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Depends on the size of the whole. But for me at such a small pinhole. Usually it was around 3 mins. It's trial and error, but well worth the back to basics. Good luck!

Thanks for watching! I'd like to make more videos to share ideas and thoughts. Let me know if there is anything you'd like me to push ahead on!

Yes, all safety and PPE should be worn. Gloves, goggles, and plenty of ventilation. Safety first and to always be aware of the working environment. Tan line? I just catch that sun so easily when it's out. Thanks for watching and reminder on safety.

@@Iamjustamodelmaker of course, safety first! i just noticed it because currently debating to invest in one of those new electronic watches. currently looking into glues for acetate sheets /cellophane, i am using a gorilla glue but it streaks. need to do more research

Hey ya! Thanks for watching, hope to do more content to keep the vibes up!

Hi ya, I've not tried that method before. What are you trying to assemble and what type of finish are you after??

Hi ya! Photographic paper. Directly through the pinhole, carefully transferred in a light proof back before developing in a dark room.

There are other photo papers out there. One of the reasons I use Ilford and kentmere, is because I know roughly the exposure times for making contact sheets and prints. This saves on wasting too many sheets to get the desired timings.

I put photographic paper in the camera, typically kentmere or Ilford multi grade. Once you get the hang of it, you can try your hand with film too. Have fun, good luck!

Well I can't help it sometimes, making stuff is what I get up to all the time ;)

Hey ya! Thanks for watching and giving it a go! I can't remember exactly but it was the size of the pinhole, once calculated it did take around 2-3 mins even on a bright day. Chemicals used for developing, the usual develop, stop and fix solution. Hang and let it dry, then good to scan. It's worth the experiment :) good luck!

@@Iamjustamodelmaker hoping to do it with some students, thanks for your response! Very helpful

Hey ya! Thanks for watching. I took a box of B&W photographic paper in a dark bag. Making sure I had a spare light proof sleeve to store the exposed shots. Then once back, I developed them in one session. Good luck, have fun!!

Hey ya, your contribution is great. It depends the knowledge and opens up more experiments ;)

And Im just a movie worker/ tile guy!

You would probably like to know how to mix the emulsion and its ingredients huh? Its gum arabic and ammonium dichromate and a little distilled water! Mix it in an airtight jar with a good lid. Sorry I dont remember exact amounts but I do remember it wasnt too too critical as long as it was an even coating onto the paper! Experiment with just the gum arabic and distilled water first before you add the AD. Make sure when it dries its an even coating . too thick add a little distilled water. Its not hard to figure it out and it goes a long way so be frugal with the amounts! Good luck!

This process sounds really good. If only I had the time to check it out, I would and give it a go. End of April is coming and that day looms upon us again... Thanks for sharing and pushing the community. That's what it's about at the end of the day ;)

@@Iamjustamodelmaker glad to help!

It's that time of the year again!!!!

Hey ya! I'd like to move on with this and share some methods so I possibly mess up, so you don't have to ;) my favourite part is polishing the top coat.... Yikes that's the big deal, nice smooth paint, then the little OCD details I like ;) what do you say??

@@Iamjustamodelmaker headlamps, try to do all finishes of polishing and with foam pads to see what works, I was just curious about the printed interior and rims, considering we know the stock rims suck. However can you scan your sticker sheet? I have the Italeri mold and the revell decals has no engine label, pretty please??

I'd say the paint finish is always the show stopper for me. The little details too, but finding that balance is key. With resin 3D printing nowadays, even the clear pieces can be redrawn too.. it is a labour of love ;) time is the only thing I struggle on.

@@Iamjustamodelmaker i got the headlights from a Tamiya 993 gt2 kit, the steering wheel from a Porsche boxster 996 kit, the only thing I gave up on was the dashboard and the door handles like you mentioned, best of luck!!

