I've been trying to hook up trackside signals to Kato points for ages and never had the confidence to try "complicated" electronics. One trip to Jaycar, two watches of your video, and it all worked first time! Thank you so much.
Hi John. I of course was one of the people who had issues with the wiring diagrams from the first video. I just couldn't get it to work. I just finished copying your new diagramming here and hallelujah it worked perfectly and beautifully the first time!!! Thank you again for taking the time and trouble to redo the video!! This was much appreciated and I can now go and wire the 35 turnouts I have on my layout! All the best and cheers!
Just found your channel and subscribed. Great tutorials!!! Prototyping breadboards are great for testing out circuits and wiring. Long term use soldered connections for all wiring, because wires are easily pulled out of prototyping breadboards.
@@timcontreras5208 I used a different latching relay than wimbletrains. Hfd2/012-m-L2. And a common cathode red/ green led. [3 LEADS]. I can't send a pic of the set up in a reply sorry.
Dear sir, when wiring from a normal SPDT switch, all you need is a capacitor of 1000 up to 2200uF 25VDC or higher, in series with the coil of the switch motor. Mind the polarity! The plus 12Volt to one side of the CO contact, minus (or zero) to the other side of the CO. The middle contact directly to one end of the coil, the other coil wire to the positive side of the capacitor which connects directly to minus (or zero). Just flip de SPDT switch and the point is operated. It hardly takes any current since the current to charge the capacitor is all you need. Because of the capacitor being charged and discharged through the coil, which is about 20 Ohms, there will be no rest current running in the circuit once the capacitor is fully charged or discharged. Using a DPDT switch gives the oppertunity to connect two leds or anything else. Using the CO contavts of a relays also gives the same result.
Hi and thanks. You need to use a momentary switch so that you only apply a short pulse of 12V to the Kato switch. If you have a normal switch it will send 12V continuously to the Kato switch which will damage it. Yes, you can also use a bipolar LED of you wish but the purpose of using 2 separate LEDs is so that you can easily see on the control panel which way the Kato switch is.
I made a control panel for a 6 turnout layout. Your circuitry worked and controlled the LEDs just fine. At that time I had not added the turnouts to the circuit. When I added the trunouts to the circuit, the turnouts worked well however some of the latching relays failed to latch when the turnout was activated. The LEDs would change when the switch was held but go back their previous position when the momentary switch was released. Any suggestions to resolve this problem?? Thanks Lew Vancouver, BC
Hi Lew, maybe try swapping the working and non working relays with each other to see if it's the relay or some other problem. If you can eliminate one thing at a time it should lead you to the problem. John
Hello and thanks. I'm in Australia and got mine locally from a placed called Altronics, but that's not really an option for you I guess. That's the only one I could find locally to do my test setup with. However, it doesn't need to be the exact same type number. I don't know what's available in Spain but I did find one from a electronics store in the UK called Maplin (www.maplin.co.uk/). It's a different type number but it has the same pinouts as the one I used (and a lot cheaper than my one too!) If you search for 550023 you should find it 12V Miniature Latching Relay DPDT HFD2. The data sheet is also there showing the pin out diagram. Not sure if that's an option for you. You may want to search locally and see if you can find something similar, like I said, doesn't need to be the same part number as what I used as long as it does the same job.
Greetings to the Upside-down and hello John 👋 Well done those Socceroos ⚽️ 🥳🥳 Another very well explained tutorial 😇 but you lost me at points 😲 can't stand those things 😳🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Best wishes from the Emerald Isle ☘️
LOL sorry about mentioning those things! I didn't stay up to watch the game (2am start) but was shocked to hear they had won. 🇭🇲⚽️👍Cheers from a happy 🇭🇲
I've been trying to hook up trackside signals to Kato points for ages and never had the confidence to try "complicated" electronics. One trip to Jaycar, two watches of your video, and it all worked first time! Thank you so much.
Hi Paul, that's great to hear! 👍John
I spent 2 hours doing my head in on your previous videos and then realised this one was here, thanks for the update.
No worries!
Hi John. I of course was one of the people who had issues with the wiring diagrams from the first video. I just couldn't get it to work. I just finished copying your new diagramming here and hallelujah it worked perfectly and beautifully the first time!!! Thank you again for taking the time and trouble to redo the video!! This was much appreciated and I can now go and wire the 35 turnouts I have on my layout! All the best and cheers!
That's great Peter! I can see in the previous video where I caused the confusion but its good that its all clear now. John
Ok so it works perfectly first go, Thankyou so much for taking the time to redo the diagram, much appreciated!!!!!
It's my pleasure Brett, good to see you got it working!
Just found your channel and subscribed. Great tutorials!!! Prototyping breadboards are great for testing out circuits and wiring. Long term use soldered connections for all wiring, because wires are easily pulled out of prototyping breadboards.
