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Thats an old release or F59phi - that chassis runs a lot faster than the new ones ....

The rear windows on these units are terrible! As a note, I've found the very top comes off for access to the inside also.. ok feature, but leaves a gap over the windshield..

Really informative vlogs. Maybe one day I’ll have the nerve to try and fix or just preform standard maintenance on my trains. Quick question, do you have an opinion or just any knowledge of “microACE” locomotives. I can find very little info on them. Thanks Jim

Brilliant! Thanks.

Pro tip.. to clean the contacts of electric motors. Use electric contact cleaner.. You can get it at any auto parts store or computer supply, also use can air or compressed air to lightly dry it off and to get rid of any dirt..

Always appreciate your videos on locomotive issues as I have quite a few locomotives that have never ran. I have ordered a new power pack and Kato track to start testing. I do have an FB3 unit I tested around 20 years ago that didn't run. Brand new like this atlas and didn't run, but the two FA and FB units ran. Looking forward to figuring why it doesn't run.

SOUTHERN PACIFIC had assigned home maintenance facilities such as Los Angeles, Houston, Pine Bluff. Four axle GE units were assigned to Pine Bluff, Arkansas.

The only thing that I see, appearance wise, the SOUTHERN PACIFIC on the long hood be above the louvers.

Brake ratchet on the short hood, some railroads require brake wheels.

Put that sound thing on a flatcar with a long extension cord

I run dcc n scale and ran dc to start and there is absolutely no benefit to running dc over dcc especially realistic opp’s . And you can get very good sound with them also just don’t be scared to hard wire something. Round and round might be good with dc but it’s garbage for other than that.

Hi Shane. Great video! Do you have any good strategy to tell the different motor types of Atlas China apart? I found out there are fast speed motors first and later Atlas introduced something called the slow speed motor and the scale speed motor. I understand scale speed is even slower (better) than slow speed(?) Spookshow says e.g. the GP38 had scale speed introduced around 2002, in 2004 the GP7/9 started to come with slow speed, though. Don't know whether that makes sense really. Different sources on the internet says you can tell the motors apart by the colour of the plastic (grey vs. black), but there are quite a few conflicting statements to find which colour is which motor. Do you have any insight regarding performance and optics? Thanks, Benjamin

Late to the party but this has so much potential with this project will checkout other videos on this,, new sub today from AUS

I would pay $150 for just the F7 and rolling stock and toss the rest or give it to someone who uses Bachman's easy track. I collect NS, and an F7 was my very first N scale locomotive as a kid.

cool channel just getting my grandson his first Kato train set. we live by the railroad and every time the train goes by he runs to the door to watch it go by! and his grandpa like these trains too! hang in there and I think I will be purchasing this sound box soon.

no expert here but the detail on that is awesome.

Just in time, i received 5 cars today and being a newb i was perplexed and already set on the idea this was going to cost me more money to fix. Great idea and im so glad i found this video.

Great video. I have an old 1970 passenger car that the light inside flickers. Any suggestions how I can get the inside light to stay on?

I have Digitrax and an MRC Tech 6 sound controller and i just bought the sound box for 150 bones of amazon and i like it a lot better.

Add the Kato wireless Smart Device Controller (22-019) so you can run everything from your phone. Total game changer for DC layouts!

I just converted an old bachmann split body to dcc. Added led lites front and rear and that engine runs smoothly pulling nine cars behind even a low speed. Even if you say it's junk, it's reliable junk😂

Wow that was really interesting. Next time our loco mechanics come in i'll see if they got shoo glue in their tool kit 😂👍😊

Yes that is the parking brake. Nice looking model. I’ve got one of these myself and looking forward to get 2 more.

Thank you Shane for part one, all that detail but poor craftsmanship cheap plastic! Good Grief

A little time a little patience

Oh nice! A classic Snoot nose! I have an ATSF standard nose and a BNSF EX ATSF SNOOT. Kato is the best! Keep rolling out the good content Shane!

Oh yeah! She lives on! Great job on getting this engine working Shane! Very impressive 3 part video!