@@emanuelrivera8048 hey ya, I think you're going the right direction. That 993 period was the last air-cooled and a few items rolled into the following 996. The item I've been thinking long and hard about is the rear arches with the vent, for the turbo S for my next build. The process of this has become very technical and I'm happy to make little steps to get specific vehicles made, especially in the 90s. That was a good time;)

Hey ya!!! I've not tried film before, but know it can work with black&white and colour film. But will need some experimenting. In this video I tried B&W photographic paper, it was good to handle and open to testing with different timings. Good luck! And have fun!!

Hey ya! Thanks for watching. I'd say save all of your exposed film for developing and carry out the process in one or two sittings. Funnel the chemicals back into a bottle to reuse. The strength of the chemicals does get exhausted. They recommend 8 rolls. I've tried the bellinifoto kit too, although longer in processing, but nice and works with other b&w film with clear carrier. I recommend a rotary machine though, as it takes a long long time to develop with bellinifoto kit. I promise you'll feel the chi plus achy arms developing by hand. Good luck!!

Hey ya! The loop is for thin super glue only. Make a little well from masking tape to reapply when needed. Once the glue dries on the applicator, burn it off using a lighter. Easy 😉

Hey ya! The paper is photographic paper so it is sensitive to light and can make images. You can also use film too if desired, even colour film!!! Give it a go and you'll be amazed!

Hey ya! Thanks for watching and kind thoughts. It's all an experiment and exploration with different mediums. Do give it a go. I've not tried colour shots yet, but have seen colour film pinhole done so it is possible. Hope to give it a go someone down the line. Have a fun!

Thanks for watching, more experiments and photography related items coming up soon.

🙄🙄🙄

I've tried UV glue for making structural parts for use with water ok. Dichloromethane is possible too, but have to check the joins are solid and surface contact is 100%. Best of luck!

Hmm, tricky to visualise your goal. Drop me a DM via Instagram, a sketch or photo of your project and I'll be happy to discuss further. Ciao

Hi ya! There are quite a few ways to do this. Currently testing a clear UV resin with structural properties on small pieces to hold water. In theory it is possible, but there must be a calculation for the volume and then thickness of the material. But if for an aquarium, I'd suggest glass, easier to clean and maintain. Best of luck!

Hey ya! What do you want to stick together??? Can give you a tip if you give me a better idea of your project :)

Hi ya! I'd say if you are familiar with chloroform stick with the winning formula. If it's a hairline crack and can be held together securely for a full contact join, I think you'll be ok. When there is damage and chunks of material is missing it's harder to repair with good clarity. Hope this helps, best of luck with the task at hand.

Hey ya! I've tried the fomapan developer with the fomapan R film only for the moment. There is another development kit by bellinifoto that should reverse other b&w films. I'm running tests at the moment in Different formats. I'm interested to know too and know of it's best settings. Coming soon ;)

Hey ya! Tha is for watching and hope it's inspired or given you an idea to make something similar to aid with your building tasks. I have a handful of tools I make for my tool box. Will share soon if of interest. All the best!

Once I'm done and happy, could share them. I've been off the kit for a while as I have been making some changes here and need to organise a new setup for the new year to post more content. Thanks for reaching out, looking forward to push more content soon!

With a long exposure, possibly. Contrast is key, or the image will be flat and murky. Also depends on the surrounding light and what you're focussing on. I can imagine light drawing photography could work too... Only one way to find out ;) good luck!

@@Iamjustamodelmaker I was thinking a shot through a stand of pine trees. With the moon shining through. It's across from my house and we often get fog moving in from a small river nearby. If I can get that shot it would be amazing!

@@lta6494 That's really dreamy and moody, nice! I think it can be done, but possibly too low light with a pinhole camera. If I were there, I would for sure give it a go. This could be something for a big aperture long exposure, but balance the light from the moon and the time the fog moves along. Wow! an epic scene!

Yes it is just black and white photo paper. Cheap and cheerful, plus there's 100 in a pack for some serious experimenting! Have fun!!

