How To fix Chain Skipping - Is Your Bike Shop Lying To You?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- How to fix your bike gears from skipping is far more than just fixing your chain...
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i like this channel it doesn't lie it help's alot of cyclist in world really love your work
Thanks for watching John!
@@Bikespeeds what watch are you wearing looks really nice
Your knowledge is unbelievable, to identify whether someone is left or right handed by the teeth. That's years of experience.
Thanks!!🧡⚙️
I got a brand new bike 6 months old skipping. EDIT: Issue seems for me that several chain links had gone stiff. I hadn't oiled the chain since purchase 5 months ago. There were minor rust sections and raised links you could see from sideways. It was slipping mainly on the smallest cog I suppose because the smallest cog has the least surface area so when those seized and raised chain links went around it they just did not fit snug, whereas on the larger cogs with more surface area that wasn't so much a problem. I figured this out and fixed it myself before I had to go cap in hand to the bike shop. So...oil your chain kids.
Chain where tool is a must have in anybodys tool box. I myself will replace the chain 3 times before I replaced the cassette and chain rings
Absolutely the best way to go! Regular replacing of your chain will always save you money over regular replacement of an entire drivetrain lol
Easy 2:1, but change he chain regularly you can get 3:1 chain/cassette
Good advice, but quick links should always be used. Chain can actually be cut to length with diagonal cutters. Bring strong hands to the job though! Chain tools actually don't often work with 1x chain.
Well thanks for the info! I just got a new chain during my tune up at a local bikeshop and the skipping is way worse than when I took it in. Looks like my 1x conversion is happening sooner! Thanks.
I've never been taught to check cassette / chainring teeth like this, that's an absolute game changer. Is there a standard measurement that you should get on a new / unworn set of teeth, and is it massively different for different speeds & manufacturers?
Fun to watch and learn. Great job!
Thanks!🧡
Now that's a good bike shop. I do all of my own bicycle work but I have most if not all of Park Tools and I like to help bike people around here if they need parts I tell them what to get or if they need me to order them but they have to pay for parts and that's all I do the work for free.
Enjoy all your work!🧡⚙️
My chainring or whatever it's called is the problem in light of this, thanks. My brother used to pile oil on the chain and that whole area of the bike was caked with that black oily mush that solidified on the frame. I think that grindy paste is what caused the wear.
Now comes several hours figuring out what i need to buy lol
You sound like Phil Collins😂, great video and presentation, subscribed 😊
Very good explaind! Thx
My chain is jumping on the smallest cog with a new chain! (only under load/use)
After this video i think the old chain has weared this cog out.
all other cogs are working great...
I bought a new giant talon 2 last year at the bike shop. It skips well after I downshift and pedal hard, to the point I almost fall on my face. The guys at the bike shop act like I’m making it up, almost as if they determine before even looking at it that it’s nothing wrong with it. Then they check it out and say it’s fine. But I guarantee if you take it for a day and ride it for real you would see. It’s pissing me off bc I don’t want to wipe out on a trail bc of it.
When you fit a new chain you instantly notice the difference when you ride.
Great video. Very helpful. Thanks
Thanks for watching 🧡
There before and after at the end 🔥
All you need is a nail and a new chain. For 1x about 1/4" over the same number of links is about it. Much less for 10,11,12. Hard to judge chainrings due to narrow/ wide, profiling and ramping. Usually the chain should sit low in the valleys without clinging. There should be a small ability to lift the chain at the middle of chain wrap.
Excellent information. Thanks.
