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Faster is better :D🤷‍♂

@tangibleday whatever works for you. Maybe my gun is too small, my tip keeps clogging with a 1:1 primer and tamiya acrylic thinner

Awesome. You're welcome :D

I need to keep them short because editing is soooo slow ;) love the comment thanks :)

A black primer will not the same as a paint. Hobby Primers are designed to shrink as it dries to smooth out surface imperfections in a model. This makes them unreliable when mixing or thinning applications for blending or other advanced miniature painting techniques. Use black stallion paint for normal painting. Just use the black primer for undercoats to prepare the model for “regular” painting. Here’s a blog post I wrote with some more info. tangibleday.com/5-professional-miniature-priming-tips-for-best-results/

@@tangibleday Thanks for your answer and your blog :)

Hah yeah I know about black 4.0. It’s on the radar but I hear it’s got an extra texture that makes it less useful for miniature painting. Stick around! I may buy a bottle cuz now I’m curious 👀:)))

I learned that after I uploaded the video :D

Thanks! I did test GSW black stallion because it came in a kit. But I’ve heard amazing things about maxx darth. I’m still trying to do a few more how to videos first. Editing is slow :P

Agreed. I noted that in another video. But the difference with or without varnish is subtle and both test models got the same varnish treatment. Also it doesn’t matter either if the models are handled. If you don’t varnish, it defeats the purpose of using black 3.0 on gaming minis. Can’t really touch it, safely. Varnish is a must for practical reasons.

I’ve heard that too. But this works great for me the way I show you in the video :)

Hi! An often overlooked problem that may lead to the primer not sticking to your miniatures is the need to clean the model first. Miniatures often have a thin layer of oil or lubricant on them that repels primer or paint. Try washing your models/miniatures with warm soapy water, letting them dry completely, before priming them. This may solve the issue you're having! GL :D

@@tangibleday ah I was hoping to avoid having to wash my minis but it something that I'm gonna try at this point. Thank you for replying and the advice!

@@theyseemefishin a quick 5 second rinse would do it, and I totally get you. I hate washes the dishes too :)

Stay tuned…. There are more. These blacks happen to be the most common at the moment.

I gotta get my hands on it!

Yes! I heard great things about Model Color.

Yup. Those are the paints most already have available/own and still in stock in many places. Will update. Thanks for the note!

I'll add to this that black 4.0 from Stuart Semple is also out now, though you can still buy 3.0

Yup I saw that. It’s not cheap :)

Ah good to know on tox for blk 3.0. I did varnish the paint, so maybe that keeps the aerosolizing of the pigment low. Also, another commenter said it works best if it’s airbrushed but I didn’t think that was necessary here. I will take a closer look at the other two blacks you suggested! Those aren’t well known to miniature painters but could be interesting to try! Thanks for the comment about pigment load (max vs high)… I’m learning quite a bit putting these tests together. :)

@@tangibleday I work as a material applications specialist within the coatings industry and we recently just started testing hobby products as a few companies have broken a few federal laws by shipping banned chemicals, chemicals that require specific labeling before sale, or have very deceptive marketing along with other things and I'm watching videos just to gauge. So feel free to ask any questions, I've been into scale modeling myself for almost 30 years now and do like talking to people within the hobby about this stuff. I would also avoid spraying black 3.0 as its micronized carbon black which is insanely carcinogenic and can cause a lot of health issues when inhaled unless you have proper PPE. Depends on the varnish, most artist ones are a removable layer for cleaning so what they are designed to do is yellow and flake off to protect against environmental contaminants, with some also having something UVLS which protects the paint from fading as quickly. Not all varnishes have thing. Automotive is one of the best for protection but can't stop a lot of things and a lot of the beloved hobby products like dullcote and model masters are actually in rustoleum's main line now too and for a much cheaper price. Golden is sort of known in this hobby as I've seen a few mini painters review it and most seem to love soflat, turner however is completely unknown to most people and is a complete sleeper it. Oh one small minor thing that doesn't matter as I know you guys mean something else by it, but coverage in my industry is a calculation of how much surface area a bottle can cover with a complete coat with no splotches or missing spots and has little to do with opacity. Covering power is the metric for opacity and its based off a public 4 grade scale and an internal 8 grade scale. This is only important to know if you start learning pigments or use professional paints as these are the terms they use, this also applies to house paint. Reflectivity would be sheen. Anywho good video. 👍

I gotta try the maxx darth!

+1 for game color. though I think their model color range is really good.

Not liking a particular brand because 1 particular color of this particular brand is slightly worse than it's competitors is not a healthy way to think

@@AfaroX8 it's not a particular color. It's every color I've used from them.

