How to eliminate drift from your bandsaw
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- A sharp blade isn't the only answer to bandsaw drift. In this video Michael Fortune shows you two fixes to make your saw run true. For more information: bit.ly/2BxbKWN
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Michael, thank you thank you THANK YOU. I have had my saw for 20+ years and it never cut straight. I spent days fiddling with it years ago and came to the conclusion it was just how it was. It never made sense to me. It is a mechanical system. If the wheels are true, then the blade HAS to cut straight! You know what it was. The table mounts. For the first time EVER, my saw cuts as it was designed. I can't believe the number of people that have elaborate processes to adjust your work to a misadjusted table. Again, thank you. This bothered me every single time I used the saw and hence, I didn't use it very often. I feel like I just got a new tool!
Centering the blade on the wheel is not correct. You should center the deepest part of the gullet on the center of the wheel. 😁👍🏻
I disagree with the placement of the blade to wheel positioning. I have found if you center the gullet of the blade in the center of the upper wheel, the blade WILL NOT trac. ( The gullet) for those who may not know is the deepest part of the teeth. In other words the back end of the teeth. If you line that up in the center of the wheel I promise you, it will not trac. Just sayin. Try Alex Snodgrass.
In all these years I've owned and used a band saw, I never realized you could adjust the table alignment to the blade! Thank you FWW for this video.
Every owner of a bandsaw needs to watch this. Thanks Michael 👍
Actually if you centre the blade with the deepest part of the gully of the teeth in the middle of the top wheel that’s the correct place if all other guides are set correctly. You will eliminate all drift by setting the blades correctly and never align the top wheel directly above the bottom wheel. That’s not how they are designed to be used. If you talk to a band saw manufacturer they will confirm the blade alignment for your specific machine.
Interesting... the advice on centering the blade is completely contrary to what I've seen in other videos, they say that the back of the gullet is the part that must be centered on the wheel..
Bad tip !! The Gullet of the blade should be on the center of the wheel !! That in itself maybe the cause of your drifting !
Every blade wears at a different rate (or sharper) on both sides that's what pulls the cut to one side. Never move the table !! ... just align the fence to the cutting angle as the blade wears, I've been resawing exotic hard woods for years.
I am a beginner with wood working and enjoy milling my own boards from small logs. This makes so much more sense than adjusting your fence for drift. I will do this first thing tomorrow. It will make my current project and future projects so much easier. Thanks a million!
In addition to getting the blade exactly centered on the upper wheel, I have found that tightening the tension until the blade when plucked makes a musical note also helps to get a straight cut. I have resawed maple to 1/16 using these two things and a homemade resaw fence (clamped to the table like that guy from Ft Bragg describes in his book). I never use the fence guides on the table.
In my experience the blade runs more stable and straight if I have the bottom of the gullet at the wheel centerline.
Then you don't have to adjust the axial position of the side supports when changing the width of the blade.
That was the way I understood it.
I've tried many ways to remove drift but unlike Michael, the one that worked (on advice) was to center the gullet of the tooth, not the blade center. So the blade is slightly further back than shown here.
Imagine the stability of a piece of cardboard sheet in the wind. If you hold it in the center or the back it will flutter, only holding it at the front (closest to the source of the wind will you have control. I think that analogy is similar to the forces of the wood (wind) on the blade (cardboard) and how it is supported in the cut. I understand that setting the gullets of the teeth in the center, means the support guides are almost redundant.
This should be the 1st video every bandsaw owner watches to get started! Very good info and I had mine running like a charm in no time.
My bandsaw sits idle in the corner because it doesn’t track true. I’ll set it up accordingly now thanks to your video 👍
Follow Alex Snodgrass TH-cam for the only way to set your bandsaw.
that table adjustment tip is something I never heard of, good info! thnx
Thanks, Michael and FWW. This is a great video. Owners of a SHOPSMITH bandsaw need to be aware that their saw is unique in that there is no adjustment for blade tracking. The saw is designed so that every blade runs near the back of the wheel and against a pair of "Auto-Track" bearings that are in the arm of the saw. Likewise, the backup bearings below and above the table aren't adjustable forward and back because they don't need to be; all blades run to the back and against the bottom bearing, and if the saw is properly aligned, just ahead of the upper bearing. It's pretty sweet, actually. Scott
My local Woodcraft store says to line the gullet of the tooth, with the center of the blade
When "centering" do you do it with the drift control knob?
