*Worked perfectly right out of the box **MyBest.Tools** a nice compact bench bandsaw, that will work with 1/4 to 1/2 inch blades! First use was a joy, better quality than I expected for the price ! ! !*
I was pretty surprised at the results. If you’re cutting mostly exotic woods I would use the bymetal blade as it will resist all the dulling properties in exotics.
What were you cutting? If you get on the Timberwolf website they have a list of all their blades and specific materials and types of cuts each blade will do and is made for. Blades can also gum up just like table saw blades and they can and should be cleaned, which will really help their performance. I use the orange bit and blade cleaner sold at woodcraft. I fold the blade up and spray it on all the teeth. Then whipe it down and reinstall on the saw. Seems to help quite a bit.
So far it cuts beautifully but I have herd that the wood slicer dulls fairly fast so I’m avoiding exotics with it and using the Timberwolf. Both cut great !
Having had more than my fair share of eye surgeries, I would strongly suggest eye protection whenever using any power tools. Breathing protection would be smart too.
I would use a little bit of double-sided tape and tape it to a nice flat surface say a board that’s been pre-jointed and then just go over it with a sander
@@MSRWorkshop yeah I was wondering about the Resaw King compared to these two. For the price though I feel like the ReSlicer is tough to beat. But my general purpose blade is a Timber Wolf and likely will be my choice until something else comes out. I really have always been 100% happy with it.
You mentioned disagreeing with using the widest blade the machine will take. Why? I see in previous comments that a 5/8" performed better than the 1" that was his saw's max.
We’ll I suppose it depends on the saw. Just because the saw says it will take a 1in blade doesn’t mean it will work well. Most smaller says can take wide blades but do a poor job at tensioning them. There are quite a lot of internet discussions regarding blade tensioning and most will agree that most medium smaller saws can’t handle a very large blade…. Unrelated to actual capacity’s of the saw.
@@MSRWorkshop Thank you! You and Snodgrass advise using a smaller blade than max, you based on tensioning and him based on keeping it centered. Mine is a classic Delta 14" with riser. I'm going to try a 1/2" TimberWolf AS 3 TPI for resawing and prepping limbs for the lathe (both new tasks to me). Their boxes also have the list of applications for each of their blades. Very helpful (that and your video)!
I have not but I will give them a look I have used Olsen, Timberwolf, wood slicer and Lennox carbide. I don’t have a carbide right now because I sold it with my previous saw but I’m looking at getting another one, possibly a laguna….. but I’m a bit nervous because I’ve herd they brake a lot.
@@MSRWorkshop The Greenwood blade, from Carter Products, came highly recommended directly from Alex Snodgrass. He said it will be the best blade I ever used. So I have a 3/8 & 5/8 coming. Thx
@@MSRWorkshop Will do, should have them by the end of this week. I’ll see what they can do over the weekend. I have a Powermatic PM1500 and the specs say 1/8 to 1” blade for machine capacity. All I’ve ever heard was for ripping, get the biggest blade your machine can handle. So I put a 1” ripping blade on it and it was horrible. Spoke to Alex about it and he said the 1” blade is way over kill for my saw, and that’s when he recommended the 5/8 3tpi Greenwood blade. Thx
@@MSRWorkshop Just installed the 5/8” Greenwood blade by Carter Products, just awesome! Smooth, effortless cutting! Best feeling blade I’ve ever used in my bandsaw. Lennox and Timberwolf are off my list. 😁👍🏻
Timber world didnt even contact the side guides on the careful speed cut, thats one damn straight cut. got the timber wolf 3 blade starter set and its awesome 3/4 1/2 and 1/4 cover pretty much everything I need on my inca euro 310
Did you change the tension when you switched blades? because the highland woodworking is meant to be tight as hell and the Timber World is meant to be just eneough tension to pass the flutter test." When you run the blade and the long un guided section does not do any harmonic fuzzing when you look at it. TIghten it up like mad and then drop is slowly untill if starts to fuzz the tighten it back up just past that and the timber wolf is in its happy place" If you didn't do this the then the results are kinda skewed as they will not both be optimal at the same spot.
I like Timberwolf blades but they frequently have bad blade welds (now welded straight) causing blade wobble. They are sure sharp. Lately I have ordered direct from them because I can order the tooth and blade width for my application. Yes i tension each blade different. The wood slicer is quite a bit thinner than the other blades so it doesn’t need as much tension compared say to an Olsen blade of the same width. The wood slicer doesn’t stay sharp that long on any exotic woods so if you get o e be aware of that. Currently I’m using a Lennox Tri Tip Carbide blade. Dosnt do curved cuts but it resaws amazing
I have not because I am scared of how often I hear it breaks. And for $300 a blade it makes me a little nervous. I had a carbide toothed Lennox or Sterret blade on my previous 18in saw and it was really nice.
