Michael, thank you thank you THANK YOU. I have had my saw for 20+ years and it never cut straight. I spent days fiddling with it years ago and came to the conclusion it was just how it was. It never made sense to me. It is a mechanical system. If the wheels are true, then the blade HAS to cut straight! You know what it was. The table mounts. For the first time EVER, my saw cuts as it was designed. I can't believe the number of people that have elaborate processes to adjust your work to a misadjusted table. Again, thank you. This bothered me every single time I used the saw and hence, I didn't use it very often. I feel like I just got a new tool!
Very good instructions. A good teacher speaks slowly with only the words needed to convey one’s information. Only a handful of good teachers out there. At least on TH-cam. Much appreciated lesson. Fortunately my issue today was only realigning my fence with the mitre slot.
I've been in class with Michael fortune and Marc Adams woodworking School in Indianapolis. Excellent instructor very knowledgeable in all aspects of fine woodworking. This video on setting up a bandsaw is the only one you need
I am a beginner with wood working and enjoy milling my own boards from small logs. This makes so much more sense than adjusting your fence for drift. I will do this first thing tomorrow. It will make my current project and future projects so much easier. Thanks a million!
Thanks for the help. I’ve been trying to dial mine in and failing for a month. I’ll shake you hand and thank you Sir. I appreciate the schooling you just gave me. And will use it from now on.
I have watched so many videos on bandsaw set ups and you are the first to mention table alignment, I have moved my saw several times and sometimes held the table not knowing this can cause problems, I'm very grateful to you for taking the time to share your knowledge, can't thank you enough 😊
I have had nothing but frustration trying to re-saw with my bandsaw for years. I had tried every other solution I watched on TH-cam . This, my friend, absolutely solved my problem. I can't thank you enough for this solution . It works like a charm now.
Did you try what Mr snodgrass said regarding blade drift? He said to put the hollow part of the teeth on the centerline of the top wheel. Don’t worry about the bottom wheel. Be sure to watch his videos
I have been struggling with an old bandsaw I bought from my father 6 years ago, and have tried all the “tricks” I have seen online. Nothing seemed to “Fix” the drift. Until NOW. Thank you for a very informative video. My saw now cuts straight and true. DC
I messed up my bandsaw (dumb mistake) and was having a hard time getting it to cut properly again. Watched a lot of videos and this one enabled me to solve all the problems. Thanks very much!
My new bandsaw drifts like crazy so I head to youtube for help. 10+ videos later, all showing different and conflicting methods, I'm no wiser. I'll try each setup in turn and hope for the best.
Extremely well explained and demonstrated. Some of the best advice for setting up a bandsaw I've seen. I'm glad I stumbled into this video .... Cheers!!
Michael Fortune is a master. Years ago I read an article by him in Fine Woodworking explaining how to set up a bandsaw. I hated my bandsaw until I followed his suggestions in the article. My saw has worked perfectly for years. I love to use it. The blade he uses most is a 1/2" skip toothed 3" T.P. I. Thank you Michael.
robeb4 it is Fine Woodworking special issue “Tune Up Your Tools 2011. Article is titled “ Soup up your bandsaw by Michael Fortune If you are unable to get the article I could copy and Mail to you. Bob
@@robd7703 Thanks, Bob. I'm going to first try reorienting my bandsaw table per Fortune's suggestion in the video, and if that doesn't work, will take you up on your offer to mail me a copy of Fortune's article.
This is the best video that I have found on fixing band saw blade drift. Other videos have you adjust the fence to correct for drift. But this is a symptom of the problem. The cause is really the table misalignment to the blade.
I've had drift problem with my bandsaw since I got it. Your solution is very practical. Only took a few minutes & noe blade drift is a thing of the past. Plus, the fence remains parallel to the miter slots. Thank you very much for this video.
PROBLEM SOLVED !!!! Thank you for making this video.... such a commonsense thing to do that wasn't even on my radar with a bandsaw. I had always been told to set my blade gullet on the centerline... I know have it set per your instruction and my cuts have been spot on with no drift or wander. You are much appreciated !!
I just bought a used Jet 14" bandsaw that I am having to set up as if it were new out of the box. EVERYTHING is out of alignment. No wonder the fellow sold it! This video deals with an issue I have not seen anywhere else. Thank you so very much!
Great instructional video & most appreciated. Just bought a new small Porter Cable & I saw on its reviews to watch your video. Certainly glad I did. Nothing like a professional with years of experience educating us lesser knowledgeable in the proper set up rather than bashing the equipment. Subscribed, hope to learn to become a friend of wood rather than what I've suffered with through the years. Thank you!
