I Switched 3D Printing Slicers & You Should Too
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video, I share my 6 reasons why I switched to Orca Slicer. Thank you to Squarespace for sponsoring today's video. Head to squarespace.com/thenextlayer to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code thenextlayer.
After years of faithfully using PrusaSlicer for all my 3D printing needs, I made the switch to a little known Orca Slicer.
In this video I'm going to share why, and why you too might want to consider making the jump.
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00:00 Introduction
00:25 What Is Orca Slicer?
01:30 Reason No. 1: Compatibility With More 3D Printers
02:21 Reason No. 2: One App For Everything
03:17 Reason No. 3: User Interface Improvements
04:38 Reason No. 4: Built-In Calibration Tests
05:04 Reason No. 5: More Granular Settings
05:40 Reason No. 6: For Users By Users
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"Calibration tests nobody did before"... Superslicer: "Am I joke to you?"
I was thinking the same thing, lol
Actually I recently switched to Orca since SuperSlicer seems to be stuck in development.
It was just the “nobody did it before” which kinda triggered me, especially when Orca borrowed that thing from SuperSlicer.
Just came here to say the same.
Thank You!
Really wish SS had tree supports. . . How do you like orca over SS? I'm new to slicers but started with SS and it seems great, but I don't know what "great" translates to, since I'm a newbie
I was waiting for this video so much. Finally can watch it 🤩
I have used both SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer, and am now using the beta version of PrusaSlicer 2.6 for all the new features, including organic supports. Both SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer benefit from all the development work done by the Prusa software team. They are also each maintained and updated by a single person. In the case of SuperSlicer, updates have slowed down. Just remember if you invest in converting your profiles and workflow to forks that don't have the stability of a company like Prusa backing them, you are depending on a single person for maintenance, updating, and bug fixes.
That is not how open source software works. A lot of bugs are fixed by random contributors, some features are added by random contributors. All it takes is accepting a pull request by the maintainer so you do not rely on "one person"
@@nikoraasu6929 in the case of superslicer, the original creator (afaik as of aug/2023) is the only person with the ability to merge pull requests. he hasn't added anybody else to the team and insists on doing all the hard work himself.
I wanted to refactor a lot of his github structure to make making contributions to the code much easier for people who want to help but don't want to figure out what the fuck he's doing with 50 nightly branches
sadly though he seems to be too busy to even merge a simple pull request like that, that doesn't require any reading of 1000's of lines of code.
That is the #1 reason I wouldn’t switch from Prusaslicer. Look what happened to SuperSlicer. It got abandoned by its developer for so long it is way behind Prusaslicer now. Who is to say the same won’t happen with OrcaSlicer.
If I'm right, prusa is now using the open source engine Arachne from Cura 😉 it's a little bit like Chromium, now everyone will use the same base engine 😁
@@hman72y Slicing software is a lot more than the engine it uses
I guess you've convinced me to give it a try. I've spent my 4+ years printing all on PrusaSlicer and the largest inconvenience was learning how to set up any calibration test prints. The positive of course being that I was forced to learn more about G-code and how my printer "thinks" but I love the pre-designed ability for those newer to printing who could most use the fine-tuning a full calibration suite can give you.
Yep. I made the switch from Cura 5.4 and Prusa 2.6 to Orca Slicer for my Flsun V400. It works great!
Going to have to check this out. Thanks for the video!
installing orca right away:) my first 3d printer in house, so im super greatful for your informative videoes...
Only reason I use SuperSlicer over PrusaSlicer is because of SuperSlicers built in calibrations (which is where Orca must have gained the inspiration from). Definitely keen to give Orca a try!
They actually imported that code from SuperSlicer
@@Geoff_W they did, I used Superslicer over Prusaslicer because of this.
SuperSlicer don’t get updated much. If you want features added in from Prusa slicer, you need to wait a lot. I was using SS cause of the better klipper support but now PS also support klipper and added travel acceleration, which it did not have before.
Kinda funny he even posted the icon of superslicer in the intro and then proceeded to say no one thought of calibrations before lmao!