When comparing the widths of the blades whether it is a 1//2" or 3/4" on either the Timber Wolf or Wood Slicer what has been your overall cut quality between the two that you prefer? Is there a specific exotic hardwood you have used that has dulled any of your blades? I use a lot of Padauk in my project, would this exotic wood be one you are referring to?
I use paduk and buinga as well. Because the Timberwolf is a bi-metal blade is is supposed to stay sharper much longer because of how hard the steel is. I can’t verify this because I haven’t used it longe enough. The wood slicer is a great blade to but it is a thin kerf so I can’t imagine it staying sharp as long in such abusive exotic hard woods.
Lol, I wish. I do find that the welds aren’t always the smoothest on the Timberwolf and it makes the blade “tick” on the bearings. The wood slicer is a fantastic blade and has the benefit of a thin kerf but I’m not sure how long it’s gonna last on exotic woods. With the byMetal blade at least I know it’s going to hold and edge much longer even though I’m getting a slightly bigger Kerf. Eventually I would like to invest in a carbide tooth blade in but I have been very hesitant to purchase some thing like a laguna blade because I hear they break quite frequently, and two to 300 $ a blade that’s unacceptable. I had a Linux carbide blade on my previous bandsaw and it worked great but I know not everybody can run such a heavy blade on their saws because they require a lot of tension to work properly. And that blade was also around $300.
*Worked perfectly right out of the box **MyBest.Tools** a nice compact bench bandsaw, that will work with 1/4 to 1/2 inch blades! First use was a joy, better quality than I expected for the price ! ! !*
I’ve used both blades. The wood slicer is byyyy farrrr the best bandsaw blade I’ve ever used. It it’s literally like a hot knife thru butter.
I love both but I’m using the Timberwolf for exotics and the wood slicer for domestics because I’ve herd the wood slicer dulls quickly with exotics
Nice video. Thanks for varying the feed rates and showing the results in detail.
I was pretty surprised at the results. If you’re cutting mostly exotic woods I would use the bymetal blade as it will resist all the dulling properties in exotics.
I bought a Timberwolf for my Delta 14”, 4 cuts and it was done!
What were you cutting? If you get on the Timberwolf website they have a list of all their blades and specific materials and types of cuts each blade will do and is made for.
Blades can also gum up just like table saw blades and they can and should be cleaned, which will really help their performance. I use the orange bit and blade cleaner sold at woodcraft. I fold the blade up and spray it on all the teeth. Then whipe it down and reinstall on the saw. Seems to help quite a bit.
Thanks for the review. Been using the same Timber Wolf blade for about a week with good results. Thanks
So far it cuts beautifully but I have herd that the wood slicer dulls fairly fast so I’m avoiding exotics with it and using the Timberwolf. Both cut great !
I have used both but I found the wood slicer to be one of the best for longevity. It lasted longer than my timber wolf.
Do you have any videos about installing the magnetic sheeting that you installed on your equipment?
Looks like a great idea 💡
I don’t actually have a full video. Maybe ill have to make one.
good comparison. Thank you for sharing your experiences.
My pleasure
That’s insane quality for a 3 tip blade. I’m sold, I gotta buy one of these
Having had more than my fair share of eye surgeries, I would strongly suggest eye protection whenever using any power tools. Breathing protection would be smart too.
Thanks for this video! Gonna order the TW. ? If you dont have a drum sander, how would you recommend sanding the rough cut side of the thin veneer?
I would use a little bit of double-sided tape and tape it to a nice flat surface say a board that’s been pre-jointed and then just go over it with a sander
@@MSRWorkshop WOW! Never thought of that!! THank you so much!!!!
I have both blades. The Timber Wolf has served my resawing better than the Wood Slicer. Great video.
I am currently using the Lenox TriMaster carbide blade. Works very well
@@MSRWorkshop yeah I was wondering about the Resaw King compared to these two. For the price though I feel like the ReSlicer is tough to beat. But my general purpose blade is a Timber Wolf and likely will be my choice until something else comes out. I really have always been 100% happy with it.
You mentioned disagreeing with using the widest blade the machine will take. Why?
I see in previous comments that a 5/8" performed better than the 1" that was his saw's max.
We’ll I suppose it depends on the saw. Just because the saw says it will take a 1in blade doesn’t mean it will work well. Most smaller says can take wide blades but do a poor job at tensioning them. There are quite a lot of internet discussions regarding blade tensioning and most will agree that most medium smaller saws can’t handle a very large blade…. Unrelated to actual capacity’s of the saw.
@@MSRWorkshop Thank you! You and Snodgrass advise using a smaller blade than max, you based on tensioning and him based on keeping it centered.
