Lol yeah the build was a little painful, but that made it all the more rewarding once I got the car built! Glad you enjoyed the video & hope your doing well my friend!
Any tips on therlse tiny little 0.3 mm spacers? There almost impossible to fit. Its saying 2 in the upper front wishbones. Which leaves a massive amount of slop
I’m running 3-4 of those tiny shims on my uppers, just depends on the tolerances of the arms. For the one I’m using 4 shims I had to sand the fourth shim down a bit to make it so they all fit & there is absolutely NO slop at all.
@@evapig1813 it’s worth it to buy a couple extra packs of shims. The spares can be used on other chassis this scale & slop is the biggest enemy of a consistent, predictable & stable drift chassis.
Ha hitting all the same issues i did in my video, you can see why i am not a fan of atomic. quality control is bad, parts can be missing (and critical parts such as entire swing arms have been missing in some of my kits) and there is so much plastic that had to be filed back. glad to see you got rhough it
Lol I got threw the build, but then broke a linkage on my test drive... car is dead in the water until I can replace the lower m2.5 link rod But yeah I feel you, I wish some of the critical parts like the plastic crack had aluminum or carbon fiber optional parts. Shoot I’m fine paying more, I just want quality
@@BMR3 ha i mentioned in my video i buy spare parts in bulk, this is a reason why, those linkages are tiny. and with that i think its time to do some more work on the chassis
Blitz Works I saw, you are a freaking mad man! So many Ensotech products that my wallet had a heart attack 🤑 LOL But the issue is Atomic doesn’t have spare/replacements for this link rod available on their website. I sent atonic an email but haven’t heard back yet
@@BMR3 its typical for them to release the base model then add the metal parts 3-4 months later, the BZ3 still has new parts coming out for it and major changes (eg a mid mount motor wide chassis) i suspect at the end of the day they are limited by manpower which is fine, lets just hope these parts do come out alternatively you can start to mix and match parts and fabricate pieces like i have done can be fun for a limited definition of fun
I agree once you've built a gla it's starts to annoy you. I love atomic but I have spent ages loosening steering mechanisms and ball joints. The gla instruction is soo good aswell.
a couple of hrs for the rear end alone? holly crap i think im going to love this hobby. btw best help video in you tube as far as what i can see. i really like the way your cinematography flows. cheers man you found a loyal follower. i will participate as much as i can in this channel albeit my exp in this subject is limited. but my fathoms in finance and the philosophy of money is vast. lol
Lol no worries, I’m happy to help teach you to message your balls 😹😹😹 Here is a link to the video tutorial ;) m.th-cam.com/video/RMhkoIUS_og/w-d-xo.html
Finally a detailed video on DRZ V2. It took me 2 months to figure out the ride height thing and drifts properly-ish. Like you said I still have problems switching direction on my V1 (Probably need to recheck all the linkages). A lot of my problems went away after switching to the original tyres (Started immediately with LF4 not knowing I need to adjust the settings). You said something about making sure the front is balanced on each side and the measuring gaps can be deceiving. How can we properly see that our cambers and everything else are balanced? Is it purely by naked eye? PS: I wished you would go these much details on the V1 too. Awesome video!
Exactly, check your linkages to make sure your suspension is not sticking at any point & make sure your steering isn’t getting hung up. Also make sure to set end points & check that you have even steering angle on both sides, & that your tires aren’t getting caught up. That should clear up any issues with transitions. Regarding check the amount of camber & toe, you just need the proper tools. I haven’t come across them for 1/28th scale yet, but I know they have them for 1/10th scale. But in my opinion you can get the car pretty close to perfect with your eyeball, it just takes time & looking at it from every angle
BMR 3 After watching your video I jusy decided to take off the spring and see what’s up with my suspension. It’s stuck! It’s nowhere as free as yours are. Guess I have to work on my massaging technique.
