Thanks for the video! I didn’t realise you didn’t film a step so when I stopped I had a jug sitting unused! No problem though that’s my fault not using my head!
Yeah, with these chemicals mix the amount you need or develop a batch of film in one sitting. The chemicals have a limited life once open, hence I've got loads of exposed film in the fridge ready for the big session ;)
Hey ya! For the Fomapan R chemicals the temps given on the instructions are 20 deg plus or minus 0.5 deg on the first development along with the bleaching stage. Then the rest is plus of minus 3/5 deg. I ran mine at room temp and seemed ok for the whole process. Hope this helps. Good luck!
Hey ya! I've tried the fomapan developer with the fomapan R film only for the moment. There is another development kit by bellinifoto that should reverse other b&w films. I'm running tests at the moment in Different formats. I'm interested to know too and know of it's best settings. Coming soon ;)
Hey ya! Thanks for watching. I'd say save all of your exposed film for developing and carry out the process in one or two sittings. Funnel the chemicals back into a bottle to reuse. The strength of the chemicals does get exhausted. They recommend 8 rolls. I've tried the bellinifoto kit too, although longer in processing, but nice and works with other b&w film with clear carrier. I recommend a rotary machine though, as it takes a long long time to develop with bellinifoto kit. I promise you'll feel the chi plus achy arms developing by hand. Good luck!!
Kodak T-Max 100 is listed as suitable for reversal processing if shot at ISO 50 (overexposed 1 stop). Loved that film for prints. Even 8x10's showed no visible grain. Would this kit work for T-Max reversal?
Hey ya! Not tried the chemicals on other films yet, but you're right and the beauty of analogue is that we should experiment and go for the plunge ;) So to answer your question, there is only one way to find out... Soon enough when I have finished other projects on my plate I'd be up for some testing.
Hello! for me is not clear al all how to re expose to daylight for 30" for each side of the film. On technical sheet of the process is stated for this stage to use a bulb lamp 100-150w or something like this.
Hey ya, I did the daylight exposure in natural sunlight because it was a good time during summer. But I'm guessing you could do it through artificial daylight bulbs to the same effect. I'm running experiments on Adox b&w reversal at the mo and it's a different process. Can't wait to see the results. I'll share in due course. Keep it real and continue shooting film ;)
Thanks Sammy, I've not had the chance to shoot any more of these rolls that are in the fridge. But I do see a good quality in the film and the results. TIt might be time to go up a size and do bigger black and white reversal developments. Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a go next time once I've managed to shot this roll of 36. Cheers!
I notice that some of the very slow Kodak b&w slide films are listed as suitable for standard b&w processing, or am I missing something? I have very recently started to develop b&w print film, both 120 and 35mm, so far only with well expired film for practice.
Hey Ian! If you are referring to developing standard B&W film in positive slide, it is possible and the results can vary. Slower ISO speeds are suitable but do consider you have to play with the developing time and the actual camera settings on the shot. With normal negatives shooting the film is half the game, and if it's not right you can recover when you print the image. With positive slides, you only get one chance as once the film is developed and bleached there is no other step to recover low contrast and fix things. Get what I mean? But I'd say, have a couple of rolls of the same film and experiment. I'd like to try this too, but as the winter is coming, it'll be harder to find bright days and get that high contrast. Expired film is all good, just keep it cool in the fridge. I have film from 1982 and it is still good for general shooting :) Good luck in your experiments, and I'm sure it'll be ok when you get a feel of film, the chemicals, and maybe a stop more than usual on the camera. In the mean time I 'll make a note on my endless list of upcoming videos to possibly carry out these experiments too. I am super interested with the notion of using stand B&W film and making something more from it. till next time...
@@Iamjustamodelmaker Hi, thanks for the reply. I got my first very slow B&W slide film 0.8 ISO ( I still want to write ASA :-)) Kodak 2468 from Northern Film Labs here in the UK, it has NO sprocket holes. First try, I sent it for processing but they were all under-exposed, I was using a Saraber Goslar Finetta 88 camera as it does not have a sprocket drive, but it is limited in spec when the light got worse which it did. Second run was with Kodak 5302 3-6 ISO film in an Exakta VX1000 but the camera was only partially winding so the pics got more and more overlapped :-) I developed this one and had to guess the developing time DP10 1:5 for 8 minutes, I got my first images, great feeling. I have a roll of the same film loaded waiting for the sun. And a self rolled Kodak 5399VN no remjet 3-6 ISO in another camera. If you want to try one let me know. My oldest film I have is an 828 from 1957/8, and 35mm and 120 from 1974, some really odd film too. Cheers, look forward to your future video's, keep safe.
Hey Ian, I'm glad that you got some good results from developing at home. I used to develop at a small place but then my needs changed, Xpro, slides, Black and white positives, and yes the results weren't always what I wanted and still had to pay for the high costs. This was the turning point and I spent months in a windowless bathroom to test and experiment the chi in hand developing film. Sounds like you've got some golden olden film, amazing! Cherish them and shoot with care, as they don't make them like that any more. With the colder months and the lower light in the UK, I'll stop for a few months and then get back to some film I've got stashed in the fridge. I think next year I'll shoot large format more, it's the beauty of not having an enlarger to get prints that motivates me, plus the variety of film available. Good luck with the film and thanks again for offering your special stock... Take care!
