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I found that this same method also works nicely to join Peco Code 55 track to Kato Unitrack. Using the Kato connectors ends up with the code 55 track being a little too high, but when using the Peco ones it lines up just right

thank you

i enjoy and learn a lot from your video, but if you could post a picture of the actual wiring would be helpful for me. a view of the under carriage of your board in the example using the latching relay. thank you

Hi. thank you for explaining this. im putting onto my home layout. one thing im confused about is the positive postion on the relay. in your diagrams one shows you use it. the other you dont. should i connect the positive to the relay or button? or both? thank you again.

Hi John Just getting back into the hobby , my electrics are a little rusty. Your detailed tutorial here has inspired me. Modelling North America 1970s.. Subscribed Phil Perth Western Australia

Hi John, Loved the update! Always nice to see new stock and The dcc-ex was a nice surprise! I'm also dipping my toes in the world of Arduino, but looking at what other accessories and animation it can be used for rather than dcc control. Layouts looking good, lots of lovely scenery to look at during the running session. All the best Tony.

coming along nicely

Wow John, the layouts looking amazing. The backscenes have been faultlessly placed and just make the layout so much better.

Hi John! One can never have too many DCC controllers! :) The DCC EX setup looks like a good project to undertake! Nice to see some new locos arriving on the layout! Love the idea of a tennis court, don't think I've seen one on a layout before! All the best, Ian.

very nice DCC ex set up John! nice new purchases too. the town scene is developing nicely. enjoyed the running and a sweet update! :)

Nice work. You exemplify the wonderful diversity and potential variety within what is, ‘The Best Hobby in the World’ 😊

Looking good John, the computer stuff is quite fascinating and amazing how you know your way around those components. Like the new locos they look at home.

Greetings to the Upside-down 🐨 and hello John 👋 You have had a busy winter 🦘 with lots of new things 👀 The Tennis 🎾 court is a fantastic idea 💡 maybe you could have a school between it and the church ⛪️ 🤔 I hope that brewery is going to offer Merry Berry Perry 🍐 not only a fine tipple 🍻 but an industrial strength cleaner too ☣️🤫 It wouldn't be a Wimbletrain update 😇 without a box full of wires 🤭 This sounds like a very interesting project 👀 so I look forward to seeing more in future updates 🤞 plus more of the 66 🤩 Very best wishes from the Emerald Isle ☘️

could you just use the regular switch from the other video without the pushbutton, so the LED installation is easier or am I missing something?

I can,t find that relay. Where can i purchase them? Thank you and great videos!

Excellent.

Fun!

If you glue the corner block flush to the sides first you don't need the jig at all.

Nice clear explanation with graphics that make it so easy follow. Great job, thanks.

I will soon be building this kit but I might only be able to use the second smaller station shelter building as the main (larger) station building is going to be just a little bit too wide for my platform. I love these Metcalfe kits as the attention to detail is amazing. You just can't get the same look from a plastic molded kit. The only issue I have with Metcalfe is for N scale they do tend to make the platform kits a little bit too large.

Great video, this is exactly what I am trying to do. I have ordered the PCB via the link you provided. Where do I get a list of parts as I have to order them separately? Thanks!

Hi John! Well that was all a very neat and tidy installation! Great idea to have the two different inputs for different DCC controllers! All the best, Ian.

very nice and thanks for sharing. Dave

Nice job John! you have certainly thought about it, very clever and a great addition to the test bench! All the best Tony.

Clever work, John! Cheers for another cool bit of tech for that great layout!

Greetings to the Upside-down 🐨 and hello John 👋 You definitely like to box 📦 things off 😇 whereas I'm more a dangler from wire person 🤭 Impressive 😍 as always 👍 Very best wishes from the Emerald Isle ☘️

Well done 👍🏻

Zzzzzzzzzz.....

