Great. I have just replaced a teared chain and a cassette because of having issue with chain slipping. I’ve been cleaning and lubing my chain regularly and now it turned out degreasers should not be used and over oil is a problem as well. Summing up: thank you for sharing this, it definitely gives a lot of space for considerations and improvements.
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @MegaElias. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. I'm so glad you got benefit from the video and thanks for replying. I put a video up last week about cleaning and lubing your chain at the same time. This what I do to my bikes so they get mucked up by too much oil...
I gotta say I lately have been struggling to find out what is causing this gear/chain slipping under heavy load and I finally figured it out all thanks to you :-). You're the real hero and a man that knows how to explain stuff easily even including tips and steps how to fix problems step by step
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @davidgames_cz6618. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. There are also a couple of polls you can get involved in to determine my future videos. Thanks for taking the time to comment and compliment my work. It makes all the difference to my motivation for making more content. Glad this one worked out for you...
After a number of videos with no answers, you’ve helped me track down my problem on the smallest 3 jumpy gears. Under load, they will not adjust after replacing the chain. Time for a rear cassette. Thanks !
I recently changed a fairly new but prematurely worn-out chain (SRAM) on a cassette that was nearing the end of its life - nearly 7 years old. The new chain started jumping under load like a Mexican jumping bean! New cassette! The original chain (KMC) lasted over 6 years. Those measuring tools are great, have been using one for about 5 years.
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @psychoal1967. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. I fell foul to the new chain on a worn middle chain ring way back when. It can be pretty sketchy when the new chain starts jumping around, especially when you're expecting it to be much smoother. My tip for you is to change back to a KMC chain before the SRAM one is too worn out. In my experience, KMC make much better, more durable chains than the main stream component manufacturers.
Thanks for sharing. I learned a lot about chain wear and the tool that I need to check it. I stopped using chain oil about 2 years ago and went to hot waxing. So far it's been great. I still have the original chain and all the original cogs and chainring. I will get a chain checker and monitor the condition of the components as I go along. The best thing I like about the wax is that dirt doesn't seem to stick to it and it penetrates into the rollers.
My aha moment was when I realised that the front chain rings receive consistently different wear depending on where in relation to the cranks they are around their circumference. So bloody obvious, yet I've never thought of it!
@@bicycleguru so if the chainring has double the teeth of the gear, or some other multiple, you will get teeth on gears that wear faster, unless you occasionally manually move the chain around the chainring.
Fantastic video. I have been mountain biking 30 years and I still learned something. I use my chain checker regularly but not in the largest sprocket on the cassette. It does put the chain under more tension and gives a more accurate reading just as you say. Thank you very much, that is how I will check the chain from now on.
A refreshing and simple to understand video! Good to hear your advice which was well delivered. As you said about cleaning the chain, don't use degreasers. I think it's a sneaky marketing ploy by bike product manufacturers for them to be promoted by various videos that we don't actually need. They are not cheap products! I will look out for more of your videos!
Thanks for your comments... I really appreciate the feedback and knowing you get what I am saying. I didn't think about the marketing ploy until you brought it up. What I will say is these companies have such a strangle hold on the way everyone cleans their bikes. So much so, the consumer, bike shops and channels with 'fluffy' videos are already brain washed about the use of degreasers. I can't change the world, but hope I can guide my followers to the right practices. In this instance saving time, money and our bikes. I have a video coming in about a month covering complete drive train cleaning the way I do it. Just waiting on a customer who is generously helping me by riding her worn out drivetrain around covered in oil to really gack it up before I swap it out. There are more on other topics to come in the meantime...
Nice job here from BB, Ah Ha factors: 1) leading edge of cogs curved to (cassette/chainrings) sharp point, 2) Don't over oil the chain! and keep it clean of muck. Sometimes I get a skip of the chain "when standing on the pedals" during a power sprint, up a short incline. Also, I'll get the chain checker, Thanks from Fullerton, California
Fantastic video!!! My chain was not sitting in the teeth of the chainring, the chain tool said it was fine but pulling the chain away from the cog showed me there was a major issue. New chain sits perfectly, thank you 🙏.
No bullshit, straight to the point. Today just had a serious crash (40 kph+, flat, sprint to pass over a bus in heavy traffic...) due to a slipped cog under load causing chain drop at front, maybe chain coming off the jokey wheel at the same time too -- can't really remember, don't even know how this was happened. Ironically I basically know all of these stuff, and I track the mileage of every component. I'm well aware of all the "issues". I have those chain checkers and I know my chain is near that point but not yet at 0.75. However during most of the times it rides just fine. When standing start from a traffic light or something the slip happens a lot but I just dialed down a bit and then everything is OK. The front chain drop happens few times but I managed to save those situations with my skills and maybe some luck... So I think no big deal. However when this luck runs out or you are in a very very narrow scenario where all of those things lined up, the tragedy happens... Like today if I were not try to accelerate to the car speed to not block the traffic, or not in that super aggressive body over front of the bike position, or I'm not in the early morning with little sleep and a fast reaction time as usual, in 90% chance I I think I'll just save it like many many times before, even in the situations that were much much worse. The take away is always be cautious and prepare for the worst, especially when you are capable of doing some serious watts or have the ability to ride really aggressive -- even if you don't even plan to do so. These mechanics "semi-problem" is really those grey area, it's better to do the work preventatively. Hope anyone sees this don't make the mistake I made.
Really enjoyed the video was informative. Simple and presented in a logical manner. I’m always searching u tube on bicycle maintenance and even though I’m not a true bike mechanic I do enjoy the satisfaction of maintaining & fixing things. Keep up the work sir🚴🏼
Glad I could help and you enjoyed the video... 👍 So sorry I haven't responded sooner @richardortiz197. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. There is also a couple of polls I have put up you can vote on for what I produce next...
Happened with me yesterday,while I was riding . Come back home wasn't a option.i manage to get in my destination as a single speed, avoiding any hills lol. Thank you for the video
My only experience on my bikes was 25 years ago when I put a new chain and cassette on my mountain bike. I had more gears than you, but with a worn middle ring they were only easy or hard. Best avoided either way...