Great tutorial. I especially like the fact you pointed out about using the Miter gauge and slot. I am going to try and write this up so that I can print it out and keep it with my saw for future reference/generations.
I have been struggling with an old bandsaw I bought from my father 6 years ago, and have tried all the “tricks” I have seen online. Nothing seemed to “Fix” the drift. Until NOW. Thank you for a very informative video. My saw now cuts straight and true. DC
My new bandsaw drifts like crazy so I head to youtube for help. 10+ videos later, all showing different and conflicting methods, I'm no wiser. I'll try each setup in turn and hope for the best.
Extremely well explained and demonstrated. Some of the best advice for setting up a bandsaw I've seen. I'm glad I stumbled into this video .... Cheers!!
I've been suffering for month to get a straight cut, so this is the salvation. Bless this master for sharing the knowledge.
Thank you for such a simple and clear guide to set up my bandsaw, now it is running really well! 👌
Thanks for the help. I’ve been trying to dial mine in and failing for a month. I’ll shake you hand and thank you Sir. I appreciate the schooling you just gave me. And will use it from now on.
Had my ssw since about 2005 and never understood that this was how you square up the cuts. Going to do this today!
I have been instructed to center the teeth on the tire hump. That keeps the part of the blade that enters the wood less likely to tilt one way or the other. The trailing half of the blade is unsupported. I don't have trouble with drift if all the bearings and etc. are properly adjusted as well. It certainly could be that other people have luck with alternate placement. I am willing to accept that this dictum is overstated.
Finally! A guy that also realizes having the guides close to the work will help with drift! AND, it's a huge help in the safety department! Having been a toolmaker for 40+ years, always taught to set the upper guide within 1/8 of an inch above the workpiece. If you think about that, that won't allow room for your finger to get through there. It also helps keep that blade straight! So many bandsaw videos I watch, invariably they have the upper guide like 2 inches above the work... bad choice....
But others say to line up the blades tooth gully to the center of the wheel?
Snodgrass teaches that...
Gullet
Incorrect this is where the drift starts.
That is how I have always set mine up. However I have never been able to eliminate the blade drift. I look forward to trying this method.
Best explanation ever!
And the first guy not playing with saw band guidance only!
Thanks and greets from Germany 👍
But excuse me, I have to go to my workshop now, checking my table angle 😊
The alignment as described is for bandsaws with a slight rise in the middle if the wheels otherwise referred to as a crown. Not all bandsaws have that design. I have a European bandsaw with flat wheels. Only narrow blades are centered. Wide blades for resawing have the saw tooth set beyond the front edge of the rubber tire. I would suggest to read the bandsaw manufacturer manual for proper set up and not the instructions that come with a blade. Just my 2 cents.
This is the clearest and easiest I've seen/heard it done, Thanks Michael.
Natural ASMR
Really?? Uhh.. this, uhh.. this here, uhh was the uhh clearest uhh you’ve ever uhh.. uhh, you’ve uhh, ever heard? Wow
@@101411726 don’t be an idiot/critic. The content shared is very helpful on this topic. If your not an expert and have ever dealt with this problem it is good to have an expert show you how to fix it. He did that very well. I’ve been frustrated with my band saw and picked up a lot from this that solved the problems.
@@joed1901 watch bandsaw set up from Alex snodgrass. THAT is the clearest, and hands down, the best bandsaw set up video/explanation you will ever watch.
Then watch this video again, and you’ll see why this is a terrible explanation and his commentary is absolutely uhh... awful. 🙄
I messed up my bandsaw (dumb mistake) and was having a hard time getting it to cut properly again. Watched a lot of videos and this one enabled me to solve all the problems. Thanks very much!
PROBLEM SOLVED !!!!
Thank you for making this video.... such a commonsense thing to do that wasn't even on my radar with a bandsaw.
I had always been told to set my blade gullet on the centerline... I know have it set per your instruction and my cuts have been spot on with no drift or wander.
You are much appreciated !!
Michael Fortune is a master. Years ago I read an article by him in Fine Woodworking explaining how to set up a bandsaw. I hated my bandsaw until I followed his suggestions in the article. My saw has worked perfectly for years. I love to use it. The blade he uses most is a 1/2" skip toothed 3" T.P. I. Thank you Michael.
Do you recall what issue of FWW Fortune's article was in? Thanks.
robeb4 I still have the article. I will find it and let you know.
robeb4 it is Fine Woodworking special issue “Tune Up Your Tools 2011. Article is titled “ Soup up your bandsaw by Michael Fortune
If you are unable to get the article I could copy and Mail to you. Bob
@@robd7703 Thanks, Bob. I'm going to first try reorienting my bandsaw table per Fortune's suggestion in the video, and if that doesn't work, will take you up on your offer to mail me a copy of Fortune's article.