Switched to OrcaSlicer a few weeks ago and haven’t looked back. Bambu studio used to crash a lot on Mac but Orca is much more stable. Calibration test, custom nozzle size setting (for aftermarket hotends) and more advanced controls makes it the best slicer for a bambu lab printer, especially the P1P
Thanks! Going to give it a try!
Damn, the octoprint integration and calibration prints sold me. I downloaded and will try it from now on. Thanks!
After years of My Trusty(And Highly modded)CR10… I Finally picked up a Core xy…
Figure it’s Time to give Orca a shot as well… Thanks for taking the time to the Document.
🤙🏻
Well..I’m learning Orca🤙🏻..
Thanks AGAN…😉
If you have an Ender series printer, Cura along with CHEP's extra fast profile is a game changer. It cuts printing time in half with little loss of quality
Just be aware, not all filaments are created equal. The extra fast profile works great with PLA, however you will need to tweek some settings if you are using certain brands of PETG or ABS.
Ive had pretty bad luck running CHEPs settings. I use them as a base... I love cura... but last night nearly placed it in the recycle bin after a couple Orca sliced prints. As far as supports...forget it Orca wins! Trust me I love the SUPER in depth settings for cura, but in most cases feel they are best left along unless you rTRULY know what the do and how their effects have outcomes on other settings. Orca is more of a set it and forget it deal. Quality is amazing too! Ender 3 S1 pro with Klipper (sonic pad) and Bamu P1S...both now fueled by Orca as of now.
My current favourite slicer is SuperSlicer. It has many of the features of Orca slicer, like the calibration prints, while still having a the user interface structured like prusa slicer which I personally prefer over the layout in Cura or Orca slicer.
Fair enough!
@Russell Phelan Thats also the biggest con of SuperSlicer for me, really hoping that the SuperSlicer development team changes their mind and works on it in the near future.
@@savesilenceI also am waiting for tree supports. Love SS otherwise though. So much customizability
@Russell Phelan Yeah I want to switch from prusa to super slicer but not till they get organic supports.
I've heard rumor that the SS dev is not actively working on that fork anymore. If that's the case and I can import my profiles maybe this is an option.
Going to look into it.
I know this video is old but this slicer for me at least is already better then what i was using now that i am more knowledgeable about what my printer needs to do! thank you so much !!!
This is great! I was sold once you said it was basically Bambu Studio but also for other printers. That's probably good enough for me to even buy a Bambu Labs printer too. Been holding off mostly because of their slicer not being great with non-Bambu printers.
I’m so used to simplified3d and palettes slicer( I can’t remember the name) , when I tried Prusa slicer the interface was far from something I was willing to learn how to use so after that I haven’t tried any other slicer. Today I may try the orca slicer since simplify3d I personally feel has failed me with update 5. Not being able to use the slicer on 2 computers at different times with the same license as I did with simplify3d 4 is very disappointing especially when it means I’ll be paying a full retail price of $200 for a slicer I have all ready paid that amount for.
@@DamienDavidO Yeah the interface for Bamboo lab and orca are much nicer then one Prusa slicer did. As they took Slic3r and came up with there own GUI. Ironically I preferred the orginal better, but one done on Bamboo is really nice. (Hope that helps =).)
Whale, I hope you are happy with your switch
I don't know ... I think I prefer the PrusaSlicer layout, maybe because I am used to this since a long time now.
Bambu Studio is based on PrusaSlicer but removed some "unused" features like support for multiple extruders. That means that, currently, OrcaSlicer does not support multiple extruders and that is kind of a show stopper for me since I just built a custom Jubilee3D tool changer printer that I need to configure.
Two thoughts on OrcaSlicer:
1) I tried OrcaSlicer a tiny bit and came away unimpressed. Scenario: I'm at work, looking to slice a few files to print at home because I want to add some custom text and it's frankly easier to do it here than it is in Tinkercad. I configure the slicer for my Ender 3, edit a few of the default settings to account for my mods/upgrades, slap some text on my design, and notice that a brim is enabled by default. Strange, but it seems easy enough to just go with a skirt like normal...and then my print had both a skirt and a brim. Rather than struggle to get the slicer to do one of the more basic things in 3D printing, I just sucked it up and added text in Tinkercad.