I have an old Giant chromoly frame with a mishmash of components. It will skip out of first to second under extreme load. I dont have all my bike tools at that location so I just live with it. Pretty sure it is just a bit of frame flex, as the wire is routed under the bottom bracket. It only happens at a 100 yard long extremely steep hill, which starts at the bottom of a river gorge, and of course starts with a turn just by the bridge. The way to get across, is to put the gear in first riding down the gorge, and let the brakes up when nearing the bottom for max speed, but not so much speed that you fall in the river. Then, spin as fast as possible with as light a touch on the pedals as possible, to get to the top, and after that take it easy for a minute to bring the pulse down from hummingbird to human levels. Any deviation from this method will mean walking that hill, or worse, go for a swim.
A really interesting and informative video. I learnt a lot. Particularly about cleaning the chain. A dumb question - you talked about chainring wear - can this cause slippage on the cassette - I assume not and you were just checking the chainrings as part of the whole process. I have just fitted a new chain and cassette on my hybrid as the chain was hopping from one cog up to the next one on the cassette but it's still doing it. Any ideas what might be causing it if it's not cassette or chain? 👍
Cheers mate. This is my biggest headache in life, the skipping chain. So stretched chain, typically? That cassette tool was my moment of realization, I'm going to make one right now. Thanks bloke.
Good choice of words for understanding clearly.. I'll be using your videos before doing some work. I put together a diy ebike 2000w hub motor with 60v 25AH battery. Used 28 pound Specialized Dual Suspension 26" MTB.. Lightweight/Fast without overworking motor/battery... I like a lot. (Plenty of brake torque arms I knew needed since a kid riding BMX). But the new freewheel provided has too many cogs won't fit in.. finally got a 5 cog that fits. Check this out if this has happened to you. See I had to completely remove the chain, derailer and freewheel to ride my ebike. I removed them all and only needed to remove the rear wheel of course And only removing the front derailer screw to slip the old chain out it's been hanging on the wall. Now how do I put the chain back on without breaking the chain apart..I got it off in 1 piece. It's a puzzle and doesn't make sense now. Keep this in mind and figure it out and make a video..how to remove a chain and derailleur without breaking it apart. It will start with remove rear wheel and front derailleur screw. I may just take apart the nuts and bolts from the back of the frame instead of buying a new chain. Good day.
If you got the chain and derailleur off without breaking the chain, it must go back on with the reverse process. If I made a video for that, it would start with what I think is the best chain breaker and why. I did a video on Christmas Tools to gift end of 2022. That information is there. Hope this helps...
So I broke my chain on the train. Got a new one installed and now the smallest gear pops… this entire cassette is less than 6 months old. Am I screwed? Do I need a new cassette?
Shimano are the ONLY manufacturer I’ve had that I’ve had broken teeth on the chainrings. Apart from that I’ve used Campag always and never had that problem. Campag wears IN Shimano wears OUT.
All good points, thanks. If none of those sort out the problem it could be the freehub. I've had that a couple of times, once when I'd squirted WD40 into it which I believe leaves a sticky residue behind stopping the pawls engaging. I could of stripped it down and cleaned it but as it was very old I simply replaced it.
Thanks for saying so 👍 There are many things that make the gears slip that I will cover in future videos. What you are talking about is a lack of engagement from the pawls (as you say) which may well be the WD40 getting sticky once the solvent dries out. The same thing happens to grease when it goes that red/brown colour and is more like glue than lubricant. I had a problem with my Dura Ace freehub body and used a very good video from @RJTheBikeGuy to strip it down and service if you ever fancy taking the job on in the future. So sorry I haven't responded sooner. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested.
If say I change a chain and a freewheel is it ok to leave old triple chainrings,which supposedly don't wear that fast? What about changing worn rear derailleur pulleys,teeth look sharp
If the rings aren't worn I'd leave them alone. Like many things in life, the older stuff was made with more gumption. I would definitely change the jockey wheels if they are worn out. That, in itself can cause chain skipping and definitely won't help the shifting...
Now retired I'm doing a bit more mountain bike riding and have myself a Giant dirt 2 ebike. Funny most of my friends had a good laugh at my expence but now most of them own them too. Anyway just ordered a Pedro bike chain checker and just this morning received some GT85 spray very hard to find in Australia. Found one of my old suppliers I used to use at work sell them. As an Electrician I've found it Best to talk to or listen to the people who use the product and work on the equipment to get the REAL evaluation and not advertised crap. New friend in Australia Graeme
I don't really see what the problem is Graeme, especially if it is keeping you on the bike and you enjoy it. And if it's okay for pro bike riders to have motors in their bikes, it's fine for us mere mortals, Thanks for taking the time to reply...
I got new rd, new cassette, new chain, new shifters and still the slipping still occur when hard pedaling. I placed a GoPro to record slow motion what's happening in the cassette, it turns out that if I'm on the smallest cogs, my chain will half shift to the next cogs but will immediately go back to the smallest cogs producing the slipping feeling and sounds. Is this just a tuning issue or other things still needs to be replaced?
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @kevinhodgson3935. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. You are very welcome and thanks heaps for taking the time to comment. Hope your purchase saves you loads of money in the future...
I've just started riding again after years of riding my motorcycle, notice my chain jumps as I'm pedalling under force like climbing a hill Jacksonville FL always going over a bridge and checking for cog or chain wear. Thank you
Hi there, can you advise? I’ve just replaced my cassette, chain and rear derailleur. All Shimano 11 speed 105. But mainly on the large chain ring and under pressure/incline, the chain jumps quite badly. I’ve been told the teeth maybe warn on the large ring.
My bike's 5 months old, has done about 600km and the chain slips under normal, casual pedaling every once in a while. I would have thought a new bike would be fine. It's not a cheap bike. Not expensive either. I rode an old junk bike I found on the side of the road for 3 years. Chain never slipped once. I replace it with this new bike and the chain slips in 5 months. EDIT: Issue seems for me that several chain links had gone stiff. I hadn't oiled the chain since purchase 5 months ago. There were minor rust sections and raised links you could see from sideways. It was slipping mainly on the smallest cog I suppose because the smallest cog has the least surface area so when those seized and raised chain links went around it they just did not fit snug, whereas on the larger cogs with more surface area that wasn't so much a problem. I figured this out and fixed it myself before I had to go cap in hand to the bike shop. So...oil your chain kids.
Sure, I have done that now. You may find them cheaper somewhere else or maybe in a different country, but at least this will give you the necessary info. Thanks for the prompt...
