วีดีโอ

It looks like it only available for pre-orders. Is it available now? Also, will it be available in different colors?

How does this product sand compared to PPG 321?

Sooo, where do you buy this stuff? I cant find anything through searching.

I wish I had known about this product a month ago!

I'm a detailer. Excellent points about not having uniform shrinkage with different coatings on substrate. Thanks for raising the bar! I'm getting close to pull the trigger on the linear block color sanding system.

So I assume you can use it as a sealer also ?

Aluminum tape works really good for me

In the last few years I've started putting the bodyfiller over the Epoxy, but in all honesty I've never had a problem put it over cleaned bare metal for over 50 years. Not one single come back in all those years.

Doors of a Mustang SN95 are shaped in different angles, inside outside sweep up and down. How is the blocking with this linear tool? Do you have a tutorial for the SN95 kind door blocking?

Regarding orange peel, is it the same wet blocking for plain black wich has no clear coat?

sorry but i have to say this is one of the worst fiberglass jobs ive ever seen. It started all wrong from step 1.

Shit i`m putting glaze on every edge from now on lol

Badass tutorial appreciate. I need to make my own linear block from a PVC pipe and acrylic sheet. I am in Turkey, they are not available here unfortunately. How about a thinner acrylic sheet on more rounded fenders like the Mustang SN95?

Those exhaust flex fittings will fail. Get the vibrant models, they can handle the heat.

for avoiding the lines ghosting back, I have had success with adtech P17 filler.

If you draw on the tinfoil with a sharpie where you want to cut, it will transfer to your first layer of your fiberglass.

Fiberglass is lighter anyway. But I can play with metal lol been doing it a long time.

That is not Bondo that is body filler Bondo is a brand

If i broke through to metal and need another filler session could just 5310 or 2050 it and filler over?

I appreciate you calling out other manufacturers by name. If you sell something to the public, you should be selling something that works, or you should be called out for not doing so.

Some of the old filler would not stick to some metals as some primers. Youte living in the dark ages as far as epoxy is concerned Lowered new dtm primer filler like z grip that stick better than epoxy We don't use epoxy because it creates suction in clear coats scratches. It makes another hundred bucks for something that's only pushed by utube beginners that 5:01

Thanks for this! I have an area that i put epoxy primer and need filler. So do you sand at all or scotch brite, before filler?

Nice comparison, real stuff, not some hack opinion.

What’s the process for cleaning and degrease blasted panels , thanks

Can you do my rear taillights for my 70

What about filler overtop fiberglass corvette .thanks

rub on the blue one like the panels lol

Is this primer UV safe? I want to just get my truck in primer until I can get the rust repaired and may be outside sometimes. Thanks.

Any plans for gray or black? Curious why you chose blue?

Very cool test, thank you for doing that. I have been using KD3000 for a long time now and can honestly say I am a bit disappointed in it. I am definitley going to try out your stuff. Is it going to be coming out in different colors or tintable? Thanks again and love the videos!

Wonder how one would do with and etch before a high build. Prob the same if not worse but it would be interesting to see

Is it compatible with all paint systems or only certain ones.awsome product

I use kd3000 and cre all the time in my shop, so I’m kinda disappointed in their performances. Definitely going to try the l411 out

I like the test. Email says my order is on the way.

Why didn't you test the PPG DP-90 🤔

When talking about blasted panel, how do you clean ? Can’t wipe it with rag , can it be washed with hold tight ?

👍👏

U sound like a computer

Can you use it over aluminum?

Great info !

Thanks for the video!👍

Fantastic video again.

Thanks for the video. I have used naval jelly, rust mort, fast etch, etc. Rust is a party foul for sure. I have also used naval jelly and a wire wheel to clean out rust in deep pits. Gotta get rid of it or encapsulate it with POR 15. What do you use to neutralize the acid before epoxy? Acetone?

After those 2 treatments what is the maximum time you can leave the bare metal before epoxy? Thanks

I just looked at the TDS on corroclean. It’s citric acid based, which is weaker than the usual phosphoric acid washes. That’s why you keep it on overnight as it takes longer to act. I like ospho full strength in a spray bottle, but every one has their tried-true methodology. Cheers

Blasting stretches metal by the Poisson effect. Bad idea to blast outer skins.

👍✌️

This is a great idea for restoration. But, your filler is too expensive. You can get Optix Super Build for half the price of your product, it's a DTM and you magically left it out of your your test. It finishes out the same as G2, just a little more money with so many more benefits. I can get 3 gallons spray-able ( that's 10 quarts)for less than 5 quarts of your product, so the solids remaining after dry is a way better dollar to ratio game. I get you're following in the Re labeled Dura-Gold paper as your own "thing", but you can only beat a horse so much.

👍

Thank you for sharing!