JGMaker Artist-D 3D Printer Z-Axis Upgrade. No more falling gantry!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มิ.ย. 2022
- We picked up a JGMaker Artist-D IDEX 3D printer on clearance. Let's see if we can improve some of it's flaws and make ourselves a nice multicolor printer. First thing: we fix the Z-Axis to stop the gantry from dropping on a power failure.
500mm TR8x2 Lead Screws with T8 Brass Nut
amzn.to/3MMmBvt
TPU Washer design:
www.tinkercad.com/things/cP2n...
Music: www.bensound.com - เกม
Great video explaining the issue and your implementation to mitigate it. It was informative and easy to follow along. Great job!
Leveling corners:
If extruder does not move up or down (Z axel) when rotating bolt during “bed leveling” option: you’ll have to play a bit between two menu options (“auto home” and “level corners”)
Basically, right after selecting “auto home” rotate this bolt clockwise or counterclockwise quickly enough before it finish returning to main position of “auto home”. Then go to “level corners” and check the result. Repeat as many times as necessary rotating clockwise or counterclockwise the bolt depending on the change in position of extruder during “level corners” option.
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Explanation: When selecting “auto home” extruder firstly moves up releasing pressure on little sensor button. This button is there to let motors know when to stop landing extruder while going down. Later extruder will go down again and will hit the sensor button.
The bolt touches small metal plate and the last one touches sensor button. Extruder stops moving downwards.
So if you want extruder (during “leveling corners”) be further from the bed, you’ll have to rotate bolt clockwise during extruder movement in “auto home” menu selection.
And otherwise: if you want extruder be closer to the bed, then select “auto home” again and turn the bolt counterclockwise.
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P.S. if, during rotation of the bolt in “auto home” selection, extruder goes down and suddenly printer starts to wiggle and make wired noise: simply turn the bolt clockwise a few times. Everything is good now.
This noise means that you have unscrewed the bolt to much. Bolt is not hiting sensor when extruders are going down. Motors have used all available movement space and reached bottom floor. However they still receive the signal to keep working and are trying to rotate both spirals to move extruders down.
Simply rotate the bolt clockwise
But now the gantry won't be able to move as fast... hopefully the better accuracy and mitigating catastrophic power failures are worth a modestly slower movement of the gantry when you are not printing.
Very true. For myself, I prefer the tradeoff but it's something folks should consider.
The z axis doesn't have to move fast, unless you're holding it inside yourself and have to go to the toilet in a hurry...
seriously the full (x,y) layer has to be printed before the z axis is allowed to move up by 0.3mm... it's a non-issue.
Have the Pro model, and can confidently say this will probably work on the pro model too, it has the same issue. Haven't noticed it much on power loss but definitely can push it down
I’ll bet Igor didn’t even grab you a drink
I have a JG Artist D Pro 3D Printer. But it isn't easy to get replacement nozzles in the USA. I have to wait about 20+ days before receiving my order. The only nozzle available from Amazon is AP 0.08, shipped and received within 6 days. I am thinking about what I will do with my Artist D Pro Printer.
The quick-release nozzles were an interesting idea, but getting your hands on more sounds like a pain. Swapping to another extruder design might not be a bad idea, even if you stick with a standard IDEX design.
Could a similar effect be done by using an anti-backlash nut instead?
I think so, but I'm not certain the added friction would be enough with a pitch as steep as my printer. I decided just to go for a shallower pitch. Here's a video that highlights the backlash nut solution. th-cam.com/video/Lpc1bTsSpRA/w-d-xo.html&t
@@mightystudiosvids I have backlash nuts on my Ender 3 Pro after I converted it to direct drive and had some left over! If anything when mine comes in I'll try that first before swapping the lead screws
@@mightystudiosvids Just wanted to come back and say, I was able to slap some anti-backlash nuts on mine and it DID have the same effect! It also helped with the z banding I was getting as well!!!
@@JazzyPlz That's fantastic! Glad it worked out for you.
please help me I have a problem that bothers me. When I level the bed, everything is working fine till now, but when I finish printing, it goes back to how it was at the first time, so I have to repeat the whole process over and over ( leveling the bed ). Another thing is that when i pause and resume the printing, the nozzle is high.
When you finish printing, is it out of level or just not the right elevation? I wonder if your zaxis movement is having issues
@@mightystudiosvids yes when i finish printing ...and i want to start a new one i have to level te bed again like in the first time
@@aymezemouri2942 The only thing I can think of is the two z-axis motors are not spinning together in sync. I'd check the top belt, or watch them closely to make sure they are spinning together. Other than that, it's hard to guess without a video or something. You can also try JG Maker's website. I think they have a user forum that might help.
@@mightystudiosvids when i o to settings / ReadyPrint> Tool offfset ( X2 offset was 365.6 and the Y2 offset -0.1 and the Z2offset 0.3 i changed them to 365.8 -& 0.4 & 0.5 ....!
Where can I get the STL to print the TPU part?
Thanks for the reminder! I had forgotten to post it. I made the design public on Tinkercad for you. You can export the STL from there. www.tinkercad.com/things/cP2n43E40k1
Thank you!