Mine is a classic Delta 14" with riser. I'm going to try a 1/2" TimberWolf AS 3 TPI for resawing and prepping limbs for the lathe (both new tasks to me). Their boxes also have the list of applications for each of their blades. Very helpful (that and your video)!
Have you used Carter Products bandsaw blades? Specifically the Greenwood line of blade from them. Your thoughts? Thx
I have not but I will give them a look
I have used Olsen, Timberwolf, wood slicer and Lennox carbide.
I don’t have a carbide right now because I sold it with my previous saw but I’m looking at getting another one, possibly a laguna….. but I’m a bit nervous because I’ve herd they brake a lot.
@@MSRWorkshop The Greenwood blade, from Carter Products, came highly recommended directly from Alex Snodgrass. He said it will be the best blade I ever used. So I have a 3/8 & 5/8 coming. Thx
@@tundrawhisperer4821 let me know how it works when you get it
@@MSRWorkshop Will do, should have them by the end of this week. I’ll see what they can do over the weekend. I have a Powermatic PM1500 and the specs say 1/8 to 1” blade for machine capacity. All I’ve ever heard was for ripping, get the biggest blade your machine can handle. So I put a 1” ripping blade on it and it was horrible. Spoke to Alex about it and he said the 1” blade is way over kill for my saw, and that’s when he recommended the 5/8 3tpi Greenwood blade. Thx
@@MSRWorkshop Just installed the 5/8” Greenwood blade by Carter Products, just awesome! Smooth, effortless cutting! Best feeling blade I’ve ever used in my bandsaw. Lennox and Timberwolf are off my list. 😁👍🏻
Timber world didnt even contact the side guides on the careful speed cut, thats one damn straight cut. got the timber wolf 3 blade starter set and its awesome 3/4 1/2 and 1/4 cover pretty much everything I need on my inca euro 310
Did you change the tension when you switched blades? because the highland woodworking is meant to be tight as hell and the Timber World is meant to be just eneough tension to pass the flutter test." When you run the blade and the long un guided section does not do any harmonic fuzzing when you look at it. TIghten it up like mad and then drop is slowly untill if starts to fuzz the tighten it back up just past that and the timber wolf is in its happy place"
If you didn't do this the then the results are kinda skewed as they will not both be optimal at the same spot.
I like Timberwolf blades but they frequently have bad blade welds (now welded straight) causing blade wobble.
They are sure sharp. Lately I have ordered direct from them because I can order the tooth and blade width for my application.
Yes i tension each blade different. The wood slicer is quite a bit thinner than the other blades so it doesn’t need as much tension compared say to an Olsen blade of the same width.
The wood slicer doesn’t stay sharp that long on any exotic woods so if you get o e be aware of that.
Currently I’m using a Lennox Tri Tip Carbide blade. Dosnt do curved cuts but it resaws amazing
Have you tried the Laguna blade?
I have not because I am scared of how often I hear it breaks. And for $300 a blade it makes me a little nervous. I had a carbide toothed Lennox or Sterret blade on my previous 18in saw and it was really nice.
@@MSRWorkshop Thanks Mike
When comparing the widths of the blades whether it is a 1//2" or 3/4" on either the Timber Wolf or Wood Slicer what has been your overall cut quality between the two that you prefer? Is there a specific exotic hardwood you have used that has dulled any of your blades? I use a lot of Padauk in my project, would this exotic wood be one you are referring to?
I use paduk and buinga as well. Because the Timberwolf is a bi-metal blade is is supposed to stay sharper much longer because of how hard the steel is. I can’t verify this because I haven’t used it longe enough. The wood slicer is a great blade to but it is a thin kerf so I can’t imagine it staying sharp as long in such abusive exotic hard woods.
What sfpm are you running?
I believe it’s the faster speed of 4200. It’s either 1800 or 4200, and I have left it on the fast speed
This is the first video out of half a dozen that someone favors the timber wolf blade...are you sponsored by them?
Lol, I wish. I do find that the welds aren’t always the smoothest on the Timberwolf and it makes the blade “tick” on the bearings. The wood slicer is a fantastic blade and has the benefit of a thin kerf but I’m not sure how long it’s gonna last on exotic woods. With the byMetal blade at least I know it’s going to hold and edge much longer even though I’m getting a slightly bigger Kerf. Eventually I would like to invest in a carbide tooth blade in but I have been very hesitant to purchase some thing like a laguna blade because I hear they break quite frequently, and two to 300 $ a blade that’s unacceptable. I had a Linux carbide blade on my previous bandsaw and it worked great but I know not everybody can run such a heavy blade on their saws because they require a lot of tension to work properly. And that blade was also around $300.
compare 2 completely different blades?????? why???????
All three can be used for resawing. So I was comparing which work better
Thanks for the review. My biggest surprise was no PPE…
Glad you liked the review.