Air-To-Water Heat Pump Part 2: Installation & Plumbing
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ส.ค. 2024
- Mounting the major components inside and plumbing the heat pump loop
0:00 Buffer Tank
1:27 Mounting Components to Plywood
11:55 First Time Using Pex-A with Expansion Tool
17:56 Exterior Plumbing
21:10 Arctic Heat Pump Rep Feedback
24:48 Insulation
28:40 Buffer Tank Base
31:16 Planning for Future Expansion
Email us at betweenbrooks@gmail.com - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Maybe I missed it, but what brand PEX are you using? Is it oxygen barrier? I'm in the process of installing my own monobloc system and running copper for everything except the radiant heat tubes. Thanks. Eric
I'm using Uponor oxygen barrier pex a. I still wonder if I should have done copper for the main heat pump loop, it would have looked cleaner but I don't trust my soldering skills that much... Thanks for watching!
Nice video, thanks for sharing. Where did you get your pipe insulation from, looks nicer than what I was able to find. I'd be curious to see how condensation affects your setup when you run air conditioning, as its pretty tough to insulate circulators, valves, etc.
I got my insulation from Supply House. It's KFlex product, definitely not cheap but nice to work with. I started the system in August last year (videos are only slightly delayed lol) and the condensation is real. I never had any issues in the house, but the exposed valves, manifold, etc drip. It's not a big deal for me since my basement is crushed stone floor and I run a dehumidifier full time. But you would definitely want to do a very good insulation job if this was in a finished space
Makes sense. I guess spray foam is always an option for a really tough shape. I read that circulators are generally made of cast iron and will rust eventually in a chilled water system but I guess it depends on how good their coating is, but doesn't sound like its been a killer for you.
that is a monstrous buffer tank :L going all underfloor heating? Im gripped to this series haha ( edit ) answered my question already, how come you didnt use the heat pump for hot water also ? and have you thought about running your underfloor on open loop rather than zoning ?
We will have a combination of air handlers, fan coils, and underfloor heating when all is done. We may add hot water in the future but it will require a second tank (one hot and one chilled in the summer). By open loop do you mean just a constant flow and let the fan coils cycle as needed? Practically this is essentially what happens, since I have three zones all tied to one pump. There are very few times all three zones are off. When we add underfloor loops to our bathrooms I will likely run those without thermostat control, they will be heating only (closed during the cooling season)
@@betweentwobrooks perfect answer, yes we have started running open loop, although tbh you have the buffer in hand which means cycling won't be a major issue, in the UK most homes can't accommodate a buffer Aswel as a hot water store, so installers don't use them, we then find the heat pump cycles quite badly due to the small volume of water / heat required for only a couple of zones. Therfore we remove all trvs and actuator heads from underfloor systems and find this runs a lot more efficiently and if anything, gives a more even temp throughout the house. Obviosally we don't support cooling from our heat pumps ( it can be done ) but not supported by most manufacturers.
What is the price per kwh. How is this cheaper than oil
Over the last three years we have paid an average of $0.29/kwh for electricity and $3.75/gallon for oil. Assuming 75% efficiency for our boiler (probably optimistic) and average COP of 3 for the heat pump this works out to $35.25/ million btu for oil and $27.82/ million btu for heat pump. But it's not just about cost, our boiler doesn't provide air conditioning...