The only 3 bandsaw blades you need
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.พ. 2023
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(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission) - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
*Helical carbide jointer/planer heads from MyWoodCutters:* mywoodcutters.com/
My bandsaw and table saw are from Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywoodworking.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
*Some other useful links:*
-More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/
-Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/
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★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x
-Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M
-Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★
-Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or
-Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz
-Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x
-Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★
-Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8
-Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ
-Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF
-Router: amzn.to/3grD22S
-Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y
-Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm
-Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH
-Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr
-Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ
-Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY
-Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc
-Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★
-Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh
-Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI
-Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl
-Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh
-Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo
-Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq
-ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7
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Stumpy. Your show is on my top list. Your easy voice and clearly spoken. Making people enjoy. Not being spoken at or on. But with. Don’t change a hair not a dot. And this is from a guy 76 years old. Thank YOU.
I totally agree with Patrick Mitchell. Your calm and easy voice is always helpful and a pleasure to listen to. I never watch any of those "You are doing 'X' all wrong" videos. They might as well say "I am better than you. You know nothing and I will show you noobs how to do it the right way." I just don't have time. Thank you for being you!
What Patrick said, from a 70 yr old.
67 here...and totally agree. Im always excited when theres a new video posted. Always things to learn.
Agree
I agree! Stumpy, You should read audiobooks.
I really like Laguna's Resaw King blades. I use the 1 1/4" (2-3 TPI) nearly all of the time and it goes through hardwoods like a hot knife through butter. They're carbide, last a long time and are re-sharpenable. They're not cheap (especially for my 250+ inch blades) but they cut rips and resaw really well (most often oak and walnut for me). They're made in Germany. I can't remember the last time that I bought one because they last that long. Enjoy! And Thanks Stumpy!!!
I assume every one has their favorites and I am no different. Many years ago my wife and I took a 3day Shaker box making class at the Shaker Village in Kentucky. As the result of that class I, of course, became very interested in making a complete set of those boxes and I bought a Minimax 16" .... 12" resaw bandsaw. It's a beast. The individual I worked with on the phone recommended I try Highland Hardware WoodSlicer resaw baldes. I took his reccomendation and ordered a couple. They are not cheap by any means but WOW!! the results were amazing. I barely needed to sand the resawed blanks. I no longer make Shaker Boxes but am a long time woodturner and they, Highland Hardware sold a 3/8" blade the they called the woodturner blade. It was used to cut bowl blanks from logs and it also was a dream to use. I am getting a bit old (83 next month) and am not as active as I once was. Enjoy your channel. Your presentation skills are supurb and you never say "go ahead and...." I thank you for that.
Just got my first bandsaw. Watched a few other videos on choosing proper blades. Wish I would have watched yours first. Clear and to the point. Thank you!
I’ve been happy with timber wolf blades for day to day stuff. For re-sawing I love the Laguna resaw king.
Would love to see you make another video on troubleshooting bandsaw sounds. I've been hearing lately from my saw something that sounds like wind howling or a vacuum moving back and forth. It has taken me SO much time to understand the mechanics of what might be causing it. Seems like the issue may be related to the bearings, but that was a deep rabbit hole I had to go down to figure out--learning how bearings work, what is repacking and how to do it, RPM ratings, etc. Anyway, that video was super helpful and I'd love to see another one like it. Bandsaws aren't something we can just take somewhere to get repaired, so we're left to figure stuff out on our own. It's a complicated machine.
Thank you Stumpy. Once again, no click bait baby. Short concise and exactly the info we need!!!!!!!
Take that diagram you drew, digitally clean it up and organize it better, and sell it printed on a sheet magnet so we can stick it to the side of our bandsaws.
Love your straight forward style and the information. Just bought a bandsaw so this video was very timely. Thank you.
I've had excellent results from the Olson AllPro PGT. Reasonably priced and I have yet to break one. Super sharp and stay that way for a very long time.
Highland woods “wood slicer” is my go to bandsaw blade.
Mine to, smooth fast cut when resawing.
And quiet
Yep. I do mostly resawing of 4/4 or 5/4 stock, anywhere from 4" to 6" wide.
Great tutorial Professor Nubs. Your previous one on this subject got me started with my bandsaw. Thanks as always.
James, I used your other comprehensive bandsaw blade video as a guide when I was buying my blades. Learned a lot from you. Thank you!
The black board is nice. Very easy to see.
