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I knew this was going to be a good movie when I saw that Richard Rubin was the property manager.🙄

How do you lock it

Hey, just curious as to why you went for a DC PTC heater and power supply. Wouldn't it be easier to just use a ac ptc heater and ac stc1000 to control the temp?

So if filament absorbs humidity, water in the air, does that mean the 3d print product can also be affected by humidity and water? I've seen people printing shoes with TPU. But in my knowledge, PU shoes material falls apart, deteriorate by the time because of it's hydrolysis and absorbed water. So does product printed by TPU absorbs water and falls apart over time?

it's crazy how marked up the pricing was for so many of the components you used in this project, just because you purchased them from amazon. $11 for a ptc heater, $10 for a 12v blower fan, $11 for an XH-W1219 thermostat? $15 for a plastic box??

Is that pla or abs?

Something that I never understood is how does the humidity scapes if the box is completely sealed? Doesn’t it build up condensation inside on cold weather?

And then.. the Sunlu S4 exists for ~150€.

Thank you so much for this awesome edited version! Great work! 🥰

Hi, I like your video, i want to ask you something. Have you ever tryed your box with Nylon or TPU, because i want to try it with those filament. Thank u

At 1:58, you have a tool on the left side of your desk with the blue flexible arms. What is that and where can I get one? thx.

I love this you show sale them as a side business

This is genius for anyone living in a colder climate and doesnt have a dedicated snake room. Thank you for this!

Could a seedlings heat mat be a possibility of heating source. No offence but 8 amp is alot.

IMHO, I just thinking about it, so my thoughts. PTC heater AC, 12$ Thermostat with NTC thermistor AC 3$ Box and everything else is just variables, and depens on personal tastes. Even cheap portable oven with digital thermostat will works I cirrently think about some metal container, because it will be more fire safe and with this, it will be possible to fire up to 120 Celsius for nylon stuff

Dude, this is amazing, THANK YOU. I've already got one of those exact bins setup as a dry box, and this will work great to complete it. Think that I'm going to build one each for PETG, ASA, and nylon. Again, THANK YOU for the info on the electronics.

So the My Arcade game you show with the two buttons included is actually a Bubble Bobble. Since Bubble Bobble is not among the 6 games chooseable for the Pac-Man unit, I suppose it belongs to a different set of games included in those units. Could you find out which games are in that set? It looks like the My Arcade unit uses NES games which of course have been around for a long time, while the Tiny Arcade units have their own, less capable hardware with newly programmed ports, which you can tell by the fact that the games have a lower resolution and framerate (does that hardware support sprites at all?) and don't look that arcade-accurate generally.

a very simple method for drying filament that is completely free and can work if you need is to put you filament on your printers bed heat up the bed and cover with a filament box. this works very surpassingly well

All these filament dryers remind me a bit of how you could once go into a store and find a selection of floppy disk and CD storage cases. I wonder whether someone will figure out how to make some compatible coating that makes the need for dryers obsolete (I know there are some more 'hydrophobic' materials available, but they still absorb moisture - just a lot slower). Or perhaps even a way to extrude from blocks instead of having the space and materials waste of rolls.

Why not use Capricorn tubing? It works better than the cheap PTFE. It has less friction so filament should not drag as its going from the box to the hotend.

Just got around to wiring up everything and all is good except one ornament doesn't work with the 6VAC power supply. It's the borg cube that talks when turned on. I verified the socket I plugged it into had power but no joy. I had also made a series connection for two spinners and tried plugging it into that which also didn't work. I still have one old set of lights that works and when I plug it in there it still works so I know it's not bad. Dang!

Is the fan and ptc heater listed the larger ones?

This is an interesting camera. I don't have an idex but i do need to inspect my Prusa xl nozzle before printing in case it needs to be cleaned might be use full for that application

Now that's a cool idea!

awesome instructions. Thanks

Does it work wihtout battery and with charger plugged in?

Bogus. Didn't work. Game never changed. All jumpers or any combination even no jumper was same game.

Can you repost the tinker cad link please? I get an error when I follow it

Excellent video, i was contemplating building my own dryer, this helps. Keep it up. Subscribed and liked.

Thanks for posting this. I've been searching for an AC power supply for the ornaments and had not been able to find one.

fantastic video! Would mind sharing the link to Tinkercad in the comments? The URL in the description goes to a 404 page.

In my tests you can get perfect filament drying results using ONLY desiccant. The desiccant does need to be removed and recharged (dried in oven) every once in a while (depending how often you open the lid). Crystal cat litter works great and is very cheap.

The best way i found to do this is to put the molds and silicone in to soapy water and then put silicone into the mold.

Thats a pretty smart idea!

The tinkercad link is not working anymore.

Cool IDEX printer! I am in the same boat. Ember Prototypes also sent me a demo unit. I am very happy with CXC tool!

Glad to hear you found it useful and easy to use 😊 thanks for making a review on it - happy new year 🎊

Seeing Noctua fans makes me smile.

Great project!! Could you make a step by step video? How to set up the software and implement sounds and images? Or would you share your image?? 🙏

I busted my game on the count of you. I'm triggered man😮

Your 3d print quality is beyond awful.

Movie looks brand new. 👍 it's one of my favorites nice job !

Movie looks brand new. 👍 it's one of my favorites nice job !

The watts consumed determines temperature inside a sealed enclosure, all else being equal. ANY 90 watt heater will produce more heat than ANY 80 watt heater, period. (actual watts consumed, not rated watts). There had to be some other variables causing the different readings, air flow direction etc. You need an actual thermocouple probe inside the enclosure. Also, moisture CANNOT leave a sealed enclosure. As soon as the heat is off the moisture goes right back in the filament. It must be vented.

I REALLY like your design, but when you gave the cost breakdown to build it, you left out the cost of the power supply you used. I just happen to not have one of those lying around in my shop. 😱 GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!!!!

this is a really smart solution for parked heads! question for you- how are you handling purging on the chimeras? normal IDEX printing doesn't need a purge since you have two independent extruders, but since you're mixing two in each nozzle I imagine you're purging. Are you purging between every color change no matter what or are do you have a way of specifying a purge between A->B and C->D, but not any of the other swaps (AC, AD, BC, and BD)?

Thanks for the great video. Where is the link for the silicone filament stopper you mentioned in the beginning of the video? I even searched the page of comments and didn't find any comments on it.

Hi. Nice video and nice job. Thank you for sharing your experience. I arrived here looking for ideas for making also my own filament dryer. I think you need to open little holes on top of the dryer to allow the moisture to go out. Is the dryer getting any kind of moisture or fine condensation underneat the lid?. It looks to me that your dryer is faster drying than the silica desiccant absorbing. What I have planning so far is using a simple old fashion 100W light bulb instead of the PTCs heaters you used. As another option I would like to test the ceramic heating elements in those hair straightener flat irons that are very cheap in thrifty stores. These irons also comes with temp control that should work for limiting the max temp. For the light bulb a simple dimmer should also limit the temp (installed after the temperature controller). Also we can get better results if we slowly rotate the spools while drying. For this task I have on hand a couple carnivalized microwave oven tray rotation motors that I'm still thinking how to make them to rotate at leas three spools each. Anyways, I'm sharing my ideas on how to bypass buying the PTC and that beefy power supply. Happy 3D printing! and cheers!

do you have to change the software code for this to swing over the print plate?

Bro holy shit what is this printer?! This is genious... is this a zero waste mulit color printer?