วีดีโอ

@@Trekz86 rockcote render is designed to be used with plastic beads, every renderer I know uses them and I’ve had no issue with cracking and adhesive or bonding using this product for over 15 years, if you haven’t used rockcote before understand the procedures and requirements with the particular product before stating someone is applying it wrong. The expansion line I know that’s why one wasn’t put in when it should have been by the brick layers over that span.

@@millsfitness4742 fair enough but I've never used plastic beads and never will. I use the aluminium meshed beads. Can't go wrong with them. I've used rockcotes texture but never their renders. I use unitex base coats and Dulux texture . Your work is very clean 👌

@@Trekz86 I understand, I’ve used aluminium mesh beads and there a great alternative also. Thanks

my friend if you really want to learn rendering , follow this mans videos he explain everything you need to know , no music no fast forward just pure explanation about everything that is got to do with rendering walls plus the mixtures . th-cam.com/video/-L8CK7MSEn0/w-d-xo.html

Haha thats funny because it’s been 4 years and it hasn’t cracked, you don’t need to mesh the corners with this product, if you understood the procedures and tolerances of different products you’d realise that, if you have never used this material before I wouldn’t be making comments on it, not everything is the same with all materials

Haha you know my pain then, on the Sunshine Coast

Hey mate, yes it’s normal as it’s the part of the wall closes to the ground it will naturally absorb the water/moisture from the ground, you can fix a drip mould slightly of the ground to keep the render off the bottom (usually sand & cement) with this product it has tons of additives and bonding agents so it doesn’t require a drip mould, never had any problems with the water getting behind the render causing it to crack, so yeah perfectly normal 👍

@@millsfitness4742 mine looks as if the water is at the bottom of the wall behind the wall due to it being concrete on the ground But I suppose you'll never completely remove all water from the ground in an enclosed space

@serdarniyazi it’s hard to know without seeing it, depending on the product you’ve used and few other factors, just check for cracks and boxing so tap on the wall we’re it is wet and see if it sounds Drummy that’s a good indication that the render is coming away

Yeah I used to do it like that 10 years ago and you defiantly get a flatter finish but to be fair I can get it just as flat as if I went over it with a c channel, you just have a lot more material wastage unless there paying for a screed job I’ll just Darby it, ketcote is also really good but I’ve never had a problem with patch and prep always stuck to my waterproofing, if it’s the real heavy stuff what drys like rubber I’ll use keycote, also patch is a bit easier to spread, I’ve worked for a few different solid plastering crews and they all do it a little different, as long as we get the same end results, back In the day we all did sand cement bullnosed it all and but it on 10-12mm thick and keyed it between coats now it’s all gone to this bag shit and it’s more a skim coat product in my option, you’ll know how it is it’s very demanding on the body so anything to make our job a little easier iam going to do it.

Sometimes I do or give the wall a bit of a damp if I need a bit more time with it, this product has all the bonding and additives in it and I add a little extra bond in the mix too, I like to give it 24 hours between coats with this product covers the block work up a lot better and stops the mortar joints showing through 👍

What is a self take plasterer lol iam qualified with over 15 years experience, understand your products before you have a judgement call on something you don’t understand, not once have I gone back to fix a job with this pre blended render you can render straight to the concrete without any drip mould or beads needed, blue board and other cement sheet rendering yes but it is not required for block or brick work with this product.

Yeah there’s not many renderers doing sand and cement anymore I know a couple of guys but it’s all this pre blended render makes our life’s easier lol, i don’t mind doing it if the job calls for it

100%

Thanks bro, getting better slowly, I’ll put it together soon 🤙

It’s a pre blended render product called rockcote (based in Australia not uk product) it’s fine sand cement with bonding agents and additive’s already in the mix, just need to add water. 👍it’s one of the finer products which the customer requested, you can get heavier more course products made by the same company.

