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Hi Andy. I think they would both be more than good enough. The advantage with the 40-150mm is the constant aperture of f2.8 (5.6 full frame equivalent). With the 2x converter it'll give you a huge focal distance of 160-600mm at f5.6 (f11 full frame equivalent). However, the 100-400mm is a full frame equivalent of 200-800mm with a variable aperture of f5-6.3 (f10-13 FFE). There's not much in it to be honest.The 40-150 has that PRO build quality and with the 2x converter is probably more versatile. If budget is a concern then just use your mobile camera for any wide shots. If you're able to check the pre-owned section or discount sales in store for an extra body and cheap wide lens such as an 8mm or 12mm MFT lens (16mm or 24mm FFE). The Olympus and Panasonic lenses are so small and cheap you'll hardly notice them when travelling. Hope that helps and enjoy the Safari trip.

@ thank you Matthew!👍🏻

My pleasure! Thanks for viewing.

I’ve not used the 10-20mm but I know it’s an f4 lens. For wide shots of sports stadiums I’m usually at f8 so f4 is definitely not an issue. With the 15-35 I’m also usually panning sequentially in portrait mode to get those super wide looking shots so by using a 10mm aspherical lens would save a lot of time. Hope that helps.

@ thank you!

Hi Sebastian. The 60-600 would probably cover the focal range you need and as you’ll be in a vehicle you won’t be carrying it everywhere so the weight won’t be an issue. Anything wider than 60mm you could just use your phone camera if you really had to. If there is time then maybe you could change lenses to go wider.

Thanks for taking the time to view the video and for the comment. It's a constant learning curve. I can change modes fairly quickly but it does take some practice. It's really down to muscle memory and being familiar with your camera. If i change cameras i do struggle a bit.

Hi Thanks so much for the comment. I usually keep all the teams in one file and just make sure they have different codes. That way i'm not likely to have the wrong file loaded and have consistent set of codes . But it doesn't really matter. It's up to you how you do things.

Hi John. I have a few times and i found it to be a bit unreliable. Maybe i need to calibrate it better.

Thank you very much!

Thanks for the comment. I think for street or travel photography i would be trying to control the ISO to be as low as possible to get cleaner images. The autofocus settings might work better in the general purpose mode.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for watching!

Hi Matthew. I would edit the original file but then while sending the image via FTP PM then makes a copy which is a scaled down or deduced size version. You could set up so you're working in a way which is non-destructive to the original image. But you'd still have the originals on the memory cards.

@mstarling79 thank you mate. I guess speed is the important factor when you have to file. And as you said you’ve still got the original on memory cards. Your Photomechanic template looks amazing

You're welcome!

Yes, definitely. I bought the Nanuk 960 waterproof case. That seems to be working well so far. But the Pelican cases are also very good.

They are remote trigger devices for shooting on a camera that is positioned remotely

@@mstarling79 thank u sirrr

Thanks so much for watching

Thanks for the extra information

That is the Neewer 2-in-1 Rolling Camera Bag

It would probably fit without the camera attached. Might be a squeeze with camera attached and also with the lens hood.

Thanks for the comment. Yes i agree, Canon should give the option for an arca swiss style base plate or lens foot.

Thanks for sharing

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the comment

Hi Mike. I believe its because the IS is always on if the lens has IS built-in. You turn the IS off by using the switch on the lens. Unless it's for video then the option is available again.

@@mstarling79 thank you. so, to swich on/off inbody IS stabilisation, i do it from the lens button.

@@gregorydobson4307 thanks for the comment. Much appreciated.

Many thanks!

Thanks so much for watching

@@mstarling79 ok so I added a Timelapse setting to a custom mode on my R7 but the custom controls are global. My studio shoot I had to reset the max and min limits of shutter speed lol

Thanks for the comment. You made some good points. Let's hope Canon are watching.

Thanks for sharing

Hi thanks for the comment. One metadata has been added to the images then it will stay until it's been deleted or modified within a program that allows access sot the data. I've not tried it with google drive but i'm sure there would be a way to add data with PM and for you clients to see that data within google drive.

Hi thanks for the comment - they can be found here - photographyblinds.com/collections/camshield

Hi Patrick. Thanks for the comment. There isn't an easy way for selecting photos. You either scroll back through the camera and select the ones worth locking or keeping or transfer the whole lot on to the laptop and then drag and drop the best shots inn to photo mechanic directly, then apply the metadata template manually. You can do any edit you want within the image editor. Sometimes i may adjust the exposure, contrast and saturation etc. It really does depend on you. You could shoot RAW if you preferred to and then do a full edit with shadows and highlights. If you're at 12800 ISO the you'll probably need to apply some noise reduction if you start to tinker around with shadows and black areas . If i have 30-40 photos to go through this could be quite time consuming, which is why i generally stick to jpeg and try and get the most accurate exposure in camera.

​@@mstarling79 My workflow is a bit different. I shoot both jpeg and RAW (more on that in a bit). RAWs are for editing after the game. I tag my photos with 1 *(star) in camera during the game for keepers. When the game is finished, I put in the SD card to the PC, then open the SD card in PM and go through the images, just to ensure I got every photo I want and need tagged with 1 *. THEN I do the ingest on the 1* tagged photos. After ingesting I go through the photos again in PM to add the names of the players/staff relevant to the photos using code replacements. Then I import all photos into Lightroom Classic and applying my preset. Do some final touches and then export to send them off. I do not need to send full-size photos during the game. And I take photos for the team directly, therefore I do not need to send any photos to a third party. During the game I simply transfer photos (jpegs) from the camera to my phone and do a quick edit in Lightroom on my phone. Then send it to the media team in the stances who share a photo on social media. These photos are fairly low quality but it's quick, easy and very usable on SoMe. Regarding the editing question, I just noticed that you only did some cropping but not any touch-ups in regards to adjusting highlights, shadows, contrast etc.

This and the 24-240 would be the perfect travel combo

It would be a great set up and also cost effective. Thanks for the comments.

Thanks for the comment. Glad it has been of some help. Good luck with the R5.

Hi thanks for the comment. I use smallrig mostly but also have one made by Niceyrig both compatible with the R5 and R6. The screw holes are universal sizes. I have another smallrig L plate cage for the R3 also.

Hi Adam. Thanks for the comment. It's probably worth bearing in mind that your football games in the US are around 3 hours long! That's quite a long time out in the field. Our football and rugby games here are only around 90 minutes long. It's only during some Cricket games when i need to start to think about changing batteries but i would leave one on charge and then use a powerbank in the field to charge the cameras, as well as the M1 MacBook, through USB C Power Delivery. The R3 is generally fine on one battery with a bit of charge from the powerbank during intervals. But i think i will eventually get a battery grip for the R5.

Hi thanks for taking the time to view and comment - the covers can be found. here photographyblinds.com/collections/camshield

Thank you very much! - thanks for taking the time to view and comment.

Hi thanks for taking the time to view and comment - the covers can be found. here photographyblinds.com/collections/camshield

@@mstarling79 thanks so much

Glad you enjoyed it - thanks for taking the time to view and comment.

Thanks!

Thanks for the comment.

@@mstarling79 your welcome

Great! thanks for the comment. Capture One is a great option.

Welcome