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HVAC service tech here. You would get better performance at the air coils if the water is kept from 50 to 55 F. You will get more noticeable temperature drop in the rooms. The next thing would be that you have what is know as a superheat measure to modulate the water flow. If you keep the flow so that you can get about 10 to 12 degrees of temperature rise then your system will work more efficiently. If I had my own place to setup something like this, that is how I would run it.

Hi, Thanks for this! Will be trying my first sill repair first, then a replace on a window sill that definitely needs a replacement.

Some have said this is a colonial - it is not. In 1776, the colonies were absorbed into the newly formed United States.

what I need is a hvac heat pump that heats my water heater tank (which happens to be right next to my HVAC unit) in the process of running the AC. Should be an obvious and easy idea right? Why nobody offers this?

how much are these heat pumps ?

you have set the manifold backwards that is why it doesnt show the flow and it doesnt flow enaugh so switch the pipes and you will be ok

I would almost avoid the buffer tank for cooling, unless you want to charge it at night when power rates are lower. Also the hot return should be going to the top of the tank, and the cold supply should be coming from the bottom of the tank for your fan coils, the heat pump should be pulling from the top of the buffer tank and feeding the bottom in chill mode. If your tank temp was 58F you should be getting close to that for your coil supply side temp not 70ish, I think you have some unwanted mixing going on in your buffer tank.

I would remove the zones and balance the system out, it will perform much better and be more efficient especially if you can use weather compensation

Awesome job! My big question with Arctic's method of utilizing the HBX as an outdoor reset controller is that it seems to negate the variable speed benefits of the heat pump control. Variable speed algorithms usually rely on the delta to the setpoint to ramp up and ramp down capacity control. Since you are effectively making the programmed setpoint higher than the desired outdoor reset setpoint, it is not possible for the heat pump to try and load match to maintain your setpoint, thus it will tend to run at a capacity higher than required, overshoot the desired setpoint, and then HBX control will shut the heat pump down. Its a shame Arctic couldn't figure out something with their supplier to implement outdoor reset in their native controller, but oh well, its better to have outdoor reset control, and if you are running a buffer tank, the HBX style control is essential for allowing the off cycle to last long enough for the buffer tank to release the stored energy. In my unit, the temperature of the loop is read inside the monobloc unit and when the heat pump circulator turns off, the heat pump no longer knows the temperature in the buffer tank. It guesses wrong and turns back on again too soon. The temperature sensor on the long cable from the heat pump is meant to go into a domestic hot water tank, so I don't think its doing any good going in your buffer tank. Are you using a domestic hot water diverter valve in your setup, I didn't see one. I'm interested to see the data from your logger, that looks like a cool setup. How are you estimating or measuring the flow rate in order to calculate heat output? Nice work!

Nice job. I was thinking of putting the pump power from the heat pump in the second conduit but it works there. It seems the Eco 600 is a bit of overkill... vs Eco 400. Or did you have a reason? The extra temp and power consumption monitors are super cool and you can dork out on data later Im sure. These projects are like a 2000pc puzzle!

Amazing! Certainly above my understanding!

Great job though

Good job after all and congratulations in using those professional equipments so well. I'm not an handyman at all, I'd rather paying professionals to do the job... if I had the money... that's why I do by myself! 😁 In my place, I wanted to get rid of all carpets (surprisingly, I found tons of sand under them... yuk), but I had not idea how to work with the hardwood floors. I also borrowed a big belt sander from Home Depot, hoping to make it quick but I gave up after few minutes (it was sanding too much...). Eventually I did the job with a small orbital sander from Bosch; the square shape allowed me to sand the corners very well. It took obviously a while but it came decent. I then finished it by staining it and applying a double layer of oil based satin polyurethane... still tempted in today's days to go gloss or semi-gloss, but it would be harder to keep it shiny, specially if you have dogs.

Love your can-do attitude.

You did a really good job, as far as my opinion counts. I'm just a guy, btw. Never done this, but I've been dreaming about a house I wish I could buy that would need its floors sanded and youtube recommended me this video. Super useful to see the progression I would probably have gone through as well, with trying to use 'normal' tools then realizing I should have rented the equipment. Oh, and that house I'm looking at also has wood stairs. You reckon the edger would do that job?

OMG. I didn't watch all of this video until now and didn't realize how many times you took it apart. You can get through anything now. Nice to see where you had issues though from a selfish reason. One question. I heard you need to put more wraps and/or thicker tape on the big joints. Did you try that at all? Good on ya for the effort.

Great thorough job! I like how you didn’t skimp or cut many corners. Something that I’m usually guilty of. Love the sounds of the birds and kids. Thanks for sharing your experience

Man, that was a huge job!! But I've got to say that you guys are tremendously blessed to have such a beautiful piece of land. Good luck with your knee surgery, and take the time you need to rest and recover fully! God bless you all! :)

Great job

Lovey home as-is. The colors are great the way they currently are.

Hate to repeat what you’ve probably heard a million times before. Before running any engine you should ALWAYS check your oil. If you would have, you would have seen it was loose and you would’ve tightened it up naturally.

