My Para 2 Maxamet is awful, chips with the most basic use ! Spoke with Spyderco and that sent the possibility that I got a lemon. But this explains so much! I’m sure it received a poor heat treat during the sharpening process. Spyderco won’t admit that there is a problem, but one of the guys at the factory store admitted the massive problem they’ve had and seemed to indicate this steel will be soon discontinued.
Its not a heat treatment problem, its that the steel is so hard it wears out the sharpening belts faster than normal and even when the belt is new it still takes longer to grind and causes it to heat up at the edge and if it gets too hot it will damage the heat treatment at the edge but its fixable by sharpening out the burnt steel. Maxamet is a awesome steel, you just need get to the good steel and get a good edge on it
cool upload man great info. hope to someday see the Spyderco sharpmaker on the channel. in my experience microbeveling Spyderco's already very-slicey edges gives them an almost scandi type touchup that removes minimal steel. Sal Glesser literally built the brand off of that system (:
The problem with that is ending up with a wire edge which is simply a burr that is straightened out so you think its deburred but it’s not and then you go to cut something and it tears apart. Plus if it’s still tearing apart, you haven’t gotten to the good steel yet. I know it’s annoying and frustrating but it’s the difference between a edge that will last and one that wont so to me it’s worth the effort. 🤷🏻♂️
Just saw you said “stropping” which yes is always edge trailing however you want to debur on the stones if you can. If it’s crumbling or difficult to debur id strongly suggest you grind away some more steel and try again till your edge is stable.
I got a burnt edge PM2. I thought I was crazy because anytime I would go below 600 grit the apex would crumble away. I thought this could have just been a nuance with Maxamet but it’s not. I guess I just have to work on the blade for a while now,whomp whomp…Thanks for the great video!
Hi Sean, instead of chasing the burr at the end of the sharpening where you are doing 1 & 1 per side to minimize the burr. I like doing an away from the edge 1&1 stoke from tip to heal after doing a couple 1&1 into the blade strokes. The away from the edge stroke will straiten the burr up so the next set of into the blade 1&1 stokes will definitely minimize the burr to nothing. For me this method works awesome for finalizing the blades burr. I have found on steels like S110V & Maxamet this method work perfectly for me. Give it a try it might help. You may think nope not for me. Great video I look forward to the next. I still need to get over to the shop for a shape up. I’m a Kent Island resident. Later.
That’s a good idea on increasing the angle to get past a burnt or comprised heat treat on the edge. I really like that upgraded stone holders from tsprof as well, definitely one of things people should buy first after learning to use. I wonder if you have tried the compound edge TSPROF talks about?
Thanks, I had to learn it the hard way through trial and error just like everything else lol! After a knife takes 14 or more hours it definitely encourages you to find solutions and this is by far the best method I’ve found to deal with overheated edges! And unfortunately I have not tried that before and not really familiar with it.
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL 👍 TsProf did a video about compound edge. In my opinion it’s like a convex edge( parabolic or positive curvature)but geometric or straight lines with different grits as the angle is changed. So think 400 grit change angle 3-6 degrees, then 600 grit change angle 3-6 degrees, 800 and finish to your preference with that steel. Advantages like a convex longer lasting edge “supposedly”. I have only tried it on a Spyderco tenacious 8cr13mov which is beater for me. I takes me longer now to dull an edge, now that I don’t have a job where I am cutting all the time (think low voltage data work).
thanks for the info, can you sharpen all of your Spyderco on the single clamp from TSFPRO ? was wondering if you can sharpen as small as the Spyderco Manbug whose blade is less than 2 inches ? Thanks
I was planning on sharpening my Maxemet PM 2 tonight when I turned TH-cam on and seen your video. First of all would like to say it's good seeing you do another sharpening video. I have 1 question, what angle were you at on that one it looked good? I like a nice shiny wide bevel.
Great strategy of essentially going for a compound bevel with the high angle! Tha ks Sean! 🤙👊
My Para 2 Maxamet is awful, chips with the most basic use ! Spoke with Spyderco and that sent the possibility that I got a lemon. But this explains so much! I’m sure it received a poor heat treat during the sharpening process. Spyderco won’t admit that there is a problem, but one of the guys at the factory store admitted the massive problem they’ve had and seemed to indicate this steel will be soon discontinued.