2) There is a downside to a slicer fork being maintained by one person, and we're seeing that in real time with SuperSlicer: when the person driving the bus gives up for one reason or another, that's it...the project is dead. If SoftFever gets hit by a bus tomorrow, who takes over? Major development in SuperSlicer seems to have died out last September, with only one beta release since then and little to no updating going on with issues or pull requests since April. I'm now glad I dragged my feet on getting set up in SuperSlicer, and because of that experience I'd rather stick with trusty Cura than go down the "lone developer" route again.
The nr 2 hits the nail on the head,
The original Slic3r also died because... well... nobody cared anymore because Prusa Slicer was so much better
Yes I too have switched to orca, best thing I ever did! Even if you just use the calibration tools, my prints have never looked so good.
Same.
def, going to give it a try
What is the best slicer for support surfaces? I got a big improvement switching from Creality to Cura, but now I cannot improve the supported surface. I've changed as many settings as I can find and I see zero improvement on the brillo pad surface on the bottom of the Support Test Calibration Model
i've never been able to properly print Chainmails on my Sidewinder X1 n 2 using Cura as i found it hard to calibrate my printer there. After moving to Orca, using its inbuild calibration tools and a few prints later i managed to dial in the perfect settings for my printer and now i'm able to print super clean prints including chainmails which i could never do using Cura. Love Orca slicer. ^^
NICE
There are 2 things I miss inn Orca. The first thing is the possibility of having line width as a percentage of the nozzle size, the second is having a way to save PA values as a function of nozzle size. Both of these can be done in Superslicer, and they're the things holding me back from making the jump. There is also some issues regarding having speeds set as a percentage of a base speed variable set in filament properties, but I haven't explored that part yet...
Something you can easily calculate…
@@WouterZtube it's not about that, it's about it being a parameters that changes when you change the nozzle size. This prevents you from needing separate profiles of from having to change manually the value as ou swap nozzles.
Orca not doing this is going to keep me on SS for sure.
Thank you for the video and channel. I have learned a lot and just recently purchased a new printer, neptune 4, would you recommend orca slicer for a beginner?
Yeah might as well start out on it! Then you don’t have to unlearn another slicer
I heard you’re going to have an interview with 3d print general! Can’t wait to see it!!
It's already out :) Check the channel
including instructions on how to download Orca or a link to the webpage would have been time saving and beneficial!
Thanks for the great video - I have an old original MakerBot Replicator 2 does Orca Slicer works with Makerbot Replicator 2?
Thank you man 🙏
I really really like your videos. You really won me over with the auto defense keychain and your care for all the woman in your life and thats just how I feel, so I also been printing some giveaway of those. About Orca Slicer, I dont see enough reasons to give it a try. It would be great if there were some prints comparasion and if the change cant be felt in the final product...I dont see why to change. But love your videos, cheers
As a SuperSlicer user, I'm definitely going to have to give Orca a try. It sounds like it's got the same or similar level of functionality so it'll be interesting to see it implemented differently.
SuperSlicer and PS user, here. I just downloaded OrcaSlicer and gave it a try. So far no regrets!!! I took some time to migrate the (luckily few) profiles but it prints just awesome! No organic supports yet, but I don't like those either (take too much time to print and can fail easily). The default profile (Ultimaker 2) needs some changes, but nothing major. I was surprised how well it printed!
@@GiluOne How do you migrate from SuperSlicer? I REALLY want to use OrcaSlicer but I don't want to try and manually copy all my settings one line at a time if I don't have to.
@@phantomsmithy well, that's pretty much what I did. Left monitor PS, right monitor OS. Then go through each setting...
a feature I am looing for is the ability to que up prints. Making it simple to define the next print. simple enough that I could have someone change the plate and press next.
