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That's what I am here for! Water will get in the frame from any hole it has... more to come in later vids in this series.

@@bicycleguru I always kept the bolts in and greased them, mistake or unoptimal thing I did was greasing the bolt thread and not dropping grease in the hole and then screw it, now I see why greasing the bolt threads only was suboptimal

Haha... very funny! Glad you like them

There are lots of potential culprits... lock ring needs tightening, cassette speed doesn't match max freehub capacity - fit spacer behind cassette, smallest cog isn't located properly would be the 1st things I checked...

You know it!!

Not unusual! Everyone is a bike mechanic, until they're not... In fairness, the shops can't afford the time to get everything (anything) right even with decent mechanics. Sounds like you made them pay 👍

Not much better advice than that, especially with modern phones available. I still take pics of stuff I haven't pulled apart before or a while and get pissed off when I should of and didn't...

Bending the spokes makes a massive difference to performance and longevity. It happens sometimes... the key is to fix it rather than leave. Good on you.

Defo gotta be careful how much grease goes into the ratchet system. I often find a quick fix with that problem is a little bit of oil to thin the grease out...

My pleasure...

My pleasure...

That can do it! If they were black it won't have helped... changing the colour messes with the molecular structure of the metal.

I'm not doing it for show... that's how much grease I use on my own bikes. There are caveats, like ratchet systems. I like to walk away and forget about for as long as possible. Grease is cheaper than any component or one's time. Thanks for sharing...

Thanks heaps for letting me know you're getting something from my work. Good on ya...

Another area not to trust assemblers on is bearing pre-load. Whilst in most cases its merely a performance & premature failure issue, set bearing pre-loads yourself. In fact don't rely on other people at all, unless they are tip top, but who that is into anything at top level does?

Absolutely best advice! Assume makes an ass out of u and me...

Totally agree! Be the master of your own destiny and leave no one else to blame. That's the best thing my coach taught me about my bike. It's hard to accept mediocre when one does it themselves.

I've been watching your other video on bearing overhaul. You stated not to reuse old bearings. Whoops! I need to get some new ones ordered. 😁

Thanks dude! Good Q! I always replace the bearings if I am going to strip it down. As a hack around bike I might of just opened and pumped more grease in. There was a time when the top manufacturers serviced the hubs that way. Remember those sprung clips on the middle of the hub to pump grease through..!?! I digress! Depending on whether it causes another problem like hitting the brake, chainstays,etc. I would run them slightly loose because when they are tight the deformities of whatever part will damage the other bits. And it'll be faster! Everything is relative and the situation you have described (hack bike for someone else) and they are getting a favour. So, you know...

Still chuckling cause I am replying to these in opposite chronological order... Like. I'm really laughing out loud. Thank you...

@@bicycleguru Thanks for the answer. Interesting to note you say run them a little loose. They are definitely smoother when a little loose. Removing all play results in slight roughness when spinning the axle, so isn't as smooth as it could be. Thanks again. Much appreciated.

Back in the day, yes! These days I think the materials are better matched for lower friction, but you I do think about it when a tube has last an extreme amount of time and I need to replace. It defo won't hurt, but what I would do is sprinkle some over the tube and then just rub it around with your hand. I found putting it directly into the tyre can make it lump up with water ingress...

@@bicycleguru I had a tube delaminate a bit after I removed it due to stickiness, its wasnt an expensive tire either but pressure was around 4bard+some sun and few years without change. Ill keep adding tire but on the tube, I previously put it on the inside of the tire but you end up putting too much.

Grease lasts longer and does a better job of getting in between the cable twines. I wouldn't just pump grease into the outer either because alot of it will just push through. On my own bikes (which includes good customers, friends and family) I probably rub it into the outer for 3 times as long as the video...

@@bicycleguru I never tried grease on the cable inners, my instinct for now just screams NO but Im tempted to try it because of you. What are your thought about not greasing anything on the liners in first installation?

@@oreocarlton3343 You'll find out in a couple of videos time...

@@bicycleguru thanks boss!