Hey ya! Thanks for watching and dropping a comment. I have used quite a lot of black and white film over the years, but recently positive slides have become one of my favourites. You're right there are different combinations of b&w that I would also like to try to get my hands on. I'll do a video on standard b&w developing soon if you like just to compare some chemicals. Retropan 320 is on my list...
@@Iamjustamodelmaker i was wondering if you used other films than fomapan r to develop them a positive bw slides? I heard that tmax could be used. Have you any experience in that regard?
@@sightseeingberlin not yet, I've been doing some digging on emulsion types and some which might be similar to Fomapan R. I have found Rollei retropan 100 might work with its full transparency film. I've no experience at tmax but could give it a go sometime soon if you like.
@@sightseeingberlin Late reply, but you could technically do it with any black and white film. Now, the thing that makes B&W slide film different from most regular films is that they have a higher silver content, to aid in the double developing process, and a clear base, so the slides are nice and clear. So when shooting regular black and white, and developing them as slides, the quality depends on its silver content and base clearness. Films with lower silver content might make thin looking slides, whereas films with darker base coloring might create darker slides.
Hey ya, thanks for watching and spotting the finer details. The clearing bath was done for 2 mins as instructed after bleaching and cleaning bath. Maybe for my next roll I'll run it a bit longer to ensure a clearer tank. Let's see and check the difference next time. Thanks again for the tip.
@@Iamjustamodelmaker The brown appearence of the film after the bleaching stage is the deposit of manganese dioxide MnO2 which must be "decolorized" (reduced) to Mn2+ by the clearing bath (metabisulphite). You skipped the metabisulphite because if you try to mix it with the belaching bath it immediately turns clear. The film must be creamy yellow just before re-exposure. The clearing bath has also another function: to restore the film sensibility to light which has been lost in the bleaching stage. At the end you still have got great results because the Foma process is a very robust one.
Hey ya! I'll do more film photography as I go along, cameras, films, settings and post processing methods. If you enjoyed this video I will be showing more later as I do continue to shoot film and experiment in these areas. Ciao
Great video, not shot film for years. Tempted to give it a try after seeing this!
Thanks for the kind comments. I do regular day trips to get some fresh air. Happy for people to come along and shoot film. Cheers
Thanks for the video! I didn’t realise you didn’t film a step so when I stopped I had a jug sitting unused! No problem though that’s my fault not using my head!
Yeah, with these chemicals mix the amount you need or develop a batch of film in one sitting. The chemicals have a limited life once open, hence I've got loads of exposed film in the fridge ready for the big session ;)
Fomapan chemicals does not need any specific temperature during the developing?
Hey ya! For the Fomapan R chemicals the temps given on the instructions are 20 deg plus or minus 0.5 deg on the first development along with the bleaching stage. Then the rest is plus of minus 3/5 deg. I ran mine at room temp and seemed ok for the whole process.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
What's the difference between using this film and a standard bw and do the same process ?
Hey ya! I've tried the fomapan developer with the fomapan R film only for the moment. There is another development kit by bellinifoto that should reverse other b&w films. I'm running tests at the moment in Different formats. I'm interested to know too and know of it's best settings. Coming soon ;)
Great video, How can I reused mix solution?
Hey ya! Thanks for watching. I'd say save all of your exposed film for developing and carry out the process in one or two sittings. Funnel the chemicals back into a bottle to reuse. The strength of the chemicals does get exhausted. They recommend 8 rolls. I've tried the bellinifoto kit too, although longer in processing, but nice and works with other b&w film with clear carrier. I recommend a rotary machine though, as it takes a long long time to develop with bellinifoto kit. I promise you'll feel the chi plus achy arms developing by hand. Good luck!!
Kodak T-Max 100 is listed as suitable for reversal processing if shot at ISO 50 (overexposed 1 stop). Loved that film for prints. Even 8x10's showed no visible grain. Would this kit work for T-Max reversal?
Hey ya! Not tried the chemicals on other films yet, but you're right and the beauty of analogue is that we should experiment and go for the plunge ;) So to answer your question, there is only one way to find out... Soon enough when I have finished other projects on my plate I'd be up for some testing.
Hello! for me is not clear al all how to re expose to daylight for 30" for each side of the film. On technical sheet of the process is stated for this stage to use a bulb lamp 100-150w or something like this.
Hey ya, I did the daylight exposure in natural sunlight because it was a good time during summer. But I'm guessing you could do it through artificial daylight bulbs to the same effect. I'm running experiments on Adox b&w reversal at the mo and it's a different process. Can't wait to see the results. I'll share in due course. Keep it real and continue shooting film ;)
You can leave the film on the reel when you do the 2nd exposure.
Thanks Sammy, I've not had the chance to shoot any more of these rolls that are in the fridge. But I do see a good quality in the film and the results. TIt might be time to go up a size and do bigger black and white reversal developments. Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a go next time once I've managed to shot this roll of 36. Cheers!