Ok, you’ve finally tipped me over to trying OrcaSlicer :-) I’ve had it in the back of my mind for a while, but this convinced me to finally download it and give it a try :-)
NOICE
i have been printing for only a few months started with a aquila X2 now have a tronxy X5SA with a lerdge board kit fitted.
was using cura but switched over to prusa as for some reason the lerdge system went to home after a print even if not in end g code.
so switched to supper slicer all was good then i thought i will try orca slicer and i now find it prints better and faster print times.
i use the ratrig profile with a couple of tweeks but cant get it to pause but prusa will for 2 layer prints.
sooner i get the orca slicer to do 2 layer prints the better.
I've tried Orca Slicer a bit and it's been pretty good so far. I still prefer the UI and layout of SuperSlicer (probably just because I'm used to it), but I hope all the new features Prusa/Orca Slicer already have are coming to SuSl soon (I know the dev is working on it)!
Been using orcaslicer since some time now. My printing results were clearly better than with prusa or cura. Great thing I found so useful in orcaslicer is the lightning infill, saves at least 30% on filament. I actually changed to orca because of the changeable direction per layer on overhangs, gave much better results.
i stock on cura most of the time , i tried prusa a view times and always went back to cura,
but i will definetly try orca it looks like some big improvements were made there
So I'm a Cura man through and through but was looking for another slicer other than Prusa (which never works for me) and this one looks Great!!!! Thanks a million......
Glad I could help!
Just a small correction. This is NOT the first slicer that came with calibration scripts/parts in it. If you remember first beta of netfabb slicer and later on nefabb studio slicer it came with calibration objects for acceleration, for speed, for flow rate... they used the set of triangles, squares and arc's and procedures to follow to properly calibrate slicer settings using them :) .. this was almost 15 years ago :D ... they also had some ingenious idea for raft that sits on "blobs" that would allow printing on very uneven bed and very easy release of the raft from the bed (not important today with modern beds but if you remember we used acrylic beds without heaters back then)
Thanks the correction that was before my time
I appreciate the heads up! If my Creality CR-6SE has a profile in Orca, I will definitely be giving it a try!
I Created one but it is not perfect now
and I use kliper
@@lukacsgal1938 I didn't know you could get klipper on the cr-6se? I did read that most screens that 3D printers have won't work with klipper though. Is it the same with the our printer? I don't want to lose screen access as I can't plug anything into the micro usb port on the front because it got a little toasty and fried a Pi 4 about a year ago. I haven't had the brain power to take it apart and replace the usb port on the control board as of yet. Some day!
@@Viking8888 the community is already developing the clipper support for the display but you can't start printing with it
micro sd slot didnt work whit clipper
just airDrop (push up files for yorur printer )
Mainsail os works fine on my phone and i have it always on so it's not a problem for me that the display doesn't work
I've been enjoying Prusa Slicer for a couple of years, but Orca Slicer looks interesting and I will give it a try. Simplify3D, Cura, Prusa Slicer... all seemed to have trouble with simple printer configurations and filament configurations. I'd make a small temporary change to a print variable and would be surprised that it was saved in a profile with a non-intuitive name. It just seems more confusing than it should be, although slicers are getting better.
Since starting in 3D printing, beginning in 2023, I have been using and learning Cura, because it seemed a bit easier than Prusa, for a newbie. I have printed many fails learning a slicer and it feels like it's counterproductive to learn one slicer then go to another. Is Orca Slicer similar? Or would I be starting a new "print fail" box.
Thanks for the video.
Bambu studio also allows you to turn off the flow calibration to save space on the build plate. Were you saying you can’t?
I decided to test Orca Slicer out a couple of months ago, and haven't used my previous main slicer since. It's a great slicer!
I found several links for ORCA Slicer, which one is the best one to use (Download from)?
Awesome video! nailed it!
Thanks!
I am definitely interested in OrcaSlicer, but does it support importing existing PrusaSlicer printer profiles?
