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@@AARNAVREDDY-i1b Yes sir! The AWD rip with grippy tires, it’s the best all around platform because you can drift or race around just by changing the tires.

@@singhysingh6231 in my experience the bearings were oversized, double check the dimensions on the wheel bearings you ordered. You may want to cancel the order

@@BMR3 mines for mini z mr03 rear wheel drive model your is awd

@@singhysingh6231 perfect, just wanted to let you know you know in case. Enjoy the bearings, they work great it’s just the size was off for me.

@@JordanDeBuck mono shock is mostly for front wheel clearance on narrow front ends with low off set rims. It also helps/exaggerates body roll. As for the steering crank, just shim it up as much as possible. Some wobble is normal.

@@BMR3 okay thanks shim it at the nut or the lower side?

@@JordanDeBuck shouldn’t make a difference but I would alternate putting one on each side of the steering crank until you remove all the wobble. That should keep the crank centered & not affect the steering geometry. If that doesn’t help then the issue could be the play between the steering crank bearing & the shaft it sits on. You can shim that too using some super thin clear tape and slowly add layers to the post the bearing sits on. Hope this helps man, good luck with your build!

@@BMR3 hmm i did try some if the teffalon on there i wonder if the tape would be better thanks! I have no idea how you have a solution for everything:p

@@JordanDeBuck haha a lot of the solutions are universal across the different platforms, the biggest making sure to reduce/eliminate wobble and sticking points, after that alignment is critical. Once you have those sorted out your build should just need fine tuning. But to be honest, wobble in the steering crank won’t kill the build. It’s less than ideal, but at the same time you can still slide the shit out pf the chassis. If your getting gyro chatter/wheel shakes then you know you need to shim more. But if it’s sliding smooth, don’t worry about it. Just have fun.

@@mrgrantsr I love these cases and still use my originals, they hold up great! Cheers brother, have a great day!

Yes they all fit the ma-020 no problem.

Whatever is cheep and easy to find, around 350mah is the correct size

@@BMR3 SO ANY 350 mah will fit Because some are bigger than others I take that back I was looking at the 360! THANKS FOR THE TIPS 💯

@@GamerFromTheHood 360 shouldn’t be an issue. Try to stick with the skinny long batteries & stay away from the squat fat ones (like e-flight) & you won’t have an issue with space. I always mounted my xrx battery on the top deck, if you do that then you can run a monster battery. Good luck!

What do you mean? Is the knuckle binding?

Assuming you’re talking about the 020, the RTR kit comes with all the parts you need. All you do is unscrew the rear end, change the spur gear to the longer style & reinstall the rear end using the rear most mounting holes. It’s very straight forward and simple.

@@BMR3 i mean i want to keep the 90mm wheelbase but want to use a body that is stock on a 94mm wheelbase. Do i need to make changes or simply put it on?

@@titodendentv if you don’t adjust the wheel bases the back tires will rub. You can trim the body if you really want to make it work like you said.

@@BMR3 got it, thanks!

You can DIY a solid rear axle, save your money for a front one way or spring set.

@@BMR3 I finished the DIY solid rear axle, and I'm going to buy the front one way diff.

@@mosescheng5827 nice, if you haven’t already look into DS Racing tires (I like LF5). Tuning the tires and springs will make a world of difference. Good luck with your build bro!

Thank you for your advice! I will definitely look into that. So far, this is the only channel which provides clear details and reasons of what parts to buy and to not buy. Keep up the good work!

For the springs do I buy the front and rear or just the front?

The ma-030 has limited bodies & the DWS restricts you to the 98mm length. Here is a chart from Kyosho, it’s not perfect but it’s a good place to get started. There are some bodies that will fit despite what the website says, the R32 for example. If you have Facebook join the mini-a world group and ask, they will have the for sure answers. kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/ Good luck with your build!

Should be 90mm to my knowledge. Yeah the rims will have different offsets making the rear wider than the front

@@BMR3 thank you so much

@@scouttroopergaming no problem man I’m happy to help. Good luck with your build!

@@BMR3 one last thing, would it fit on a MR-03 chassis

@@scouttroopergaming yep you just need the correct motor pod and it will work without issues.

Same method. Heat them up in warm water to loosen them off the rim. Beware, some brands like WL Toys glue their tires to the rim so be careful.

@BMR3 that's good to know. Thank you. I didn't want to end up throwing away wheels if I could avoid it like 1/10 scale. Hated glued tires lol.

Yep, since it’s 90mm I believe you will need a RM style motor mount. Just search up 90mm MR-03 and you will find what you need. Good luck

It’s the best when you first get into upgrading and overwhelmed with all the info lol good luck with your build!

Sounds like the servo is sticking. Do you have a controller with EPA? May be able to turn the settings down so the wheels don’t lock. If not you may need to pull it apart and check for obstructions & clean it out. Good luck!

That’s awesome to hear the video helped you out! Yeah it’s stressful pulling the chassis apart but so satisfying to do it successfully. Good luck with your build brother!

I haven’t tried it myself but I heard they work just fine.

Here is a link to their website to order direct: www.mpower-pro.com/ma020

@@BMR3 Thank you

Mpower parts were very close or lighter than stock. No noticeable difference

90mm narrow 0mm offset rims

@@BMR3 Thank you

Best upgrade you can do imo, huge quality of life improvement when changing batteries

Pretty much forever if you don’t crash or drop it. There is really no need to upgrade from stock plastic parts & accessory/option parts kyosho makes.

The one in the video was made by Hail Racing & it’s a clone of the BM Racing DRZv1 conversion kit, hence the red color to match the V1. Both are long out of production and very rare.

thank's@@BMR3

Always lock the diff

@@BMR3 Thanks. Un grand merci de France.

Happy to help my friend, good luck!

Yup, it sounds like the little white tabs inside your R32 body are not perfectly aligned causing the body to sit awkwardly on the chassis. You can VERY carefully pry the white tabs out with something like a dental pick, or I have used the flat blade of an exaco knife. You just need to wedge something in between the white clip and the body and VERY VERY carefully & slowly pull the tab off. Sometimes they come off easy and sometimes they are a bitch. Once you have them off, just clean off the old adhesive and reglue them back on the body as far down and evenly as you can. Alternatively, you can go the full boat and swap over to magnet mounts. Highly recommend going with magnet mounts since it makes changing the batteries 10,000x easier & you don’t put stress on the body by prying it off the chassis every time.

@BMR3 Thank you, excellent and will do!

The a/b1, 2 & 3 motor mounts match up with specific spur gear and pinion combos for proper motor spacing. Refer to the handbook that comes with your kit to make sure your using the proper combo

You you will need a special extension regardless of the ma model to get out to 102mm, as well as a matching spur gear. Search around and you will find some 3d version you can order. They work just fine from what I’ve seen. No need to go full overkill with laser cutting, but that would be dope.

Depends on how much contact area you want. I would suggest starting with 4 narrow and go from there. I run narrow tires on my AWD & wide for my RWD drifters. How this helps!

@@BMR3 thanks for the tips!