In addition to getting the blade exactly centered on the upper wheel, I have found that tightening the tension until the blade when plucked makes a musical note also helps to get a straight cut. I have resawed maple to 1/16 using these two things and a homemade resaw fence (clamped to the table like that guy from Ft Bragg describes in his book). I never use the fence guides on the table.
Thank you for the great explanations. I will never again turn the bandsaw around using those convenient handles, lol. I also like having the bandsaw blade length on the top wheel door and the Allen key held handy with the magnet on the back. You made a subscriber out of me. Thanks again for taking the time to share this information.
Finally! A guy that also realizes having the guides close to the work will help with drift! AND, it's a huge help in the safety department! Having been a toolmaker for 40+ years, always taught to set the upper guide within 1/8 of an inch above the workpiece. If you think about that, that won't allow room for your finger to get through there. It also helps keep that blade straight! So many bandsaw videos I watch, invariably they have the upper guide like 2 inches above the work... bad choice....
Great tutorial. I especially like the fact you pointed out about using the Miter gauge and slot. I am going to try and write this up so that I can print it out and keep it with my saw for future reference/generations.
Watched this video yesterday before re-sawing some nice 2" x 5" hard maple that I plan to use for a furniture project and am I ever glad I did!!! I started cutting and within the first two inches, the blade drifted 1/4" away from the fence. By the way, this is a new saw that I had only cut a couple of pieces on until now. So, I backed it out and set the blade back to the center of the upper wheel as you said. I tried a sacrificial piece and couldn't believe the difference. Started over (after a few corrective moves...) and the saw ran straight and true for the remaining 8 feet of maple. Then I did the second piece and achieved the same results. Thanks so much for a great tip, I'm already passing it on to other woodworkers that I know!!!
I had read somewhere that the blade itself can cause the cut to be off. When the blade is made the set of the teeth are not perfectly symmetrical from right/left. Whichever tooth is further out from center will be the way the cut will pull. It made sense to me and I simply left it at that. Too align the blade you would draw a straight line on a board from end to end and have one jointed edge. Freehand the cut until you could cut without adjusting. Stop the saw and draw a reference line on the table with the jointed edge. Then you would use this line to measure from to clamp a fence. I am going to try this method. This sounds good and makes perfect sense. Thank you for sharing this.
Thanks. Someone else’s video suggested having the back of the blade gullet ride the center of the tire, but after watching your explanation I can now understand why the work piece was drifting to one side. Time to go make some adjustments and see how it goes.
Michael, brilliant video made a lot of sense to me I've been struggling with mine for a few days now so I tested out your method I would just like to say you are a wizard thank you, John
Wow, this solved my problem with my Grizzly G0555. There are a lot of guides around to fix drift, but before you do anything else, start with this step. I wonder why manufacturers don't cover this properly in set up procedures. Thanks for posting
how do u figure this?? the tip of teeth are supposed to be in middle line of wheel he has his teeth in the wrong position also the adjustment of the blade should be low to the wood ,
@@cheeesefunnel I've tried many ways to remove drift but unlike Michael, the one that worked (on advice) was to center the gullet of the tooth, not the blade center. So the blade is slightly further back than shown here. Imagine the stability of a piece of cardboard sheet in the wind. If you hold it in the center or the back it will flutter, only holding it at the front (closest to the source of the wind will you have control. I think that analogy is similar to the forces of the wood (wind) on the blade (cardboard) and how it is supported in the cut. I understand that setting the gullets of the teeth in the center, means the support guides are almost redundant.
Thank you for this! My bandsaw (90’s made Delta) will not allow any blade to be aligned with back of gullet in line with center of wheel. Ive replaced many parts chasing this issue and haven’t had any luck. I was convinced this was my issue with resaw cuts and it is as simple as this! Thank you so much again!
Thanks, Michael and FWW. This is a great video. Owners of a SHOPSMITH bandsaw need to be aware that their saw is unique in that there is no adjustment for blade tracking. The saw is designed so that every blade runs near the back of the wheel and against a pair of "Auto-Track" bearings that are in the arm of the saw. Likewise, the backup bearings below and above the table aren't adjustable forward and back because they don't need to be; all blades run to the back and against the bottom bearing, and if the saw is properly aligned, just ahead of the upper bearing. It's pretty sweet, actually. Scott
Thank you very much for your great tip on tuning my purchased used DW876, I had to disassemble it entirely for a complete overhaul and now that it is like new I have tuned it following your advice. Best regards, take care of yourself and long live your chain !!! Alain from Switzerland
WOW! What a terrific video and absolutely dead-on as to what I needed. Yep, I've been my bandsaw as described, not realizing the problem which might arise. Thank you for your expertise!