Very nice job repairing this alco c628 demonstrator locomotive by atlas. I also use labelle products when I repair my trains on the gears and some times Bachmann lubricants.

lf it were me, I'd clean out that shoe goo, slide the "dog bone" back onto the shaft, and secure it with a little CA. Just my 2 cents.

Seems to be a common failure when Atlas switched to this style. I had an Intermountain with the same problem.

Nice job

Shane, I wonder if removing the thrust washer from the end of worm gear would give enough clearance to reduce the drag and improve the speed?

That don't look like no DASH 8 locomotive

All my Kato have a big hex piece at the end that fits into flywheels, never saw one like that,looks like ❤it designed to fail,like that shoe goo,going to have to try that

Flywheels are pressed on ,very unlikely to be the culprit

Likely between the worm and the plastic that fits on that shaft,needlenose tweezer to pull that piece out

You could of used Wathers Goo as well.

As i mention in your other video I have 4 of these. One is running slow but the motor is turning fast. I was told the axle is probably broken. I have not open it to see. If it's the same a yours, I might try just super gluing it. I went to Atlas website to see if they have the part and they don't. I have one question is did you take the trucks off before you film this episode? I notice from your first video and mine that the trucks at the beginning this video they were on backwards. Just wondering.

Shane, I hope this works for you. In the back of my mind, I've got feeling that the excess shoo-goo in there is going to create some problems with the driveshaft and the worm gear. Unfortunately, the replacement part you need: #520104 is currently unavailable. I had the exact same issue with an H16-44, fortunately I was able to get replacement from Shapeways before they went bankrupt.

There is a universal that fits on the end of the motor shaft on both ends inside the brass counter weights. The universals are plastic and are prone to slipping on the motor shaft, the universal shaft fits in those. Because the plastic universals slip on the motor shaft, that causes slip. I fixed mine with a drop of super glue.

All my modern Kato and BLI N scale engines have the keep alive and I use the bli rolling thunder with a 10in powered subwoofer. Running the BLI big boy Paragon 4 with that sub sounds like an O scale vision line lol. The Kato sound box is a great an on 👍

Nice gift, it's Jan 2nd bur Happy New Year Shane! Thanks

Great video! Toys R Us used to sell various Life-Like sets back in the day. The Life-Like sets that were once sold at Toys R Us stores were the Golden Rails set with either a hi-nosed Santa Fe GP38 or a high-nosed Union Pacific GP38, and the Freight Express set with a Santa Fe blue-and-yellow warbonnet F-unit. The cars that were included with the Golden Rails set were a Hooker tank car, a Maine Central gondola, an Erie-Lackawanna boxcar, a caboose for the Santa Fe or Union Pacific. The Freight Express set came with a cattle car, an Illinois Terminal gondola, a Texaco tank car, a Lehigh Valley box car, and a Santa Fe caboose.

My newer engines that are mostly DC, run really smooth and crawl slow, but I'm still wanting to go DCC, but sound isn't important to me. I have a couple that came factory with sound and they are tinny. I usually just turn the sound off. I would probably run something like you have shown for sound. I'm even considering pc controlled setup maybe down the road. Oh yeah....I've been looking for the same MKT 172 and found a seller on marketplace with it in a big lot, but he's never responded to my messages. I'm guessing the lot sold, he never deleted ad and is ignoring messages. LOL. He's from up by the KC area.

I just got one after a very long search. Myself and another guy had made some comments about one on one of the n scale Facebook pages. We both had been looking. I remember it getting mentioned about the really bad version on Ebay that had used decals, applied very poorly for 175, and how terrible it looked. I'm wondering if you were that other guy that had posted about looking for one and if you were the one I was talking to? Either way, I finally got one and not for the $250 that one guy was asking that sold for maybe that or a best offer. This more expensive one sold last month right before Turkey Day. I'm glad to see they are the China chassis since that means they are dcc ready.

First thing I would do is use my Tidy Track wheel cleaner. I use the pad on one side and the velcro on the other side. I use IPA 99.9% for the pad side and run it both directions then flip the loco and do the same. Works like a charm.

Add a small piece of masking tape to the side with the hex nuts and they won't fall off. Those hex nuts are a pain to get back in.