As a professional mechanic since 1967, this is the best video I have ever seen explaining to pro & average MTB & Road the reality of derailleur problems. Please follow all his advice, but I do want to add a little bit more which will make all he is saying to add a 50% advantage on how to keep your bike working like new. The first rule, modern narrow chains like 9, 10, 11, 12, and now 13-speed chains only last 400 ~ 600 miles, especially MTB. The second rule, a chain only recognizes Miles and not Time. I can't tell you how many times I hear from Pissed Off customers saying "What do you mean my cassette and my chain are ruined, I just bought my $4000 Cervelo or $6000 Yeti 3 months ago"!! In those 3 months, the new bike could have been ridden from Seattle to San Francisco and back. Or basically hung in a garage and ridden lightly on 2 weekends. "MILES", you need to keep track of your miles on the chain. Cassettes are very expensive, chains are not. So here is my advice, whenever you see your type of chain on sale, purchase 2 or 3, and just replace them at 600 miles, "no matter what". This way you can extend the life of your expensive cassette more like 4 or 6 times longer, instead of 3 like this video advices. There are two chains on the market that honestly last 1000 ~ 1500 miles, but they are expensive, KMC Diamond, and Shimano XTR/DuraAce chains. These chains are expensive because they are very hard to make, as their secret to a long life is they have polished pins and link plate holes.
On a new system, I'll buy an extra chain or two, and have a routine of swapping chains regularly as I clean and relube them. This way, you're not buying and installing a brand new differently-lengthed chain in the middle of a transmission's life cycle, instead, your set of chains and cogs and wear together until the entire lot gets replaced.
The new format is very useful as a reference and easy to find. Last week, I searched for a certain video about fork service and I had to fast-forward through many videos because it was just a short segment and not mentioned in the title.
Thanks Dodd, you’ve got me back on the trails again! After installing a new chain and cassette I still had shifting problems... finally solved it making a simple barrel adjustment.
Amazing presentation! The best I’ve seen. Concise, easy to follow, very informative. I love how this details were not over-explained, yet providing a wealth of useful information.
Of the three videos I watched on this subject this was by far the clearest and most helpful. My morning commute was relaxing with no skipping, ghost shifting, or slow responses to my changing of gears. Thank you.
The info in this is gold. I spent hours trying to stop my gears from skipping only to realise after watching your vid I had wrongly routed the rear derailleur cable. Easy fix. Thank you.
Absolutely one of the best video explanations that I've have seen and I've been riding since I was 12 years old I'm 62 now. Thank you for helping out newer riders so they can learn. 🇺🇲🤙🏼
Your explanation is so on point. I have never even tried to touch those components (riding for about 8 years now) because I have no idea how they work (plus I haven't been interested on doing maintenance my self, I would just take my bike to the shop) but as I am about to upgrade to a new bike I am getting to understand the different components. This video is great it is giving me the confidence to get some grease on my hands. Thank you.
That's great advice and like the single subject format, I have big issues with indexing my gears, I will try some of the other suggestions you've made and fingers crossed 🤞 I can get them sorted 😀 🤟👍
Informative as ever Doddy. As a kid I never understood gears but then that was the mid 80s & we didn't have the internet... But thanks to you & GMBN Tech channels I now understand a lot more about bikes. Thanks 👍🏻
great advice. thanks. i adjusted my gear shifter as per your instructions and it works like a charm! instructions are very easy to follow. thanks again.
A few stiff links caused my chain to break my inner derailleur hanger plate to break after causing the chain to come loose from the guide wheel. Was back pedaling and couldn’t figure out what could have caused it. Thanks Doddy! Very helpful information on what to look for.
really useful. new bike for my son with gears jumping equalled a frustrated teenager. I don't know much about bikes, and after viewing this and using the structured approach, I was able to remedy the issues. just need to have him with it so he can fix in the future himself. thanks very much.
