Making the seat hump (Pt 1) - Suzuki Bandit Cafe Racer - ASBO Project
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มี.ค. 2023
- Time to get busy with the English Wheel and start making the seat hump out of steel. This could be interesting..... Right then!
SOMEBODY IS GOING TO WIN ASBO - That's right, somebody who supports the QuickBikes channel and the bikes I'm building is going to be the proud owner of a completely custom built Suzuki Bandit Cafe Racer once it's finished. I'm giving away ASBO to celebrate hitting the 10,000 subs mark to somebody who supports the channel.
To stand a chance of winning the bike once its finished, simply donate £10 to the channel using the PayPal link - www.paypal.com/paypalme/Quick...
Where it says "What's this payment for?", enter "Supporting the channel". That way I know what the payment is for and I can make sure your name goes in my hat.
You can donate as much as you like and each £10 donation to the channel will get you another chance to win the bike as you're supporting us that much more.
If the winner is not in the UK, I can crate it up etc, but the shipping will be their responsibility. If you're in the UK, we'll be able to arrange something.
Please, please, please like and share this video as it will be setting the budget to finish the bike and hopefully raise some additional funds so I can include some spanky bits in the build. The bigger the budget, the better the bike you might end up with.
THIS IS NOT A RAFFLE...
You won't get a ticket or a sticker in the post, but I'll publish a list of names regularly, so you know you you've been entered. Somebody who has chipped in will be randomly picked once the bike is finished and as a thank you for supporting us will be the proud new owner of ASBO.
The very BEST of luck to you if you chose to join in and help support the channel 😁👍
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I wonder if this could be done with knuckle dusters and half a pool cue.
Hehehe... I'm sure Sealey do a tool for it if not 😂🤣😅
You'll need a small lenght of chain to make it all work
Wow! the shop looks so tidy and clean and seat hump looks good can't wait to win it😀👍
Hehehe.... There's a few dustbins bags of crap gone and a ton of rusty metal 😂🤣
Awesome seeing the bike take shape and I think you're doing well on the English wheel 😎
Thank you matey. I think it's going to be a cracker once it's done 👍
You're well on the way and was good to watch the Hump take shape so far. Look forward to seeing how you tackle the next stage 🤔
Thanks for watching matey 😁👍
I appreciate you constantly smacking the mic with the work piece for 2 videos in a row 😆
Hehehe... I did it just for you matey 😅🤣😂
Sorry....
Keep up the good work mate every days a school day 👍
Ain't it just 😂🤣😅
Thank you matey 👍
Quickie, if it was easy, everyone would be doing it. Keep the faith, it'll be grand once done. The finish looks fantastic and the curves flow nicely with the silhouette of the bike so it's a thumbs up from me. I always look forward to these vids. Good shout about not presenting a painted bike to the MSVA guy. You know that would be tempting fate. 🏍
Thanks for that matey. I think I'm going after the right shape, it's just tricky to do 😂🤣
I think it makes sense for the MSVA test and don't think there's anything that says it has to be finished completely 👍
That looks awesome mate. Watching you chip away at it patiently, checking and rechecking is worlds apart from 'He Who Shall Not Be Named' ragging at it trying to do the whole thing in eight hours... 🧐🤣
Good plan regarding paint and the MVSA, get it ready to pass, doesn't need to be pretty.
Thank you matey, I think I'm onto something here, it's just VERY awkward 🤣😅😂
Ok Quicky,that's a lot of work for the tailpiece,I know it's a learning experience but for speed I would have bought a secondhand fuel tank with the similar shape,Enfield bullet etc& chopped that to fit,ready formed also..but keep on Rolling to pardon the punn...👍😂Ozzy
It is a lot of work, your right, but if I'm ever going to make my own fuel tank, I need all the practice I can get 😁👍
great to watch the progress and best of all even the mistakes are your own but heck you keep overcoming any issues as my dad used to say it does not matter you tried and made something
It's all part of the learning process I guess. I haven't cocked it up, it just a bit of an ambitious thing to do out of one piece of steel 😂🤣
I'm still looking into a better way of doing it at the moment 😁👍
Wray is the man! Definately the number one source, if You want to learn to use an english wheel.