@@101411726 don’t be an idiot/critic. The content shared is very helpful on this topic. If your not an expert and have ever dealt with this problem it is good to have an expert show you how to fix it. He did that very well. I’ve been frustrated with my band saw and picked up a lot from this that solved the problems.
@@joed1901 watch bandsaw set up from Alex snodgrass. THAT is the clearest, and hands down, the best bandsaw set up video/explanation you will ever watch. Then watch this video again, and you’ll see why this is a terrible explanation and his commentary is absolutely uhh... awful. 🙄
Mr. Fortune, I centered my blade like you said, clamped a temporary fence parallel to the miter slot and cut straight halfway through a board. I flipped it end over end and cut from the other side and you can hardly tell where they met. My table was already correct but my blades were always centered over the gullet. Thank you so much.
I've tried many ways to remove drift but unlike Michael, the one that worked (on advice) was to center the gullet of the tooth, not the blade center. So the blade is slightly further back than shown here. Imagine the stability of a piece of cardboard sheet in the wind. If you hold it in the center or the back it will flutter, only holding it at the front (closest to the source of the wind will you have control. I think that analogy is similar to the forces of the wood (wind) on the blade (cardboard) and how it is supported in the cut. I understand that setting the gullets of the teeth in the center, means the support guides are almost redundant.
Best explanation ever! And the first guy not playing with saw band guidance only! Thanks and greets from Germany 👍 But excuse me, I have to go to my workshop now, checking my table angle 😊
Thank you , thank you. I have taken the time to align everything on the bandsaw, but it was still not cutting straight. This is really good information. I have ordered a carbide teeth blade, since the teeth are larger than the blade, it also helps this issue.
I have been having tracking issues with my small band saw, and thought it was the quality of the saw or maybe a blade adjustment, or even cheap blades. But never thought of how out of square the table is to the actual blade itself. I'll check on that next. Thank you.
Great tips for adjusting the bandsaw, ive had issues and most likely because i grsb the table to move the bandsaw around, ill check it next time i use it Thanks Rob
I thought my bandsaw was just garbage,but I will try this and see if this is the problem. I will be singing your praises if you have saved my saw and thus all the wood that meets the saw!
I have been instructed to center the teeth on the tire hump. That keeps the part of the blade that enters the wood less likely to tilt one way or the other. The trailing half of the blade is unsupported. I don't have trouble with drift if all the bearings and etc. are properly adjusted as well. It certainly could be that other people have luck with alternate placement. I am willing to accept that this dictum is overstated.
Thanks. You have just cured my bandsaw faults!! But as it happens, it was an education to deal with it as it was as now I am expert at guiding the wood by hand! Time to get lazy again. Thanks, a really helpful video.
Aligning the table was so easy and produced such a dramatic improvement. No drift! The miter slot is now useful and I don't have to waste time and wood cutting 2" inch x 30" sticks down the middle to adjust the fence for drift everytime I change blades. Thank you! I can't understand why the owers manual for my Delta 14" bandsaw did not include your instructions. Duh!
Thank you Sir, for this Brilliant explanation. I spent a lot of money on an new bandsaw, because the previous one was giving me an hard time on thicker wood, but I was going crazy, because of the shifting of the blade, to the point that i was not using it anymore. Now i can split 12x12 cm wood like it was done on the table saw!! Thanks again for sharing your precious experience with us.
Thank you! My bandsaw turned over and I have not been able to use it since cause of the drift. I never knew why till now. Saved me from tossing it. Again, THANK YOU!
My 20$ bandsaw is about to be useful. ty sir . Most of it was what i expected but did not realize i needed to put my blade in center for optimal results.
Good tip that the placing of the blade should be centred on the upper wheel. The rest was also good advice of does and don'ts. As a general remark, the table saw blows the band saw away when it comes to making long cuts which must be parallel to the opposing side.
My jaw hit the floor when you said that if the blade is too far front/back that it will drift! Mine likes to slightly drift and it drives me NUTS!! I'm going to have to check my alignment. Totally worth it! Tahnks.
In the first step you tune the tracking of the upper wheel. What do you reference the cut off of if the table has not been squared up yet? Sort of, what came first the chicken or the egg. Love the video. I am currently using the drift adjusted fence method. I want to tune band saw with your method and I am confused how to tune tracking of upper wheel as the first step when I know my fence is adjusted for drift.
