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How do you hook up the charger? If you need to replace the charger. Where does it plug in at ?

Thanks for the video! Have you guys found any good line for these things. The line we have just gets eaten up. Also when you touch the head to get more line to come out you have to keep taking the head apart because the line gets pinched on its self.

how did you get the chair on the rail before installing?

No gloves?

FYI, where the tape was has no effect of sealing or not. the seal is created by the ferrule or dual ferrule which ever the case is, NOT the threads.

My start but won't stay running what is the problem

Installed mine it’ll start then die tried adjusting h l and idle won’t change anything any advise ?

Great job! Thank you for all the detailed video and instruction.

I bought mine 4 years ago used. Cost me $900.00 and an electrician friend installed it…3 rd owner. Much cheaper than a new one.

Hi! Can we adjust the chair in order to mount it on different steep stairs?

Is that a chubotay ?

Come to think of it, i just have to wonder how the hell those selling these things asking like S$16000 to 22000 to install something like this ?!?!!!

Hi, It looks so simple. I want to know if required length is larger than how to extend to. Thanks and wait for your reply and do I need to make sure to left or right side or it works on both sides.

Just a question: how is this wh holding up after 3 years. How's it money wise ?

Take the main needle out first before separating the halves and you won't bend it like you saw happen here. I love how he is like "Don't know how that happened!" - LMAO. I'm like "You bent it!" There is no way you could put that needle back in and have it be adjustable since it would not seat in the jet correctly. He then calls that needle the jet. It is NOT the jet, it is the main needle. The jet is the small brass screw with a hole it in it that the needle bottoms out into, and is how you adjust the fuel flow rate under load. Also, no one calls the carburetor bowl the 'sediment bowl". The sediment bowl is the glass bowl where the fuel flows into the carburetor. And that test he did blowing cleaner out the throttle? Absurd. That is not how you test a carburetor. The fact that the tractor started is a testament to the fact that these old Marvel Schembler carbs run like champs and have WIDE tolerances as the engine isn't that picky. My 1957 Ford 640 starts every time, although I DID just rebuild the carb and replace the rusted out exhaust pipe and manifold. If you really want to see how to do this - go to Rachell Gingell's site, and save yourself having to buy a new main needle!

Who needs Ethanol in your fuel when you can just pour the water strait in...Brilliant?!! I use the pure gas too in generators, mowers & things like this that may not get used much. Stuff actually starts when you need it

It's been 3 years. I'd like to know how the paint is lasting.

That's not how you load a speed feed 😔

do you have a video how to loose the clutch from my trimmer..it's a Stihl FS45,it's run very badly,only for a few seconds...had Ewen the carburettor loose..

Good video I am doing that now educational use cuz I'm installing one now just like the one you have

I actually do like pulling trim. The tool is excellent, but if all i had was regular pry bars all you need is a block of wood to spread the surface area of what you're prying against. A block also gives you additional leverage. Pulling trim has never been hard, but this tool does make it a more efficient process as a 10 year finish carpenter.

Always remove the main jet needle before you split the carburetor or you’ll bend it

Thank you Mr. plant man! Awesome illustration, Ill be doing my gator this week for sure!

Worst video for showing how to repair a carburetor on a 2 stroke I have ever seen! So much not done and so much important info missing, imo your asking for it not to work!

Good video

Thank you. This helped me fix my fs 40c for a few dollars. It had git to point would not run at all. Had been down on power and sluggish for a while. Put a new spark plug that was correctly gapped and cleaned my totally blocked arrestor. It then fired right up, full power with no sluggish throttle or delay. Tip, find a very thin screwdriver so you can fit between the thin slots of the engine cover. Wire brush worked perfect on it, took maybe 5 minutes total to remove, clean and reinstall.

i used the same kit that lasted 2 years now the adjustments are all out of wack and wont stick.

Thank you

thanks for the vid

How much is the unit me install it

Update: I just put this cheap carb onto my trimmer. AFTER 2 pulls!!! It started right up. I was like WOW. NO adjustments. On cold start I closed the choke. Then when it tried to start I open the choke. I was about to throw this thing in the garbage.

Just grabbed one for my FS55R. That thing has given my hell for 3 years. I will give it a shot. Great addition seeing’s you adjust the idle.