Hey I’m having trouble setting up 0.6 no sale in Cura prints are terrible on my 2 kobra2 printers are you still using orca ? I might give this a try
so except for the cleaner looking UI and web interface integration, what makes this worth the hassle of switching over from superslicer?
Ill try it.
I only recently switched to Orca Slicer. But I really like it. 👍 I used to use the CURA slicer because I have a modified Ender S1 Pro with Klipper. But since I have ordered and am waiting for delivery of the new BambuLab P1S with AMS. I wanted to try what it would be like to work with their slicer (or its equivalent).
And I have to say, working with this slicer is very pleasant. It allows all the important settings, but the user doesn't have to be a rocket scientist to use it. 🤣 Most importantly, after calibration, my prints are better quality and also faster than on a similarly tuned profile that I used in the CURA slicer.
Of course, the unification of slicer and printer control is very nice. But I consider it "something extra". I didn't mind operating the printer in a web browser and having the slicer next to it in a window. On the contrary, sometimes I happen to forget and look for the slicer window. While I'm already in it, but on the Klipper control tab. 🙄
And of course, I read somewhere that the whole project rests on the shoulders of one man. I'm a little worried about that. It wouldn't be the first time such a strategy has failed. On the other hand, I learned the controls in less than an hour, and the calibration for all the materials I use took about a day. So I'm willing to risk it and I'll hope nothing bad happens.
I'm not saying Orca or Cura is better. But my experience made me change my primary slicer. And I would encourage everyone to at least try it and make up their own mind. 😎
Glad to hear it
how does it handle detail? when i slice with cura and bambu i can't get all the details i have in my model, but in the creality print it shows all the details in the model, it's just not compatible with with the carbon.
how did you copy your settings from prusaslicer to orcaslicer?
Yes !
Welcome to Orca
Hopefully you are using 1.6.3 as it's out of beta
Precise Walls works well with Arachne and will speed things up a bit
Also I suggest the combine infill option, reduce infill/wall overlap from 15% to -5% and don't use grid infill
My go-to infill is Gyroid for 90% of my prints
I need to see guides how to use orca, my prints look awfully long compared to prusaslicer, im new to 3d printing so im not that used to all the settings from different slicers, ty for this advices will try some of these out
@leo Orca Slicer is a fork (version)of Bambu Slicer and Bambu Slicer is a fork of Prusa Slicer
Prusa Slicer is a fork of Super Slicer as well
So Orca Slicer should look very familiar to Prusa Slicer if that's what you're used to using or are learning on
When using Orca stay away from Grid infill as it seems to go down a bit too heavy, Gyroid is by far the safest and it looks neat
There are some settings in the filament as well that can affect your print speeds such as cooling and max volumetric flow but I wouldn't play with those settings until you are more familiar with what each setting does and how it affects speed & quality
Start with the basics and try your layer hights at 0.24mm to start, you'll be surprised that there isn't much of a quality difference between 0.2mm and 0.24mm but the later will print much faster and achieve better layer adhesion
If you are looking for a decent tutorial the 3D Print General has some great starter tips with Bambu Studio which once again is almost identical to Orca Slicer
Have fun learning and if you start getting frustrated print out a simple stl that you know will work so you feel a bit better rather than upset
Personally I was at one point using Prusa, Cura, and Softfever but now I run all 3 of my printers on Orca Slicer (which was once Softfever)
@@johnnyrocko7105 alright man, thanks, I will take a look at his guide, I need to figure out what is taking so much support time, a project im tryin to make takes 9 hours of support time kinda on prusaslicer, on orca takes like 20h to a day, I will watch the 3d print guy guide and see what I can change, thanks.
@leo try Hybrid Tree supports with these settings
3 interface layers top and bottom
0.2mm top and bottom distance
0.35mm xy distance
No brim, no skirt, no raft(0 raft layers)
Also run your support speed at your highest travel speed (for example on a Bambu Lab X1C support travel speed should be 350-500mm/s )
Also if possible either support on build plate only or better yet paint on your own supports (I mostly paint on my own supports)
For paint on supports to work in the support tab be sure to select manual supports. If you leave the supports as hybrid, normal or tree with automatic beside it the support generator will disregard your painted supports.