In my experience the blade runs more stable and straight if I have the bottom of the gullet at the wheel centerline. Then you don't have to adjust the axial position of the side supports when changing the width of the blade.
I've tried many ways to remove drift but unlike Michael, the one that worked (on advice) was to center the gullet of the tooth, not the blade center. So the blade is slightly further back than shown here. Imagine the stability of a piece of cardboard sheet in the wind. If you hold it in the center or the back it will flutter, only holding it at the front (closest to the source of the wind will you have control. I think that analogy is similar to the forces of the wood (wind) on the blade (cardboard) and how it is supported in the cut. I understand that setting the gullets of the teeth in the center, means the support guides are almost redundant.
@@spudpud-T67I recently bought a 10 inch cheap bandsaw and after watching a dozen videos that mention blade centering, I found your comment and thanks to your analogy I finally understood how it works. Thanks a lot 👍
Mr Fortune, Thank you for your very clear explanation of the long-standing problem I've had with my bandsaw and how to properly cure it. I can't wait to get going. Thanks again.
@@scottturner2529 Hi Scott, The first thing I did was to clear out all the dust and muck then fit a new blade and re-level the table etc. Low and behold it cuts fine and true. To test it I ripped a 5ft piece of 2x1 into two pieces 5ft 1x1 to repair my garden seat slats. Absolutely no probs so I didn't need to offset the workpiece at all. if the blade is worn it seems the best thing is to replace it. I hope you can cure yours, Cheers
Wow, I see everyone else telling me to just reposition the fence, which is just ignoring the issue and now you're saying to position the base, which is the real issue. Thank you for this. What model saw is that? It looks just like mine from the back.
That looks like a Rigid BS14000 as I own. My fence is different though. I really want to thank you for your excellent presentation as even I can understand it.
That was helpful! I've been skewing the fence this way and that to avoid snagging up on the blade. Never occurred to me to align the table. Thanks so much for this tip.
I am working on eliminating drift on my Laguna. I have watched some videos that say to put the deepest part of the gullet on the crown of the wheel. While that makes sense I am not curious as to your method. Thoughts?
Michael, thank you thank you THANK YOU. I have had my saw for 20+ years and it never cut straight. I spent days fiddling with it years ago and came to the conclusion it was just how it was. It never made sense to me. It is a mechanical system. If the wheels are true, then the blade HAS to cut straight! You know what it was. The table mounts. For the first time EVER, my saw cuts as it was designed. I can't believe the number of people that have elaborate processes to adjust your work to a misadjusted table. Again, thank you. This bothered me every single time I used the saw and hence, I didn't use it very often. I feel like I just got a new tool!
Very good instructions. A good teacher speaks slowly with only the words needed to convey one’s information. Only a handful of good teachers out there. At least on TH-cam. Much appreciated lesson. Fortunately my issue today was only realigning my fence with the mitre slot.
Yes, very well spoken video, but for me it would be too long until I changed the speed to 1.25x.
The best bandsaw guidance I have ever heard. Your advice solved years of recurring problems. I now live by this advice!
In all these years I've owned and used a band saw, I never realized you could adjust the table alignment to the blade! Thank you FWW for this video.
This should be the 1st video every bandsaw owner watches to get started! Very good info and I had mine running like a charm in no time.
I've been in class with Michael fortune and Marc Adams woodworking School in Indianapolis. Excellent instructor very knowledgeable in all aspects of fine woodworking. This video on setting up a bandsaw is the only one you need
I am a beginner with wood working and enjoy milling my own boards from small logs. This makes so much more sense than adjusting your fence for drift. I will do this first thing tomorrow. It will make my current project and future projects so much easier. Thanks a million!
Thanks for the help. I’ve been trying to dial mine in and failing for a month. I’ll shake you hand and thank you Sir. I appreciate the schooling you just gave me. And will use it from now on.
Every owner of a bandsaw needs to watch this. Thanks Michael 👍
I have watched so many videos on bandsaw set ups and you are the first to mention table alignment, I have moved my saw several times and sometimes held the table not knowing this can cause problems, I'm very grateful to you for taking the time to share your knowledge, can't thank you enough 😊
I have had nothing but frustration trying to re-saw with my bandsaw for years. I had tried every other solution I watched on TH-cam .
This, my friend, absolutely solved my problem. I can't thank you enough for this solution . It works like a charm now.
