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Yes, the idea is to get away from "standard colors" and offer something different. And if one profile doesn't tickle your creative pickle, there quite a few other packs to choose from on my site

Actually I like most of your profiles and we use them on a daily basis! Just wanted to know if the color shift was planned ;) Recently rockin' the Portra EDR and Pro Neigh Hi along with the standard T-Rex. All the best!

Nice, yes absolutely, doing my best to make them look different from the regular profiles.

Today Lag/latency would mainly be a concern when it comes to wireless connections. With that said there's always going to be latency because of the signal processing, and that's why even the camera lcd will have a decent amount of latency from 60 all the way up to 250ms) But unless you’re doing something extremely timing critical, it's not going to be very noticeable when using a wired monitor. The a7iv is one of the supported cameras when it comes to the Shinobi II The touch focus tests in the video was done on my a7iv and it will give you that red box around the screen. But yes, the usb connection and the implementation isn't my personal favorite especially when compared to the lh7p. You could also check out the LH5P II which will have the same controls and operating system amzn.to/4eJffH8 But 2000 nit brightness and a 5.5" display if you don't want to go 7" Thank you so much for watching and don't be afraid to ask more questions

thank you for your response. I have seen what appears to be a Vmount battery powering the Shinobi ii, and then the Shinobi powering the camera through that usbc connection for the controls. Someone on TH-cam had it set up this way if I’m not mistaken. I think they were using a dummy battery or a converter in the Shinobi battery slot. Would be a good alternative because I would like to power the a74 with the Vmount as well.

Yep, Viltrox did it again.

Thank you Mr Wisenheart I appreciate that! And thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.

The main differences in your case would be weight, size, features and price. With size being fairly equal given they're both slightly bigger monitors. The Portkeys is 100g lighter which may be a plus if you're doing really long takes and don't have the option to set your camera down between takes. The camera control on the Portkeys may also be a plus depending on how you want to control your camera, from the gimbal or from the monitor which obviously gives you touch focus. If these sounds like pros worth the extra money to you then the Portkey's would be the way to go. On the other hand If you want to save money and space on your gimbal. And you're planning on relying on the gimbal to control your camera and maybe even use electronic follow focus from your gimbal then the extra money might not be worth it for those 100g So in fewer words I would get the Portkeys if weight and foremost the camera control features was something I would utilize. And the DC-X3 (or X2) If you don't prioritize camera control and just want a decently sized monitor to make you life easier. Hope that helps and feel free to ask me more questions if you want to.

Whoa! That's super cool! What's the game, I want to look up that ad

Absolutely

That's the one i use. Not sure if there's any alternatives to that one.

Nice, it's a lot of fun to use for sure

Good question, haven't tried the Meike but hear good things about their lenses.

I would say it’s quite average. And by average I mean on par with everything else. Maybe even slightly better because of the hdmi 2.0 There’s no escaping latency. Even the build in screen has latency. But you won't notice the latency when you're shooting. It's why I don't do any latency tests as they're not really useful outside of the fact that latency is a real thing ;) When it comes to wireless transmitter, that's when the amount of latency starts to matter at times.

Yes absolutely, you can go out from the UV1 using line out and go into your interfaces line in.

@thomasfransson ok the only thing i wonder and notice is there is no sync clock and adat ports so would it be off sync or anything? or will it be no latency issues just with output to input and power supply ?

@@thomasfransson can you please test it plug uv1 with trs to seperate interface and dont plug the USB from uv1 to pc just trs to other interface and plug mic into uv1 and record vocals in a DAW and see if its any delay or sync issues please

The main takeaway in my opinion is that the Sigma is a great compact lens, it's well suited for autofocus use. The Tamron offers better ergonomics because of its size, it's also easier to manual focus on the Tamron. The Tamron also offers optical stabilization and weather sealing. So in my opinion, the Tamron is a better, more capable and well rounded lens. The Sigma isn't bad, but it’s it's main feature is that it's very small.

That's a perfect combo!

The best! I should sample it

Sounds like you'll be able to put the SDI to use on your soon to be Pyxis. So in this case it definitely makes sense to get the X3. About the BRAW, I'd worry about that when the day comes, if you still have your FX30 or gone all panasonic by then ;) Thank you

I hope it helps straightening any question marks

Good to know for a7iii users. It works perfect on my a7iv and FX30 which are a bit newer and I believe uses another AF system compared to the a7iii. The amount of focus breathing shouldn't change though...

@ correction, the worst breathing was on my a7ii, which I use as a webcam. Maybe they optimized it for the most recent af systems? I think putting a budget lense like this on an older body seems more realistic.

Haha true!

They should be about the same, but the convex wood handle on the F60 makes it look a little bulkier. The palm rest on the F60 is another factor obviously. But I can be detached when/if you don’t need it.