I will check my bike for wear on the drivetrain, but it's a fairly new bike and the chain skips on the middle gears under load. I can't shift to a larger gear than 3rd one away from the 11-tooth. I suspect the derailleur hanger is not moving enough, or the angle is wrong, or the arm is not high enough away to move the chain over. When I try to shift , the cable gets tighter but the hanger can't move. I can manually move the hanger to the biggest gear by hand, but when I try to shift using the lever, the cable gets tighter and tighter and there's no derailleur movement.
That definitely sounds like a cable issue to me. Maybe the head of the gear cable has come out of the housing and now is caught outside the mechanism. Take it to a good bike shop...
@@bicycleguru I checked for wear on the chain and gears and they look fine. I tried adjusting the cable tension and the B screw but it still does not want to shift to the low gears. The cable feels very tense near the derailleur, and slack near the down tube, so I think it might be the cable routing? Also the chain line is not very straight in the low gears and is much straighter at the high gear, so maybe I need to try and move the chain ring closer to the frame somehow.
Thanks for the simple basic steps to get more from our components. I waxed for a while, thought it worked well, but became burdensome. Now I found, as you demonstrated, keeping the chain clean and oiling less often works as well with less burden.
really like your method for cleaning and lubing the chain. especially as I find bike-specific chain lubes are a rip-off. if you calculate the price per litre it's insane! always feel like a sucker buying the stuff just not sure what else to use. it seems gt85 is not readily available in Australia, am trying to find an equivalent. wondering what the desirable characteristics of the gt85 are? is it the PTFE or another factor? wd40 have one with PTFE but market it as a 'dry lube' which doesn't seem like the gt85. great video thanks
Apologies for the delay in coming back. The shop is quite busy at the moment and have to focus on that to pay for this until it can support itself. I also wanted to do a little research to help you out with the GT85 problem. Thanks for saying so and glad you liked it. It really is insane and shockingly bad for the environment cleaning and oiling oil the time. We have a 3.8L bottle of Finish Line Cross Country here in our busy workshop mainly used for wheel building. We bought it 20 years ago and I don't think it's even half empty yet. Less is definitely more and saves heaps of time as well as cash. I will get in contact with my sister in Oz and see if she can find some other places to buy it in Australia. The searches from the UK don't tend to open the rest of the world up for finding things. I have found two that sell it, but you will have to check yourself to be sure. The first one is where I bought it from the last time I was home for Christmas pre Covid... au.rs-online.com/web/p/lubricants/8952306 and here is another I found, though it's double the price... www.desertcart.com.au/products/103593510-6-x-gt-85-spray-lube-with-ptfe-400-ml Please let me know if you are successful and I'll put the links in the video description if you are. Stay tuned... the 2nd video from now, hopefully in a couple of weeks, is a full detailed drivetrain clean...
So I use a lot of 3rd party stuff, and I just waxed my chain in a pot, and all the teeth looked great plus the chain was brand new, (last chain wasn’t even .75) And it took a while for it to go away. But eventually it did go away. Now I have the same thing on my gravel bike after getting a new chain (last one snapped after shift on high load) and now it’s jumping as wel. I feel like it will go away but I’m just puzzled on why it does this. Maybe the chain is still a little stiff from the wax? It’s weird but I wonder if you had an idea?
Is that why the crank chain ring bolts are not symmetrically arranged - to stop you rotating your chain ring periodically to extend its life so wear is uniform - nice one Shimano !
No, that's so last century with a company like Shimano. The chain rings and rear cogs from them have had lifting ramps and pins since the late 90s to improve shifting where the amount of torque going through the pedal stroke is limited. If you moved the orientation of one of their chainrings on a previously symmetrical set up it wouldn't shift as well, mainly to bigger rings. It's probably something to do with stresses on the crank arm/spider due to weight saving. They make enough money out of suggesting you should only use their components. The chains wear the other bits quick enough for them to make more cash. Use KMC chains...
I had problems with the smallest gears slipping on my giant reign. Had bought bike 2nd hand with guy swapping brand new drivetrain from his new bike onto the reign. Just inspected the brand new chain and saw the chain quick link was upside down! Now dosnt slip at all
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @Daniel-vu4qu. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. It is hard to say without seeing the bike as there are so many things it could be. Maybe the gears weren't indexed properly or the cassette hasn't been tightened up and is moving around.
Dude, thanks, I learned stuff But Gt85, wd40 are solvents I've found a nice "all weather" lube that kind of washes off with water and a bit of effort Plus, I've started using KMC 7 speed brown steel chains on my 8 speed drive Half the price, lasts twice as long
Thanks for letting me know. They have solvents in them and in the case of GT85, it evaporates and leaves the teflon the solvent was carrying. Unlike WD40, which turns to a glue type substance once the solvents evaporate. What are you using? Always keen to find better products... The brown ones are more industrial than performance. Just like the use to make them! FYI 6, 7 and 8 speed chains are the same as far as compatibility goes.
Running it over the tab is definitely my biggest whoopsie moment. Sat there on my first bike and stared it down for a good 10 minutes, then road it to the shop. Took them 2 seconds to figure out my dumb dumb.... Lol
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @joblessalex. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. There are also a couple of polls you can get involved in to determine my future videos. It's an easy mistake to make... like I said in the video, done it recently myself.
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @MarkBonerea. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. In answer to your question, some 9 and 10 speed components will work together. As an example, T.A. Specialities make chain rings recommended to work on 9, 10 and 11 speed in some of there ranges.
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @tapirlan. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. This may be outdated now, but my next port of call after replacing the chain and cassette would be checking the chain ring wear. Unfortunately, without seeing the bike it really is hard to say. There are alot of other things it could be...
I but a sram 11-28 on my 10 speed..few weeks ago... so this week in got new chain and 50 front chainring and went for a cycle around 6 km 12 and 11 cog with load it started to slip..
It is hard to say without the bike in front of me. I assume the SRAM cassette was new! So, it shouldn't be because the 2 cogs are worn. I would check the last 2 cogs are located properly by undoing the lock ring, confirming and doing up. The lock ring may not be tight enough and that could be the only problem. Another thing it could be is the gears need re-indexing because they were set to work with worn parts. There are so many things that make gears slip and it also depends on what you mean by slipping. This video was about slippage from the chain no longer engaging with the sprockets due to heavy wear. Replacing new parts with old worn parts is as common a reason as just letting it wear out. Hope this helps...