Dhanin Putra ba BOOM! That should fix the issue :) a lot of people overlook the linkages, it causes all sorts of issues. Have you seen the video from Atomic on how to properly message the linkages to make the free?
Atomic has a link in the manual to a TH-cam video that shows how to stretch the linkages. It’s super easy, basically you just squeeze the linkage with pliers while it’s on the ball joint. I found the link! Here you go: th-cam.com/video/RMhkoIUS_og/w-d-xo.html
Hey man I just ordered my first atomic drzv2.1 kit. I also ordered the furitek Odyssey kit. It has the momentum esc and a 5500kv motor. Do I need to purchase pinion gears separately? Do any come with the kit? If I do how many teeth on the pinion do you suggest? Thanks for the help
Hey man, Nice choice!! yeah the DRZ kit will come with the spur gear & a pinion gear so you will be set. As far as recommendation, I say leave it stock for now. You can play around with gearing later on once you have the chassis fine tuned. Focus on the steering & rake settings first. good luck with your build & let me know if you have further questions.
@@BMR3 I really enjoy watching your videos it helped me choose which one I wanted. Thanks for the help. I went crazy on this build. I ordered literally everything for it.🤣
Yes, the goal is to make every single linkage/pivot point to be as loose/free as possible. Check out my second most recent video called DRZ Limited Edition Build Preview, that will give you a good idea of how your build should look.
There are two main ones I use: m.facebook.com/groups/722063711267613/?ref=bookmarks m.facebook.com/groups/402250350920855/?ref=bookmarks Hope to see you over there!
Just ridiculous how sloppy their manufacturing and QC is. Similar to you, I had to spend probably 2-4 hours doing trimming, sanding, gouging, etc on parts. The sad part is, we continue to buy their cars, and so they've no reason to better themselves.
Exactly lol! I bitched & moaned about all my atomic builds but I now have 2 V2s, a super Skeeter & a full BM V1 😂 plus I built a couple more V2s that have since been sold… I can’t keep my hands off atomic for some reason, I truthfully don’t get it since my Drift Art puts them to shame… but I keep driving my DRZs while the Art & XRX just sit. 🤣
@@Jeff_gadgets_unboxing 1mm offset & narrow all around. Here is a link to the official body chart/guide, you can sort models alphabetically to make it super easy to reference: kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/
Thank you for the kind works & support man! I got mine from Mikos, but he is sold out. RCm8 is going to receive a shipment any day & I’ll send you a link once they have them in stock
The value proposition just isn’t there for me and that’s from someone that’s blown a lot on Mini-z’s. I think mini-z’s are just the right amount of work/investment to performance/fun ratio for me. It’s funny because it bothers me in terms of “realism” how much the front tires turn despite the fact that ma-030 is an awd drift car. Doesn’t make sense but that’s the way it is lol Maybe if they had reasonably priced prebuilts with the ability to use AAA but these just weren’t made for me so I won’t hold my breath.
I'm a sucker for all mini rc. I love the ma030 for that very reason. Easy to set up and use easy to mod. Rwd is a purist thing. Of course I love the tech 😂despite the heartache of setting up.
@@andymota1633 so the esc is not responding at all, zero forward throttle & reverse? Does the servo respond? That way you can confirm the esc is providing power & the receiver is fully bound.
@@andymota1633 could be a bad esc or it could be the controller is not fully bound to the receiver. I would confirm the receiver is working properly before moving on to the esc.
@@garrettluellen8693 there are extension kits so you can have it scale up to 1/24 sizes. I’m not sure what the measurements would be but it can get very wide if needed.
@@BMR3 I am looking for very narrow settings as well, like 52 mm for the full track. It sounds like I could get pretty close to that using 0 mm offsets
Man, from my memories building a 1/10th is so easier!!!
Nice and interesting video !
Lol yeah the build was a little painful, but that made it all the more rewarding once I got the car built!
Glad you enjoyed the video & hope your doing well my friend!