A great summary of just about everything that can go wrong with gears - probably the only thing left out was to check the jockey wheels for ridiculous slop in the bearings - historically it was never a problem with the ceramic bearings Shimano used to use, but their cartridge bearings get very sloppy very quickly by comparison. I used to be able to get 2-3 drivetrains out of a set of jockey wheels at which point they'd still shift fine, but have almost no teeth left, while with the 12 speed cartridge bearings, the wheels look fine, but are tipping 10-15 degrees off vertical when they get side loaded. They surprisingly still shift gears pretty well, but the shifting gets very laggy and sloppy, and 12 speed is bad enough to begin with for anyone used to the light snappy shifting feel from 8-10 speed shifters. This is the only video I've ever seen that even mentions what the upper gate on a chain tool is for. Topeak are about the only company still making chain tools with this feature at this stage, mostly because the bike buying public for the most part have no idea they're missing such a useful feature when they buy other chain tools.
Top presentation bro !!! I was new to shifters one or so years ago. Taken me a while to understand but rekon I'm almost there. Actually got bar end shifters on my new touring bike, haven't pulled them apart yet. Bikes rock !!
Wow. This was pretty comprehensive. Fantastic guide! Generally speaking this is the order in which I troubleshoot as well. Only thing I put earlier on in the process is asking/checking how old the cable housing/cable itself is. I can't count how many times it boils down to internal resistance in that housing that is the cause of all the problems. Mud, grit, and rust just love to hang out in there over time, especially if frames have any sharper angles on internal routing.
I agree completely. 40 years of riding shifting drivetrains and 99.9% of the time it's at either of the terminations. Either the barrel at the mech gets wear on the cable or the other side the cable housing at the shifter end gets pulled up and thru the ferrule and mangles that end making it snag so you don't get clean shifting. So sick of fighting this that I can't tell you how happy I'll be when we can finally ditch the cables for good. Can't believe we're still dealing with cables in these modern times. I've just seen AXS up close and it's not that impressive. We need some fresh ideas in this area and for someone to come in and completely reinvent it as if it shifts by magic or so you just think about shifting in your brain...and it does. That'll be the day I'm happy.
Great Video, as per the usual. Is there a video on changing the bottom bracket? That's what I need. I think my barrings are going out. Keep it up guys!!
Thank you for properly explaining chain wear. I've been telling people for years that chains don't actually stretch but no one listens to me. P.S. cables don't stretch either...
They both stretch elastically but spring back as soon as you take the load off - unless your torque output is at monster levels :-P. With cables I reckon it's more the ferrules seating into the cable outer than any issue with the cable. It's why a newly installed cable outer will almost always need tweaking during the next spin, but a new cable in an old outer is usually set and forget.
I was looking into my brake wear and cable shifting issues. My ferules have been abraded? and my cables catch in it. Time for new housing. I ordered new cables anyway, but wanted to agree with you.
@@peglor yup, this is exactly what "cable stretch" is. If you properly seat the housing into the ferrules by stressing it upon first installation, that initial readjust for "cable stretch" is no longer needed.
Yup-- I get so annoyed because the first thing I hear is "cable-stretch". Always prep the ends during installation. I cut away 3-4mm of the plastic outers and grind the end flat before jamming into the ferrules.. Hardly ever have to deal with that "cable-stretch" issue in the past 15 yrs or so since doing the preps on all my bikes .
The limit screws are not "responsible for the indexing of the gears to work correctly". They do exactly as their name suggests and sets the outer limits of movement to stop the chain falling off of the cassette. The cable tension is responsible for correct indexing and position of the derailer relative to each sprocket, and this is altered with the barrel adjuster.
Limit screws do affect indexing. If you back off either of the two limit screws even 1/8th a turn on a perfectly indexed bike, it completely ruins your shifting even if it doesnt throw the chain off on either side. Imagine indexing as a set of straight parallel lines being drawn through both pulleys and the sprocket, turning the barrel adjuster clockwise or anti-clockwise moves the entire set of lines to the left or to the right, the limit screws limit how far left or right those lines can go, so when u set your limit screws wrong you essentially allow the set of lines to move further in one particular direction which messed up your shifting.