I think if You roll over the edge where You want it to be more "flatterer", the bulge will go away.
Aw right... I've got a bead roller... If I can tip the edge over I may even be able to use the shrinker stretcher on it as well.... Thank you for that matey, you've got me thinking again now 😁👍
Nice 1 mate. A lot of hard work or could give it to dell he could do you one in a day 😂❤🛠🔧🏍
I'd rather cock it up myself matey, but so far so good 👍😁
First I must say that I really enjoy all your videos and any comments I make are meant to be helpful rather than critical.
The problem to me seems to be that the front curve is different to the rear curve, maybe the answer is to adjust the rear profile to be more compatible with the front profile such that it can be made in one piece. I do not think that a welded joint on thin sheet metal will go well in the English wheel. Also the weld on such thin sheet will tend to distort the sheet and lead to a rippled finish on the outside of the hump.
Possibly fixing 2 x profiled plates that more closely approximate to the curvature at front of the seat hump to the rear seat frame would provide a better solution. If these two profile plates were fitted with inch long pointed projections facing forward welded to the inside of these additional profile plates, they could also double as a mounting/locating flange for the seat hump.
The seat hump part could have lugs welded to the inside of the seat hump with holes that fit over the flange locators. The holes in the lugs welded to the inside of the hump could be fitted with rubber grommets to ensure a snug non vibrating fit.
Two studs welded to the inside lower edges of the hump could locate to 2 small brackets on the rear frame and secured by nuts accessible from the front of the battery compartment behind the seat upholstery.
In my, admittedly limited, experience of building specials it is about having a flexible approach, recognising when something you have done/made already is problematic and developing a work around that does not mean lots of additional work either to replace the original less than optimal design or generating more additional work to accommodate the sub optimal design.
Thanks for watching matey and for taking the time in to make a suggestion. By no means do I have all the answers and some of this is very much trial and error. There will be a return lip on the front of the hump however I make it to give some extra strength, it's how I curve the sides that's awkward with the biggest problem going from a tight curve to a dead straight bit. At the minute, I'm thinking of bending a 90 lip with the bead roller and using my shrinker / stretcher to level it all out. It seems like a logical first step, but ultimately I can always bin it and start again using a different approach if needs be. It's only steel sheet and I don't mind doing the work. If anything I quite enjoy it 😁👍
Thanks for chipping in matey, it's much appreciated 😁
@@QuickBikes I think your issue is with differential profiles of the front and rear portions of the seat hump. The transition between an arc created with a set of compasses and a tighter curve with straight sides cannot be easily achieved with an English wheel, which is designed to develop shapes in metal that are curved. A tighter curved seat frame and straight side trailing edge cannot be accommodated when the leading edge has a uniform curve, particularly when the distance between the front and the back is less than 200 mm.
You may prove me wrong but I am absolutely convinced that splitting it into three pieces will cause the weld to be aesthetically unacceptable/ If you do manage to weld it without distortion ( and I am not doubting your welding ability one jot) then you will not be able to roll the weld joint sufficiently so that it is imperceptible. ( for the same reason you cannot roll the sides to the correct profile - the throat of Sherman is too small).
Whatever you decide it's your build and I shall enjoy the journey.
Thanks
👍
😁
I took the easy route with my Ducati Cafe Racer and went with fibreglass.
I already had a seat unit but it was too wide so cut a strip out of the middle and fibreglass'd it back together, then had to shape it to fit the standard tank.