Not bad advice, but it also let's water in and takes the grease out. It's unsolvable problem to get it to walk away for ever and never return to maintain. Don't do this if you have a carbon frame for anyone else who is reading...

I am yet to get deeper into this, but will at some point. A tester of all things oily to clean chains with globally or something like that. When WD40 bought GT85 circa 10 years ago they massively reduced where it could be bought internationally. Last coupla times I was home in Oz, I bought from a company called RS Components. They are a UK company and it was shipped there through their network. One of the things I want to try cause it is what I used when I was racing at home is Tri-Flow which I think is readily available in the US, Try it and let me know how you get on if GT85 is unavailable...

@@bicycleguru I already use spray Triflow and it thicker than GT85. I am going to try Muc-Off MO94.

Gonna be cheeky here! The only reason you won't find something done easier or better is cause I haven't made the video yet. So very glad you are getting benefit from a host of my videos...

Have you watched my other video about cleaning and lubricating your chain at the same time?

The 2 things aren't related.If the cones and lock nuts are truly locked together a QR isn't going to change the compression between the cones, bearings and cups. All I can say on this is, running them slightly loose is better than running them tight and/or rough. So, on used parts, that's the better option...

@@bicycleguru thanks, it probably became a thing since on cheaper hubs and cones they probably flex and create more preload(?)

You are very welcome... thanks for letting me know.

That's a suck it and see situation. Wouldn't advise, but with good quality rims like the XMs and a regular check it'll keep you on your toes...

Grease is KING!

You're not the 1st to say and I see the logic...

REALLY grateful for you letting me know and glad you're enjoying them...

Same here too, Halfords do not employ proper experienced mechanics.

My pleasure! Bike supermarkets are the bottom of mechanical pride and enforcement. Hopefully, some of them work it out and learn how to fix bikes properly.

That's what it says on the tin and alot of manufacturers state things like 'only use'. I'm not saying you shouldn't follow their instructions for as high a level hub you have. From experience running workshops that aren't going to pay for dozens of different lubricants for just one particular component, I've learnt to use the best grease for 95% of situations and use the recommended stuff when necessary. By necessary, I mean try it out and see if it works before you go too far on the road. Preferably before it even gets to the road. As an example. HOPE use a very sticky marine grease for the pawls, but only put a few dabs around the ratchet ring. When I do HOPE hubs I use a bit more of the grease I have and add a bit of Finish Line Cross Country to sound and feel. Thanks for the comment

Are you saying slightly rough with no play before putting the wheel back in is good? I've just overhauled a wheel cup and cone and could only get smooth bearing feel with play, or slightly rough feel when the axle was spun without play. Is the latter better? Thanks.

@@StupidDriversOfSouthLinc-oj4uv what matters is how does the wheel behave when on the bike. It should be smooth and have 0 play, otherwise it needs adjusting or repairing - with cup and cone it's easy to damage the traces if not maintained properly - sounds like maybe that's what you have there.

@@channul4887 Thanks. On the bike, the wheel spins without any noticeable resistance and has no play. Reason I ask is because even though its fine in the bike, if you were to take it out and spin the axle in your fingers there is a little bit of roughness. Based on what you have told me, it's OK as its fine if the bike. Thanks.

@@StupidDriversOfSouthLinc-oj4uv if the play cancels out and the roughness disappears once installed it should be good. That said getting in touch with wheel/hub manufacturer (I'm guessing it might be Shimano since it's cup and cone) might be the best option if you have doubts.

Very nice of you to say so... greatly appreciated.

Hahaha... waxing is for legs and surfboards! Glad you like it...

Having used many different greases for 20 years, I've used this for the following 20 years. Super waterproof. not sticky and defo cheaper! We call the white stuff moisturiser...

@@bicycleguruDo you use anti-seize paste/grease anywhere in your process?