Plllleeeeeeezzzz.... keep this man! He's the PERFECT SLEEPING DRAUGHT! The cost of medication? Cut in half! (At least).
I am working on eliminating drift on my Laguna. I have watched some videos that say to put the deepest part of the gullet on the crown of the wheel. While that makes sense I am not curious as to your method. Thoughts?
I just bought a really nice old Grizzly G1073 16" bandsaw. Man is that sucker heavy, and man oh gees did I yank it this way and that into its new position by heaving and hauling on the table and the two arms sticking out from it. Why wouldn't you use them? There is nothing else to hold onto!
Now I know why the blade walks the wood away from the fence on my band saw !!!!!!!!! Thank you!!
Ok, I'm confused. Almost every other bandsaw person I watched said DON'T put the blade in the center of the upper wheel, but put the 'gullet' of the tooth in the center of the wheel.
Good intel!!! My old Delta 14 probably needs this attention!!!
You reminded this newbie to check guide-bar height. It was fully Up and out of sight even though I've been cutting all day. My bad.
Never used a table slot on a bandsaw. My resaw fence, I made doesn't use the table slot. The 36" bandsaw where I worked didn't have table slots. After 40 years in my trade and at home of using a bandsaw I never found a table slot necessary.
This works. I’ve tried the Alex Snodgrass method but found that it only works with one width of blade, and other saw/blade combinations do not work. I’ve tried this method and it seems to work on any combination of blade and saw.
Bottom line is you need the blade and the fence to be exactly parallel with the miter slot.
Very good explanation. I need to align my bandsaw, the wood is pulling away from the fence as you just showed. Thanks.
I was shocked when he stopped his cut and removed his grip on the wood while the bandsaw was still running. Being a table saw user most of my career and seldom a bandsaw user you can probably understand my concern. Then I thought to myself, where’s the wood gonna go ? 😂
First mistake: centering blade on wheel . Wheel is crowned, centering the blade on the crown places the blade gullet forward of the support point on wheel. This creates a pivot point aft of the cutting part of the blade. Result is that the blade will float causing drift. Gullet alignment should be on the crown thus supporting the cutting operation of the blade.
To eliminate drift.. the best way is don’t use it. This is the least used piece of equipment in my shop…I regret buying it I should have
Purchase a lathe or drill press instead…Band saw use is over hyped in my view
That is why you have drift on your bandsaw, your blade is totally in the wrong place, by putting your blade in the middle of the wheel, the back of your saw tooth must be in the middle of the wheel. Otherwise you are setting up for bladedrift
My bandsaw isn't fixed down to the standard it's on so the only way I can move the bandsaw around is by grabing hold of the stand, but great video thanks. Martin in the UK 🇬🇧
Great information, I’ve watched six others correct for drift, no one came close to this perfect setup video! Well done!
how do u figure this?? the tip of teeth are supposed to be in middle line of wheel he has his teeth in the wrong position also the adjustment of the blade should be low to the wood ,
@@cheeesefunnel I've tried many ways to remove drift but unlike Michael, the one that worked (on advice) was to center the gullet of the tooth, not the blade center. So the blade is slightly further back than shown here.
Imagine the stability of a piece of cardboard sheet in the wind. If you hold it in the center or the back it will flutter, only holding it at the front (closest to the source of the wind will you have control. I think that analogy is similar to the forces of the wood (wind) on the blade (cardboard) and how it is supported in the cut. I understand that setting the gullets of the teeth in the center, means the support guides are almost redundant.
One eliminates BS drift first by removing the table and centering the blade to the deepest part of the gullet on the center of the top wheel.
Then adjusting side bearings just behind the teeth so that they barely touch the blade without spinning. Do the same to the thrust bearings. Replace table and tension the blade appropriately. Don’t use the settings on the saw. Experienced woodworkers know this. Make sure the fence is parallel to the blade and not the slot.
See Snodgrass online to view demonstration.
I have a craftsman 12 inch bandsaw. Per the manual, to square the blade, I need to adjust with a set scew. However, it does not matter how much I turn this scew I cannot get the blade square with the table, any suggestions?