I noticed that you are often guaging with 0.75% to 1% tool. Where we are typically told that 0.5% is max recommended for 11 speed. What is your experience and opinion on max % wear. Thank you for the great videos 👍
You are totally correct, I have a second chain measuring tool for 11/12 speed. This was a 10 speed & very, very stretched so to show that I used the .75 / 1.0 park tool do a good page on this www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/when-to-replace-a-chain-on-a-bicycle
You can't speak for all bike shops. I just bought a Trek for an authorized dealer, grabbed the handlebar before I even got on the bike and it twisted. I waited 30 minutes for them to tighten and adjust it again. They rotated it down and didn't even take the time to readjust the gear switch, reflector, or grips. On 25 percent of the pedal there is an unsmoothness with the chain, on the front quick release clamp the had it clamped resting on the fork, I didn't wanna scratch my front fork so I rotated it a bit and noticed it clamped another half inch when the fork wasn't in the way. We are talking a certified Trek mechanic that built my bike. I say get that dude out of there and get a mechanic who loves building bikes and takes pride in their work. This is in Dallas Texas.
Are you afreid of grease?
I have a brand new Shimano slx chain and brand new slx cassette. The chain does not fit snug along the teeth of the cassette. Same effect as this 0:53
I must add that they are both for 12-speed as well.
I change freswheel with new chain about every 5000km waxed chain.
Bikespeed, your description of the chain and how it wears was a bit off. Worn rollers do not cause a chain to measure longer. Yes rollers do wear and get loose, however the cassette and chainring handle individual roller wear quite well. What causes a chain to measure longer, is the wear between the pins beneath the rollers and the pin bore. The rollers DO NOT rest on the pins. The rollers rest on a shoulder half that exists on the inside of each of the inner plates. The pins run thru a bore also within the inner plates, but on a separate inner surface. Pin to bore wear is what causes the chain to measure longer, and it’s the main cause of the chain wearing. Localized roller wear isn’t nearly as bad a culprit as the pin-bore wear. Take a chain fully apart and see for yourself. Also, the tool you use to measure wear with is a little outdated. You should try using one like the Pedro’s Chain Checker Plus II, which has the ability to isolate the pin wear from the roller wear, which is the better way to measure. Now granted, if a chain is severely worn, it won’t matter what you check it with, but in my experience, an older style tool will show you have a worn chain about 700-1000 miles too early as compared to measuring with the improved tool. Park also makes a similar wear checker.
Im blessed with around 15 bicycle shops around my area that i can reach easily and not to mention people that do repairs from their home.Problem i have is.How do i choose which one should get my busines if im intrested to going to several of them that i have never tried before.I just have this thing that everyone is out to screw other somehow and just dont trust either.In turn i just keep cleaning my bike and so on and just delaying major repairs becus it still rides seemingly nice.But i do know i need to go to mechanig asap. I just hope i phrazed everything semi understandably.
1. Rarely do home mechanics have liability insurance
2. In general, Bike shops aren’t out to scam people
3. Book someone who has a good reputation on various review sites
Very useful. Thanks
My chain skips only on the hardest (smallest) gear, the other gears are fine, should i change the whole chain or the cassette, what would you suggest?
Great video! 👍🏽
Speak to your local bike shop, it could just be high screw adjustment, the chain, the cassette of all three, thanks for watching 🧡🚲
Probably always using the small ring and just recently replaced the chain.
Also make sure the cassette is clean. If there is a buildup of dirt or a small rock on the smallest cog the chain can actually skip.
to reshape skipping gears teeth:th-cam.com/video/AhR02NmQxF4/w-d-xo.html
Hey nice informative video.
Just brought a new bike foe my daughter, simple 6 speed nothing special. Built it up fresh out the carton. The gears were slipping and not lining onto the cogs. Ive been through the set up process removed the gear cable from derailleur set the low and high stop points, refitted the cable tuned the adjuster to each gear change all working well, but, I am getting the chain riding onto a cock tooth about every full rotation or two similar to what you show at the start of this video but because it’s a brand new bike there wont be any wear on the chain or gears. Any suggestions at all?
It’s great to hear that you’re building it up for your daughter. Without it infront of us it’s simply impossible to advice what could be wrong with it🧡
@@Bikespeeds I understand that completely thank you anyway
What's the lube you're spraying on the derailleur?
@bikespeeds what watch are you wearing looks really nice
That’s a 1980’s watch. I like vintage watches. I have a couple of watches from my birth year and several 80’s watches which is the era I favour for music, cars and watches!