Its not a heat treatment problem, its that the steel is so hard it wears out the sharpening belts faster than normal and even when the belt is new it still takes longer to grind and causes it to heat up at the edge and if it gets too hot it will damage the heat treatment at the edge but its fixable by sharpening out the burnt steel. Maxamet is a awesome steel, you just need get to the good steel and get a good edge on it
Manix 2 LW Maxamet is discontinued in 2025. Other models are not.
Source: Spyderco forum
What stones works best for maxamet
Been waiting on a new tutorial. I always learn something new from each one. Many thanks!
I know, I kept you in mind haha! You’re welcome brother!
cool upload man great info. hope to someday see the Spyderco sharpmaker on the channel. in my experience microbeveling Spyderco's already very-slicey edges gives them an almost scandi type touchup that removes minimal steel. Sal Glesser literally built the brand off of that system (:
That’s a wicked edge 🔥
For stropping strokes I’ve been using edge trailing-away from edge- strokes to avoid tearing out apex.
The problem with that is ending up with a wire edge which is simply a burr that is straightened out so you think its deburred but it’s not and then you go to cut something and it tears apart. Plus if it’s still tearing apart, you haven’t gotten to the good steel yet. I know it’s annoying and frustrating but it’s the difference between a edge that will last and one that wont so to me it’s worth the effort. 🤷🏻♂️
Just saw you said “stropping” which yes is always edge trailing however you want to debur on the stones if you can. If it’s crumbling or difficult to debur id strongly suggest you grind away some more steel and try again till your edge is stable.
I got a burnt edge PM2. I thought I was crazy because anytime I would go below 600 grit the apex would crumble away. I thought this could have just been a nuance with Maxamet but it’s not. I guess I just have to work on the blade for a while now,whomp whomp…Thanks for the great video!
If you do like I said in the video it shouldn’t take you too long!
Gorgeous knife!! ❤
Love the rig man
Thank you!
Hi Sean, instead of chasing the burr at the end of the sharpening where you are doing 1 & 1 per side to minimize the burr. I like doing an away from the edge 1&1 stoke from tip to heal after doing a couple 1&1 into the blade strokes. The away from the edge stroke will straiten the burr up so the next set of into the blade 1&1 stokes will definitely minimize the burr to nothing. For me this method works awesome for finalizing the blades burr. I have found on steels like S110V & Maxamet this method work perfectly for me. Give it a try it might help. You may think nope not for me. Great video I look forward to the next. I still need to get over to the shop for a shape up. I’m a Kent Island resident. Later.
Awesome video!!! ❤
Nice WORK AS ALWAYS!!!
Thank you!
Awesome detailed video!! I appreciate you sharing it. 👊
You’re welcome! 👊🏼😁
That’s a good idea on increasing the angle to get past a burnt or comprised heat treat on the edge. I really like that upgraded stone holders from tsprof as well, definitely one of things people should buy first after learning to use. I wonder if you have tried the compound edge TSPROF talks about?
Thanks, I had to learn it the hard way through trial and error just like everything else lol! After a knife takes 14 or more hours it definitely encourages you to find solutions and this is by far the best method I’ve found to deal with overheated edges! And unfortunately I have not tried that before and not really familiar with it.
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL 👍 TsProf did a video about compound edge. In my opinion it’s like a convex edge( parabolic or positive curvature)but geometric or straight lines with different grits as the angle is changed. So think 400 grit change angle 3-6 degrees, then 600 grit change angle 3-6 degrees, 800 and finish to your preference with that steel. Advantages like a convex longer lasting edge “supposedly”. I have only tried it on a Spyderco tenacious 8cr13mov which is beater for me. I takes me longer now to dull an edge, now that I don’t have a job where I am cutting all the time (think low voltage data work).
thanks for the info, can you sharpen all of your Spyderco on the single clamp from TSFPRO ? was wondering if you can sharpen as small as the Spyderco Manbug whose blade is less than 2 inches ? Thanks
Haven’t tried the manbug yet but I don’t suspect there would be any issues!
I was planning on sharpening my Maxemet PM 2 tonight when I turned TH-cam on and seen your video. First of all would like to say it's good seeing you do another sharpening video. I have 1 question, what angle were you at on that one it looked good? I like a nice shiny wide bevel.
That’s ironic haha! Good to see you too and I did 15° on this one, that’s what I like for most of my Spydercos!
You from/in Bmore?
@@georgespicer907 yesir