Thanks. I have been struggling with this problem ever since I got my bandsaw and could never work out how to fix it.
blade drift can be caused by several different factors. these various factors aren't all fixed by adjusting the table or adjusting the wheel. I have had brand new blades drift. the idea of setting the blade to the wheel center works with a perfect blade only. I have found that by adjusting the blade (off centering) to the wheel helps compensate drift. this only helps with blades with moderate drift. I have found the best solution to blade drift is to set the fence to the drift with a simple laser light. I did a video explaining how to set up a laser on any bandsaw and use it to set blade drift in just a couple of seconds. if you get blade drift you should watch my video ("Laser Light on the Bandsaw by OTB Thinker ") on how to easily fix drift. BTW, not all bandsaws tables can be adjusted as you describe. My Powermatic BS has no such adjustment.
I did this on my wen and the blade is drifting hard into the fence. Followed all the steps multiple times. Everything is level/square. Please help
I did this on my wen and the blade is drifting hard into the fence. Followed all the steps multiple times. Everything is level/square. Please help
I just thought bandsaws didn't cut straight... Maybe eating should be my hobby...
Omg I move my band saw as you described all the time ... and now it drifts to the point that it's nearly unusable and I couldn't figured out why. I thought maybe the blade was dull. 😣
Set the gullets of the blade into the center of the top wheel.
Imagine the stability of a piece of cardboard sheet in the wind. If you hold it in the center or the back it will flutter, only holding it at the front (closest to the source of the wind will you have control. I think that analogy is similar to the forces of the wood (wind) on the blade (cardboard) and how it is supported in the cut. Setting the gullets of the teeth in the center of the top wheel means the blade is trailing and you will have control and virtually no wander.
I've been in class with Michael fortune and Marc Adams woodworking School in Indianapolis. Excellent instructor very knowledgeable in all aspects of fine woodworking. This video on setting up a bandsaw is the only one you need
This guy is a wizard.
Thank you for the exceptionally informative video. I’ve learned a whole lot!
Thank you for this. I've been struggling and I see that my table is off almost 1/8 inch front to back!!
I have the same Ridgid bandsaw. I can't center the blade as after a certain point of turning the centering knob, the back side of the upper wheel will scrape against the case. Is this a known issue with this saw or is there potentially a defect with mine?
Thank you , thank you. I have taken the time to align everything on the bandsaw, but it was still not cutting straight. This is really good information. I have ordered a carbide teeth blade, since the teeth are larger than the blade, it also helps this issue.
"...Never move the bandsaw by the bandsaw table." Wow! never would have thought (seriously). Great tip....wonderful video. Thank you!!!
I’m having a tracking problem now…I’ll fix it tomorrow now! Thank you
Many say that you should center the gullets on the wheel, not the blade itself. Do you have any input? Thank you
Wondering the same thing.
Same
Same.
I think that Michael gives you his opinion in the video, he disagrees.
I don't think he addresses the difference in ideas at all. He's just saying what works for him.
Alex Snodgrass is right: you should never have bandsaw drift if the saw is set up properly. And that’s a lot easier to do than this guy is making it out to be
I have had nothing but frustration trying to re-saw with my bandsaw for years. I had tried every other solution I watched on TH-cam .
This, my friend, absolutely solved my problem. I can't thank you enough for this solution . It works like a charm now.
Did you try what Mr snodgrass said regarding blade drift? He said to put the hollow part of the teeth on the centerline of the top wheel. Don’t worry about the bottom wheel. Be sure to watch his videos
Other Pros say the center between the GROUND of the teeth and the back of the blade should be in center of the wheel, and I think thats actually better.
Thank you, this is exactly what my bandsaw is doing, this video was very helpful.
I had read somewhere that the blade itself can cause the cut to be off. When the blade is made the set of the teeth are not perfectly symmetrical from right/left. Whichever tooth is further out from center will be the way the cut will pull. It made sense to me and I simply left it at that. Too align the blade you would draw a straight line on a board from end to end and have one jointed edge. Freehand the cut until you could cut without adjusting. Stop the saw and draw a reference line on the table with the jointed edge. Then you would use this line to measure from to clamp a fence. I am going to try this method. This sounds good and makes perfect sense. Thank you for sharing this.
Thanks for that I just bought a 14 inch lugarno saw and transported it in my wagon noticed the base plate was not square when I unloaded it no wonder with the weight pushing on it while it was lying down in the wagon 😊
And i thought, i was to stupid to use the fence or the saw correctly.