Did you try what Mr snodgrass said regarding blade drift? He said to put the hollow part of the teeth on the centerline of the top wheel. Don’t worry about the bottom wheel. Be sure to watch his videos
I have been struggling with an old bandsaw I bought from my father 6 years ago, and have tried all the “tricks” I have seen online. Nothing seemed to “Fix” the drift. Until NOW. Thank you for a very informative video. My saw now cuts straight and true. DC
I messed up my bandsaw (dumb mistake) and was having a hard time getting it to cut properly again. Watched a lot of videos and this one enabled me to solve all the problems. Thanks very much!
I've been suffering for month to get a straight cut, so this is the salvation. Bless this master for sharing the knowledge.
My new bandsaw drifts like crazy so I head to youtube for help. 10+ videos later, all showing different and conflicting methods, I'm no wiser. I'll try each setup in turn and hope for the best.
Extremely well explained and demonstrated. Some of the best advice for setting up a bandsaw I've seen. I'm glad I stumbled into this video .... Cheers!!
Michael Fortune is a master. Years ago I read an article by him in Fine Woodworking explaining how to set up a bandsaw. I hated my bandsaw until I followed his suggestions in the article. My saw has worked perfectly for years. I love to use it. The blade he uses most is a 1/2" skip toothed 3" T.P. I. Thank you Michael.
Do you recall what issue of FWW Fortune's article was in? Thanks.
robeb4 I still have the article. I will find it and let you know.
robeb4 it is Fine Woodworking special issue “Tune Up Your Tools 2011. Article is titled “ Soup up your bandsaw by Michael Fortune
If you are unable to get the article I could copy and Mail to you. Bob
@@robd7703 Thanks, Bob. I'm going to first try reorienting my bandsaw table per Fortune's suggestion in the video, and if that doesn't work, will take you up on your offer to mail me a copy of Fortune's article.
This is the best video that I have found on fixing band saw blade drift. Other videos have you adjust the fence to correct for drift. But this is a symptom of the problem. The cause is really the table misalignment to the blade.
I've had drift problem with my bandsaw since I got it. Your solution is very practical. Only took a few minutes & noe blade drift is a thing of the past. Plus, the fence remains parallel to the miter slots. Thank you very much for this video.
A search brought me here. Thanks Michael. The Rikon now resaws straight. No more cutting wedges. Great video. JimE
As a novice, [at 74] with a bandsaw, this is most educational, and helpful.
Thank you.
PROBLEM SOLVED !!!!
Thank you for making this video.... such a commonsense thing to do that wasn't even on my radar with a bandsaw.
I had always been told to set my blade gullet on the centerline... I know have it set per your instruction and my cuts have been spot on with no drift or wander.
You are much appreciated !!
I just bought a used Jet 14" bandsaw that I am having to set up as if it were new out of the box. EVERYTHING is out of alignment. No wonder the fellow sold it! This video deals with an issue I have not seen anywhere else. Thank you so very much!
A great common sense approach, where you have identified and fixed the actual problem. Thank you.
I took a band saw class with Michael as the instructor very nice person and a master woodworker
I’m 76…never have I seen a
bandsaw lesson in how to properly align a bandsaw so thoroughly…atta boy and thank you!😊
Great instructional video & most appreciated. Just bought a new small Porter Cable & I saw on its reviews to watch your video. Certainly glad I did. Nothing like a professional with years of experience educating us lesser knowledgeable in the proper set up rather than bashing the equipment. Subscribed, hope to learn to become a friend of wood rather than what I've suffered with through the years. Thank you!
In addition to getting the blade exactly centered on the upper wheel, I have found that tightening the tension until the blade when plucked makes a musical note also helps to get a straight cut. I have resawed maple to 1/16 using these two things and a homemade resaw fence (clamped to the table like that guy from Ft Bragg describes in his book). I never use the fence guides on the table.
Thank you for the great explanations. I will never again turn the bandsaw around using those convenient handles, lol.
I also like having the bandsaw blade length on the top wheel door and the Allen key held handy with the magnet on the back.
You made a subscriber out of me. Thanks again for taking the time to share this information.
Finally! A guy that also realizes having the guides close to the work will help with drift! AND, it's a huge help in the safety department! Having been a toolmaker for 40+ years, always taught to set the upper guide within 1/8 of an inch above the workpiece. If you think about that, that won't allow room for your finger to get through there. It also helps keep that blade straight! So many bandsaw videos I watch, invariably they have the upper guide like 2 inches above the work... bad choice....
When "centering" do you do it with the drift control knob?
I always thought that I should check table/blade alignment every time I changed the blade. Thanks for making my life more simple.
Great tutorial. I especially like the fact you pointed out about using the Miter gauge and slot. I am going to try and write this up so that I can print it out and keep it with my saw for future reference/generations.