The question is.. why is the chain skipping under load on a three week old brand new Trek marlin 6.. Am I too fat for the bike or something? Genuinely asking.. (95kg/210 pounds) It was not happening in the first week or so, no obvious ware on the cassette or the chain, derailleur seems aligned and it seems to only be happening on the smallest cog, (highest gear).. Im a big boy, but damn, do I need to buy a horse to shed the extra weight or something.. :D 🥲😣
NAH, your not too heavy for it. Maybe too powerful 😉 It's a bit hard to diagnose a problem remotely, but I'd suggest the gears need indexing to include the high (hardest gear) limit screw adjusting. I base that on the smallest sprocket information supplied. Take it back the shop who supplied it or to your LBS if that's not very close. If it wasn't happening to begin with and now does 3 weeks later it's probably just bedding in issues that should be rectified with the 1st service shops offer on new bikes. Having said that, early in my professional career we had a guy who wore his smallest sprocket out in a month. He was just staying in that cog and using the 3 at the front for required gear changes. Hope you get it sorted easily...
My bike is 15 months old. It's already been through a new cassette and the chain has just come off and the bike is unrideable. The cassette was just put on in January and the three largest cassettes are loose. Frustrating. This bike has been to two separate shops 4 times.
Sounds like you need to find a much better bike shop you can rely on or learn how to do it yourself. Loose sprockets is usually the cassette lock ring not being done up tight enough or a spacer has been left off from behind the cassette. Hope you get it sorted out...
@@firebird7479 I don't want to make any excuses, but times are tough in bike shops at the moment post Covid. Great bike mechanics are like needles in haystacks. When ya find one you've gotta hang on to them. Good Luck!
@@bicycleguru I only have two to choose from. This guy had it under warranty and repaired it at no cost. Two weeks later (Yesterday) I'm riding (following your advice to shift gears occasionally) and out of nowhere the gears start changing, trying to find the right gear. Not sure if something got into the chain that had to work its way through but I thought I was going to have to walk my bike home (3 miles). It eventually found a gear, and I kept it there. I have a 1 hour ride this morning and am back in the mindset of being reluctant to shift gears because it might fall off again.
The most likely reason is part of the drivetrain is worn out. If the front and/or rear cogs are worn out too much, a new chain will make it slip because they can't hold onto the chain when power is applied. Hope this helps...
Haha moment: once in a while, rotate a bit your chain rings relative to the crank. No wait… that’s too much work. Note that on some casettes, cogs 1-2-3 maybe also 4 can be replaced: uses these as much as possible. Another note: I have over oiled one of my bikes with plenty of motor oil and it lasted forever. Never clean, always oil, excess and gunk falls off. The bike is now 50 years old, a Peugeot touring bike, on its original chain.
Thanks for letting me know you got benefit. It's a common mistake fuelled by the cycle industry on mass. Less is more when it comes to lubricating a drive train. I have a much specific drive train cleaning video coming up after the current one I am on.
My aha moment was a few videos ago, when you showed not over oiling the drive train. I was on the right track years ago, but went back to using thick oils. There's so much BS on the internet, from people that don't really know what they're doing or saying, but have large followings still. Very sad!
You should take it back to the shop and get them to sort it out. If it's new and it hasn't been set up properly that could cause skipping.... gears not indexed, loose cassette, bent hanger or B-screw being over tightened are some causes if it's a new bike.
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @boblatkey7160. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. There are also a couple of polls you can get involved in to determine my future videos. Couldn't agree more with your statement!
I’m going to cut my bike into pieces, I’m not spending any more money on it. The bike I got at Walmart when I was in middle school never messed up and worked until some tweaker stole it.
This is the only one on youtube that answer all my questions..
Excellent! So glad it helped you out and thanks for letting me know...
My thoughts exactly! Thanks for uploading.
Getting this info from someone who knows what he is talking about makes all the difference 👍
Thank you very much for saying so... kind of you to take the time.
Great. I have just replaced a teared chain and a cassette because of having issue with chain slipping. I’ve been cleaning and lubing my chain regularly and now it turned out degreasers should not be used and over oil is a problem as well. Summing up: thank you for sharing this, it definitely gives a lot of space for considerations and improvements.
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @MegaElias. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. I'm so glad you got benefit from the video and thanks for replying. I put a video up last week about cleaning and lubing your chain at the same time. This what I do to my bikes so they get mucked up by too much oil...
MAN! 30 YEARS MTB,and always been riding big gears all the time. Thank you!
I gotta say I lately have been struggling to find out what is causing this gear/chain slipping under heavy load and I finally figured it out all thanks to you :-). You're the real hero and a man that knows how to explain stuff easily even including tips and steps how to fix problems step by step
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @davidgames_cz6618. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. There are also a couple of polls you can get involved in to determine my future videos. Thanks for taking the time to comment and compliment my work. It makes all the difference to my motivation for making more content. Glad this one worked out for you...
After a number of videos with no answers, you’ve helped me track down my problem on the smallest 3 jumpy gears. Under load, they will not adjust after replacing the chain. Time for a rear cassette. Thanks !
I recently changed a fairly new but prematurely worn-out chain (SRAM) on a cassette that was nearing the end of its life - nearly 7 years old. The new chain started jumping under load like a Mexican jumping bean! New cassette! The original chain (KMC) lasted over 6 years. Those measuring tools are great, have been using one for about 5 years.
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @psychoal1967. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. I fell foul to the new chain on a worn middle chain ring way back when. It can be pretty sketchy when the new chain starts jumping around, especially when you're expecting it to be much smoother. My tip for you is to change back to a KMC chain before the SRAM one is too worn out. In my experience, KMC make much better, more durable chains than the main stream component manufacturers.
Excellent and clear advice. Good images and close up photography to complement the explanations. Thank you.
Thanks for saying so 👍 I appreciate you complimenting the work I have out in... it was my pleasure.
Thanks for sharing. I learned a lot about chain wear and the tool that I need to check it. I stopped using chain oil about 2 years ago and went to hot waxing. So far it's been great. I still have the original chain and all the original cogs and chainring. I will get a chain checker and monitor the condition of the components as I go along. The best thing I like about the wax is that dirt doesn't seem to stick to it and it penetrates into the rollers.
