วีดีโอ

Great idea! I ran out and unplugged that connector, and my Auto Start/Stop light went out… but my F-Type still cut throttle when both brake and throttle pedals were applied. So no effect.

Good idea. These experiments in the video were done with Dynamic Stability Control ON, and I will run the experiments with DSC OFF and TracDSC.

Yupe… the throttle cut out still occurs in DSC Off, TracDSC, and DSC On modes. I also noticed that the brake pedal does need to be depressed more than a minimal amount, to trigger the throttle cut out.

@@OncaEngineering I'm guessing the logic for the behavior runs off of the brake light circuit. Makes sense. I was thinking that if the logic ran based on wheel speed sensors/abs sensors, etc that it might be integrated into the DSC system.

I am glad you like the content. Any favorite playlist, or is the diversity fun? My 2017 MT had a 2nd gen clutch which was slipping horribly after 20 kmiles, so that motivated me to develop alternative solutions!

You are most welcome Will. I am glad you are enjoying your Quaife helical torque biasing rear differential, it is a great upgrade for the base model V6's. On the clutch recommendation side, I am investigating one final refinement to the Sport Touring application. See JaguarForums for latest details. www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f-type-x152-72/f-type-clutch-replacement-options-260824/page4/#post2766321

I can totally understand your interest in the F-Type Manual. It represents the final chapter of an iconic formula; powerful engine up front, gearbox in the middle, and rear wheel drive out the back. And of course is doesn't hurt that it is styled beautifully, outfitted with leather and has an amazing sound track. Your V8 conversion of the 300zx is also a fun project, but on a bit of a different level. The F-Type Manual has more reliance on electronics than the old zx, and it has less support from the aftermarket, so one has to plan ahead carefully when doing projects on the F-Type. Good of you to read up on the Jaguar Forums, and I appreciate your support on the YT videos.

I am not familiar with the vapor canister, but you could look at the jaguar repair manual on the Jaguar Forums and do a search on key words.

Ok.. Now I am confused. After returning from a 250 mile road trip, my F-Type’s TPMS control module is working again. (No light on dash, no warning, and it reports the actual tire pressures).

Alpha Albert, if you look at my channel, you will see a brake pad exchange video. I opted to transition from OEM pads, to the Porterfield R4-S pads. My experience so far has confirmed the assertion that the pads are less dusty, and still reasonable friction coefficient. I found that my brake rotors were still within specification, so I had them “turned down” by a local shop with a brake lathe. This was about $50 per rotor, which is more economical than purchasing new OEM rotors… but also not as cheap as leaving the old rotors “raw” and slapping new pads on the car. It all depends up on your interest. A) are you just looking for basic maintenance? Then slap new pads on your F-Type and let the pads bed in to the old rotors. B) are you hoping for some smooth operation? Then have your rotors cut down by a few thousandths. C)You need your car to be 100% stock and Jaguar trophy ready… then buy new rotors & pads. Here is a link to the video… th-cam.com/video/QTzwHiRj274/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared

@@OncaEngineering great info, thanks for the video recommendation will check out ✊

Jason, I have tested several clutch combinations… including the organic disc mounted “backwards” with clutch pack to flywheel side. The only minor annoyance that I found after a few thousand miles was some “stuttering” during low RPM engagement. But this could also have been from the previous clutch history which caused some warpage of the flywheel friction plate/heat shield. (Testing out the full range of clutch engagement over Torque and speed). So I think you have three options for your plans of a “mildly tuned” V6 Manual. 1) do nothing, keep milking your OEM clutch setup until you are ready for an upgrade. 2) upgrade to the light weight Aasco Motorsports flywheel and organic friction disc. (Perhaps using my newly specified ACT friction disc with correct orientation of the Marcel springs or metal mounting flags. 3) eventually upgrade to the 6-puck sintered disc as you explore your F-Type’s full potential.