Thanks Michael. Never had such a clear explanation and nobody seems to talk about table alignment. Merry Christmas.
Watched this video yesterday before re-sawing some nice 2" x 5" hard maple that I plan to use for a furniture project and am I ever glad I did!!! I started cutting and within the first two inches, the blade drifted 1/4" away from the fence. By the way, this is a new saw that I had only cut a couple of pieces on until now. So, I backed it out and set the blade back to the center of the upper wheel as you said. I tried a sacrificial piece and couldn't believe the difference. Started over (after a few corrective moves...) and the saw ran straight and true for the remaining 8 feet of maple. Then I did the second piece and achieved the same results. Thanks so much for a great tip, I'm already passing it on to other woodworkers that I know!!!
Had my ssw since about 2005 and never understood that this was how you square up the cuts. Going to do this today!
I had read somewhere that the blade itself can cause the cut to be off. When the blade is made the set of the teeth are not perfectly symmetrical from right/left. Whichever tooth is further out from center will be the way the cut will pull. It made sense to me and I simply left it at that. Too align the blade you would draw a straight line on a board from end to end and have one jointed edge. Freehand the cut until you could cut without adjusting. Stop the saw and draw a reference line on the table with the jointed edge. Then you would use this line to measure from to clamp a fence. I am going to try this method. This sounds good and makes perfect sense. Thank you for sharing this.
Thanks. Someone else’s video suggested having the back of the blade gullet ride the center of the tire, but after watching your explanation I can now understand why the work piece was drifting to one side. Time to go make some adjustments and see how it goes.
Michael, brilliant video made a lot of sense to me I've been struggling with mine for a few days now so I tested out your method I would just like to say you are a wizard thank you, John
that table adjustment tip is something I never heard of, good info! thnx
Wow, this solved my problem with my Grizzly G0555. There are a lot of guides around to fix drift, but before you do anything else, start with this step. I wonder why manufacturers don't cover this properly in set up procedures. Thanks for posting
Just bought a bandsaw and I appreciate the information
I just bought a Shop Fox a few weeks ago. So glad this came up in my list of videos.
Great information, I’ve watched six others correct for drift, no one came close to this perfect setup video! Well done!
how do u figure this?? the tip of teeth are supposed to be in middle line of wheel he has his teeth in the wrong position also the adjustment of the blade should be low to the wood ,
@@cheeesefunnel I've tried many ways to remove drift but unlike Michael, the one that worked (on advice) was to center the gullet of the tooth, not the blade center. So the blade is slightly further back than shown here.
Imagine the stability of a piece of cardboard sheet in the wind. If you hold it in the center or the back it will flutter, only holding it at the front (closest to the source of the wind will you have control. I think that analogy is similar to the forces of the wood (wind) on the blade (cardboard) and how it is supported in the cut. I understand that setting the gullets of the teeth in the center, means the support guides are almost redundant.
Thank you for this! My bandsaw (90’s made Delta) will not allow any blade to be aligned with back of gullet in line with center of wheel. Ive replaced many parts chasing this issue and haven’t had any luck. I was convinced this was my issue with resaw cuts and it is as simple as this! Thank you so much again!
Thank you for such a simple and clear guide to set up my bandsaw, now it is running really well! 👌
Thanks, Michael and FWW. This is a great video. Owners of a SHOPSMITH bandsaw need to be aware that their saw is unique in that there is no adjustment for blade tracking. The saw is designed so that every blade runs near the back of the wheel and against a pair of "Auto-Track" bearings that are in the arm of the saw. Likewise, the backup bearings below and above the table aren't adjustable forward and back because they don't need to be; all blades run to the back and against the bottom bearing, and if the saw is properly aligned, just ahead of the upper bearing. It's pretty sweet, actually. Scott
I just realized why my bandsaw is cutting crooked. Thanks so much for your video, it is most helpful!
Thank you very much for your great tip on tuning my purchased used DW876, I had to disassemble it entirely for a complete overhaul and now that it is like new I have tuned it following your advice.
Best regards, take care of yourself and long live your chain !!!
Alain from Switzerland
I've seen a *lot* of videos on setting up a band saw, and not one of them has addressed this issue. A big kudos, sir, and well deserved.
I'm out to the shop now to check and if need be, adjust the bandsaw tables, thank you for such valuable information!
WOW! What a terrific video and absolutely dead-on as to what I needed. Yep, I've been my bandsaw as described, not realizing the problem which might arise.
Thank you for your expertise!
This is the clearest and easiest I've seen/heard it done, Thanks Michael.