Thanks so much for this clear and simple summary. You are such a good teacher
I'm searching for a new band saw blade and this couldn't have come at a better time! thanks!!
Solid suggestions. Those sizes are the ones that I use the most.
Hi Stumpy, thank you for these blade tips, I have been thinking about getting some bandsaw blades for a little while now, I appreciate the detail you give us.
Thanks!!
Wow, nicely distilled information in this video James. Thank you for sharing it. I have had good luck with both Timberwolf and Starrett bandsaw blades.
Nice brief synopsis SN & I totally agree with you about those blades! 👍👍🔨🔨
Another great one. Like many others, I’m sure, I’m going next to your previous, expanded video. Keep ‘em coming!
The 3 blades you mentioned are the ones I have with the exception the are all standard pitch. Yes, I saw your original video and took your advise!
I am really glad that you are doing what you do! When I need ideas or just find out what's up, I come here first. This time, I tried the "slicer" blade. Really a GREAT blade and buy! Thanks
always good information James......just bought a CBN wheel because of you, best thing I have done in years....cheers from an old guy in Central Florida
Another great one Stumpy.. Thanks bud!
Really excellent tips, James! Thanks! 😃
I still don't have a bandsaw, but I definitely want one!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
This is really good information! Thanks for sharing it.
Clear and concise as always. I'm just about to give up on the premises blade's I've been using, I can't seem to get a good one. I've worked through all the tuning I can on my 14" bandsaw but I still get significant drift. I hot blades made up for my 10" because the blade length was odd and I couldn't get them at my local tool store, this used to drift too but with the made to order blades it cuts straight as a die but obviously the resaw capacity is very small
I have a cheap WEN 10" bandsaw that drifted so bad it was unusable. I was thinking of replacing it with a better-quality bandsaw but my basement height is very restrictive. I tried adjusting it every which way possible but it had no impact on the drift. I finally decided on replacing the blade and to my surprise it now cuts fine...well as fine as a WEN 10" bandsaw can. :-) It turned out to be a warped blade. I could not tell by looking at it that anything was wrong but once I put in the replacement it was like night and day!!
Thanks James, enjoyed the tutorial. Fred.
Thanks for this, super helpful!
Thanks for this one, buddy!
Doc Hamilton nice job with great detail. My Woodcraft sells Starrett, really like them.
Highland Woodworking sells a blade that is geared more towards Woodturners and is intended for cutting green (wet) wood blanks for turning. I have used them in the past as that is what the majority of my woodworking consists of is turning and they are great.
Got my resaw blades for Highland and I love them too
Thank you for the update
I've had good luck with Lenox Diemaster blades for general woodworkign , but My Laguna Resaw King is fabulous for resaw - worth the $$. I have a 1/2" one for my 14" Rikon bandsaw. I recently resawed 8" wide Jatoba with it, bimetal resw blade could not cut into in more than an inch as the wood is just so hard and dense, the Reaw King had no problems just needed a slow feed rate.
Awesome video thank you sir.
All your video is awesome thanks for sharing this great idea 💡 😀 👍
I buy rolls of flex back blade from Germany for like $1 per foot. Then braze them to length for my 3 bandsaws…costs %60 less than buying standard blades and never had one break where I joined them (30+ blades) Can sharpen them with a dremmel 2-3 times too.
Another great video with great tip thanks
Love your work 👍
Most of the time, I am cutting out bowl blanks for my lathes. I am lucky to have a local shop that makes the blades. A friend suggested that I go in to them and tell them what I do. They suggested the Lennox diemaster bimetal blade. Best tip for bandsaws I ever got. You commented that the bimetal blades are mostly used for metal cutting. Those blades do have a different set to the teeth. One use is for the pallet cutting blades. The bimetal has no problems with nails. Same with the wood cutting ones. They cut far longer and straighter than the other ones out there. I use the 1/2 inch by 3 tpi blades, and the thicker ones. They can be resharpened a number of times. I am lucky to have a saw shop that will do that for me, and reset the teeth. They may cost more, but they last a lot longer, and I mean a LOT longer. On my big saw, which I cut slabs with, I use a 1 1/4 inch blade with teeth at 3/4 inch. They told me at the shop that carbide blades are for cutting veneers. I did try one, and it didn't last any longer than the bimetal blade, but it did leave a lot cleaner surface.
Great info...thank you!
Great info, thanks!