Thankyou very much for subscribing! Yes the breadboard comes in very handy when testing. Cheers John
Hi John, Great walkthru on wiring a Kato point motor, nicely presented and easy to understand All the best Tony.
Hi Tony, thankyou very much
Followed your previous diagram. I made one modification. Using a common cathode red green Led. Works great. Thanks.
Nice!
@fordtopgun, can you show how you wired the common cathode red/green led.
Can this be used for a Kato double crossover?
And have you tried using common cathode green/red LED’s?
@@timcontreras5208 I used a different latching relay than wimbletrains. Hfd2/012-m-L2. And a common cathode red/ green led. [3 LEADS]. I can't send a pic of the set up in a reply sorry.
@@timcontreras5208 I made a quick short video with my setup. Never done a video before. 1st time for everything.
Thanks for posting this!. Very well illustrated. I do have mine working now though there was much trial and error. Great video as usual!
Excellent to hear you have it working now!
Dear sir, when wiring from a normal SPDT switch, all you need is a capacitor of 1000 up to 2200uF 25VDC or higher, in series with the coil of the switch motor. Mind the polarity! The plus 12Volt to one side of the CO contact, minus (or zero) to the other side of the CO. The middle contact directly to one end of the coil, the other coil wire to the positive side of the capacitor which connects directly to minus (or zero). Just flip de SPDT switch and the point is operated. It hardly takes any current since the current to charge the capacitor is all you need. Because of the capacitor being charged and discharged through the coil, which is about 20 Ohms, there will be no rest current running in the circuit once the capacitor is fully charged or discharged. Using a DPDT switch gives the oppertunity to connect two leds or anything else. Using the CO contavts of a relays also gives the same result.
Hello, yes I have tried a setup like you mentioned and it works well. Thanks for watching!
Nice video I had questions on why u needed momentarily switch. Bipolar leds have 3 wires though most of them
Hi and thanks. You need to use a momentary switch so that you only apply a short pulse of 12V to the Kato switch. If you have a normal switch it will send 12V continuously to the Kato switch which will damage it. Yes, you can also use a bipolar LED of you wish but the purpose of using 2 separate LEDs is so that you can easily see on the control panel which way the Kato switch is.
Hi John! Very informative and very well explained as usual! Cheers, Ian.
Hi Ian, thankyou!
Great video John. Expertly demonstrated :)
Hi John, thankyou very much
Great walkthrough.
Thanks Dave!
Great walk-through!
Thanks Anthony!
I’m sorry. You mention toward the end that diodes were installed on the latching relay. What size diodes?
Hi, I think it shows the diodes used in the circuit diagram. They are 1N4001 diodes.
I made a control panel for a 6 turnout layout. Your circuitry worked and controlled the LEDs just fine. At that time I had not added the turnouts to the circuit. When I added the trunouts to the circuit, the turnouts worked well however some of the latching relays failed to latch when the turnout was activated. The LEDs would change when the switch was held but go back their previous position when the momentary switch was released.
Any suggestions to resolve this problem??
Thanks
Lew
Vancouver, BC
Hi Lew, maybe try swapping the working and non working relays with each other to see if it's the relay or some other problem. If you can eliminate one thing at a time it should lead you to the problem. John
Great tutorial thanks. Regards Tom
Thanks Tom
Hi John, thank you very much for your channel. Could you tell me where to get the relay? Here in Spain I'm having a hard time finding it. Thanks a lot
Hello and thanks. I'm in Australia and got mine locally from a placed called Altronics, but that's not really an option for you I guess. That's the only one I could find locally to do my test setup with. However, it doesn't need to be the exact same type number. I don't know what's available in Spain but I did find one from a electronics store in the UK called Maplin (www.maplin.co.uk/). It's a different type number but it has the same pinouts as the one I used (and a lot cheaper than my one too!) If you search for 550023 you should find it 12V Miniature Latching Relay DPDT HFD2. The data sheet is also there showing the pin out diagram. Not sure if that's an option for you. You may want to search locally and see if you can find something similar, like I said, doesn't need to be the same part number as what I used as long as it does the same job.
@@wimbletrain Thank you very much for your answer. I will look for this model. Thank you very much
Greetings to the Upside-down and hello John 👋 Well done those Socceroos ⚽️ 🥳🥳 Another very well explained tutorial 😇 but you lost me at points 😲 can't stand those things 😳🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Best wishes from the Emerald Isle ☘️
LOL sorry about mentioning those things! I didn't stay up to watch the game (2am start) but was shocked to hear they had won. 🇭🇲⚽️👍Cheers from a happy 🇭🇲
good vid thank lee
Thanks Lee
Nice
Thankyou Daniel