Natural ASMR
Really?? Uhh.. this, uhh.. this here, uhh was the uhh clearest uhh you’ve ever uhh.. uhh, you’ve uhh, ever heard? Wow
@@101411726 don’t be an idiot/critic. The content shared is very helpful on this topic. If your not an expert and have ever dealt with this problem it is good to have an expert show you how to fix it. He did that very well. I’ve been frustrated with my band saw and picked up a lot from this that solved the problems.
@@joed1901 watch bandsaw set up from Alex snodgrass. THAT is the clearest, and hands down, the best bandsaw set up video/explanation you will ever watch.
Then watch this video again, and you’ll see why this is a terrible explanation and his commentary is absolutely uhh... awful. 🙄
My bandsaw sits idle in the corner because it doesn’t track true. I’ll set it up accordingly now thanks to your video 👍
Mr. Fortune, I centered my blade like you said, clamped a temporary fence parallel to the miter slot and cut straight halfway through a board. I flipped it end over end and cut from the other side and you can hardly tell where they met. My table was already correct but my blades were always centered over the gullet. Thank you so much.
I've tried many ways to remove drift but unlike Michael, the one that worked (on advice) was to center the gullet of the tooth, not the blade center. So the blade is slightly further back than shown here.
Imagine the stability of a piece of cardboard sheet in the wind. If you hold it in the center or the back it will flutter, only holding it at the front (closest to the source of the wind will you have control. I think that analogy is similar to the forces of the wood (wind) on the blade (cardboard) and how it is supported in the cut. I understand that setting the gullets of the teeth in the center, means the support guides are almost redundant.
I have the piece drifting away from the fence. Now thanks to you, I can address this issue. Thanks
Best explanation ever!
And the first guy not playing with saw band guidance only!
Thanks and greets from Germany 👍
But excuse me, I have to go to my workshop now, checking my table angle 😊
Thank you , thank you. I have taken the time to align everything on the bandsaw, but it was still not cutting straight. This is really good information. I have ordered a carbide teeth blade, since the teeth are larger than the blade, it also helps this issue.
I have been having tracking issues with my small band saw, and thought it was the quality of the saw or maybe a blade adjustment, or even cheap blades. But never thought of how out of square the table is to the actual blade itself. I'll check on that next. Thank you.
"...Never move the bandsaw by the bandsaw table." Wow! never would have thought (seriously). Great tip....wonderful video. Thank you!!!
Now I know why the blade walks the wood away from the fence on my band saw !!!!!!!!! Thank you!!
Very nicely explained with good camera work.
Great tips for adjusting the bandsaw, ive had issues and most likely because i grsb the table to move the bandsaw around, ill check it next time i use it
Thanks
Rob
Great info Michael, I'm looking forward to finally solving the drift problem with my new Laguna 14/12 saw.
Thank you, this is exactly what my bandsaw is doing, this video was very helpful.
Michale Fortune is the go to guy for bandsaw wizardry. Pay attention; he's been doing it a LONG time and has a lot more than this video to learn from.
I thought my bandsaw was just garbage,but I will try this and see if this is the problem. I will be singing your praises if you have saved my saw and thus all the wood that meets the saw!
I have been instructed to center the teeth on the tire hump. That keeps the part of the blade that enters the wood less likely to tilt one way or the other. The trailing half of the blade is unsupported. I don't have trouble with drift if all the bearings and etc. are properly adjusted as well. It certainly could be that other people have luck with alternate placement. I am willing to accept that this dictum is overstated.
My first job this weekend, thank you so much!
Good intel!!! My old Delta 14 probably needs this attention!!!
I just did the adjustment and got a straight rip cut using the fence that was about as good as my table saw! Thank you!
Excellent information! I had not seen this solution explained anywhere before! Thank you!!!
Thanks. You have just cured my bandsaw faults!! But as it happens, it was an education to deal with it as it was as now I am expert at guiding the wood by hand! Time to get lazy again. Thanks, a really helpful video.
Aligning the table was so easy and produced such a dramatic improvement. No drift! The miter slot is now useful and I don't have to waste time and wood cutting 2" inch x 30" sticks down the middle to adjust the fence for drift everytime I change blades. Thank you! I can't understand why the owers manual for my Delta 14" bandsaw did not include your instructions. Duh!
Thank you Sir, for this Brilliant explanation. I spent a lot of money on an new bandsaw, because the previous one was giving me an hard time on thicker wood, but I was going crazy, because of the shifting of the blade, to the point that i was not using it anymore. Now i can split 12x12 cm wood like it was done on the table saw!! Thanks again for sharing your precious experience with us.