One of the best carb cleaning video's I've ever seen Thanks for secret tips I keep a lot of those crush washers gaskets for that style fuel filter You can also test your float after assembly as you did by simply lightly blowing into fuel line and raising and lowering the float as you did.

BUT HOW DID YOU HOOK UP AND INSTALL THE CHAIR ITSELF, YOU JUST SHOW ISTALLING THE RAIL???

I ordered that kit, supposed to be here by Thursday. The price was $17.88. I have the same thing that the check ball is missing.

What about the maintenance problems?

GREAT VIDEO, BUT HOW DO I GET A REMOTE FOR THE 120? NEED ONE BADLY!!! THANKS

Is that a jubilee?

Where are you guys? Iam in Canada and I need someone to install it for me

It is now $13.88.I just ordered one. Thanks for the video and link!

Enjoyed your video with a few questions. Are the crimpers available to rent? If there is no drain nearby, any suggestions for catching the condensate or simply using a pan work? How much condensate would you expect? I’m sure on a humid day in a garage you’d get quite a bit. Another comment regarding using teflon tape. Besides getting a better thread seal, where you’re using dissimilar metals together the teflon provides an insulator preventing galvanic corrosion. This is true with any two dissimilar metals including stainless steel to steel. The steel will act as a sacrificial anode and corrode. .

Good luck finding fuel with no ethanol. A minute added adjusting while engine running would have been a nice bonus.

Excellent video! You've walked through every step so perfectly!

👍

An older video, but very relevant to my experience with this tool. I bought mine and used it over several days in very rocky soil, putting in uprights for a retaining wall. It worked great. I drained the fuel, ran it out, and stored it. Six months later... nothing. Couldn't get it to run at all. I practically rebuilt it and still couldn't get it to run. I now have a nearly brand new, inoperable, earth auger. Money not well spent. I am curious to know if yours is still running. I have read numerous stories about this and other brands that just stop running without an obvious reason.

Great video.

Thanks a lot, you just gave me the confidence I needed to do it myself! And saved me at least 1500 CAD! Cheers guys!

Thank for a nice comprehensive video. You demonstrated with confidence. I will be doing this same project in a few days and look forward to the savings. Based on my general experience that I bring to the project I'd like to offer a few thoughts to benefit others contemplating this task. The galvanized elbows were not the best choice. Brass is forever and safe. I plan to intentionally not pipe above the unit. It's an invitation for leaks or condensation to do damage. This also streamlines filter servicing and is a lifesaver if the bonnet ever has to come off. I have concern that that the pipes will be subjected to water hammer effect since the PVC or PEX shown is braced. When insulating elbows, snipping the foam at 45 degrees to create miters can provide virtually full coverage. Those cold water brass PEX fittings will drip with condensation. It is important to also insulate the entire cold water size to prevent condensation. This is double important when running over the unit. Even in Maine, cold lines will sweat a lot in the summer. A heat trap loop is recommended on the cold water intake to prevent convection cooling. I have not seen anyone do this. However, it's very easy to include heat trap nipples at the tank exit. They are simple check valves that only allow intentional water flow. Some codes require the addition of a mixing valve on the hot water line. This does 2 things. First, once you set it to the desired temperature it will blend cold water to maintain the set point in the event that the hot water over heats. Scald prevention is the objective here. In practice this valve may barely function if you are set to perhaps 120F. Most of these heaters are running merely on the tank's control's to ensure a safe output. Secondly, it makes it possible to run the water heater a little hotter, knowing that say, 130F water will be diluted down to the desired safe temperature. This can extend the capacity of the hot water in the tank. It's not the most efficient mode but it can have it's uses. I saw the expansion tank topic mentioned in other comments. If there is a check valve at the city water supply or well expansion tank then an expansion tank is need to accommodate expansion of the water as it's heated. Running Romex down to water heaters seems to be an accepted practice, at least it used to be. A junction box at the ceiling with the conductors in a seal-tite flexible conduit whip offers more protection an looks neater. You can use the same copper wires. Again, thank you for a nice video.

Nice video... highly recommend gloves. Latex is my preference because I get a "true" feel of whatever project I'm working on. JD 825i or my Z355e Zero turn or my 22" J21 or my ::::drum roll::: 3032e Tractor.

I installed one of these yesterday and will remove it and return it on Monday. The heat pump fan is so loud, over 70 decibels, that you could hear it throughout the house.