Apologies for the late reply, there 3.5mm there’s different depths you can buy, 2.5mm for skim coating, I buy them from from a builders merchant called Lyndon’s, some Dulux stores sell them and other paint shops that sell render products usually have them along with render centres. 👍

100% 👍

It’s a render product called rockcote off white

Yeah mate Australia, iam from the uk moved over 15 years ago

What context do you need irrigation for ? If your talking about needing water for rendering the wall and finishing it you don’t need a irrigation system for that you just need water for mixing and finishing it, if your having plants or vegetables behind the retaining wall and you need water for growing then possibly,

@@millsfitness4742 I meant a french drain system. Seems pointless in having one if you live in the desert. Yes it rains but not a lot. Oh one last question if you dont mind. How come some people put rocks down before concrete? Other just put concrete down on compact dirt. Is it the same reason depending on how much rain that area gets?

I wouldn’t bother then, you only need a drain in if your using it to divert water if there’s no house near by or it’s not a big hill side we’re water will run to the retaining wall I don’t see and issue not putting one in the ground will soak it up before becoming a problem. it’s hard to say without seeing the job or what your trying to accomplish with this retaining wall your putting in. Every country has there own systems of doing things as I’ve worked in both Australia and England, being from England we always put aggregate down and whacker plate it before concreting, Australia they put something called crusher dust down pretty much looks like powder but it works. If your putting a footing down you won’t need aggregate or anything for that, only when your doing a slab, dig at least 350-400mm deep that is plenty for a small 2ft retaining wall 👍

@@millsfitness4742 thank you

Appreciate it

I’d preferably do two coats on most things especially block work or recessed brick work, because it’s was only a small wall and painters were booked in I had to get the job done in a day, 👍

Was going to ask the same thing I always do a scratch coat but that wall looks amazing 👏

@@MrStevieb00 usually on prick work and block I always do a scratch coat 2 coat system, unfortunately I had to get the job done in one day as I had another job booked it, so I scratch coated it gave it an hour or two then topped it. 👍

@@millsfitness4742 great job pal stick in👍

I actually have, it depends what adhesive you use this old stuff I used to have was brilliant never cracked but unfortunately they stopped selling it so when I moved onto a different adhesive I had airline cracking around the beads and it became boxed, instead of ripping the beads of I applied neat bond over the beads and then rendered over the beads once I removed all the loose render and it never cracked, my advise is apply the beads with render beforehand or to save time and work use a small paint brush to apply bond over the plastic beads and then render. 👍

@@millsfitness4742 Thanks for that. After seeing how it goes when getting wet I was getting nervous. Might go back to using render again. Cheers

No worries mate, Safer bet I reckon, all the best

Hi mate, there plastic ptt beads, standard in Australia 👍

Thank you so much for the reply. Keep up the good work my friend! 👍🏼

Thanks mate, I use tin snips to cut them easiest and quickest way, it depends what iam doing, retaining wall like this I’ll always do the tops (horizontal ) first then the corners, if iam doing a window I’ll do the two vertical reveals first then the head and sill you get a more accurate cut that way, you can use normal render to stick them with just add a bit of bond with the mix to get a more solid fixing, I like the pre blended patch and prep because it sets really hard but it’s just personal preference 👍

@@millsfitness4742 thanks bro, doing a small job and you’ve just answered my questions perfectly. The Bunnings videos don’t show you everything haha

No worries mate, glad I could help hope everything goes well 🤙

It’s a pre mixed bag render called rockcote, it’s an Australian product

I explained the steps of the process of rendering a wall, the important things I explained, the actual application of render takes practice which you only learn by doing, which I thought was self explanatory I guess not in some cases.

@@millsfitness4742 James is just a tool,pass no heed on him..Beads look super accurate too👍

Qld Australia

That’s fine, I used sand cement years ago and back in the uk, there’s different rockcote products to achieve certain finishers, the client wanted a smoother look so I went with the off white which the sand is a lot finer giving the desired look, yes because of how that product is finished with a scratcher float and it’s silicone based which is similar to our texture in Australia, our texture can be tinted so it doesn’t need to be painted and finished with a plastic float, very similar looking finish to the Krend 👍

rockcote.com.au/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7ffztrfe8QIVoZJmAh26gA6CEAAYASAAEgLGn_D_BwE Rockcotes website with all the products they sell, local place for me to buy it is lyndons builders merchant, they are a lot of paint shops that also sell it (Australian product only)

polystyrene attached to a diamond float

@@millsfitness4742 Which one do you prefer?

Polystyrene, not so rigid makes it easier to float with in my opinion 👍