Very useful video
I just bought a Harvey C14 and I just watched your older band saw blade video. Such good fortune to catch this update!! Love what you do, James!! Cheers and I can't wait to fire up my new C14!!
I'm a big fan of Carter blades check out Alex Snodgrass es Chanel for more information
I'm in the market for a bandsaw and Harvey will be the one I purchase, just can't decide between the C14 and the HW615P. I'm having a hard time seeing the value in the HW615P. It looks like it's only got a taller fence, larger table and bigger flywheel. Is there any reason you whish you'd have purchased the HW615P, or are you completely satisfied with the C14?
@@petenelson8136 I saw your unanswered question and thought I'd chime in. I bought the Harvey C14 about a year ago. I haven't been disappointed. I don't see the value of the added $550 either for a 5" bigger table, the higher fence, an extra 1" fly wheel, or the extra 91 pounds. I can make an auxiliary fence or bigger table if I really need it. I'll say the C14 has plenty of power and all the features I need. I'm extremely happy with it. The biggest thing I had to get used to was remembering to re-tension the blade before use. My previous band saw didn't have that feature and I love that it's there since I've read that it helps preserve blade life.
@@sandmandave2008 Thanks for answering back on this. Good to hear your happy with it. I got my new shop wired for it, so just waiting to get moved in, hopefully in a couple of weeks. Painters just finished up yesterday (they'll need to come back for some touch-up), and still some plumbing (countertops in yesterday), electrical and the garage concrete pad to pour (the one outside). I'm really looking forward to having a band saw. I've got a bunch of projects to work on once the house is finished, like cabinets for my wife's sewing room, our mud room, my shop, and then making my outfeed table, work bench etc. I'm really looking forward to having a woodworking shop as I've never had one before, other than moving the cars out of the garage and my tools off the walls to make something.
That looks like a good selection to me. Did you mention carbide tooth blades? Very expensivebut can give very nice cut. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Awesome information thanks
Thanks for sharing that!
Good things to know. Thank You.
I'm a big fan of Timberwolf blades. Great value for the cost 🙂
That’s what I came here to say I love them for my bowl blanks
Lol. Me too I haven't had my 14" rikon for very long. But I'm really liking these (timber wolf) blades. Would like to try out a carbide blade one time just to see the difference. But not ready to put that money into one yet.
Yep.
I have used the Timberwolf and Laguna brands and have been very satisfied with the re-saw quality. The Laguna may have just inched out in front of the Timberwolf in my opinion, but I would not hesitate to purchase either brand. I have since bought another well recognized brand and they just haven't performed as well. This is definitely an unscientific statement, but the perceived frustration level raised when I went with the other brand. I am open to any brand that performs well. With that, are there other brands that hit the top of the list with quality of cut and blade materials? Stumpy, do you have experience with many brands and are you allowed (by sponsors) to list some of your best blades in order of your satisfaction? Just FYI...My saw is the Laguna 14/12 and I love it.
I bought a new bandsaw this summer, and just tried resawing for the first time on it last night. I was trying to re-saw some walnut that was about 7 1/2 inches wide. My blade was a three-quarter inch wide, 4 TPI. I was disappointed with the cut quality. The blade did not stay straight through the board. 1/2 ended up up with a hump, and the other with a valley on the face of the board. Why did this happen? Can anyone explain it to me? I guess I need a blade dedicated to resign like James recommends.
Very good information ❤
Love this channel. Just pulled the trigger on the exact saw in the clip and delivery is scheduled early next week. Feel like I'm 8 years old waiting for Christmas. I was absolutely swayed to Harvey by your recommendation. A Harvey dust collector and table saw are on my wish list. Some new bandsaw blades are first, though. Please post some links if you can.
I'm also in the market for a Harvey bandsaw. Which one did you purchase, he's got both the C14 and HW615P. I'm leaning towards the C14. Are you completely satisfied with your purchase?
Thank you
Great info.
My go-to bade is a 7° 144"x1.25"x0.042"x7/8tpi.
Woodslicer by HIghland Woodworking is tops for resawing. 1/3 the price of the Laguna Resaw King.
I have a 10” and a pro quality 14” bandsaw that I mainly use for rough shaping, resawing or cuts where a smooth finish is not required. I’ve never liked the rough straight cuts versus the relatively smooth cuts from finer-toothed round blades on a table saw, radial arm saw, etc. For some uses, the band saw is the only way to go.