@@caheruane Good question! Generally, I would only use copper grease (anti seize) on titanium interfaces. The caveat, only do that the first time I fit something to a relatively new customer's bike if the manufacturer of the frame or component states requirement. After that washes out and I get the bike back I revert to the stuff that works. To give you some sort of relevance I have a 500 gram tub still 1/3 full purchased over 20 years ago. The grease I use for everything you may have seen in the videos gets consumed at a rate of 3-5 kilos a year. Having said that, I would have heaps more copper grease left in the tub if it wasn't for use on a particular part fitment. I am not going to divulge that right now as it is coming up in one of the later stages and is a super top tip. If you fancy a poke around, it is in at least 2 other videos I have done before...

Thanks for the accolades... really appreciated! Don't get me started on the lack of attention to detail in the bike industry from manufacturer to shop 'mechanics' and the end consumer. I love making these videos and being appreciated by people who want to do it right. As for the grease on the carbon steerer, personally, I smear it everywhere unless it causes a problem like the stem not holding. Alloy seizes to carbon and if left too long needs a mallet. It's common to hear carbon grip should be used and I do for seat tubes with it involved. Ya gotta forgive me, I just don't want sand near my headset...

Sorry, I am quite busy at the moment doing a 21 stage series of what's wrong with your new bike. Can you send me the time stamp of the 'glue tip' please? Glad you got something from the vid and thanks heaps for commenting about the presentation. I didn't come for the editing and framing! It's very nice to hear I'm doing a good job basically learning from TH-cam. Thank you

No sweat... Satge 3 has just gone live. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the appreciation... stage 3 has just gone live. I do use that grease on anything that needs greasing on a bike. I've used other good greases over the years, like marine grease and high temperature grease. I found this is a great balance of waterproofing, lasting a long time and not being too sticky. Hope that helps...

Forgot to say, it's reasonably priced too...

No sweat... glad you liked it.

Ah, hello squire. Nice to hear from you and thanks heaps for the appreciation. It's easy to do! Get some good shazzle in there and be happy to forget again for a while...

​@@bicycleguru, a tub of that High Perf shazzle you showed in the video is wending its way to me right now. Up to now, I've used Liquid Molybdenum (LM) grease but find it readily emulsifies - just add water.

@@Hertog_von_Berkshire Maybe I was lucky thinking about it. When I started spannering in outback Oz there was none of that fancy fandangled stuff available. Then I came to England and started working workshops being made to use the standard white stuff... quickly searched out something more resilient. The only thing worse than having to prematurely pull my bike apart again rather than riding it is a customer whining that they have to pay me to do it for them. As far as I am aware I might have been using tractor grease in the early 80s...

@@bicycleguru, 😆, the best greased bike I have ever worked on was a 1950s Claud that I bought from a guy who restored steam engines. He used heavyweight axle grease everywhere and plenty of it. Even the bb fixed cup came loose with mimimal force. He lived in London's outback ... aka Ruyslip. 🤣

@@bicycleguru , High Perf grease just arrived but the tub had split open in the post - messy. Going to do a Return but I doubt they will want it back.

You are absolutely welcome. Nice to hear you enjoyed it. Totally agree! Getting it right the first time is the simplest thing to do. I live by 'asking an expert'!

That's a good takeaway! Grease is involved in at least 90% of the stages. There's alot of other great tips coming to take onboard. I'm sure you'll be happy to pick up because you have the right attitude about bike maintenance. Internal cables are a pain in the proverbial, especially when each model of bike has it's own way of doing it. I have a video with some great tips on getting the buggers through easier.

Thanks for letting me know you're onboard and looking forward to the series. Stage 2 will be screening at 8pm tonight. Hope it meets your expectations...

Thanks for saying so. I can tell you know bike maintenance is prevention over cure. Stage 2 is lined up and going live at 8 o'clock tonight. Hope you like it...

@@bicycleguru :) Unless I can see an *excellent* reason not to, I grease every thread, or other metal to metal interface. I have too deep a lived experience of "chemical welding" to do otherwise :) Stems and brackets especially. Also **quiet** is tight and always the right choice ! [ for non political interpretations of "right" ] Mate Great channel. Thankyou!