@OncaEngineering Thanks Herman. Option 1 is not an option as the clutch is slipping on my early year 2016. I am weighing out the options of the OE gen 4 or aftermarket lightweight. Have you tested the new ACT and 6 puck discs? Can you provide links the flywheel, plates, and disc options? Greatly appreciated, I found your video very helpful as I intend to tackle this myself.

Jason, yes, I have tested several combinations of parts. Some of the parts are exclusive to Onca Engineering, some are available on the open market. We can discuss via email. OncaEngineering@gmail.com

I have not yet invested in SDD. I was getting TPMS error codes on the dash, so I decided to just swap my faulty TPMS control module with a used box off the web for $20. Presto! It worked. No more errors and all tires reporting pressures. But I would like to learn more about SDD.

beside of brand new Jaguar diff from dealer which is too pricy...

Sael, you can buy a base model V6 manual, and then add a LSD rear differential from an V6S model (used on eBay) or an upgraded helical ATB from Quaife via Onca Engineering. You can also get a tune on the engine and get >400 hp. The manual F-type is very rare, so finding one will be difficult. Good luck.

@@OncaEngineering thank you for the quick response. I want to do drifting and extreme Motorsports, so is there any aftermarket brand new LSD differential? Also it would be amazing to educate me how to turn 340hp to 400hp or make a video about it. Probably so many Jaguar owners want to do that and you are the best source all around the world. Thank you

@@saelmahdavi3995 Sael, for extreme motorsports, I recommend the OEM LSD from a V6S model, and updated with the clutch pack from RacingDiffs. (The OEM carbon fiber clutches fail prematurely, so the Racing Diffs ceramic clutch discs should have longer life). For tuning, see VAP website, and join the Jaguar Forums for more discussion of modifications.

Joseph, I am glad you liked the content. There was a good follow on discussion on the Jaguar Forums on this topic. Regularly clean out the vent pipe with a zip tie, and change the oil more frequently if driven aggressively.

Agreed, very disappointing. This Jag LSD from an early V6S operated for about 35-40 kmiles. I took apart a second used LSD unit with about 30 kmiles on it with the same issue. Please check out my more recent LSD Rebuild video where I install an upgraded clutch pack. I also have inspected OEM and upgraded LSD units available on the shelf.

Can do, its on the list.

Luc, Great to hear your 4th gen clutch is still working. My 2017 car came with a slipping 2nd gen clutch so that helped motivate me to explore upgrades. I will probably also investigate a ceramic 6-puck clutch disc for higher torque applications (tuned cars).

@@OncaEngineering that would be fantastic. I've swapped both pulleys on mine so I have to be extra sympathetic with the clutch. Would be nice to be able to let loose a little more.

Thanks. Great to hear you drive a V6S MT, and I understand your interest in maintenance and supercharger info. I will try to include more costs, and I did share the cost of the Quaife upgrade at the end of the latest video. Note: the Quaife upgrade is about $1700 ~$2000 for a rebuilt unit and returns on cores. The lightweight flywheel and clutch kit is about $2400. Both upgrade kits are less than or comparable with new OEM parts from Jaguar.

Will, great to have your enthusiasm. Your 3.23 gear ratio was shipped to your auto shop. Tell me how it turns out.

Joey, one of the diff units was media blasted and then sprayed with an anti corrosion primer and hand painted with gloss black rust oleum. This turned out to be labor and time intensive, and also added risk of getting abrasive media inside the unit. Plus the core group of forum members who joined me on the builds didn’t gravitate to this option so it was dropped. I think applying a brushed on paint after rebuild may be reasonable. You could pick any color you wanted…

Yeah.. yellow paste and bluing aren’t applied here. If the pinion gear depth is set correctly, the only adjustment is the ring gear axial location. Applying a new carrier into the housing essentially has two adjustments find the bearing pre-load, and then set backlash by shifting shims left or right.

I have seen technical drawings and figures of the front differential on the AWD cars, and it appears to be an open diff. I am not sure if it is based upon a Ford unit, or if Jag specified their own. I would think that upgrading the rear differential from an open diff to a Quaife ATB to be of very good performance value. Do you have thoughts on the value of changing the front open diff to an ATB?