That free hand sketching was awesome. It's seems like you have done this before. J/K. It's amazing to draw all those w/o mistakes.
Yay finally a different background
thanks
Woodslicer makes great blades
Woodslicer blades from Highland Woodworking. Inexpensive, and fantastic for resawing.
I tried woodslicer and liked them at first but they seem to dull much faster than timberwolf.
I like Timberwolf brand blades for everything and there fairly inexpensive. I do have a few Laguna's Resaw King blades 3/4" and 1" for re-sawing.
I find your videos so interesting James. Keep up the good work. Oh, and first like and comment. Bonus. 🌞
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Abrasive woods like old growth teak (lots of silica) will eat carbon steel fast. Carbide will last far, far longer. This goes for router bits and other cutters as well.
Learned a lot by watching this video. You mentioned you like Sterling bandsaw blades. Where is your favorite place to buy them? Thanks again for taking the time to teach us!
I used to get them at Highland Woodworking, but they are out of stock, so I don't know where to get them now.
I need to just watch this over, and over, and over. Don't own a bandsaw. Gonna build one. Ya. I know... But, by Jiminy, I'm gonna know what blades to put on it when I'm done!
I’m thinking about getting a bandsaw. This video answers some of my questions. Thanks for the advice.
all well and good info.... if you have a 14" or larger band saw.
A smaller saw doesn't affect the minimum radius a blade will cut, nor the differences between types of steel and tooth count. Pretty much everything in this video applies to smaller saws and larger ones.
Hell, I still need to make my bandsaw RUN again... When I bought it, the lady selling it said her kid had been using it and had an incident where a piece of wood binded and got jammed between the blade and the mouth of the table where the blade goes in.. So what happens now is you start it, and the belt runs off the pulley. I know the pulley needs to be adjusted to line up with the motor, but I need to tear the thing apart to get to it properly. Otherwise it's a perfectly good freestanding floor unit that I'd use all the time if I could.
I use TimberWolf blades. My woodturning club places a group order periodically and we get great prices. I find the last a long time and I’ve never been disappointed. What size do you recommend for resawing kiln dried wood?
Timberwolf bandsaw blades work well for me in my shop
I have dipped the tips of my push stick. The can will dry out in a short time.
Mr. Nubbs do you have a video on bandsaw blade install and setup?
Hi Stumpy, I have some 1880 turpentine pine lumber from Merritt Island Florida that was hand hewn into floor joists. On one edge they have a row of the remains of square nails left over from the floor boards.
My question is: do you think it would be safe or practical to try to put a metal cutting blade in my circular saw to cut through the nails to clean up that edge?
I buy blades often. My bandsaw makes a noise like it's spitting at me compared to smooth and quiet when I put a new blade on. I've seen some videos of people repairing blades. I might give that a try. One commenter here says buy in bulk and make your own blades but that math doesn't work for me. The best price I can find on bulk still works out to $19 a blade for my saw. A new blade is not much more. I wish I could figure out why a blade after some use starts making that spitting sound. I keep everything clean inside. I must be missing something
Thanks James!
Very informative video 👍.
May I invest my small bit of experience?
I am quite disappointed with bi metal blades .
They are definitely more expensive but not as durable as they should be.
I used Bakho blades. Once I cut a big bone for my dog and this expensive blade has become absolutely dull! No teeth at all.(((
So I switched entirely to carbon steel blades from US.
Unfortunately, now it is a problem to buy them in Russia due to embargo (((
In my opinion it is better to buy three carbon blades instead of one bi metal blade
Stumpy I really enjoy your videos. I have a problem getting band saw blades for my 60 inch saw. I was getting them from harbor freight but the stopped carrying them and I can’t find any place that sells them I like using then in making different things. Or should I use thicker saw blades I hope you can help me. Ron
whats the best band saw to cut firewood? prob the hooked one, but what else is proper for that cuts?
@Stumpy Nubs, Have you published any woodworking books, or do you have any you'd recommend that focus on safety, tool setup and other basics?
I am working on a series of courses that are on that subject :)
Hi, I enjoy your tutorials!, I just bought my first DELTAL 16" 3 WHEEL BANDSAW 28-560, the blade selection chart only shows the with of the blades from 1/4" to 3/8", Unsure if I can use a 1/2" blade on the existing wheels! Please advice me.
What about tight curves in thick stock? I'm thinking bandsaw boxes?