You must select the supports with manual, left click the mouse to paint supports, shift and left click to go over and erase, right click for support blockers
I highly advise getting used to painting on your own supports to save time and to make the removal easier
How do I install? Can you make a video please :3
Does the orca support flashforge printer? Specifically the 6k
Okay, the one app for everything is fantastic. I'm gonna switch from Prusa and try Orca out. Being able to view my Mainsail screen from the slicer, has me sold. Plus, the settings do seem kinda randomly sprinkled in everywhere.
I tried it for a month and went back to Cura, the temperature settings drove me mad, I am so used to the Cura layout and even though there are better slicers available Cura is like an old pair of slippers to me! now and again I use Prusa slicer though for the odd part.
Is any of these slicers working in cloud within the browser? Would be much easier to integrate and update within schoolar environment with restricted install permission
I use Cura because it's easy to connect with many Octoprint instances. In Prusa Slicer I didn't find a way to do it. How do you connect many Octoprint instances to that slicer?
I'll take a look at Orca for my large volume Raptor
I have a voxelab Aquila and I have Alex marlin fireware update and I can’t get any other slicers to work
Looking for Orca slicer information
Okay but how do I turn off acceleration in Orca? I don't want it interfering with Klipper's input shaping.
How in Orca save to disk or export filament profile ?
How exactly do you install it.
Just finished tuning my Ender 3 V2 to use Polymaker PETG using Orca Slicer. Dramatically easier and better quality than what I could get from Cura. The calibration process is easy to follow and save for each filament type you use. The stock settings for this machine in Orca weren't too bad either
Just about to try PETG for the first time with my Ender 3 V2, and have only previously used Cura for slicing. What is it in Orca Slicer that makes it easier/better for the job?
@@gbspikyfish calibration prints and the information about how to interpret them. The nice thing is that you save the settings to the material profile, not the slicer profile. This makes more sense if you use different filament materials
whats the reason for not using cura? I've never used another slicer so i have no idea what the difference would be.
I'm definitely considering using Orca when my SV07 (which will be my first printer!) arrives. The decision would be even easier if someone (HINT HINT) made available a good SV07 profile for Orca! :D
Orca slicer has problems with loading. I forget the error but it fails to run
Where is the link for the software???
I'm waiting for my K1 to arrive, I don't know how it's slicer functions but I certainly like to try orca slicer.
I hope to get around to opening mine tomorrow it's been sitting in a box for a week
Just tried Orca now, the interface seems nice, but I didn't find how to custom your printer config (like bed size and everything under the "Printer settings" tab in superslicer/prusaslicer). As my 3D printer is a DIY made from scratch, it is very important to me. plus, not being able to import a config bundle made with prusaslicer it a big downside.
Sovol SV06 included in OrcaSlicer?
I like your videos. But I was waiting for this from you. I woukd have liked to see your pros and cons and fun facts. We respect your opinion BTW. I don't think you alway realise way we would love to heat from you. So maybe go deepeae to small stuuf. Like what supports, is dmit faster, and what features.
Thanks for the vid. Also, can't wait for the bass as man bun!
I’ll definitely try it whit my x1c ❤
Enjoy!
works way better for me, especially filament calibration, then switch off LIDAR flow/PA. I haven't seen a seam calibration tool yet though.
I am a newbie Printer guys, first question I have is when using a slicer, are your creations private to your computer or does it post to a public site once edited via orca?
Great information here. At least one of the things you say Orca can do and Bambu cannot is not correct. You can easily turn off filament calibration when sending the file to print. I wish either of these companies would give me a file I could look at as plain text. Just like Cura and PrusaSlicer do. I like the ability to see print time, filament usage, etc. without having to reslice the 3mf..
Does orca slicer support single perimeter tops??