My aha moment was when I realised that the front chain rings receive consistently different wear depending on where in relation to the cranks they are around their circumference. So bloody obvious, yet I've never thought of it!
YUP, I had that AHA moment many years ago. I was riding the bike at the time having just put a new chain on it...
@@bicycleguru so if the chainring has double the teeth of the gear, or some other multiple, you will get teeth on gears that wear faster, unless you occasionally manually move the chain around the chainring.
Fantastic video. I have been mountain biking 30 years and I still learned something. I use my chain checker regularly but not in the largest sprocket on the cassette. It does put the chain under more tension and gives a more accurate reading just as you say. Thank you very much, that is how I will check the chain from now on.
A refreshing and simple to understand video! Good to hear your advice which was well delivered. As you said about cleaning the chain, don't use degreasers. I think it's a sneaky marketing ploy by bike product manufacturers for them to be promoted by various videos that we don't actually need. They are not cheap products! I will look out for more of your videos!
Thanks for your comments... I really appreciate the feedback and knowing you get what I am saying. I didn't think about the marketing ploy until you brought it up. What I will say is these companies have such a strangle hold on the way everyone cleans their bikes. So much so, the consumer, bike shops and channels with 'fluffy' videos are already brain washed about the use of degreasers. I can't change the world, but hope I can guide my followers to the right practices. In this instance saving time, money and our bikes.
I have a video coming in about a month covering complete drive train cleaning the way I do it. Just waiting on a customer who is generously helping me by riding her worn out drivetrain around covered in oil to really gack it up before I swap it out. There are more on other topics to come in the meantime...
@@bicycleguru Thank you my friend, I will keep a look out for all your future videos and subscribe. Take care, Simon.
@@simonmundy5387 Thanks for the support. I'll see you in the next one. All the best, Ashley
Nice job here from BB, Ah Ha factors: 1) leading edge of cogs curved to (cassette/chainrings) sharp point, 2) Don't over oil the chain! and keep it clean of muck. Sometimes I get a skip of the chain "when standing on the pedals" during a power sprint, up a short incline. Also, I'll get the chain checker, Thanks from Fullerton, California
Fantastic video!!!
My chain was not sitting in the teeth of the chainring, the chain tool said it was fine but pulling the chain away from the cog showed me there was a major issue. New chain sits perfectly, thank you 🙏.
I have definitely been over oiling my chain! Always thought you needed the chain well soaked - now I know, less is more sometimes :)
Go chain wax instead. So much better. Silca Super Secret is fantastic
Great advice, especially where you say not to over oil the chain. Very instructive, many thanks
You’ve got the most helpful video I’ve watched on this stuff
No bullshit, straight to the point. Today just had a serious crash (40 kph+, flat, sprint to pass over a bus in heavy traffic...) due to a slipped cog under load causing chain drop at front, maybe chain coming off the jokey wheel at the same time too -- can't really remember, don't even know how this was happened. Ironically I basically know all of these stuff, and I track the mileage of every component. I'm well aware of all the "issues". I have those chain checkers and I know my chain is near that point but not yet at 0.75. However during most of the times it rides just fine. When standing start from a traffic light or something the slip happens a lot but I just dialed down a bit and then everything is OK. The front chain drop happens few times but I managed to save those situations with my skills and maybe some luck... So I think no big deal.
However when this luck runs out or you are in a very very narrow scenario where all of those things lined up, the tragedy happens... Like today if I were not try to accelerate to the car speed to not block the traffic, or not in that super aggressive body over front of the bike position, or I'm not in the early morning with little sleep and a fast reaction time as usual, in 90% chance I I think I'll just save it like many many times before, even in the situations that were much much worse.
The take away is always be cautious and prepare for the worst, especially when you are capable of doing some serious watts or have the ability to ride really aggressive -- even if you don't even plan to do so. These mechanics "semi-problem" is really those grey area, it's better to do the work preventatively. Hope anyone sees this don't make the mistake I made.
Thank you. Lots of aha moments! Liked the simplicity of chain cleaning. Thank you.
Really enjoyed the video was informative. Simple and presented in a logical manner. I’m always searching u tube on bicycle maintenance and even though I’m not a true bike mechanic I do enjoy the satisfaction of maintaining & fixing things. Keep up the work sir🚴🏼
Glad I could help and you enjoyed the video... 👍 So sorry I haven't responded sooner @richardortiz197. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. There is also a couple of polls I have put up you can vote on for what I produce next...
Happened with me yesterday,while I was riding .
Come back home wasn't a option.i manage to get in my destination as a single speed, avoiding any hills lol.
Thank you for the video
My only experience on my bikes was 25 years ago when I put a new chain and cassette on my mountain bike. I had more gears than you, but with a worn middle ring they were only easy or hard. Best avoided either way...
I have an old Giant chromoly frame with a mishmash of components. It will skip out of first to second under extreme load. I dont have all my bike tools at that location so I just live with it. Pretty sure it is just a bit of frame flex, as the wire is routed under the bottom bracket. It only happens at a 100 yard long extremely steep hill, which starts at the bottom of a river gorge, and of course starts with a turn just by the bridge. The way to get across, is to put the gear in first riding down the gorge, and let the brakes up when nearing the bottom for max speed, but not so much speed that you fall in the river. Then, spin as fast as possible with as light a touch on the pedals as possible, to get to the top, and after that take it easy for a minute to bring the pulse down from hummingbird to human levels.
Any deviation from this method will mean walking that hill, or worse, go for a swim.
More than one 'a-ha' moment Ash. Tools, checking regularly, keeping clean with the right product . Thanks - very helpful
Awesome Rick... good to see you have taken alot away from this tutorial. You're more than welcome and look out for more soon.
A really interesting and informative video. I learnt a lot. Particularly about cleaning the chain. A dumb question - you talked about chainring wear - can this cause slippage on the cassette - I assume not and you were just checking the chainrings as part of the whole process. I have just fitted a new chain and cassette on my hybrid as the chain was hopping from one cog up to the next one on the cassette but it's still doing it. Any ideas what might be causing it if it's not cassette or chain? 👍
Cheers mate. This is my biggest headache in life, the skipping chain. So stretched chain, typically? That cassette tool was my moment of realization, I'm going to make one right now. Thanks bloke.
There are other things it could be depending on the actual symptoms...