Any ideas on how to know if the skip came from rear cogs or front chainring ? Rear cogs and chain are both NEW, deraileur had some cleaning done, not sure where it skips, only under load :(
I will visually check chain grip on front chainring, but any other tips ?
Of course it is!
My experience: The best policy is to check your chain at least every 500km. Use the chain check tool or the pull-away-from-the-chainring method, and as soon as it's getting close to being too worn, change it. As the chain wears, each time you apply torque on the pedals the chain is also wearing away at the teeth on the cassette sprocket and the chainring. Not changing the chain means you will also wear out those components more rapidly...saves a little bit, or a lot, if your cassette and chainring are expensive units. There will however come a point in time when you get slippage even with a new chain...time to change the cassette and chainrings...if they both have the same number of km on them, it's safest to assume they both need to be changed.
so...ive done a lil bit over 15000km on my 200$ bike...my chain is skipping when im trying to pedal too hard or when im climbing hills...maybe its time to change my chain or maybe the cassette too...
@@pokiblue5870 Wow, you've been lucky compared to me I guess. My $900 bike that's now got 20,000 km after almost 2 years has been through 4 chains and two cassettes, two freehub bodies, two sets of rear derailleur pulley wheels, and a bottom bracket. A challenge for me, for my chains, may be that it rains a lot here and I ride rain or shine. Getting that chain wet on the rainy day rides may cause a slight bit of corrosion that little-by-little weakens it, even though I'm always sure to lube the chain well after a rainy ride. My policy now is just to change the chain every 2000-3000km and to always carry a spare chain when I'm getting close to that.
Last time I changed chain, I experienced slippage with the new chain on the old sprocket-cassette, even though the old chain had not been slipping at all before it broke. That's the sure signal that you need to a new sprocket-cassette, and when I inspected the sprockets, there were clear signs of wear. I offer this theory: An old chain may be loosened-up enough to be able to grab better on the worn sprockets...it slides down onto the teeth a little deeper. The new chain being tighter is not able to do this as well, and therefore, it may slip over the sprocket esp when you apply heavier torque on the pedals.
chain wear is not supernatural effect: if you use same chain and regurarly lube, maintain, you can get some km when is time to replace it
@@makantahi3731 When I wrote this old comment, I had not yet decided on my current keep-it-simple-and-cheap enough policy of just using a chain until it breaks and then changing the sprockets if the new chain slips. No, chain wear is not supernatural. Who said that it is? Yes, you should keep your chain well lubed, especially in a climate like where I live, where more than half of the year I often ride in tropical downpours of rain. Even so, with the chains I usually buy (~$20 per chain), I still can expect them to last only 3-4000 km, a little longer sometimes in the dry season...rain gets into little gaps in the chain and corrodes it even though you've lubed it well, plus there's always some road grit/sand that gets on the chain and grinds it a little when riding in rainy conditions on dirty roads. Going to all the trouble, time and money, to wax a $20 chain seems crazy and we don't really know how much it increases chain life or if it reduces sprocket wear significantly. Sprockets will last only 10-15000 km no matter what you do with your chain, and they really aren't so expensive either unless you have some crazy expensive high-end stuff like Campagnolo or SRAM. So, carry a spare chain while you ride, and use the keep it simple chain maintenance method. + Kalau anda mau makan tahi, terserah.
@@Avianthro if you drove on rain, dry it after ride, it will not rust, if you drive it a long after chain is wet, it will wear more than is dry and lubed, if you replace oiling with waxing, it increases chain life for 6 times so you calculate if it is benefit for you( i wax it for free, i have old candles, you do not need fancy aditives ptfe/ws2, but waxing must be every 100km or less )Sprocket will last as long as chain wears slower, if some gears are more worn , you can reshape its teeth and start game from beginning with no expenses
Do I understand correctly from the video that you size chains based on small front chainring - small sprocket, and then cut it based on the rear derailleur tension?