Thank you! My bandsaw turned over and I have not been able to use it since cause of the drift. I never knew why till now. Saved me from tossing it. Again, THANK YOU!
Thank you for this video. Saw is running great now, plus I forms my 10mm socket!
I am a beginner with the band saw, it's the best I've watched. I thought the table may have something to do with running off track a the bottom.
Great video. U might have just solved my problem with my extremely cheap tiny band saw. Thanks
My 20$ bandsaw is about to be useful. ty sir . Most of it was what i expected but did not realize i needed to put my blade in center for optimal results.
Very good explanation. I need to align my bandsaw, the wood is pulling away from the fence as you just showed. Thanks.
Really useful, I had no idea that was the problem. I shall go out to my shed today! Thanks!
Good tip that the placing of the blade should be centred on the upper wheel. The rest was also good advice of does and don'ts.
As a general remark, the table saw blows the band saw away when it comes to making long cuts which must be parallel to the opposing side.
@Crustyoldfart, more than twice the cut height and half the kerf width is what motivates me to use a bandsaw.
My jaw hit the floor when you said that if the blade is too far front/back that it will drift! Mine likes to slightly drift and it drives me NUTS!! I'm going to have to check my alignment. Totally worth it! Tahnks.
In the first step you tune the tracking of the upper wheel. What do you reference the cut off of if the table has not been squared up yet? Sort of, what came first the chicken or the egg. Love the video. I am currently using the drift adjusted fence method. I want to tune band saw with your method and I am confused how to tune tracking of upper wheel as the first step when I know my fence is adjusted for drift.
This was explained better than anyone else. Thanks 🙏 for the info.
In my experience the blade runs more stable and straight if I have the bottom of the gullet at the wheel centerline.
Then you don't have to adjust the axial position of the side supports when changing the width of the blade.
That was the way I understood it.
I've tried many ways to remove drift but unlike Michael, the one that worked (on advice) was to center the gullet of the tooth, not the blade center. So the blade is slightly further back than shown here.
Imagine the stability of a piece of cardboard sheet in the wind. If you hold it in the center or the back it will flutter, only holding it at the front (closest to the source of the wind will you have control. I think that analogy is similar to the forces of the wood (wind) on the blade (cardboard) and how it is supported in the cut. I understand that setting the gullets of the teeth in the center, means the support guides are almost redundant.
@@spudpud-T67I recently bought a 10 inch cheap bandsaw and after watching a dozen videos that mention blade centering, I found your comment and thanks to your analogy I finally understood how it works. Thanks a lot 👍
Mr Fortune, Thank you for your very clear explanation of the long-standing problem I've had with my bandsaw and how to properly cure it. I can't wait to get going. Thanks again.
Sid Stephenson did it work? I’ve tried it and can’t get a clean rip
@@scottturner2529 Hi Scott, The first thing I did was to clear out all the dust and muck then fit a new blade and re-level the table etc. Low and behold it cuts fine and true. To test it I ripped a 5ft piece of 2x1 into two pieces 5ft 1x1 to repair my garden seat slats. Absolutely no probs so I didn't need to offset the workpiece at all. if the blade is worn it seems the best thing is to replace it. I hope you can cure yours, Cheers
Wow, I see everyone else telling me to just reposition the fence, which is just ignoring the issue and now you're saying to position the base, which is the real issue. Thank you for this. What model saw is that? It looks just like mine from the back.
Thanks. I have been struggling with this problem ever since I got my bandsaw and could never work out how to fix it.
This was an amazingly useful and informative video, thanks so much for putting this together!
That looks like a Rigid BS14000 as I own. My fence is different though. I really want to thank you for your excellent presentation as even I can understand it.
Great video, thank you very much! After years of trying to fix this…. Now I know why the piece I’m cutting will not stay against the fence!
Excellent video. I had no idea that could happen and how to fix it. Thank you.
That was helpful! I've been skewing the fence this way and that to avoid snagging up on the blade. Never occurred to me to align the table. Thanks so much for this tip.
I am working on eliminating drift on my Laguna. I have watched some videos that say to put the deepest part of the gullet on the crown of the wheel. While that makes sense I am not curious as to your method. Thoughts?
Superb tutorial, Thanks.
I need to do this to an old Dewalt bandsaw I have in my garage.
Excellent tutorial, thank you for going to the trouble of making it.
Mr. Fortune, what fence system is on that Ridgid bandsaw and what brand and type of blade is that? blades do you use. Thanks.
A LOT of useful information I did not know! Thank you