Curious what blade you would recommend for cutting bandsaw boxes 5:29
My go to used to be Timber Wolf blades but after having several snap at the weld after very little use in 1 inch stock I went else where. After researching on the different woodworking forum and talking with other I came to learn that I was not the only one who had the same experiences with Timber Wolf. Many people had the blades snapping at the weld shortly after install. I have a little gauge that tells me when the blade has the proper tension so over tensioned was not the issue. I spoke with Rikon about this to get a recommendation and they stated that they too had the same experience with Timber Wolf blades. The recommended Olson. I purchased one and it is a very nice blade. I have also found a company in North Carolina that makes bandsaw blades and they are very pleasant and the welder is really knowledgeable about the different blades. For resawing diemaster 2 are great and last a lot longer. They are more expensive but do work very well. I have heard good things about the woodslicer blades but have not tried them.
I had trouble with Timberwolf blades breaking, too. Tried Lenox blades and never looked back.
What is the company in NC. As a NC resident myself, I’d like to buy from them
Can you recommend 2 blade companies? Thanks
You my boy blue
a decent approximation for the minimum radius (r) for a given blade width (w) is:
r ~ 1.3w^2 + 7w - 1
I'd think that was obvious.
What size resaw blade do you use on the alpha bandsaw?
I have a very basic bandsaw question, and anyone with experience is welcome to answer it. I'm asking here because I don't think I've seen it addressed elsewhere (perhaps it's too basic to mention).
Can you swap between a wider blade (like for resawing thick slabs) and a narrower blade (like for cutting finer curves) on the same bandsaw? The answer is probably obvious, but I don't want to assume anything. When I can eventually afford a bandsaw, I don't want to find out that I actually need two.
One bandsaw will work with most blades. Check the specs on the toy of your choice. It should give you a max and min width.
@@boogityboo8085 Excellent information. Thank you.
So if I were to use it largely for resawing, I'd get a wide blade, perhaps 1 inch, low tooth count, and a hard blade in carbon steel?
If your saw has the rigidity and spring strength to properly tension a really wide blade like that.
Just a technical boring note that has extremely little to do with the great content of the video: regarding heat treatment, in this case hardback blades - heat treating/hardening does not affect the stiffness of steel. It's a common misconception though. Heat treatment and hardening affects the strength of the steel. In practice, all steel regardless of quality or hardening deflects the same in proportion to the force applied, up to the breaking point.
So glad I haven't got a band saw, I still get confused which way to install a hacksaw blade 😂
@@TheFalconJetDriver sharp bowling balls 😂
I wish i had this video 6 months ago when i bought my first bandsaw and bought random blades
I got a 3/4" blade pinched in a dense chunk of wood and it kinked, is it worth trying to fix it or is it shot?
Hi James, my budget only allows me to purchase a bench top bandsaw, 1 I have seen is a 10" bandsaw, is it worth my hard earned money to purchase a benchtop bandsaw or should I think about another tool for my small shop, I was told I can do bandsaw boxes with the 1 I seen and I really want to try making a box, I understand this is YOUR opinion thank you
Some people get by fine with a 10-inch saw. You may be limited to smaller bandsaw boxes, but that's the trade-off.
James thank you
Alan, don't forget to look for used bandsaws as well. Where I am I regularly find Delta/Rockwell 14 inch saws in the $200 range. A used machine can give you a lot more saw for your money
I am currently using the Ryobi 904G. I like it. I do wish it was larger but you can only get what fits in your space. There is a video on band saw boxes using the Ryobi. You are limited in how big you can go of course - basically make one out of a 4x4 max - but it can be done.
Timberwolf blades work well for me. Not crazy expensive but still good quality.
Can anyone recommend a good choice for my Ryobi bench-top bandsaw? I know, I know.... someday I will upgrade but for now this is what I've got.
I have a Ryobi 900., 52.5 inch blades. Got a good deal on Bosch 3 blade pack on Amazon. Work nicely now I know how to set up the tracking.
@@1967250s Thanks for the info. I will check it out!
Why apologize? I have several Ryobi tools that have served me well.
@@jamesowen889 I do as well... not a knock on Ryobi and this is a fine bandsaw - for what it is. I am just starting to find it limiting in what I can do with it but only because of its limited size/capacity so a larger bandsaw is probably going to be my next large tool purchase. It has served me well though! I am hoping I can get better resaw results with a wider blade though.