Yes it does, I believe it’s micro HDMI out on the om-1? In that case grab a micro/type D to type A HDMI cable and you're good to go.

Nice, congratulations to your new camera! Let me know what you think about these sims. Have fun!

True, not to bad at all. I think it's a great gateway lens for those who want to try "vintage" without learning or worrying about adapters and sourcing lenses on ebay.

That's a great question, I'm not familiar with that lens so I don’t dare to make a guess. I guess it comes down to its magnification and your scanning method. 1:1 magnification is super nice for 135 and I can only assume the same for 120

There will be more ;)

​@@thomasfranssonand Fuji, and Nikon and Sony and Panasonic simulations too! 😅

I second this!! Please make some for Sony..... pleeeasee.​@amermeleitor

I need to wrap my head around Sony, nikon and Panasonic i don’t have access too 😌

Interesting, hmm, I can't say that I've noticed that. But my eyes are kinda crappy so maybe it's that. Is it the same if you use pixel 2 pixel? Also are you sending 1080 or 4k to the monitor?

@ solved it! Had to change downsample to 1080 instead of auto. Thanks!

Amazing, always a relief when it's that easy 🥳

If size is a factor, the Sigma will definitely be the better choice. Enjoy your new camera.

Hoho! En svensk! Vassego!

Nice! Love it too, definitely worth investing in.

Thank you, I'm currently working on a bigger comparison with 9 different monitors. Hopefully it'll be out on Wednesday if you want more comparisons ;)

Hey, that's awsome. I haven't released any luts yet apart from the print luts. But this picture style is inspired by the Kodak Vision3 film stock and I believe you should be able to find a few LUTs emulating that film stock.

No exactly, to quote John Clarke in "The front fell off sketch" Cardboard's out of the question. Unless you line it with a conductive material like aluminum foil or something. Another option is to buy a new battery cover on ebay. It might cost you a few buck. But then again, it might be worth it to not have to worry about diy solution if you're as handy as me ;)

Yes, it has a 3.5mm trs connector that fits the DJI mic 2

@@thomasfransson Awesome, thank you!

My pleasure

Let's hope we get to test it soon.

Have fun

Monitors from Portkeys that ends with an P I don't know of anything else.

Thank you Jarah, your comment brightened my day!

Easiest way is to get a compact flash (CF) card reader. amzn.to/3Z4sbTf

Sure thing, it's a little lighter than the FX30, but I don't think that's going to be a problem.

It's a great monitor. Hope it will bring you much joy.

Thank you Sebastian!

Have you compared it to another 18-35? Perhaps yours is broken/in bad shape? Released back in 2013 I guess the AF motor can be considered noisy compared to most contemporary lenses, even if it was pretty quiet back then. AF noise was one of the reasons why so many got themselves a wireless lavalier system (including myself) and became used to manual focusing now and then. I shoot with my 18-35 a few times/week and maybe I've gotten used to working around any potential AF noise or like I said, yours might be extra noisy for some reason? Given it's popularity still to this day, there would be more content about the noise if it was a huge problem in the proportions you mention... So perhaps take it to a camera store and get a second opinion.

Great to hear! I'm not sure what I can tell you, I have a very unscientific approach and just go by eye when I create these. I gather lots of reverence material, do side by side shoots. Adjust and tweak until it's as close as possible and stable across a multitude of exposures, colors and shooting conditions. This can take a while to get right.

Va härligt, hoppas du kan njuta mer av fotandet utan att behöva tänka på redigering. Tack för att du tog dig tid.

The s60 will allow you to do more types of shots.

@ wouldn’t the slider be visible in push and push out shots with a wide angle lens like 15mm?

Well, it depends, but it's certainly something to be aware of when using wide angle lenses on a slider depending on what direction the camera is pointing at. Adding a video head to the slider is always a good idea imo. It raises the camera up and away from the slider and it allows you to tilt the camera upward slightly if necessary. Getting a video head with an arca QR plate will obviously also make it quicker and easier for you to set everything up. As for doing push ins with a slider like the s60 for real estate, be mindful of the short travel distance. It will we like taking a step forward and depending on the composition and framing it may or may not produce the results you are looking for. Doing push ins through furniture, details etc. will probably work great. While shooting across a room might not. But you could always change the orientation of the camera and run it sideways and create nice looking reveal shots too.

@ Thank you so much for the detailed explanation. What kind of video head or QR plate would you suggest?

I would recommend a smaller video head to clear the battery and utilize the full range of the slider. Without adding too much bulk. I'm using the 4170 head from Smallrig on the S series sliders. It has a leveling base and arca swiss qr. And it’s pretty slim and compact. amzn.to/3Awjfg1

You can add them to raw files by using Canons digital photo professional, it's fairly similar to Adobe RAW.

@ nice! I'll check this out. Thanks, Thomas!