Note that this is old game color, while new game color is pretty darned matte

@@jorgemontero6384 yup I’m gonna check it out. The new GC stuff is kinda of new

Matt Black (Army Painter) $4-6 USD - amzn.to/4beHXyx Blk 3.0 (Stuart Semple) - $45 (much, much bigger bottle) www.culturehustleusa.com/collections/paint

Ah yeah I heard that too. I didn’t airbrush it for obvious reasons in this comparison. But for tabletop minis, the brush on approach was needed for black 3.0. Yeah def varnishing will affect the overall appearance. I’ll have to check other reviews for different blacks I don’t own. At a certain point, you gotta ask “when is it black enough?”. Maybe there’s a point where it’s all diminishing returns. 😂

Ah yeah this is the Vallejo version most people have at the moment but I’ll check out the new stuff soon. I’m also interested in the AP fanatic line. But I have so many paints now it’s hard to justify new out of pocket purchases just to “try em out”. AK 3rd gen sounds interesting… though it’s hard to source locally for me. I’m loving the Army Painter Matt black tho. Thanks for the comment!!!

@@tangibleday Fair enough, I live in Spain so its pretty easy to find and cheap at 2,75€ per bottle. I havent tried the new Vallejo MC yet, but I did try the new GC. I like more AK than both the new/old GC and the old MC.

@@hav6301 Ah, yeah, isn't Vallejo from Spain originally? You may also like the Green Stuff World black. It's pretty competitive in terms of how well it works. I think GSW is actually a brand located in the EU, too. In general, I've been pretty happy with the entire line of Army Painter paints. Citadel feels overpriced for what it's capable of. I tend to avoid them unless I need a color and can step into local game store to pick up a pot, quickly. Definitely check out Vallejo Model Colors! They are some of the favorite paints for the super competitive, award winning mini painters.

@@tangibleday Vallejo, GSW, AK and Scale75 are all Spanish. Vallejo is found in every store and AK lies just behind. Scale is a bit less common but easy to get online. GSW regular paints are mostly only found on their website

Ah nice! I used to use Privateer Press P3 black a lot but it’s hard to find around nowadays.

It really is shiny✨

There are good reasons it’s popular! It mixes well and flows easily off a brush. Also, I have two bottles of it myself!

Awesome. Yeah I love Reaper paints too. They dry really matte. The tabletop wargaming model from Privateer Press. It’s called a Fane Knight (part of the Retribution of Scyrah faction).

@@tangibleday great! Hopefully I can find them

@@travman228 they are rarer now as these are an older production. eBay or other forums would be a great place to find these minis !

@@tangibleday hey thanks for the low down, time to hunt

Hey! Good question. Just use paint undiluted. I load the dry brush from a wet palette, so there may be some extra bit of moisture but not much. Look how I touch the dry brush to the side of the painting handle before painting with it. You want a “regular” paint moisture loaded on the brush to use the drybrush for base coating. I hope this makes sense and is helpful.

@@tangibleday Incredibly helpful! Thanks!

Thanks!

Yeah it’s the older stuff too! Thanks for the mention. Gonna have more I hope soon !

Hah I’m going thru my unpainted collection now!

Yeah, totally! I bounce between the two methods myself, but if you’re going fast there will be compromise :) 😊

I could do that yup. I have those brands :)

@@tangibleday I was meaning just generally, as they are the newer kids on the block, but ill take it, because that's perfect. Finding a good yellow pain is so hard. Only had three but hold of them had been bad

@@aaronwindham6065 ah, the yellow paints in the video are the ones I’d recommend most. I use them for my mini projects. I have the others because… well buying paint I don’t need is a bad habit :P

@@tangibleday I here pink is difficult too, but I have limited experience with those to colors. Not a lot of pink in my necron paint schemes lol

@@aaronwindham6065 hah yeah pink can be hard but it’s a rare color for main color schemes. I’d say orange or white is a bigger problem :)

Welcome! It’s so fun to use too :)

Yes! I was pleasantly impressed by the gsw paint line. I have almost all of the colors now.

Yeah it’s a good way to get primer on a mini without the hassle

Thank you! 😊

Thank you so much!

That’s the “Rule of Cool” at work I guess. Lol

Awesome. Yeah, it helps to see that others are doing the same process. I learned a lot over the years from painting miniatures with others. Thanks for the comment!

Yeah I agree. It also depends on the kind of black material. Push contrast too high and it looks glossy black rather than matte cloth.

Hah yeah I love this approach :) thanks for the support !

Thanks so much! 😊

Probably :D