Thank you for the very clear explanation. However.... There is a far more easy way by using a single pole change over switch. No need for it being momantairy at all. It goes like this: Plus from power supply (12VDC at least. 15VDC works better) to one of the change over contacts of the switch. Minus of the power supply to the other change over contact of the switch. Connect the center or common of the switch directly to one end of the coil. Now comes the trick: In series with the coil, connect a 1000uF 25VDC capacitor (if not working satisfactory use a 2200uF 25VDC type!) from the coil to the minus of the power supply. Mind the polairity of the capacitor! The position of the change over switch can be left alone, no pulses or reset needed. The short current pulse the coil needs is provided by charging or discharging the capacitor. After changing the position there will be no current running at all through the coil since the capacitor blocks DC current. When one uses a dpdt change over switch, the 2nd pair of contacts can switch something else, like two leds or anything else. Two anti parallel switched LED's directly from the center contact of the 2nd contact pair, which also have been connected to plus and minus of the power supply, or even the same pair of contacts as the coil uses, connected to a (at least) 1K resistor to the plus and a 1k resistor to the minus. The center of the two resistors therefore are both used as half of the power. In that case one only needs two wires to a semaphore, consisting of a green and red LED. Of course the change over contact can also exist as one (of a pair) relay driven contacts. This gives the oppertunity of automatic control of any kind.

Thank you John for letting me know about that. I didn't realize that I don't want to ruin my switch track that way. Thank you for your time Sincerely Allan

Hello Sir, I like what is being done for the control panel, but now I'm even more confused about how to use this system. I have a question about this new setup. Would it be easier and less confusing if I used only the DPDT switch? This way when I throw the DPDT switch to the diverging track not only will the LED light turn on at the straight track, but at the same time the turnout switch will go from straight to the diverging track. Does that make any sense? Thank you for your time Sincerely Allan

Thanks John for this video! It's great! However, have you happened to have used only one bi-color LED for this circuit. I've attempted to do so similar to your other video (with the pushbutton and on-off toggle) bridging the two switch leads. It works but as soon as the momentary switch completes on my toggle switch, in either direction, the light flicks on but then goes out. I guess this relates to the latching component which is missing and you've used in this video which must keep the LED lit. For my setup, I only require one red/green LED with the color indicating whether the switch is clear or diverted. Can you advise what I need to keep the LED solid as in this video? And also, the circuitry involved. Many thanks, Dave in NYC.

Great video! Thanks.

Struggling to find Kato track in OO gauge

Good job! 👏 Thanks for the tutorial and making this clear. I can see where a reversing loop is good for secondary spurs and operations, definitely be a hindrance on a main though…

Operating a return loupe with dual pwr packs. Can it be done?

Nice idea for a Module. I‘m always looking for inspiration for my own modules and I Like this one. Greetings from germany.

nicely done, just starting my layout

Great tutorial what decoder did you use ?

I made a control panel for a 6 turnout layout. Your circuitry worked and controlled the LEDs just fine. At that time I had not added the turnouts to the circuit. When I added the trunouts to the circuit, the turnouts worked well however some of the latching relays failed to latch when the turnout was activated. The LEDs would change when the switch was held but go back their previous position when the momentary switch was released. Any suggestions to resolve this problem?? Thanks Lew Vancouver, BC

Good job! And yes, expensive. Looks like you saved some 💰

These Kato turnouts bug me how they aren't consistent, like how the #6 DON'T allow you to provide power down to the unused side but the #4 do. I'm under the impression that the #6 are not only more reliable, but also I just believe they look better in most cases than the #4, which means you'll need to add power to the diverging route assuming that you're wanting to also use the non-diverging route. That way you can run trains on the main line, and operate something in the sidings at the same time. Frustrating. Just researching because of a T trak modules I'm making. Otherwise I'm perfectly happy to isolate the frog and power it based on a simply mechanical switch. Thanks for the video!

remember when we called them .points'. :-( Excellent video though.

Hi John, enjoyed the video and admiring your handiwork on viaduct - that must've taken you a while to do. That's a nice looking 20, I've been admiring those online too! I'm not too sure how to deal with the different levels, unless it might become a large water feature, with surrounding countryside and maybe a water mill? Just a thought. Cheers, Brian

Nice Update. I like the bridges

Hi John, I think the viaduct looks really good even with the slight colour change, nothing in the real world is perfect and as Ian says bit of weathering and it will look fine. I really like them class 20’s and I’m sure one day one will find it’s way onto Exehaven. The Scalescenes houses look really good, they’re such good kits, did it take you long to make them? As for the road, you’ve had some good suggestions, make sure there is headroom for the height of the highest vehicle that is likely to travel under the bridge, it’s just the way my brain works like my fishing boat having room to get under my bridge, lol!!!! Really nice update mate, cheers for now John, John

terrace houses look pro and a sweet new loco! layout is looking sharp John :)

LEDs: wire these through a single 680 Ohm resistor. This will prevent the full 12V reverse voltage being applied to the “off” diode. Most LEDs are rated at around 5V reverse voltage.

Laughs in superior German 3 rail

When do you use non-power routing?