Very very interesting you say not to use degreaser on chain (and that in fact thats what chain manufacturers say)
Nice tuto. From now on i will also check my chain on the biggest sprockets. That make sense. Thanks
Thanks for saying so @Ad Glad you have something to take away.
Good choice of words for understanding clearly.. I'll be using your videos before doing some work. I put together a diy ebike 2000w hub motor with 60v 25AH battery.
Used 28 pound Specialized Dual Suspension 26" MTB..
Lightweight/Fast without overworking motor/battery... I like a lot.
(Plenty of brake torque arms I knew needed since a kid riding BMX).
But the new freewheel provided has too many cogs won't fit in.. finally got a 5 cog that fits.
Check this out if this has happened to you. See I had to completely remove the chain, derailer and freewheel to ride my ebike. I removed them all and only needed to remove the rear wheel of course And only removing the front derailer screw to slip the old chain out it's been hanging on the wall. Now how do I put the chain back on without breaking the chain apart..I got it off in 1 piece. It's a puzzle and doesn't make sense now. Keep this in mind and figure it out and make a video..how to remove a chain and derailleur without breaking it apart. It will start with remove rear wheel and front derailleur screw.
I may just take apart the nuts and bolts from the back of the frame instead of buying a new chain.
Good day.
If you got the chain and derailleur off without breaking the chain, it must go back on with the reverse process. If I made a video for that, it would start with what I think is the best chain breaker and why. I did a video on Christmas Tools to gift end of 2022. That information is there. Hope this helps...
Great tips! I will be purchasing a chain checker today.
So I broke my chain on the train. Got a new one installed and now the smallest gear pops… this entire cassette is less than 6 months old. Am I screwed? Do I need a new cassette?
Shimano are the ONLY manufacturer I’ve had that I’ve had broken teeth on the chainrings. Apart from that I’ve used Campag always and never had that problem. Campag wears IN Shimano wears OUT.
Underrated channel
All good points, thanks. If none of those sort out the problem it could be the freehub. I've had that a couple of times, once when I'd squirted WD40 into it which I believe leaves a sticky residue behind stopping the pawls engaging. I could of stripped it down and cleaned it but as it was very old I simply replaced it.
🤔some people suggest to use wd40 on it 🤔
Thanks for saying so 👍 There are many things that make the gears slip that I will cover in future videos. What you are talking about is a lack of engagement from the pawls (as you say) which may well be the WD40 getting sticky once the solvent dries out. The same thing happens to grease when it goes that red/brown colour and is more like glue than lubricant. I had a problem with my Dura Ace freehub body and used a very good video from @RJTheBikeGuy to strip it down and service if you ever fancy taking the job on in the future.
So sorry I haven't responded sooner. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested.
If say I change a chain and a freewheel is it ok to leave old triple chainrings,which supposedly don't wear that fast? What about changing worn rear derailleur pulleys,teeth look sharp
If the rings aren't worn I'd leave them alone. Like many things in life, the older stuff was made with more gumption. I would definitely change the jockey wheels if they are worn out. That, in itself can cause chain skipping and definitely won't help the shifting...
Now retired I'm doing a bit more mountain bike riding and have myself a Giant dirt 2 ebike. Funny most of my friends had a good laugh at my expence but now most of them own them too. Anyway just ordered a Pedro bike chain checker and just this morning received some GT85 spray very hard to find in Australia. Found one of my old suppliers I used to use at work sell them.
As an Electrician I've found it Best to talk to or listen to the people who use the product and work on the equipment to get the REAL evaluation and not advertised crap.
New friend in Australia Graeme
I don't really see what the problem is Graeme, especially if it is keeping you on the bike and you enjoy it. And if it's okay for pro bike riders to have motors in their bikes, it's fine for us mere mortals, Thanks for taking the time to reply...
I got new rd, new cassette, new chain, new shifters and still the slipping still occur when hard pedaling.
I placed a GoPro to record slow motion what's happening in the cassette, it turns out that if I'm on the smallest cogs, my chain will half shift to the next cogs but will immediately go back to the smallest cogs producing the slipping feeling and sounds. Is this just a tuning issue or other things still needs to be replaced?
Thanks for the advice buying a chain checker now 👍🏼
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @kevinhodgson3935. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. You are very welcome and thanks heaps for taking the time to comment. Hope your purchase saves you loads of money in the future...
I've just started riding again after years of riding my motorcycle, notice my chain jumps as I'm pedalling under force like climbing a hill Jacksonville FL always going over a bridge and checking for cog or chain wear. Thank you
Hi there, can you advise? I’ve just replaced my cassette, chain and rear derailleur. All Shimano 11 speed 105. But mainly on the large chain ring and under pressure/incline, the chain jumps quite badly. I’ve been told the teeth maybe warn on the large ring.
Thanks, I shall now go and buy a new rear sprocket because it's definitely worn in 3 of the gears. 👍
Life saver, just replaced crank gear and chain... Time to replace cassette.
My bike's 5 months old, has done about 600km and the chain slips under normal, casual pedaling every once in a while. I would have thought a new bike would be fine. It's not a cheap bike. Not expensive either. I rode an old junk bike I found on the side of the road for 3 years. Chain never slipped once. I replace it with this new bike and the chain slips in 5 months. EDIT: Issue seems for me that several chain links had gone stiff. I hadn't oiled the chain since purchase 5 months ago. There were minor rust sections and raised links you could see from sideways. It was slipping mainly on the smallest cog I suppose because the smallest cog has the least surface area so when those seized and raised chain links went around it they just did not fit snug, whereas on the larger cogs with more surface area that wasn't so much a problem. I figured this out and fixed it myself before I had to go cap in hand to the bike shop. So...oil your chain kids.
Would you be able to link the chain and cog checkers you used in this video? I trust your judgement of product selection over mine
Sure, I have done that now. You may find them cheaper somewhere else or maybe in a different country, but at least this will give you the necessary info. Thanks for the prompt...
@@bicycleguru thanks man! Appreciate it
What do you think about hot waxing your chain?
I had a brand new bike that skipped under load, it was the rear derailleur that was miss aligned.
That's not unusual after shipping half round the world and another reason gears will slip...