Great video, yes use orca slicer great profile for the sv06, but my tree supports are solid, can’t see in setting how to change this
Support tab. "Type" dropdown - set that to tree(auto) or if you just want supports where you paint them tree(manual)
@@haddonist yeah I do that and they are solid infill
I'm not saying I'll switch right now, but I'll give it a try and see if I like it.
so if you compare it to Bambu Slicer, most features are for 3rd party printers and for a Bambu you mostly get the calibration and a bit more filament settings
The main reason I always preferred PrusaSlicer is that it was not like Cura. I always thought the Cura interface made less sense to me. I will still give Orca a try though, as I want to be open to new options.
Is it possible to disable the flow calibration if printing via SD card (export g-code file) Anyone??
I love Orca slicer, I just need them to add support for Marlin 2 and then I can use it with my printer 😭
If you ever get tired of 3d printing, you could work in Sales, you got me wanting Orca... other that it being named after my favorite animal
I would love to use Orca for my Anycubic Vyper running Klipper. Any help will greatly appreciate it
Set up a custom profile. Easy as pie.
@@thenextlayer I use it for my Bambu printers but need some help getting it to run my Anycubic Vypers
nice video. Tried Orca. Nice slicer. Connected to my MK3s through a Repetier PI just fine. Could not figure out how to setup my Zonestar P802QR2 with 2 nozzles. No Marlin 2.0 support. Then it crashed.
It would be great if there were more tutorial vids on this new slicer.
It's literally bambu studio.
I have orca splicer and I downloaded a 3mf file to import the the splicer and it says it’s not compatible. It does still load but I am also not able to print. Any ideas what I am doing wrong? Also I am new to the whole 3d printing
3MF files are different from different slicers, you have to download or export a generic 3MF i'm afraid, or import into the same software if you want more than geometry
The problem of moving to a tool maintained by a person, or sometimes even a community. Is that it's highly likely likely it will eventually loose momentum, updates far apart and with less quality, and eventually happen what I ended up experiencing in SuperSlicer. Even beding incredibly popular, issue list doesn't stop growing and it got too buggy and I decided move back to Prusa, even though I would lose lots of features I loved. That caused me to start everything from scratch again. It is a lot of work and fine tuning, so I'd be careful before jumping in too fast to something we don't know how long it will be maintained for. People have life, study, get married, have children, etc.
I find it may be a much easier problem to solve is to jail break bambu Slicer. At its heart it shares the same mechanics, which are a collection of printer profiles. Working on that instead of a full fork, may be a lot easier to carry forward on the long run
I just tried it. The new Ender 3 V3 SE printer is not in there. I hope it won't take too long to get it.
there is no link in the description to orca slicer? all I see is a link to give softfever money
When I started 3D printing I had Ideamaker.I really liked it. then I got S3D and it's my go-to slicer. I tried Prusa and Cura but actually didn't like eithet. Never could figure it out. Don't know anything about Bambu slicer or their printers.
Eh, tried to install Orca on my Windows PC but Orca doesn't support Kingroon printers so it got stuck at the point where you're suppose to choose a printer. It also doesn't support my other printer, an Anycubic Predator. It wouldn't let me back out or stop the install. Only way out was to either reboot my computer or go into Task Manager (which I did) and force a shut down of the software. I don't like the UI of Prusa Slicer so I'll stick with Cura for now.
I want to get a fast (kinda) printer. What would be better? The P1P or the Ankermake m5?
Haven’t tried the anker yet. So… so far I can’t say. But either way please use my links :)
@@thenextlayer i will use your links but thank you for the respons
Can anybody please explain which "lid" "Height to lid" under "Extruder Clearance" refers to?
I downloaded orca but wasn't able to find my Voron v2.4 which has a 0.6 nozzle, the list only had a 0.4 nozzle and I'm not sure how to change that.
You have to create your own settings for this at the moment. Change the .4 widths to .6 etc
@@HighVoltageKits I think I will wait for further support....
I tried Orca yet it comes up taking way longer than Prusa. I did a simple helmet and Prusa said 1 day 15 hours and Orca says 3 days.