@@p.richardssr.3137 is this any gear and all the time, or more prevalent in higher gears when putting the power down? This initially sounds like a worn out cassette where true chain jumps in the highest gear.
I replace my MTB chain every 50hrs of use,I got this advice from "mountain bike action" magazine in the early 90s and it still works for me..oh I do now have a chain checker and the 50hrs of use corresponds.👍
Does it work well with 1X? I had issues with premature wear on my first few 1X drivetrains (ended up having to always replace everything) but now I've got nice XT 12 speed and I'm thinking about getting back on the early chain replacement program...
Great video! Just sold my old MTB to my brother who is getting into this. I shared this video with him. Now, let's see if he can figure out what's wrong with the shifting on the bike. I know the answer. The cable is old, teared and a little rusty. Too much friction. Of course I did not tell him that when I sold the bike😆
Sometimes when i was newer at this kind of things i would genuinely care about using always the correct tool and thinking twice. After a couple of years i can say that i fixed more stuff by using mere violence than by using the correct tool and technique
Interesting and useful video! My gears are fine until I have to pedal hard up a steep hill and then it skips gears by itself. Will try the maintenance you suggested and see if it continues to happen
Twice I've had a skipping problem on two different bikes 10 years apart and both times it was caused by a chain pin that had come out of the inner half of a chain link. Caused first time by shifting under load on a hill causing the chain to "slam" into the next gear. Second time I am convinced it was caused on a gravel road and a rock going through the chain and sprocket. Both times the chain was only held together by the chain pin staying in the outer half of the link. It effectively makes the chain too long because the chain is only partially connected and can flex horizontally. Riding feels like the bike wants to shift and starts to, but will often stay in the same gear. Used a chain tool to drive the chain pin back and re-seat it.
Good on ya #GMBNtech for having the patience to help out those that still don’t get it. 👍🏼. There are so many videos out on YT there to help newbies out. But they still don’t understand it from all videos. From that alone, your video should have been just a minute long of telling them to not to touch it and make things worse, take it to their LBS and get a mechanic to look at it. 😉😁 All the mechanics know and have seen bikes come in from the owners doing their own work and things are horrible. Truth!
a good explanation of something I know how to do like 'riding a bike' after 30 years of experience in various bike designs, from the 18-21 speed bikes of the '80s & 90's to the modern 10-speed of today (that still sounds weird, always assumed we would just get more and more gears)
I was going crazy trying to figure out why my chain was skipping up to the next cog (on the 4th and 6th cogs only) - I thought I might have bent teeth grabbing the chain, etc. It turned out that I had the cable running the wrong direction around the lock bolt, just like you said at 8:07. I ran it the correct way, and now it shifts like butter! You saved me a ton of trouble! Thanks so much!
Recently sorted rears out with little problem, but those front derailiers are a PITA. Quite often only 1 adjustment screw is contacting to make needed changes.
Really good video. Probably not something to own up to, but - I think I had inconsistent gear changes when the bearings on my rear suspension were damaged after a long wet winter with poor cleaning regime (jet wash!?) -there was too much play on the rear triangle -when bearings were serviced (replaced) things much better.
I’ve ridden almost 35 years and this is the best explanation I’ve seen good effort!!
You aware of "Syd Fixes Bikes" here on youtube?!
Thanks!