You saved me some headaches dude! Thank you!
Happy to help man!
Any tips on therlse tiny little 0.3 mm spacers? There almost impossible to fit. Its saying 2 in the upper front wishbones. Which leaves a massive amount of slop
I’m running 3-4 of those tiny shims on my uppers, just depends on the tolerances of the arms. For the one I’m using 4 shims I had to sand the fourth shim down a bit to make it so they all fit & there is absolutely NO slop at all.
@@BMR3 I've got 4 in mine and tbh I could probably fit another 2 in if they hadn't all pinged off my tweezers
@@evapig1813 it’s worth it to buy a couple extra packs of shims. The spares can be used on other chassis this scale & slop is the biggest enemy of a consistent, predictable & stable drift chassis.
@@BMR3 yeah I'm on it thanks for the info. Enjoy your vids keep em up
what lipo/battery do you use for your drz, I'm quite new to this so I don't know a lot.
Currently using this eflight one: th-cam.com/video/eCbzt2B_Zzg/w-d-xo.html
Hi, did you use threadlockers for all screws ? or any kind of glue ? thanks
Nope no thread locker unless it’s for attaching a ball head to a METAL servo horn.
Ha hitting all the same issues i did in my video, you can see why i am not a fan of atomic. quality control is bad, parts can be missing (and critical parts such as entire swing arms have been missing in some of my kits) and there is so much plastic that had to be filed back. glad to see you got rhough it
Lol I got threw the build, but then broke a linkage on my test drive... car is dead in the water until I can replace the lower m2.5 link rod
But yeah I feel you, I wish some of the critical parts like the plastic crack had aluminum or carbon fiber optional parts. Shoot I’m fine paying more, I just want quality
@@BMR3 ha i mentioned in my video i buy spare parts in bulk, this is a reason why, those linkages are tiny. and with that i think its time to do some more work on the chassis
Blitz Works I saw, you are a freaking mad man! So many Ensotech products that my wallet had a heart attack 🤑 LOL
But the issue is Atomic doesn’t have spare/replacements for this link rod available on their website. I sent atonic an email but haven’t heard back yet
@@BMR3 its typical for them to release the base model then add the metal parts 3-4 months later, the BZ3 still has new parts coming out for it and major changes (eg a mid mount motor wide chassis) i suspect at the end of the day they are limited by manpower which is fine, lets just hope these parts do come out
alternatively you can start to mix and match parts and fabricate pieces like i have done can be fun for a limited definition of fun
I agree once you've built a gla it's starts to annoy you. I love atomic but I have spent ages loosening steering mechanisms and ball joints. The gla instruction is soo good aswell.
a couple of hrs for the rear end alone? holly crap i think im going to love this hobby. btw best help video in you tube as far as what i can see. i really like the way your cinematography flows. cheers man you found a loyal follower. i will participate as much as i can in this channel albeit my exp in this subject is limited. but my fathoms in finance and the philosophy of money is vast. lol
Hi sorry I’m new to this how do you massage a ball end and loosen it all up
Here is a link to a very quick & solid explanation video: m.th-cam.com/video/RMhkoIUS_og/w-d-xo.html
I voulnd find parts for v1 like the plastic lower control arms going with v2
Sorry to ask a silly question but how do you massage a ball link and loosen it all up. I’m asking for a friend. Haha
Lol no worries, I’m happy to help teach you to message your balls 😹😹😹
Here is a link to the video tutorial ;) m.th-cam.com/video/RMhkoIUS_og/w-d-xo.html
Sorry alot of excess talk not needed making the video longer than needed
Finally a detailed video on DRZ V2. It took me 2 months to figure out the ride height thing and drifts properly-ish. Like you said I still have problems switching direction on my V1 (Probably need to recheck all the linkages). A lot of my problems went away after switching to the original tyres (Started immediately with LF4 not knowing I need to adjust the settings). You said something about making sure the front is balanced on each side and the measuring gaps can be deceiving. How can we properly see that our cambers and everything else are balanced? Is it purely by naked eye? PS: I wished you would go these much details on the V1 too. Awesome video!