I will check my bike for wear on the drivetrain, but it's a fairly new bike and the chain skips on the middle gears under load. I can't shift to a larger gear than 3rd one away from the 11-tooth. I suspect the derailleur hanger is not moving enough, or the angle is wrong, or the arm is not high enough away to move the chain over. When I try to shift , the cable gets tighter but the hanger can't move. I can manually move the hanger to the biggest gear by hand, but when I try to shift using the lever, the cable gets tighter and tighter and there's no derailleur movement.
That definitely sounds like a cable issue to me. Maybe the head of the gear cable has come out of the housing and now is caught outside the mechanism. Take it to a good bike shop...
@@bicycleguru I checked for wear on the chain and gears and they look fine. I tried adjusting the cable tension and the B screw but it still does not want to shift to the low gears. The cable feels very tense near the derailleur, and slack near the down tube, so I think it might be the cable routing? Also the chain line is not very straight in the low gears and is much straighter at the high gear, so maybe I need to try and move the chain ring closer to the frame somehow.
Thank you , sir,,,,excellent video...
Thanks for the simple basic steps to get more from our components. I waxed for a while, thought it worked well, but became burdensome. Now I found, as you demonstrated, keeping the chain clean and oiling less often works as well with less burden.
You're very welcome and thanks for letting me know. Less is definitely more when it comes to chain upkeep. More time for cycling...
really like your method for cleaning and lubing the chain. especially as I find bike-specific chain lubes are a rip-off. if you calculate the price per litre it's insane! always feel like a sucker buying the stuff just not sure what else to use. it seems gt85 is not readily available in Australia, am trying to find an equivalent. wondering what the desirable characteristics of the gt85 are? is it the PTFE or another factor? wd40 have one with PTFE but market it as a 'dry lube' which doesn't seem like the gt85. great video thanks
Apologies for the delay in coming back. The shop is quite busy at the moment and have to focus on that to pay for this until it can support itself. I also wanted to do a little research to help you out with the GT85 problem.
Thanks for saying so and glad you liked it. It really is insane and shockingly bad for the environment cleaning and oiling oil the time. We have a 3.8L bottle of Finish Line Cross Country here in our busy workshop mainly used for wheel building. We bought it 20 years ago and I don't think it's even half empty yet. Less is definitely more and saves heaps of time as well as cash.
I will get in contact with my sister in Oz and see if she can find some other places to buy it in Australia. The searches from the UK don't tend to open the rest of the world up for finding things. I have found two that sell it, but you will have to check yourself to be sure. The first one is where I bought it from the last time I was home for Christmas pre Covid...
au.rs-online.com/web/p/lubricants/8952306
and here is another I found, though it's double the price...
www.desertcart.com.au/products/103593510-6-x-gt-85-spray-lube-with-ptfe-400-ml
Please let me know if you are successful and I'll put the links in the video description if you are.
Stay tuned... the 2nd video from now, hopefully in a couple of weeks, is a full detailed drivetrain clean...
Thank you so much for this!
My pleasure glad you like it.
Thank you this is the best video I've found on this!
So I use a lot of 3rd party stuff, and I just waxed my chain in a pot, and all the teeth looked great plus the chain was brand new, (last chain wasn’t even .75)
And it took a while for it to go away. But eventually it did go away. Now I have the same thing on my gravel bike after getting a new chain (last one snapped after shift on high load) and now it’s jumping as wel. I feel like it will go away but I’m just puzzled on why it does this.
Maybe the chain is still a little stiff from the wax?
It’s weird but I wonder if you had an idea?
That was nicely explained! Txs!
Is that why the crank chain ring bolts are not symmetrically arranged - to stop you rotating your chain ring periodically to extend its life so wear is uniform - nice one Shimano !
No, that's so last century with a company like Shimano. The chain rings and rear cogs from them have had lifting ramps and pins since the late 90s to improve shifting where the amount of torque going through the pedal stroke is limited. If you moved the orientation of one of their chainrings on a previously symmetrical set up it wouldn't shift as well, mainly to bigger rings.
It's probably something to do with stresses on the crank arm/spider due to weight saving. They make enough money out of suggesting you should only use their components. The chains wear the other bits quick enough for them to make more cash. Use KMC chains...
Great video thanks 😊😊😊😊
Thanks for saying so, I'm glad you liked it...
I had problems with the smallest gears slipping on my giant reign. Had bought bike 2nd hand with guy swapping brand new drivetrain from his new bike onto the reign. Just inspected the brand new chain and saw the chain quick link was upside down! Now dosnt slip at all
So why does this happen on a brand new bike I picked up today from a store? I jumped a kerb and it does this
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @Daniel-vu4qu. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. It is hard to say without seeing the bike as there are so many things it could be. Maybe the gears weren't indexed properly or the cassette hasn't been tightened up and is moving around.
Dude, thanks, I learned stuff
But
Gt85, wd40 are solvents
I've found a nice "all weather" lube that kind of washes off with water and a bit of effort
Plus, I've started using KMC 7 speed brown steel chains on my 8 speed drive
Half the price, lasts twice as long
Thanks for letting me know.
They have solvents in them and in the case of GT85, it evaporates and leaves the teflon the solvent was carrying. Unlike WD40, which turns to a glue type substance once the solvents evaporate.
What are you using? Always keen to find better products...
The brown ones are more industrial than performance. Just like the use to make them! FYI 6, 7 and 8 speed chains are the same as far as compatibility goes.
Thank you ☺️
You’re welcome 😊
My Ahrggg moment 😢😢Theading the Chain outside of the J.W. holder 🍒🍒🍒🍒🍒five Cherries fot Truthfully owing up to that one 👍
super helpfulvid, thanks!
Thanks for saying so 👍
Running it over the tab is definitely my biggest whoopsie moment. Sat there on my first bike and stared it down for a good 10 minutes, then road it to the shop. Took them 2 seconds to figure out my dumb dumb.... Lol
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @joblessalex. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. There are also a couple of polls you can get involved in to determine my future videos. It's an easy mistake to make... like I said in the video, done it recently myself.
The whole video was helpful. Thanks!
Thanks alot for saying so... Glad it helped you out...
Ok if you’re on the highway you’re not gonna be down shifting unless you get to a hill you’re gonna be in your top gear right?
...front iron biggest chain ring 44 teeth for 9speed on a 10speed where it was aluminum one and it works just fine, any thoughts...