Doddy explains things really well ;)
As a professional mechanic since 1967, this is the best video I have ever seen explaining to pro & average MTB & Road the reality of derailleur problems. Please follow all his advice, but I do want to add a little bit more which will make all he is saying to add a 50% advantage on how to keep your bike working like new. The first rule, modern narrow chains like 9, 10, 11, 12, and now 13-speed chains only last 400 ~ 600 miles, especially MTB. The second rule, a chain only recognizes Miles and not Time. I can't tell you how many times I hear from Pissed Off customers saying "What do you mean my cassette and my chain are ruined, I just bought my $4000 Cervelo or $6000 Yeti 3 months ago"!! In those 3 months, the new bike could have been ridden from Seattle to San Francisco and back. Or basically hung in a garage and ridden lightly on 2 weekends. "MILES", you need to keep track of your miles on the chain. Cassettes are very expensive, chains are not. So here is my advice, whenever you see your type of chain on sale, purchase 2 or 3, and just replace them at 600 miles, "no matter what". This way you can extend the life of your expensive cassette more like 4 or 6 times longer, instead of 3 like this video advices. There are two chains on the market that honestly last 1000 ~ 1500 miles, but they are expensive, KMC Diamond, and Shimano XTR/DuraAce chains. These chains are expensive because they are very hard to make, as their secret to a long life is they have polished pins and link plate holes.
On a new system, I'll buy an extra chain or two, and have a routine of swapping chains regularly as I clean and relube them.
This way, you're not buying and installing a brand new differently-lengthed chain in the middle of a transmission's life cycle, instead, your set of chains and cogs and wear together until the entire lot gets replaced.
The new format is very useful as a reference and easy to find. Last week, I searched for a certain video about fork service and I had to fast-forward through many videos because it was just a short segment and not mentioned in the title.
Thanks Dodd, you’ve got me back on the trails again! After installing a new chain and cassette I still had shifting problems... finally solved it making a simple barrel adjustment.
Amazing presentation! The best I’ve seen. Concise, easy to follow, very informative. I love how this details were not over-explained, yet providing a wealth of useful information.
Great format! Just the right amount of depth and visual guides. Don't change a thing.
Of the three videos I watched on this subject this was by far the clearest and most helpful. My morning commute was relaxing with no skipping, ghost shifting, or slow responses to my changing of gears. Thank you.
Literaly what i needed right now
a girlfriend
@@Someone-nt8wz not funny , didn’t laugh
@@bendavidson4958 who dafuq asked if its funny?
@@Someone-nt8wz Nobody dafuq asked if it's stupid; but it is. Do yourself and everyone else a favor and delete it.
@@Someone-nt8wz yh ur defo sad with your life 🤣
The info in this is gold. I spent hours trying to stop my gears from skipping only to realise after watching your vid I had wrongly routed the rear derailleur cable. Easy fix.
Thank you.
I have used your tutorials to index my gears several times. Great advice and a after a couple of times I gave it down. Can even fix it mid ride.
Absolutely one of the best video explanations that I've have seen and I've been riding since I was 12 years old I'm 62 now. Thank you for helping out newer riders so they can learn. 🇺🇲🤙🏼
getting old xd. ever been in a elvis concert?
Your explanation is so on point. I have never even tried to touch those components (riding for about 8 years now) because I have no idea how they work (plus I haven't been interested on doing maintenance my self, I would just take my bike to the shop) but as I am about to upgrade to a new bike I am getting to understand the different components. This video is great it is giving me the confidence to get some grease on my hands. Thank you.
me: *buys new set of gears*
GMBN 3 days later: How to fix your gears
Doh!
Lol
THANK YOU, DODDY! The best explanation of rear mech adjustment I’ve seen. Love this format, too.
Glad it was helpful!
I have to echo this, it’s literally what I needed after my ride this weekend. It only does it in my higher gears. Thanks Doddy!
Glad to help!
Thank you so much for this tutorial!!! Just what was needed.
That's great advice and like the single subject format, I have big issues with indexing my gears, I will try some of the other suggestions you've made and fingers crossed 🤞 I can get them sorted 😀 🤟👍
Informative as ever Doddy. As a kid I never understood gears but then that was the mid 80s & we didn't have the internet... But thanks to you & GMBN Tech channels I now understand a lot more about bikes. Thanks 👍🏻
No nonsense and easy to follow, well done. Thanks!