@@OncaEngineeringIs it part of the oil pan like the R35 GT-R? I am wanting to know the limitations of the diffs after the Quaife upgrade. I'm seriously considering buying a F-Type R and putting twins on it to chase after some of these F150 race trucks.

@3ducs The base model F-Types had open diffs, the V6 S models had friction LSD’s, and the V8 models had electronically controlled LSD’s. I have developed a helical geared torque biasing rear diff with Quaife out of UK (who make Torsen style diffs for Jags and many other cars). Look for the other videos on Onca Engineering in the PlayList to see those videos.

@@handhwiegman8115 Thank-you. My V6 is an S with 33,000 miles, it appears to be operating correctly, though I don't drive it hard so I'm not the best judge of that. It's been off the road since November here in New Hampshire, I won't expose the car to salt. The Tata steel parts are in good condition, the car is out of North Carolina and hasn't been driven in snow.

@@3ducs Good to hear, your S model is running well. I am south of you in RI, and I sometime come up to NH to run at Loudon or Tamworth race tracks.

@@handhwiegman8115 That Tamworth track is beautiful! I live about 15 miles from it, I doubt I'll ever get on it but I did drive around the access road, wonderful track, beautiful views of the NH mountains surrounding it.

Check out MassTuning. www.motorsportreg.com/events/masstuning-trackfest-jun-14-2024-club-motorsports-156895

James, I specified the Quaife ATB for the rear differential on modern Jaguar V6 and I4 engined cars. Note the V8 F-Types usually feature an electronically controlled rear differential which is a bit more complicated. The front differential is smaller than the rear differential. AWD V6 cars can still benefit from a Quaife equipped rear differential. It just has to maintain the same gear ratio to match the front differential ratio. Do you think there will be good value in upgrading the front differential to a helical ATB?

I wonder what the front differential looks like on the AWD Jags… they could be based upon a Ford unit, or perhaps an other application that may offer an LSD upgrade. It just takes a motivated individual to purchase a unit from a junk yard and attack it with some calipers to get the ball rolling.

@@OncaEngineering I appreciate the reply, I'm seriously considering building an ultra high horsepower all-wheel-drive F-Type to compete against some of these F150s that are running the streets. Diff strength is very important. Your Quaife upgrade gave me hope.

Glad to be of help. You can do it!

Great to hear of your interest. Look for an updated video in a week's time or so.

My pleasure. And you will soon have a new diff for your F-Type. I will be building units after testing the first one. But first i have to get my back in order after torquing it making this video!

Howard, this ATB should work with most Jaguars equipped with the Dana 44 AdvanTEK rear differentials. This covers most 4 and 6 cylinder gas powered Jags from 2014 to 2024 (F-Pace, F-Type, XE, XF) take a picture of your rear differential and i’ll get back to you. OncaEngineering at Gmail dot com

Jon. Great to hear. Check out the videos on the LSD tear down.. and i will also post a new video on LSD rebuild. Sorry to hear that your car’s shifter feels mushy. The rear tranny mount isn’t the stiffest, so could use an inspection. Or do you see any engine tilt under torque?

@@OncaEngineering Not sure about the engine tilt, I'll investigate as soon as the car is out of winter hibernation. I'll get back to you in a month or so. :)

Yeah, I was motivated to develop this solution which is lower maintenance than the S-model LSD, and applicable to more than just one gear ratio (3.31:1) and I really want better cold/rainy day grip, as well as better corner exit grip. I think an upgrade kit for the rear differential is within many home mechanics capability, let me develop the tool list and publish the instruction set to gauge interest.

Thanks for your complement. Sorry about the mic issues. Still learning my equipment.

Great to hear! I will soon release two videos on rear differential upgrades, as well as a light weight flywheel kit. Do you ever get to the track or AutoX?

Thanks Randal. What topics interest you the most?