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @MarkBonerea. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. In answer to your question, some 9 and 10 speed components will work together. As an example, T.A. Specialities make chain rings recommended to work on 9, 10 and 11 speed in some of there ranges.
Lovely stuff: thank you very much
Nice work!
Thanks @Chris Lawson Glad you like it!
I have an interesting problem. I have a new cassette and a new chain and slipping???..what might be wrong?
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @tapirlan. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. This may be outdated now, but my next port of call after replacing the chain and cassette would be checking the chain ring wear. Unfortunately, without seeing the bike it really is hard to say. There are alot of other things it could be...
I but a sram 11-28 on my 10 speed..few weeks ago... so this week in got new chain and 50 front chainring and went for a cycle around 6 km 12 and 11 cog with load it started to slip..
It is hard to say without the bike in front of me. I assume the SRAM cassette was new! So, it shouldn't be because the 2 cogs are worn. I would check the last 2 cogs are located properly by undoing the lock ring, confirming and doing up. The lock ring may not be tight enough and that could be the only problem. Another thing it could be is the gears need re-indexing because they were set to work with worn parts. There are so many things that make gears slip and it also depends on what you mean by slipping. This video was about slippage from the chain no longer engaging with the sprockets due to heavy wear. Replacing new parts with old worn parts is as common a reason as just letting it wear out. Hope this helps...
Great advice. 🚲Thanks for sharing! Now I have some advice for you, set up your referral link for GT 85 subsidize some of your hard work 👍🏽😉✅
The question is.. why is the chain skipping under load on a three week old brand new Trek marlin 6.. Am I too fat for the bike or something? Genuinely asking.. (95kg/210 pounds) It was not happening in the first week or so, no obvious ware on the cassette or the chain, derailleur seems aligned and it seems to only be happening on the smallest cog, (highest gear).. Im a big boy, but damn, do I need to buy a horse to shed the extra weight or something.. :D 🥲😣
NAH, your not too heavy for it. Maybe too powerful 😉 It's a bit hard to diagnose a problem remotely, but I'd suggest the gears need indexing to include the high (hardest gear) limit screw adjusting. I base that on the smallest sprocket information supplied. Take it back the shop who supplied it or to your LBS if that's not very close. If it wasn't happening to begin with and now does 3 weeks later it's probably just bedding in issues that should be rectified with the 1st service shops offer on new bikes.
Having said that, early in my professional career we had a guy who wore his smallest sprocket out in a month. He was just staying in that cog and using the 3 at the front for required gear changes. Hope you get it sorted easily...
My bike is 15 months old. It's already been through a new cassette and the chain has just come off and the bike is unrideable. The cassette was just put on in January and the three largest cassettes are loose. Frustrating. This bike has been to two separate shops 4 times.
Sounds like you need to find a much better bike shop you can rely on or learn how to do it yourself. Loose sprockets is usually the cassette lock ring not being done up tight enough or a spacer has been left off from behind the cassette. Hope you get it sorted out...
@@bicycleguru Thanks. This is the second one I've been to! The first one had it for a week to repair a flat tire.
@@firebird7479 I don't want to make any excuses, but times are tough in bike shops at the moment post Covid. Great bike mechanics are like needles in haystacks. When ya find one you've gotta hang on to them. Good Luck!
@@bicycleguru I only have two to choose from. This guy had it under warranty and repaired it at no cost. Two weeks later (Yesterday) I'm riding (following your advice to shift gears occasionally) and out of nowhere the gears start changing, trying to find the right gear. Not sure if something got into the chain that had to work its way through but I thought I was going to have to walk my bike home (3 miles). It eventually found a gear, and I kept it there. I have a 1 hour ride this morning and am back in the mindset of being reluctant to shift gears because it might fall off again.
Aha moment was the gt 85 tip 😊
My chain started skipping when i changed to a brand new chain. Why?
The most likely reason is part of the drivetrain is worn out. If the front and/or rear cogs are worn out too much, a new chain will make it slip because they can't hold onto the chain when power is applied. Hope this helps...
I thought I'd snapped teeth ends off my cogs. Didn't know they were supposed to be like that
Easy mistake to make until you know and then it makes sense...
Haha moment: once in a while, rotate a bit your chain rings relative to the crank.
No wait… that’s too much work.
Note that on some casettes, cogs 1-2-3 maybe also 4 can be replaced: uses these as much as possible.
Another note: I have over oiled one of my bikes with plenty of motor oil and it lasted forever. Never clean, always oil, excess and gunk falls off.
The bike is now 50 years old, a Peugeot touring bike, on its original chain.
Sujper clear, thanks a lot!! :)
My pleasure and thanks for saying so 👍
@bicycleguru The cassette checker that you have isn't meant to be used the way you're thinking. Ring rolhoff and they will explain.. cheers.
Like your style sir. Thank you.
Well, thank you very much! Stick around, I have another one coming in the next few days...
My 'a-ha' moment was am I over cleaning/over lubing my chain?
Thanks for letting me know you got benefit. It's a common mistake fuelled by the cycle industry on mass. Less is more when it comes to lubricating a drive train. I have a much specific drive train cleaning video coming up after the current one I am on.
My aha moment was a few videos ago, when you showed not over oiling the drive train. I was on the right track years ago, but went back to using thick oils. There's so much BS on the internet, from people that don't really know what they're doing or saying, but have large followings still. Very sad!
mines straight from the shop !
You should take it back to the shop and get them to sort it out. If it's new and it hasn't been set up properly that could cause skipping.... gears not indexed, loose cassette, bent hanger or B-screw being over tightened are some causes if it's a new bike.
My chain cassette are brand new, so this really provides no help.
buy a recumbent -the chain is 12 foot long and last for years
After watching this video I came to realise that I messed up my cassette and front chain rings
Ah, sorry to hear that. On the upside, you know now and can keep on top of it in the future...
Just get rid of SRAM and go with Shimano and everything will be fine.
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @boblatkey7160. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. There are also a couple of polls you can get involved in to determine my future videos. Couldn't agree more with your statement!
I’m going to cut my bike into pieces, I’m not spending any more money on it. The bike I got at Walmart when I was in middle school never messed up and worked until some tweaker stole it.
Fucking best video
(ah-hah) moment: cassette wear.
It's often over looked... Glad I could help... 👍
Thanks, Karl Marx
Thanks for saying so 👍