Great video, one if the most helpful, well-explained videos I've seen.
the cable tension to me is the trickiest thing to get right. i was over-tightening everything initially . Doddy's a good teacher
Such amazing explanations on this channel, love it
One of the easiest bike gear adjustment videos I’ve watched (and I’ve watched plenty!) - thank you so much!
Having issues that no bike shop was able to fix, but found two good tips in this video. Thanks a lot, I will try them!!
great advice. thanks. i adjusted my gear shifter as per your instructions and it works like a charm! instructions are very easy to follow. thanks again.
I must admit I haven't watched your videos before, but I found it to be clear and concise.
excellent work
Fabulous tutorial easy to understand and consisive informative video ... Covers all bases Thank You Perfect 👌
Really like your tech tips and quick tips - thanks!
A few stiff links caused my chain to break my inner derailleur hanger plate to break after causing the chain to come loose from the guide wheel. Was back pedaling and couldn’t figure out what could have caused it. Thanks Doddy! Very helpful information on what to look for.
Good on you, Doddy! Proper content!
really useful. new bike for my son with gears jumping equalled a frustrated teenager. I don't know much about bikes, and after viewing this and using the structured approach, I was able to remedy the issues. just need to have him with it so he can fix in the future himself.
thanks very much.
Great Video! Really liked the full explanation in one!
Very concise and easy to follow. Thank you.
I was having the "slow up-shift" issue. I gave the B-screw a quarter turn and it's perfect now. Thank you!
A great summary of just about everything that can go wrong with gears - probably the only thing left out was to check the jockey wheels for ridiculous slop in the bearings - historically it was never a problem with the ceramic bearings Shimano used to use, but their cartridge bearings get very sloppy very quickly by comparison. I used to be able to get 2-3 drivetrains out of a set of jockey wheels at which point they'd still shift fine, but have almost no teeth left, while with the 12 speed cartridge bearings, the wheels look fine, but are tipping 10-15 degrees off vertical when they get side loaded. They surprisingly still shift gears pretty well, but the shifting gets very laggy and sloppy, and 12 speed is bad enough to begin with for anyone used to the light snappy shifting feel from 8-10 speed shifters.
This is the only video I've ever seen that even mentions what the upper gate on a chain tool is for. Topeak are about the only company still making chain tools with this feature at this stage, mostly because the bike buying public for the most part have no idea they're missing such a useful feature when they buy other chain tools.
The video is truly excellent. Clear and well-illustrated.
Thank you for all of the great content.
Brilliant vid & just what I needed 🤙🏻
this is the best explanation for setting up gears that i have seen to date
Top presentation bro !!! I was new to shifters one or so years ago. Taken me a while to understand but rekon I'm almost there. Actually got bar end shifters on my new touring bike, haven't pulled them apart yet. Bikes rock !!
That’s fantastic, thanks so much I will try all those tips. Thank you 😁👍
This is the best easy user friendly vid i have ever seen on this topic. Thank you :)
This has been an awesome start to finish tutorial and much appreciated,
But I do still enjoy the normal "coffee talk" format as well
Wow. This was pretty comprehensive. Fantastic guide! Generally speaking this is the order in which I troubleshoot as well.
Only thing I put earlier on in the process is asking/checking how old the cable housing/cable itself is. I can't count how many times it boils down to internal resistance in that housing that is the cause of all the problems. Mud, grit, and rust just love to hang out in there over time, especially if frames have any sharper angles on internal routing.
I agree completely. 40 years of riding shifting drivetrains and 99.9% of the time it's at either of the terminations. Either the barrel at the mech gets wear on the cable or the other side the cable housing at the shifter end gets pulled up and thru the ferrule and mangles that end making it snag so you don't get clean shifting. So sick of fighting this that I can't tell you how happy I'll be when we can finally ditch the cables for good. Can't believe we're still dealing with cables in these modern times. I've just seen AXS up close and it's not that impressive. We need some fresh ideas in this area and for someone to come in and completely reinvent it as if it shifts by magic or so you just think about shifting in your brain...and it does. That'll be the day I'm happy.