I notice that some of the very slow Kodak b&w slide films are listed as suitable for standard b&w processing, or am I missing something? I have very recently started to develop b&w print film, both 120 and 35mm, so far only with well expired film for practice.
Hey Ian!
If you are referring to developing standard B&W film in positive slide, it is possible and the results can vary. Slower ISO speeds are suitable but do consider you have to play with the developing time and the actual camera settings on the shot. With normal negatives shooting the film is half the game, and if it's not right you can recover when you print the image. With positive slides, you only get one chance as once the film is developed and bleached there is no other step to recover low contrast and fix things. Get what I mean?
But I'd say, have a couple of rolls of the same film and experiment. I'd like to try this too, but as the winter is coming, it'll be harder to find bright days and get that high contrast. Expired film is all good, just keep it cool in the fridge. I have film from 1982 and it is still good for general shooting :)
Good luck in your experiments, and I'm sure it'll be ok when you get a feel of film, the chemicals, and maybe a stop more than usual on the camera.
In the mean time I 'll make a note on my endless list of upcoming videos to possibly carry out these experiments too. I am super interested with the notion of using stand B&W film and making something more from it. till next time...
@@Iamjustamodelmaker Hi, thanks for the reply. I got my first very slow B&W slide film 0.8 ISO ( I still want to write ASA :-)) Kodak 2468 from Northern Film Labs here in the UK, it has NO sprocket holes. First try, I sent it for processing but they were all under-exposed, I was using a Saraber Goslar Finetta 88 camera as it does not have a sprocket drive, but it is limited in spec when the light got worse which it did. Second run was with Kodak 5302 3-6 ISO film in an Exakta VX1000 but the camera was only partially winding so the pics got more and more overlapped :-) I developed this one and had to guess the developing time DP10 1:5 for 8 minutes, I got my first images, great feeling. I have a roll of the same film loaded waiting for the sun. And a self rolled Kodak 5399VN no remjet 3-6 ISO in another camera. If you want to try one let me know. My oldest film I have is an 828 from 1957/8, and 35mm and 120 from 1974, some really odd film too. Cheers, look forward to your future video's, keep safe.
Hey Ian,
I'm glad that you got some good results from developing at home. I used to develop at a small place but then my needs changed, Xpro, slides, Black and white positives, and yes the results weren't always what I wanted and still had to pay for the high costs.
This was the turning point and I spent months in a windowless bathroom to test and experiment the chi in hand developing film.
Sounds like you've got some golden olden film, amazing! Cherish them and shoot with care, as they don't make them like that any more. With the colder months and the lower light in the UK, I'll stop for a few months and then get back to some film I've got stashed in the fridge. I think next year I'll shoot large format more, it's the beauty of not having an enlarger to get prints that motivates me, plus the variety of film available.
Good luck with the film and thanks again for offering your special stock...
Take care!
great video, have you tried different films, such as adox scala or tmax 400 or any other?
Hey ya! Thanks for watching and dropping a comment. I have used quite a lot of black and white film over the years, but recently positive slides have become one of my favourites. You're right there are different combinations of b&w that I would also like to try to get my hands on. I'll do a video on standard b&w developing soon if you like just to compare some chemicals. Retropan 320 is on my list...
@@Iamjustamodelmaker i was wondering if you used other films than fomapan r to develop them a positive bw slides? I heard that tmax could be used. Have you any experience in that regard?
@@sightseeingberlin not yet, I've been doing some digging on emulsion types and some which might be similar to Fomapan R. I have found Rollei retropan 100 might work with its full transparency film. I've no experience at tmax but could give it a go sometime soon if you like.
@@Iamjustamodelmaker only if you want to. I might try it myself. I was wondering if the standard fomapan 100 would be suitable for be slides.
@@sightseeingberlin Late reply, but you could technically do it with any black and white film. Now, the thing that makes B&W slide film different from most regular films is that they have a higher silver content, to aid in the double developing process, and a clear base, so the slides are nice and clear. So when shooting regular black and white, and developing them as slides, the quality depends on its silver content and base clearness. Films with lower silver content might make thin looking slides, whereas films with darker base coloring might create darker slides.
That brown color is because you skipped altogether the clearing bath after the bleaching...
Hey ya, thanks for watching and spotting the finer details. The clearing bath was done for 2 mins as instructed after bleaching and cleaning bath. Maybe for my next roll I'll run it a bit longer to ensure a clearer tank. Let's see and check the difference next time. Thanks again for the tip.
@@Iamjustamodelmaker The brown appearence of the film after the bleaching stage is the deposit of manganese dioxide MnO2 which must be "decolorized" (reduced) to Mn2+ by the clearing bath (metabisulphite). You skipped the metabisulphite because if you try to mix it with the belaching bath it immediately turns clear. The film must be creamy yellow just before re-exposure. The clearing bath has also another function: to restore the film sensibility to light which has been lost in the bleaching stage.
At the end you still have got great results because the Foma process is a very robust one.
c u )
Hey ya! I'll do more film photography as I go along, cameras, films, settings and post processing methods. If you enjoyed this video I will be showing more later as I do continue to shoot film and experiment in these areas. Ciao