Thank you so much for this explanation 🤘
In the first step you tune the tracking of the upper wheel. What do you reference the cut off of if the table has not been squared up yet? Sort of, what came first the chicken or the egg. Love the video. I am currently using the drift adjusted fence method. I want to tune band saw with your method and I am confused how to tune tracking of upper wheel as the first step when I know my fence is adjusted for drift.
Interesting, placing the centre of the blade on the centreline of the wheel opposite to what has been suggested by others, putting the bottom of gullet on the centreline of the top wheel.
Does the width of the blade make any difference. My saw has a blade approx three eighths of an inch wide.
I have an issue with the saw tracking to the left, I have the blade centre on the top wheel, the blade guides are all in the right place the guide wheels are just behind the blade the table is level the fence is at right angles to the table. Hi have done as you suggest and put the table to the left then the right but no matter what I do it still tracks to the left. What am I doing wrong? Help please.
Good info, just soooo painful to listen to him uh....uh...ummmm...talk.
Par Kan first six minutes of him waxing on and on and on and on and on...... get to the point!!!! Then finally he finally shows you all you need to know in the last 3 minutes of the video.
I was yelling out loud at the video for him to shut the “F” and just “F” in show us. In the end it was some good info !
So if you are cutting a piece of wood freehand so as to to cut a shape and the blade wants to drift to the right it is simply because it is not aligned to the centre of the top wheel??
What about the tension of the blade?
I have the piece drifting away from the fence. Now thanks to you, I can address this issue. Thanks
My saw works not so good. I have never check this. When i stared the saw walk away. Good truck.
I find that if you nick one side of the blade it's wool not run true also. You can resharpen the blades with a dremal too.
Nicely explained.
Excellent information! I had not seen this solution explained anywhere before! Thank you!!!
Thank you for the great explanations. I will never again turn the bandsaw around using those convenient handles, lol.
I also like having the bandsaw blade length on the top wheel door and the Allen key held handy with the magnet on the back.
You made a subscriber out of me. Thanks again for taking the time to share this information.
WRONG!
BANDSAW BLADES ARE NOT SUPPOSED TO BE CENTERED IN THE WHEEL. THIS WHY YOU HAVE PROBLEMS. WHEELS ARE IS CUPPED IN CENTER. BLADE SHOULD BE TO REAR OF WHEEL. READ YOUR DIRECTIONS FROM THE MANUFACTURE!. THEY KNOW THEIR BANDSAW MORE THAN YOU, THEY ENGINEERED IT!!!
The GULLET of the blade should be centered on the upper wheel. The tire is domed so if the center of the blade is on the dome the blade will be able to wander.
I used to use all caps and was berated unmercifully for "SHOUTING"; so I quit. Do you do this frequently and if so do you get berated. Personally I like it.
@@williambranham6249 I'd hard of hearing so it helped.
Very hard to listen to. Should be reading from a script and lots of editing.
I was a little surprised that you never once used the word cattywampus.
Wrinkle was getting a caining....🤣😂😁😀😎
As a novice, [at 74] with a bandsaw, this is most educational, and helpful.
Thank you.
I have been having tracking issues with my small band saw, and thought it was the quality of the saw or maybe a blade adjustment, or even cheap blades. But never thought of how out of square the table is to the actual blade itself. I'll check on that next. Thank you.
Thank You Sir... I wish I had known this years ago....
NO. First, forget the "fixed fence like the one on the table saw. Assume that no two band saw blades will cut exactly the same.Cut a longish scrap piece and center the back of the blade in the kerf.STOP. This the angle you set your blade at. If you want to WASTE TIME and therefore MONEY rotating the table well.... Or just clamp a fence at the angle.NOTE; for re sawing where the guide is high DO NOT push harder than the blade can cut or you will distort the blade and you'll get a bad cut.
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This guy is just um,,, ummm.... Bla ... Blaa ...um ...Bllah boring
My bandsaw doesn’t have the thing to where I can move the table any help
Obviously very knowledgeable and I did get valuable information but I couldn’t make it through the whole video with an incredibly annoying amount of AAH’s and UM’s.
Ok. Go back to learning how to set up tools from people who barely know how to run a bandsaw but wear designer clothes and can read a script.
Noticing all the comments, I'm re-posting this from another comment. Decide for yourselves: th-cam.com/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/w-d-xo.html
I heard a professional teach to align the gullet on the centerline
Why does he remind me of Foghorn leghorn talking?
Hillbilly Buzz I say I say..... stammering and stuttering for the first 6 minutes. And then finally in the last three minutes actually getting to the point and showing us the handy info.