I used normal photographic paper, but you can also use film too! All in the name of experimenting and catching rays of light. Have fun!! ☺️

I tried it but it was only a white paper how can I convert to photo please share 😅

@@notgamerinsaan786 maybe check the side you exposed it. Test a sheet of paper by just exposing it to daylight and put it through the developing process. This will confirm the paper is working as it should. Then try it again in the camera you've made but for a longer duration. Please do calculate enough time for exposure as pinhole can be upto 2-3 mins in some cases. Hope this helps, let me know how you get along with the paper.

@@Iamjustamodelmaker I leave in day for about 6 to 7hours. My question is how to develope the photo 😁

@@notgamerinsaan786 hey ya! I used typical photo paper developing ratios. As if I was developing normal b&w negative film to photo paper. Your develop, fix and stop baths in order. But be very careful with the developer you choose. It can bite really quickly.

I'd go uv resin, but make sure that the brand your using has a tech sheet to show the structural ability. Not all UV rain glues are the same. Another consideration is the volume of water as it is a huge weight, the thickness of material is critical. Best of luck, if you need any further help, shout!

Paper iso isn't the same as film iso. But if you use one of these light meters, it's super low. Around iso 5. If it's a clear sunny day and you face the sun, the pinhole will create a halo or lense flare from the direct sunlight. Cool effect if it's what you're after. It comes down to some experimenting, part of the fun 😊 good luck!

Hey ya! This depends on your pinhole size, and enclosure depth. I'd run it through mr.pinhole for calculation. But in general it is a long exposure time of 30secs or more. When I did 8x10 film I exposed for 3 minutes at least! Every situation is different, and I think over exposing could help with the media type too. It's a big experiment, needs time to get that chi and feel for capturing light rays. Good luck and I know you'll have fun doing it, yes there will be moments of failure but it leads to better results. You'll be sweet!

The processing part has to be carried out in the dark. Essentially, it's pulling the paper out and jiggle it through the chemicals for a few seconds. I used a red light at low setting so that I could see what I was doing. Hmmm... I'll think of a way to show you and present the magic when it comes through as an image. Delicate though, as you only get one shot.

Glad you're focusing on the video, all details are important 😉

​@@IamjustamodelmakerI watched with intent the whole time. I was glued. Can't wait to make my own.

@@jasrenfro9856 hey ya! Thanks for watching and glad it's motivated you to get your hands on it! Best of luck and I know you'll have fun during the process. Remember it's an experiment, it took me a while but it was worth the journey. Have fun!!

Hey ya! There has been a shortage of this adhesive. A new batch would need to be made, what quantities do you require? I'm trying other products at the moment as an option. This could be a possibility for you. Will keep you posted.

Photo paper? For sure you can even find them on Amazon. Comes in different sizes, surface finish, not super pricey. Ilford is still around, Kentmere is an option. Have a little look, they are out there waiting for you :)

Thanks !@@Iamjustamodelmaker

Technically you could make them with any enclosure, that's part of the excitement and fun to experiment ;) looking forward to try more things soon

Well at least you can go fourth and push the boundaries yourself. Good luck, keep at it!!!

Thanks for watching and hopefully the video was inspiring to you. Skillshare is a good platform and I'm sure there could be more info of value there too. Bear with me, looking to do more content soon...

Hey ya! I typically use what is at hand, usually Kentmere photo paper, or Ilford multigrade. I have to say I prefer the satin finish as it gives a nice look and feel... good luck, and have fun if you give it a go!

Yep! Ilford make rolls of photopaper at huge sizes. Wouldn't it be mega to pin a piece to the wall and take a massive pinhole shot using your method. And develop it in a long planter pot??? Epic!!!

@carr869 hi Tom, I started off building kits and still have a huge stash waiting for assemble, don't we all ;) depending on your scale, I've found emulsion glue (aqua bond 50) for me the best. It's appearance is similar to PVA and dries clear. The difference I found is that it's more flexible and resistant to shocks once dry. I remember those 1:43 kits where you have to glue the clear film to the photoetched frame then finally to the resin body. Yikes it's fiddly but worth it, it's a hobby after all ;) best of luck, give it a go and see how you get along. If you're struggling to find some let me know I could possibly post you a sample pot :) happy building!