to a document full o code... can't copy that code to a text file andsave it as .fff either.. it doesn't work if I do that....? Help
File, Save As.
I'm using same settings on my cr10 and my printer.print pause then print what am I doing wrong
Great video thanks for the tips. Question, Your print speeds seem to be drastically slower than the Default profile, after putting in your settings and placing the thingiverse T-rex skull at its default scale, Simplify tells me it will take 541 Hours!
His profile has mm/s where as the new s3d has mm/min, so times 60 and there you are
Thanks so much for mentioning that. I didn't catch it and was going crazy!
Thank you dude for nice vid! No need to apologize, you are great!
+Daniel Lisica thanks your comments are appreciated
So I used these setting after purchasing S3D and went with my first print. I noticed the print would constantly pause. Such as it would print the first skirt line, then pause for about 10 seconds and then automatically continue. Then continue on and constantly pause at what seems to be every time a new line is started. I feel like this issue is what may also be given me ridiculously long print time estimates. (6 1/2 hours for a benchy!)
Before someone mentions mm/min, I already changed my preferences to mm/s and it is at 60 mm/s as in the video.
Can anyone help me narrow down the issue?
I have the exact same issue using these settings, did you ever figure out the cause?
what tape are you using for bed adhesion
hello do you know why my estimate hour for printing a model says 1465 hours? its too much i dont know what im doing wrong
Would need more info, add you using a s3d profile or your own
I came here specifically for the support material settings. and you skipped them :(
Sorry - supports generally are not so much printer specific and the defaults in S3D work well
Would these settings also work equally well for the 50 x 50 bed size?
+Joel Carter shouldn't make a difference - try and let me know :)
How is the 500mm bed size? could you print something that takes up most of the base, or does it crap out with bigger prints?
Will this profile work for the anet e 10?
Will most of those settings and the starter script work ok with a Tarantula?
+Sean Wright bed size is different so the prime may go off the bed
How can i add your settings in the program, i only see the code but dont see a download for the FFF file.
To Download my FFF Files for the CR-10:
www.thehotend.org/Files/CR10FFF/
In the description.
The Hot End - 3D Printing & Technology Any chance you could import/modify your profile settings for Cura?(latest version 2.6 I believe)
freaking awesome, no more stringing
Can you also share your profile for the little monster?
+David Padilla it's in the files section of little monster owners Facebook group
nice video , good info here :) pity we cant download s3d profile, it only shows code!
+Cardona Gulihermino right click save as
awesome mate , cant believed was so simple.
This is super helpful.. .thanks!
thank you dude very helpful
Thank YOU
How do I change it mm/min too mm/sec
do you have new settings for 2020?
I am still using S3D for all of my printers (except the Zortrax ). The settings I use may be different to what you need due to filament brand and ambient conditions. Best bet is to S3D default for your printer and tweak from there.
@@TheHotEndChannel do you have links
For the Cr-10 S4 do I use your settings but edit the print area??
+Eric Adams why would you edit them? The fff file is for the cr10
The CR10 S4 is the same machine but 16"x16"x16" ?? Your settings are for the CR-10 not the CR-10 S4 so the bed size is different.
Hi !! Great Video :)
I was wondering if you could give me some precisions as of the settings supplement in S3D Ver 4.0.0?
In the FFF Setings on the last tab (Advanced) there is now a Single extrusion settings section with 4 new paremeters. I'm not really sure what those should be set to, and wouldn't want to mess with those without knowing.
Thx in advance for your help, You now have a new subscriber ;)
Thanks A bunch!!!!
will this work for CR-10s ?
PhotoSlash I see it looks like no one had gotten back to you and I was reading the mail. Just set ur printer up when first install Simplify. Most of the feeds and speeds are much the same. Actually the main difference in the two machines ar3 the build area and motherboard. Hope it helps.
Is this the same printer as the Wombot?
They are all based off the Prusa Design and all slightly different. Example: This one has nearly all metal parts and no 3d printed parts = stiffer, stronger - but essentially all based off prusa
Thanks, I am happy with the Wombot, but want to go to 300x300 for Helmets (currently stuck with 250x250). I'm trying to decide between the CR-10 and the FT-5
CR10 is cheaper and a 10 minute build, FT5 is bigger i think, and easier to enclose but much longer build time - its different technology. I love both
the CR10 sale finishes in a couple of days then it goes back up to its normal price im told of 450~ but there is another coupon in description to make it 399 - right now its 369
FT5 is $474 with our coupon - in terms of print quality for PLA/PETG ive noticed not much if any - ABS, the FT5 is easier to enclose and a stationary (only z axis) bed
i cant download the fff pofil :/
+Anthony Klipffel drop us an email - contact us page on www.thehotend.org
Something really unsettling about the way you unblinkingly stare into my soul and know ever lie I've told and how I've disappointed me mum.
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