CR, yes, I am developing a “conversion kit” for those wanting to move away from the V6 Manual’s dual mass flywheel system. This would include Lightweight Aluminium Flywheel, Bolts, Clutch, and T/O Bearing. I am beta-testing the kit with two enthusiasts right now. You can e-mail me to get more info. OncaEngineering at gmail dot com. Great to hear you picked up a 2016 Manual. Lets keep them running their best.

Will, you are most welcome. I am running "stock" tire sizes on my Jaguar OEM 19" and 20" wheels. You can get all the tire sizes here: tiresize.com/tires/Jaguar/F-Type/ You can also experiment with wheel sizing a bit (rim width, and hub offset), but I would caution you to stay close to Jaguar OEM specs, otherwise you will impact the steering centering on the front wheels and possibly rear wheel dynamic steering effects. But I can understand your desire to reduce sprung weight.

Will I also found the OEM Wheel sizes... with widths and offsets, available on the net. www.wheel-size.com/size/jaguar/f-type/

3ducs. I am glad you like the content. HermitTheCrab (couple) have done a great job documenting their F-Type engine rebuild story. I hope to see them post more once the car is back on the road. Look for Land Rover / Range Rover repair shop as they may be more common than pure Jag shops. Otherwise a european car shop may suffice. Good luck with the V6 S Manual coupe.

@@OncaEngineering Thanks for the tip on Land Rover/Range Rover shops, there are more of those vehicles around here. Tuesday I inked the deal on a 2006 XJ8 VDP. I should see it next week, in a few days it'll go to an upholstery shop for a new headliner (they all do that), then it gets shipped to me.

Bravo on the XJ VDP. There is a great group of enthusiasts on Jaguar Forums.

@@OncaEngineering I hope it turns out to be a good car, some people report good experiences, others not so much. The Range Rover shop search didn't turn up any shops nearby, I'll just have to clear out my garage and tend to its needs myself. The forum is a great source of knowledge plus there are some collectors nearby.

@mattisonjr this is my semi-retirement hobby. I just moved to RI. What is your interest?

I just bought a 2016 and want to have a knowledgable mechanic for the things I feel I can't do without speciaty tools. I just don't have faith in dealerships. I still haven't taken posession of the car yet as the used car dealership I purchased from needs to replace the pinion seal. I'm not sure I feel completely confident that it will be done correctly. I too am in RI

Ah, ok.. understood. The pinion seal is a nuanced repair job. I can help out if you get into a bind.

You are welcome. Yes I commissioned a helical ATB from Quaife UK to fit the modern Jaguar rear differentials. I am developing an application chart that covers many models, including XE, XF, F-Pace, F-Type. I have made the ATB extensible to several gear ratios with the use of spacers, new bolts, etc.. So read through the Jaguar Forums thread carefully, the information is buried in that thread, see Post #104 in "V6 Base LSD Swap"

You are welcome and I am glad you appreciate the videos. Any topics you’d like to see next?

A Ford 9N? Gotta love physics and basic principles.

Your XK 5.0 NA MT sounds like a great project. Your choice of flywheel should compare the Jaguar OEM/Sachs dual mass vs the Aasco Motorsports single mass flywheel that i commissioned. The difference being smooth low rpm operations, versus faster shifts and more spirited high rpm operation. I will look into the filter and fluid change on the tranny. Anything special there?

lol, looks like I paused the video a few minuets too early.

Will, I will stick with regular “performance” brakes (silver), probably until i get sticky tires or a tune to 400hp.

Thanks for the ebay used parts tip. I just wonder if the used parts availability will drop off as the F-Type ages.

The brake disc retaining washers come off with a set of small flat head screw drivers.. just flick the washer in a counter clockwise direction and soon they will “unscrew” off the studs. BtW, to reinstall simply push the washer on with a 17mm deep well socket. Road America is a good , dynamic track that is “big & beautiful” I used to run there with Midwestern Council of Sport Car Clubs.

Track season is fast approaching. Time to get the brakes all sorted!

You are welcome. I figure these F-Types are pretty rare species and need much discussion and sharing to ensure survival.