Yep that’s how I do it
If you put a .75 chain beside a new chain same amount of links the .75 chain is longer
halfords is a waste of time
They should be banned from selling or fixing bikes, period
@@AwesomeAngryBiker 100%
Halfords does sell good value bike, just buy a bike you like boxed and get it assembled yourself or to a good bike shop. That's what I did.
@@hurbrowns5397 they sell very good bikes but they cant assembled them and like you said go to a good bike shop
What grease should be used on rear derailleur
Our bikespeeds grease selection! www.bikespeeds.com/shop🧡
Got a new 8 speed chain 114links, a new single ring gear, a new Cassette, a new Derailleur that's indexed, and my chain still skips when in 8th putting the power down any idea?
Re check the indexing that would be my best guess, there is also a ratio of indexing to chain length. You could either loosen or lengthen the chain and index the difference 🧡
how come my new bike is skippin under load, this is an old chain
I’m just getting back into biking after many years,and to my disappointment I’m finding out a lot of these bike stores attendant are a bunch of liars.I really believe if you dint buy the bike from them or their particular brand of bike they’re not willing to help you,most will lie and tell you a crap of sh*t.
Most retailers and sales people lie.
Why do I get this happening on newly repaired, or even newly purchased bikes!?!? It's driving me crazy. I just want a bike that works and doesn't try to kill me when I'm on the road.
@@drfx1 I get the feeling that with bikes it seems to be really hit and miss when it comes to new builds/repairs. Like you just don't know until you ride it. I've tried using 2 different local bike shops and repairs never got right first try.
I've been riding 20+ years and it seems to have gotten worse over time, maybe manufacturers are cheaping out or something? Considering taking up running everywhere like Forest Gump.
I replaced the back casssette and chain and it shifts perfectly up the cassette but chunks going down and sometimes I have to shift down twice then go up one again.
What do you reckon the bike was in storage for about 2-3 years Shimano 105 maybe 1.2-1.5k miles total in almost always dry weather (fairweather cyclist).
Could it be cables? They feel okay.
First thing I’d suggest is check the derailleur hanger alignment. If that is off, it will never shift right. If you have to rebend the hanger to get it corrected, you’ll need to start from scratch setting up the rear derailleur, as in starting with the high and low limit settings, before moving on to the indexing.
@@GNX157 Ah ty I fixed it... I just had to adjust it cycle a few meters and adjust it again a few times and bingo (so far).
@@Theparadoxd7 good to hear. If it’s never had the derailleur hanger alignment checked, make a point to have it checked next opportunity. Most bikes even from new will have it slightly off. There is a tolerance for it up down fore aft etc, but it can be made closer to perfect and on 11 and 12 speed will help shift quality and noise reduction etc immensely.
I bought a new dura ace chain for my 105 groupset, the chain seems to be skipping and my chainrings aren't that worn 🤷♂️
If your old chain was completely worn, in turn it would have worn both your cassette and chainrings. Not always visible but the wear will be there, if your skipping under load something else is worn.
Give it some time. The Chainrings and cassette wear into the new chain again.
Ive noticed that you dont use wd40 as much for Parts that have surface rust, is there a reason?
It’s not something we do on purpose, WD is a pretty good product, I wouldn’t worry about using it on anything
@@Bikespeeds Know you know this but mention for sake of others …..WD40 never on brake rotor discs, pads, braking rims. Stops your brakes working properly and makes them squeal. If accidentally contaminated by overspray clean with meths on a cloth, also skim the pads or if in doubt discard. 👌 Great channel one of my favs
didn't measurer the derailleur?
I would ask all mechanics to imagine a go/no-go tool for checking the chainrings and cassette cogs... and push it to this guy, or park tool.
We like your thinking!👍🏼
A bit clickbaity for you. But sometimes when ppl suspect a fraud there just is none. Good bike shop tells you how to better maintain tour studd.
What is the torque setting for the bolts on the big and small chain rings when connecting them back together 🤔
12-14Nm