Very detailed. I was able to trouble shoot my shifting issues based on this content. Thank you!
Nice one! Very well explained, thanks!
Nice clear information as always 👌 thanks MR D 😊
thanks guys, very helpful video, help me solve my transmission problems !👍
Golden as always, Doddy! 🤘🤘
Great Video, as per the usual. Is there a video on changing the bottom bracket? That's what I need. I think my barrings are going out. Keep it up guys!!
Really good vid. Very thorough
Once again brilliant and clear explanation thanks again
Thank you for explaining the tension (height) adjustment.
Great video. Well explained.
Thank you for properly explaining chain wear. I've been telling people for years that chains don't actually stretch but no one listens to me. P.S. cables don't stretch either...
They both stretch elastically but spring back as soon as you take the load off - unless your torque output is at monster levels :-P. With cables I reckon it's more the ferrules seating into the cable outer than any issue with the cable. It's why a newly installed cable outer will almost always need tweaking during the next spin, but a new cable in an old outer is usually set and forget.
I was looking into my brake wear and cable shifting issues. My ferules have been abraded? and my cables catch in it. Time for new housing. I ordered new cables anyway, but wanted to agree with you.
@@peglor yup, this is exactly what "cable stretch" is. If you properly seat the housing into the ferrules by stressing it upon first installation, that initial readjust for "cable stretch" is no longer needed.
Yup-- I get so annoyed because the first thing I hear is "cable-stretch". Always prep the ends during installation. I cut away 3-4mm of the plastic outers and grind the end flat before jamming into the ferrules.. Hardly ever have to deal with that "cable-stretch" issue in the past 15 yrs or so since doing the preps on all my bikes
.
Great video. Perfect for my new bike den. Now i can do some bike maintenance.🤙🏻thanks .
I have learned so much, thank you 🙏
thanks man, another very informative vid, great stuff
Thank you so much for the help. Truly appreciate it.
Very helpful. Thanks!
Fantastic video!! Thank you!!
Awesome. Thank you, from Fort Collins, CO
Thanks for the lesson 👍
Thanks for this!
The limit screws are not "responsible for the indexing of the gears to work correctly". They do exactly as their name suggests and sets the outer limits of movement to stop the chain falling off of the cassette. The cable tension is responsible for correct indexing and position of the derailer relative to each sprocket, and this is altered with the barrel adjuster.
Going to try the cable adjustment....1st, when i get skipping gear while in motion.
Limit screws do affect indexing. If you back off either of the two limit screws even 1/8th a turn on a perfectly indexed bike, it completely ruins your shifting even if it doesnt throw the chain off on either side.
Imagine indexing as a set of straight parallel lines being drawn through both pulleys and the sprocket, turning the barrel adjuster clockwise or anti-clockwise moves the entire set of lines to the left or to the right, the limit screws limit how far left or right those lines can go, so when u set your limit screws wrong you essentially allow the set of lines to move further in one particular direction which messed up your shifting.
@@p.richardssr.3137 is this any gear and all the time, or more prevalent in higher gears when putting the power down? This initially sounds like a worn out cassette where true chain jumps in the highest gear.
@@13ballom they do not, they are completely independent unless you set them up wrong to impede in the derailleur aligning with the outer gears.
Ya , he said that.
I replace my MTB chain every 50hrs of use,I got this advice from "mountain bike action" magazine in the early 90s and it still works for me..oh I do now have a chain checker and the 50hrs of use corresponds.👍
Does it work well with 1X? I had issues with premature wear on my first few 1X drivetrains (ended up having to always replace everything) but now I've got nice XT 12 speed and I'm thinking about getting back on the early chain replacement program...
