As I have been watching your videos ans learning a lot. My question centers around the jambs and the hood/trunk jambs. How are you addressing these after epoxy.
I currently use kd3000 surfacer/ sealer. Its a hybrid so allows me to use it for alot of steps...im curious to see how this works amd wait till they answer some of the questions in the comments
Is this tintable or going to be available in different colors? I like the color, I just like my bottom layer to be a different color so I can see if I am sanding through the top coats of primer. Also, how is the corrosion test coming on the primers? Thanks and love the videos!
@@RS-gh2mf there is a lot of differences between this and DP 90. This is a sandable high build epoxy. This is meant to be used over bare metal and then also used as a high build primer surfacer after filler work.
This is a great idea for restoration. But, your filler is too expensive. You can get Optix Super Build for half the price of your product, it's a DTM and you magically left it out of your your test. It finishes out the same as G2, just a little more money with so many more benefits. I can get 3 gallons spray-able ( that's 10 quarts)for less than 5 quarts of your product, so the solids remaining after dry is a way better dollar to ratio game. I get you're following in the Re labeled Dura-Gold paper as your own "thing", but you can only beat a horse so much.
For one ever coach, Superbuild is a very cheap product, they claim DTM, but most manufacturers definition of DTM is that it sticks to metal, that does not mean that it has any sort of corrosion protection, which it does not, and this product far out builds any ever coat spray Poly and shrinks far less. If you have not, I’d suggest you watch the shrink test video. You definitely get what you pay for.
Any spray poly cannot truly be a DTM primer being that they are activated by peroxide, and also very porous and breathable. Spray Poly breeze, moisture in and out, if you do not have Apoxsee before spray poly that is a recipe for disaster, long-term. Spray poly is a thing of the past. Our product also has rust encapsulation properties as well as moisture scavengers, which Spray Poly definitely does not
How do your products measure up against Glassurit or Spies Hecker in terms of quality?
Like the color. Ready to see some hands on sanding
As I have been watching your videos ans learning a lot. My question centers around the jambs and the hood/trunk jambs. How are you addressing these after epoxy.
What’s the process for cleaning and degrease blasted panels , thanks
I currently use kd3000 surfacer/ sealer. Its a hybrid so allows me to use it for alot of steps...im curious to see how this works amd wait till they answer some of the questions in the comments
When ordering, is the L-421 included with the L-411 or is it sold separately?
Sold as a kit, l-421 comes with 👍🏼
Looking forward to trying it!
Is this tintable or going to be available in different colors? I like the color, I just like my bottom layer to be a different color so I can see if I am sanding through the top coats of primer. Also, how is the corrosion test coming on the primers? Thanks and love the videos!
So when wil it be available and the price
Website says preorder $375 for 5 sprayable quarts and expected to be in stock for late Nov. So probably very soon.
What's the difference between DP-90 ?
@@RS-gh2mf there is a lot of differences between this and DP 90. This is a sandable high build epoxy. This is meant to be used over bare metal and then also used as a high build primer surfacer after filler work.
@@linearblockingtools4064 what’s the pot life? And is there different colors?
can this be used over aluminum
Yes
What are your thoughts on comparisons to VP2050?
Check out the shrink test videos on the channel 👍🏼
Id like to try this
👍
This is a great idea for restoration. But, your filler is too expensive. You can get Optix Super Build for half the price of your product, it's a DTM and you magically left it out of your your test. It finishes out the same as G2, just a little more money with so many more benefits. I can get 3 gallons spray-able ( that's 10 quarts)for less than 5 quarts of your product, so the solids remaining after dry is a way better dollar to ratio game. I get you're following in the Re labeled Dura-Gold paper as your own "thing", but you can only beat a horse so much.
For one ever coach, Superbuild is a very cheap product, they claim DTM, but most manufacturers definition of DTM is that it sticks to metal, that does not mean that it has any sort of corrosion protection, which it does not, and this product far out builds any ever coat spray Poly and shrinks far less. If you have not, I’d suggest you watch the shrink test video. You definitely get what you pay for.
Any spray poly cannot truly be a DTM primer being that they are activated by peroxide, and also very porous and breathable. Spray Poly breeze, moisture in and out, if you do not have Apoxsee before spray poly that is a recipe for disaster, long-term. Spray poly is a thing of the past. Our product also has rust encapsulation properties as well as moisture scavengers, which Spray Poly definitely does not
Also our paper is far better than any “duragold” private label, they don’t even make a purple ceramic paper but ok, move along bud
Dig the car . Suicide doors even 😮