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I had to use a drill so I could brake it apart and it worked. Thank you tho!!

Great help! I was able to get this done in 15 and this was the only video I could find the cover the steering control module instead of the clock spring which I had already tried to fix, and it did not resolve the issue

I was apprehensive to drill out the pin. Instead, I used a punch in the hole. After several strikes, the lock released and I didn't need to drill at all. Awesome video. Thank you for this.

Yes it has been hot!

Thank you for making this. I disconnected connector 1 and reconnected ut. It fixed the issue. What does connector 1 lead to?

Where are you located ? This is exactly what is Happening to my truck

Does this apply to the 5.9 Cummins as well? I have a 2002 Dodge 3500 Auto. I am having the following issues: No alternator Charging, Truck starts in 3rd gear, no overdrive, can drive truck when shifting manually 1-3, no gauges work other than RPM, Engine light, No Bus w Codes.. Been scratching my head about it and cant figure it out

I have a dodge dakota with the same issue, starts and runs for about 30 or 40 min, then shuts down, what i do is i move connection 1 andnthebtruck starts right back up, another thing is that while the truck is on i also move the connector 1 wires and the truck shuts off, any clue of whats going on.

Amazing young man!! Great advice!! Definitely using this technique on my next wheel hub job.

Don’t force it, get a bigger hammer 😂😂

Hey I've got a No Bus on my 02 3500.. runs and drives, no overdrive and button doesn't work, no gauges work other than RPM, check engine fuel abs brake and some other dummy lights on, no OBD communication. Not sure what the issue is. I've done the cluster diagnostics the gauges work when doing the test, but not sure what it can be. Where should I start with diagnosing this?

Great video thanks for sharing ❤

I have a no bus with start. Pin layouts and drawings would be great if you can help. I'm a retired instrumentation & controls tech. 1-5 vdc understood. Not a video fan butc to your approach was A1. 1999 ram 1500 5.9

Plz tell me what to do can't no mechanic figure it out I have to try and do it myself can someone plz help me

Thanks for the video!!! I've had a warning in my 2016 ford explorer sport about parking aid system fault, I found in internet it is a common issue and it is in fact water in the harness, but I though I had to remove the entire bumper and now you just saved me a lot of time. Thank you!!!

Thank you for this Video! You’re super smart my guy. Very good teacher.

I tried to find a wheel drive on Amazon with no luck. Is there a link you can share to tell me how to get one? Thanks

Nothin wrong with wanting to torque stuff to "spec" my man.

Why didn’t I found this video before??? My trucks been down for 2 years and this is the only video I actually needed. Your the man

🇬🇷🇺🇲🍔🗽🏈🦅🏛️

If that is the problem what do you do from there

설치를 완료하셨나요?

Betcha it jumped a cog or cog broke off and jammed,wadya think.

Shut the bike off

Thank you very much, it also works on a regular countryman. Just did it in under 40min. 👍🏼

I have that one and I'm able not to use it ford dealership gave me different one to use

I came across this video because I had to replace mine in a 2016 F150 XLT. The buttons on the steering wheel were out *and* the turn signal controls were out too (wipers, windshield spray, brights, left/right turn). The only thing that worked on the switch was the high speed wiper. The column housing replacement went fine and restored most functions, except for the lower steering wheel functions. It was easy, this video did help a lot. I needed a long 3mm hex tool (allen wrench) for the airbag removal, 7/32" for the screws and 15/16" for the steering wheel bolt torqued to 41 ft/lbs for mine. I used a rope around my leg and through the steering wheel to keep the steering wheel from turning while getting the steering wheel bolt on/off. I suspect the SCCM module needs reprogramming. I've ordered an OBD reader for Forscan and will attempt to reload the 'As Built' SCCM settings. You can get those values from Ford (motorcraft) online based on your VIN. I'll try and circle back to update with the results. It's good to have the wipers and blinkers back. UPDATE: Forscan did it. I had to reconfigure the first four bytes of location 724-03-01. These are the 'steering wheel switch left hand cfg' and 'steering wheel right hand cfg'. I set them to match the 'as built' values for my VIN and the buttons started working correctly again. I spent a day watching videos, downloading parameters for reference and setting up an old surface pro with the Forscan software and data so I could use it in my truck. Followed all appropriate precautions and it worked like a charm. Best wishes and good luck!

Cool...thanks!!!!

I had a leak and this video proved to be priceless, great job.

thanks for the video. Is there any reason why I could not just also tape the first gap you describe (just like the seal just above it) instead of using a sealant?

This is a great tip. I will add the following: Ace hardware has the 3/8"diameter tube. Get 2 feet. Then get the next size up 1/2" and 1 foot long. The big one fits snug over the 3/8" and the 1/2" will fit snug on the funnel. When you are doing the IV technique, it goes slow. I used my garden shears to cut a small air hole in the upper corner of the quart and that made draining much faster. Cut the hole where you can squeeze it closed then use your other hand to squeeze the sides of the quart. Be sure to insert the tubes well into each other and the funnel tip so nothing comes undone when you are draining the fluid.

Thanks! Really needed this info

Door is open in video- but video is explaining how to take panel off with door closed and locked

Great video. I’ve got an NT20 that the blower won’t even kick on. I pulled the unit out, but as you’ve noted in the video, I can’t even access wiring to test for power. Pulling the cover off my thermostat, it appears that the t-stat is functioning, but how can I be sure? What else should I be checking to see why the blower isn’t coming on?

I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the wire once you poke it through the weather boot... I've torn apart my engine bay and still can't find the boot from the engine bay side of the firewall

Thank u sir for this, i literally just did the same fuck up and ur video saved my ass.

I have a 2023 Jayco that I bought literally 2 days ago and the very first time I fired up the furnace I smelled propane/exhaust smell and the propane alarm started going off within 10-20 seconds.

What would cause a exhaust smell inside?

yep.....that would explain my problem as well. only when the furnace is rolling is when you smell raw propane. never even thought of the fan taking it and pushing it through the vents. very helpful video. gonna rip into it this weekend.

thanks for the video. quick question: i had the actuators replaced a few years ago but i am getting the same issue were when i click the cold/hot dial one click past cold - the actuators fully engage and blow 100% heat. would you recommend i change both or just the one closest to the console? Any suggestions would be great.

The diagnostic plug broke and a couple pins were touching, I seperated them and the No bus went away. I suppose I will need to wire a new plug in the near future.

Thank you for this great video!. The drilling of the pin is the trick. Then cycle the lock cylinder to unlock, and the door is now able to be opened.

Good tip. Perhaps you could just takeoff the power steering pump and look inside the hole to check the chain Thanks to you for the idea.

Hey buddy, doing one in a 22 f250, did you have to reprogram that module?

I have an NT 30 SP, and I think I have it narrowed down to the circuit board failure. I just don’t know how to take the shell off to access the circuit board. How do you do that?

DICOR Corp 501LSD-1 RV 0:57 DICOR Corp 501LSD-1 RV Maintenance and Repair (501Lsd-1 Dicor Self Leveling Lap Sealant

It really does look like a 6 year old drilled it. 😂

This is a good idea!!!

Those look like welds on the used one under where the o ring on rings are on the new one "that you can't see". I thought these parts were aluminum. Interesting. I have done a lot of tubing and pipe welds on orbital machines. This is new to me.

Jumps around too quick.