Great video! Just sold my old MTB to my brother who is getting into this. I shared this video with him. Now, let's see if he can figure out what's wrong with the shifting on the bike. I know the answer. The cable is old, teared and a little rusty. Too much friction. Of course I did not tell him that when I sold the bike😆
Great tips, thank you!
I had bad shifting last week and I found out that my cassette was was bent like a taco so I took it out and bashed it straight with a hammer
If in doubt give it a clout
Easy solution
Sam pilgrim be like
Sometimes when i was newer at this kind of things i would genuinely care about using always the correct tool and thinking twice. After a couple of years i can say that i fixed more stuff by using mere violence than by using the correct tool and technique
🤙🤙🤙
Cheers for that. Good explanation
New mtn biker from the States. Thanks for the informative maintenance videos, they are much appreciated
very clear explanation awesome 👌
Best explanation ever!! Thanks heaps
This is awesome. You are the MAN!
Interesting and useful video! My gears are fine until I have to pedal hard up a steep hill and then it skips gears by itself. Will try the maintenance you suggested and see if it continues to happen
Great video, very informative
Great video explanation thanks 👍🏻
Good stuff. I had a similar issue on a brand new bike (after riding rough terrain) and figured its a problem with misaligned thingy..
Great video! More this this would be great!
Best explanation that I've seen yet 🙌
Thank you so much for this, you really good at this!
No joke! Had this issue all this week and beyond frustrating til you figure out the basics. Doddy is one of the best!
Great video - thank you!
Twice I've had a skipping problem on two different bikes 10 years apart and both times it was caused by a chain pin that had come out of the inner half of a chain link. Caused first time by shifting under load on a hill causing the chain to "slam" into the next gear. Second time I am convinced it was caused on a gravel road and a rock going through the chain and sprocket. Both times the chain was only held together by the chain pin staying in the outer half of the link. It effectively makes the chain too long because the chain is only partially connected and can flex horizontally. Riding feels like the bike wants to shift and starts to, but will often stay in the same gear. Used a chain tool to drive the chain pin back and re-seat it.
Exactly my issue, tightening bolts fixed it, thanks Tech man.
No problem 👍
Good on ya #GMBNtech for having the patience to help out those that still don’t get it. 👍🏼. There are so many videos out on YT there to help newbies out. But they still don’t understand it from all videos.
From that alone, your video should have been just a minute long of telling them to not to touch it and make things worse, take it to their LBS and get a mechanic to look at it. 😉😁
All the mechanics know and have seen bikes come in from the owners doing their own work and things are horrible. Truth!
Very good instructions
Great thing i watched the whole video, fixed that stiff link problem 👍
Best Video ever. Thanks mate
a good explanation of something I know how to do like 'riding a bike' after 30 years of experience in various bike designs, from the 18-21 speed bikes of the '80s & 90's to the modern 10-speed of today (that still sounds weird, always assumed we would just get more and more gears)
Great explanation!
brilliant, great tips thanks
professor doddy...great stuff...super comprehensive, thanks!
More to come!
Excellent video.
I was going crazy trying to figure out why my chain was skipping up to the next cog (on the 4th and 6th cogs only) - I thought I might have bent teeth grabbing the chain, etc. It turned out that I had the cable running the wrong direction around the lock bolt, just like you said at 8:07. I ran it the correct way, and now it shifts like butter! You saved me a ton of trouble! Thanks so much!
Every second is Gold !!!
Recently sorted rears out with little problem, but those front derailiers are a PITA. Quite often only 1 adjustment screw is contacting to make needed changes.
Really great video thx a lot
It was the best video in this topic ever!
Really good video. Probably not something to own up to, but - I think I had inconsistent gear changes when the bearings on my rear suspension were damaged after a long wet winter with poor cleaning regime (jet wash!?) -there was too much play on the rear triangle -when bearings were serviced (replaced) things much better.
That helped me a lot! Ty