Exactly, check your linkages to make sure your suspension is not sticking at any point & make sure your steering isn’t getting hung up. Also make sure to set end points & check that you have even steering angle on both sides, & that your tires aren’t getting caught up. That should clear up any issues with transitions.
Regarding check the amount of camber & toe, you just need the proper tools. I haven’t come across them for 1/28th scale yet, but I know they have them for 1/10th scale. But in my opinion you can get the car pretty close to perfect with your eyeball, it just takes time & looking at it from every angle
Oh yeah, I plan on making more videos on the V1
BMR 3 After watching your video I jusy decided to take off the spring and see what’s up with my suspension. It’s stuck! It’s nowhere as free as yours are. Guess I have to work on my massaging technique.
Dhanin Putra ba BOOM! That should fix the issue :) a lot of people overlook the linkages, it causes all sorts of issues.
Have you seen the video from Atomic on how to properly message the linkages to make the free?
Dhanin Putra also, be sure to check the points where the linkages connect to the chassis, not just the ball ends
Great video, how do you stretch out the knuckles?
Atomic has a link in the manual to a TH-cam video that shows how to stretch the linkages. It’s super easy, basically you just squeeze the linkage with pliers while it’s on the ball joint.
I found the link! Here you go: th-cam.com/video/RMhkoIUS_og/w-d-xo.html
Hey man I just ordered my first atomic drzv2.1 kit. I also ordered the furitek Odyssey kit. It has the momentum esc and a 5500kv motor. Do I need to purchase pinion gears separately? Do any come with the kit? If I do how many teeth on the pinion do you suggest? Thanks for the help
Hey man,
Nice choice!! yeah the DRZ kit will come with the spur gear & a pinion gear so you will be set.
As far as recommendation, I say leave it stock for now. You can play around with gearing later on once you have the chassis fine tuned. Focus on the steering & rake settings first.
good luck with your build & let me know if you have further questions.
@@BMR3 I really enjoy watching your videos it helped me choose which one I wanted. Thanks for the help. I went crazy on this build. I ordered literally everything for it.🤣
Really appreciate the video. One question I have is if I should keep everything loose on my build? It wasn’t clear if I should. Thx
Yes, the goal is to make every single linkage/pivot point to be as loose/free as possible. Check out my second most recent video called DRZ Limited Edition Build Preview, that will give you a good idea of how your build should look.
Thank you for the support by the way! I was rushing to respond…
Can I use my ma-020 or ma-030 evo motor to test drive it ?
No it won’t fit. Mini-z have flat motors & the DRZ mount needs a round motor.
Where can I get the front shock from?
the orlandoo hunter kits, its the upgraded shock
What's the Facebook group you mentioned a few times?
There are two main ones I use:
m.facebook.com/groups/722063711267613/?ref=bookmarks
m.facebook.com/groups/402250350920855/?ref=bookmarks
Hope to see you over there!
Just ridiculous how sloppy their manufacturing and QC is. Similar to you, I had to spend probably 2-4 hours doing trimming, sanding, gouging, etc on parts.
The sad part is, we continue to buy their cars, and so they've no reason to better themselves.
Exactly lol! I bitched & moaned about all my atomic builds but I now have 2 V2s, a super Skeeter & a full BM V1 😂 plus I built a couple more V2s that have since been sold… I can’t keep my hands off atomic for some reason, I truthfully don’t get it since my Drift Art puts them to shame… but I keep driving my DRZs while the Art & XRX just sit. 🤣
What motor did you use?