@@OncaEngineering Do you know of any successful manual swap of V6s? There are abundance of auto F-type and the manuals are really hard to get by

@@ellistain9318 I totally understand your situation. But, no, I have not yet heard about anyone doing a parts swap on an F-Type AT car to make a Manual. There are folks considering either a V8 drop in to a V6 MT car, or a Manual conversion of a V8 car. I also know that Bill Crodick is looking to convert his XK8 into a Manual using parts from an F-Type donor. These conversion jobs are not that difficult, but do require access to a donor car for parts. There may also be some electronic features or settings to change to achieve full engine operation. This would be a worthy thread to start on the Jaguar Forums.

yeah.. I did not have to do any special work on the central exhaust pipe joints, just loosen them to allow for some pipe rotation. My Cat retention nuts (15mm x2 per side) came off ok. I had to lower the steering rack to access the RHS, but I think the LHS was easier. I can't remember if I used boxed end wrenches or my 3/8 extension ratchet (with micro action). Either way I pulled the nuts from below the car, not from the engine bay. My car was previously worked on by a Euro car shop when I had my lightweight flywheel installed. They added a spot of grease to the nuts & bolts before putting them back, so they were all easy to extract this time around. But I did notice that the Cat studs/nuts were a bit stripped, so I purchased new nuts (left the old studs) to help secure the Cats against the down pipes.

Thanks. I will make a follow on video on the sprung clutch behavior and eventually the Quaife unit.

Will, good to hear from you. Here are some additional tid bits that describe my particular Oil Catch Can installation. I suggest that you only focus on the Right Hand Side breather tube on the AJ126 and AJ133 engines. The catch can that I purchased from K-Motor Performance (e-bay) came with NPT threaded holes. I purchased some 1/2" NPT fittings with 1/2" barbs and also some barbed elbows to tie into the breather tube. Buy at least 5 feet of 1/2" fuel hose (low pressure ) as it is about 2 feet from mounting point to breather hose tie-in. You will need to cut the Right Hand Side breather tube close to the rear fitting on the engine, using a metal saw blade. Note: I removed the Right Hand Side breather tube to make this cut at the correct angle. You will also need to cut a "notch" in the box that houses the cabin air filter to pass the two 1/2" fuel lines through. There is an M6 threaded hole on the metal wall of the cabin air filter area that can accept the catch can mount. Best of luck.

@@OncaEngineering You the Herman with the Quaife LSD's?

@@DillonBritt-gw2og Dillon, yes, I started the Onca Engineering YT channel to focus on my various Jaguar projects. I recently posted a summary / review video which covers the channel’s content.

Marshall, don’t fret yet! It sounds like your Friction LSD may be making some noise when it is doing differential action on slow tight corners. How many miles on your car? There is some pre-load in the friction disks so some noise may be acceptable. Does your P380’s rear diff experience odd noises or behaviors when power is applied on wet surfaces? (DSC off) The Friction LSD will degrade as the friction pads loosen and fall off, eventually turning into an Open diff. I will have a few solutions when your diff finally fails.

@@OncaEngineering together and noise gone! But some engineers told me my diff still broken because of long time no changed oil, and the reason why noise gone is because slip lock worked out. My friend has same problem and he opened diff but there is no part to repair, can only buy a new diff which means a lot of money..

@@OncaEngineering do you have some idea to solve this problem？ I mean for the noise stopped, and looks like everything all right. but im not sure if LSD still work. i dont know how to try if it worked. appreciate that

@marshallholdcoin Yes, I will have a solution for two issues.. 1) upgrade from Open Diff to a Helical LSD (maintenance free) 2) rebuild kit for Friction LSD (needs oil changes and new clutch disks) 3) upgrade kit from Friction LSD to Helical LSD (maintenance free) I will post some more videos in January or February about these options.

Did you break my rear view mirror? Its fixed now! I cut and soldered the stock to raise the mirror by half an inch so i could see a bit more road while driving.

I did break it when we took the Jag for a spin during one of our visits. I reached up to adjust it and it broke free and was hanging by some wires, as I recall it. You said it had already been super glued previously. Sounds like you made a more permanent fix!