I could do a fibreglass one and it's still an option, but really wanted metal if possible as I think it just raises the quality a bit more if done properly... 🤔😁👍
I thought all drawings had to be done freehand and with a bigass thick marker 😁
Hehehe... I'm still practicing that matey. I can't quite get my circles egg shaped yet 😂🤣😅
"A deep throat stretcher" 🤣🤣🤣👍
Every workshop should have one in my book 🤭
Yes to 45 degree solutions! Wray (yes with a W) has run many student classes, so must know what people do wrong most readily. Notice how he's not afraid to force bends manually and that it takes even him a long time to do good work with 50 years experience! This, l think looks like the most difficult to execute/artistic (in the classical sence) part of metalwork, because the results of the input are not immediately manifested and the metals reaction is not easily predicted. It's looking good as others have said and you have bit off alot to chew! Perhaps you will have to wheel along the short width now to manipulate the metal on the sides? I wonder if you're feeling confident😁 you could chop it in half along the spine to make doing the sides easier?
It's all the learning experience matey and I find this sort of thing really interesting. It doesn't always do what I want it to, but at some point I'm going to save up for the course in Liskeard and get shown how to do it properly. 😁👍
Nice work quickie, don’t know if it’s any good to you but I’ve got a stubby Lextek end can, any good for asbo?
Thank you matey. I've got the stubby Wish can that I can use if need be and may try shoving a padded db killer in it as well. As long as we get down to 99db, I'm happy 😁
You could make it in paper mache.... 😁
Have you considered looking for existing pillion covers and modifying to suit?
I did, but given the frame is a total one off, I figured there wasn't much point. I'm sure I'll get it done right in the end 😁👍
you have had the hump for 22 hours now ! I gave my rear mudguard a light skim of filler and a few tweaks from the hand ,,,those wheels are a skill me thinks ! .. btw the 8th is tomorrow hehehehehe! good luck ! btw IF, the wheel stretches, and u want a flat bit , would heat shrinking in that area work? just a thought
I'm not sure about heating it up matey.... I was chatting with Craig and heat could buckle it, but I have a plan... Which might work... Maybe.... 😂🤣
Get yourself a flower pot toffee the size you want and half it an use that,then you could fibreglass glass it,saves on weight aswell. Just a thought quicky. 👍
Thank you matey. I was tempted to do a fibreglass seat unit, but doing it in metal just feels a bit more quality in my head... If I mess it up completely, I'll just make another one, possibly out of aluminium... Dunno, have to see how we go I think for now 😁👍
Day off, so iam first thing 🤣🤣
Good man, thank you Eddie 😁👍
The exhaust would it be worth putting a in line akrapovic catalytic converter in there just a small tube type thingy tried to put a link in last week but wouldn't let me plus there not cheap 🤣 but may be a option 😁👍
Dunno matey, but I'll have a look as I'm not entirely sure what you mean. Thanks for the suggestion though 😁👍
Clamp the can on tight but put the bracket on the link pipe maybe
Might work.... It just depends how heavy the can is really.... 👍
@Quick Bikes true. I've seen it done though a few times.
Ray Schelin the name i think
I think so.. 😁👍
Couldn’t you just butcher the old one with a QVC knife, glue all the bits together on top and sprinkle on some neoprene? Shouldn’t take longer than 8 hours.
Hehehe... 🤣😂
Hey Quicky
Do you follow Ralfy Customs on here?
I was watching and he used a pipe anvil and thought it would work brilliantly for the seat hump.
th-cam.com/video/1xgRL4xD_WQ/w-d-xo.html at 8mins 14
Yes matey, I watch Ralphy. The pipe anvil is dead for 2D bends, but no good for 3D curves unfortunately... I can see where you were going with that idea though dude 😁👍
I hope the MSVA man doesn't follow the channel
Bugger.... I never thought of that 🤣😂😅
It doesn’t matter what they know. They can only test what’s in front of them. Can you not fix a bottle of Scotch to the tank with a sticker on it saying “take me”? It’s sure to get through the test then.
🤣😂😅 so bribery and corruption won't work then hehehe...