Nice work. I am planning a similar unit for heating only in Colorado. Loved that you admitted and showed your mistakes. Takes guts on this site. One thing in the instructions was using a loctite product on the tank. Maybe that would work better on that? Loved seeing it all put together and with your mistakes--helps others not repeat. I did see that same error hooking up the manifold backwards or similar. Would love to see more of these. Would you take questions as DMs?

What’s the name of the tool you are using to put the trim , I mean the nails

Teflon and pipe dope everything. Soft set like monster brand.

Great job you did Beautiful video

It sounds like there’s a lot of issues you have with is old house, that’s what I’m hearing from you?

Why doesn't anybody show the actual removal of the deck and belt???

I read the other comments and responses and it looks like overall you are not thrilled with the Spacepak fan coils. Did you get a chance to compare them (on paper or otherwise) with other options like Chiltrix? I am not sure if the Chiltrix and Spacepak fan coils are the same rebranded units.

your home seems to have been built in New England somewhere by a local architect in Greenwich ( can't recall his name) who did a lot of homes in the 1950s however he designed these homes to look like they were built in the 1700s, do you have any paperwork from 1785 about this house?

lol you have my luck with that storm window, make one thing great and then something else comes up. I would said just shim it in like 3 spots on left side of the trim and put that installed behind the trim and tin snip the bottom off if it doesnt fit once trim removed. Nature fixed it though

Were you able to reuse the shingles?

I wish I was there with you installing the system. I would give you lots of pro advice 😊

FIreplace is a STUNNER. ALl old houses havve different trims throughout, that is part of an old house!LEAVE the original brick GORGEOUS!

That pediment over the sink is c.1950's-my parents ranch style home had the exact same pediment.OMG don't rip it out! :{ THAT kitchen is GORGEOUS AS IS. This kitchen with the SOLID WOOD VINTAGE cabinetry is perfect- today's junk from China is so sub par- the low quality, not even wood in most cases, the ugly dumming gray tones, UGH and doe NOT belong in historic houses!

Great job! Love the interesting "core sample", lol. And your boys are adorable! :)

Why do you not like the fan coils? Was debating between central air handler and fan coils for my own place. Thanks for sharing.

Fun following your progress as hard to find diy on air to water heat pumps in the US; Im looking to do same thing. Sorry to hear about all those leaks! Looking back, are you happy with the Arctic heat pump & space pack fan coils? Weee you able to buy direct or suggest inline retailer? Im in the mountains of CO. Thanks again!!

Your wife, Mary is a superwoman for getting in that tight space! Good job installing the unit.

You can get rid of scallop trim over the sink and add a pendant. I bought a 130 year old house with no cabinet doors. I ordered doors prepped for glass for the upper cabinets. I’d paint the cabinets and authenticate Colonial color with black hardware. Fabulous house.

WOW I never would have known that a disassembled garage , especially a large one, could be loaded on to such a long trailer. I didn't even know there were such types of long trailers, I've never seen one where I live. So - am very glad I saw this video, as it looks now like it could cost me a lot less to transport the garage I was after than I had realised!

I have the same storm window setup. When I replaced my windowsill I debated putting the storms back on just like you did. I decided to reinstall the storms and now I'm having doubts because I actually think they trap moisture and are responsible for accelerating wood decay. They also do little to stop bugs (spraying is the only thing that seems to stop that problem) and I don't think they're doing anything to insulate the house. I have 3 or 4 more windows to do and I'm thinking about ripping all the storms out. I'm curious, how's your window working out without the storm in place?

You are working hard and it is paying off! You have a beautiful home.

It's looking really good! So much work, but it's so worth it. Such a beautiful old house, and you both are preserving it! Happy Spring to you and your family! :)

Another vote for not painting the kitchen wood white.

Correction to previous post - RRP Rule*

I’m going to suggest 2 things for this system. The first is get a whole house surge suppressor and the second is to put local surge suppressors on both the outdoor unit and the indoor power circuit. It is cheat insurance and will protect all of the electronic components.

You are very patient. I hope your perseverance pays off!

Great job! Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for sharing this video with a lot of good ideas to little by little make this old colonial home come alive and be functional for a young family with boys and a dog. The kitchen should be restored to nice plank board wooden floors, a shaker ovular rug and the cozy table to have informal meals with the family. Since it is a colonial I would use colors like blueberry blue, olive green, white, light muted yellow, perhaps for the formal dining room a light salmon muted color or followed the light pastel yellow from the kitchen to the dining room. White granite floors for the bathrooms, subway white tiles and white pedestal vanities and toilet and bathtubs with claws all white clean and timeless also the boys will love the bathtub as oppose to the shower stalls. Note: You already know this but caution at all times when the boys are nearby the brooks surrounding the property and the pool. All the best.

Always use tape and dope. You left no way to isolate and drain the water pressure from your expansion tank for checking air pressure in your bladder, always use a expansion tank valve. The unit I assume is 5 ton or 60k BTU. Im not sure where you live but most old and drafty homes in eastern PA require 80 to 100 K. It will be interesting to see how long its lifespan is. Heat pumps in this area usually go 12 to 14 years although your monoblock should be a lot less to replace labor wise.