I started with a 3500kv but moved up to 5500kv, it’s still has low end control but it’s really really nice to have a bit more top end.
hi what wheel dimension and offset did you use for your DRZ to fit with kyosho body?
because i want to use r34 kyosho body to my drz v2
@@Jeff_gadgets_unboxing it’s the same offset as you would you use for a mini-z
@@BMR3 is it 0 offset narrow?
@@Jeff_gadgets_unboxing 1mm offset & narrow all around. Here is a link to the official body chart/guide, you can sort models alphabetically to make it super easy to reference: kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/
@@BMR3 thank you. 👍
You are the best man where can you get one
Thank you for the kind works & support man! I got mine from Mikos, but he is sold out. RCm8 is going to receive a shipment any day & I’ll send you a link once they have them in stock
The value proposition just isn’t there for me and that’s from someone that’s blown a lot on Mini-z’s.
I think mini-z’s are just the right amount of work/investment to performance/fun ratio for me.
It’s funny because it bothers me in terms of “realism” how much the front tires turn despite the fact that ma-030 is an awd drift car. Doesn’t make sense but that’s the way it is lol
Maybe if they had reasonably priced prebuilts with the ability to use AAA but these just weren’t made for me so I won’t hold my breath.
I'm a sucker for all mini rc. I love the ma030 for that very reason. Easy to set up and use easy to mod. Rwd is a purist thing. Of course I love the tech 😂despite the heartache of setting up.
i actually have an old MA020 frame i cut up to use as a battery holder and use it on these chassis on occasion (mainly with lipo AAA's)
@@BlitzWorks Stop trying to reel me in damnit lol
My esc keeps blinking once hooked up any solutions ?
Is the controller bound to the receiver? If so then it’s probably a dead battery
@@BMR3 yes and I don’t think it might be that I just took off battery from charger haha 😅
@@andymota1633 so the esc is not responding at all, zero forward throttle & reverse? Does the servo respond? That way you can confirm the esc is providing power & the receiver is fully bound.
@@BMR3 the servo doesn’t I try steering and foward or reverse neither of that works I think this esc is done
@@andymota1633 could be a bad esc or it could be the controller is not fully bound to the receiver. I would confirm the receiver is working properly before moving on to the esc.
This monoshock can used to xrx kit ?
This shock is made my Atomic, it may fit but I’m not sure. You can order XRX mono shocks through ChanRC
@@BMR3 ok thanks for information 🙏☺️
Happy to help!
what battery should i buy for this build?
the Atomic battery, I believe its 360MAH & fits perfect.
Does the kit come with bearings?
What receiver do you have that works with KT-432pt?
This, it’s super cheep: www.rcmart.com/flysky-fs-gr3e-3-channels-receiver-for-2-4ghz-radio-kit-rc-car-boat-31083r-00031808
@@BMR3 but will it work with Kyosho KT-432pt controller?
Yes, it’s AFHDS compatible so the frequency is comparable with the FHS mode
The Atomic tyre that come with the kit, what is the width?
All four tires are narrow
@@BMR3 thanks man.
pejalai no problem!
Do you have a measurement for the track width of this car? (Center of one wheel to center of the other)
its adjustable, but from outside steering knuckle to outside steering knuckle I'm sitting at 54.32mm in the front.
@@BMR3 thanks for the response! How much additional width is added from the wheels at the steering knuckle?
@@garrettluellen8693 there are extension kits so you can have it scale up to 1/24 sizes. I’m not sure what the measurements would be but it can get very wide if needed.
@@garrettluellen8693 also, I run mine very narrow due to the shells I use. Just for reference I use mini-z R32 shells with 1.5mm offset in the front.
@@BMR3 I am looking for very narrow settings as well, like 52 mm for the full track. It sounds like I could get pretty close to that using 0 mm offsets
So what youre saying is you want your "lower linkage to just flop and hang free, and not get stiff"? 🤣 sorry...I know...dirty mind.
No no you must massage the linkage until it just flops, hangs free & does not get stiff 😹😹😹 you gotta relax the thing you know 🤣