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Glad you enjoyed it. I’d like to make more filmic videos. It’s difficult to make knife sharpening interesting. Yes, I’ve seen it. My initial impression is it’d slow me down when busy. The WM-200 is a simple tool that does the job in 3 seconds. I’m a simple man. I’m not a fan of over complicating things. It’s hard enough to make a living from being a knife sharpener and adding more complexity when it’s not needed seems unnecessary to me. Having said that, I do like engineered things and trinkets. I just see it’d slow me down when busy. Plus I have this whole theory that the world is obsessing over knife angles far too much for no good reason. I’m contouring up a video slowly in my head about it. I’ve made comment about it under some of my videos. I appreciate your view and encouragement. Thanks.

Thanks for your comment. I’d love to respond but the translation doesn’t make sense.

I’m doing more and more but I’d have to win a lottery to be able to afford one of those. I did buy an obscure contraption that is like the TAS arm for the Tormek but can’t figure out how to use it. Might video showing it in case anyone has ever seen it.

I bet I’d be able to coach you into perfect looking and performing edges. Do you have an old style knife jig or the horrible new type? I can’t stand the new one. Nowhere to put your thumb. Makes it awkward to hold.

@iSharpen thanks so much for that coaching offer. I'm watching your body and hand positions to get comfortable. I honestly think it's just practic an time. As a tradesman, I know it takes time to learn any skilled movements. Leave this with me for a bit. If I have any questions I'll be sure to reach out. Thanks again

@@buckw65 I used to be a welder. Maybe that’s my cheat code for stability and smoothness. Also, put a few drops of oil on your rest so the jig glides smoothly.

@iSharpen hahaha I was going to reference welding for body and hand positioning. But I wasn't sure how you'd take that.... obviously very well 🤣

Depends if it has any chromium in it. If it’s high carbon stainless steel (has chromium) no. It should be fine. If it’s a “blue” steel (no chromium) then yes, it probably will. I’d suggest only trying it on Damascus steel.

@@iSharpen one is a blue steel number 1 and the other one is a white steel number 2

@@H2559537 the point to coffeeing a Damascus knife is to bring out the patterns between the two steels. This is normally done with acid but instant coffee works as well. If your knife isn’t made with Damascus steel then don’t do it.

@@iSharpen I understand the point. It's hard to explain as my knives are made from "damascus carbon steel". You can look it up : kikuzuki blue steel number 1 damascus gyuto and hideo kitaoka white steel number 2 damascus deba. I hope this explains my question better. Thanks.

@@H2559537 if it’s Damascus it’ll darken. As for rusting, I’d just use the normal things you use to keep it from rusting. I’m not an expert in this field but I’d start with a light coating of vegetable oil or some other food safe oil or maybe even a light rub with cutting board bees wax based compound. Anything that is food safe.

It'll be a show piece for when customers come so they can remember me. When a knife takes this long it turns the corner onto hobby land.

Makes much more sense doing it your way.

I’m the only one as far as I can tell. I’m thinking of doing a video explaining why and how I think it’s the best way by far. I’ve been doing it this way for quite a while now and my tips are always perfect. Doing it the other way always ends up with odd looking incomplete tips and weird looking heels too. This way I get good tips and heels. I think it’s the way everyone should do them.

I’d be interested in seeing a video on you explaining the benefits of starting at the tip. I’ve had the bevel widen at the tip several times.

@@hbarncraftworks3447 me too, when I started off. That’s what got me thinking about a better way. I’m 100% convinced that doing it this way is the best way if you care about how your tips look and perform.

That makes a LOT of sense!

Yeah I saw it when it first came out. Not convinced it's necessary for me yet. I like that I can set the angle in 3 seconds then get on with the job. As for the error, I've measured the worn out part against the new one and the more worn out it gets the higher the eventual angle by about 1-2 degrees and you know? I'm think "who cares?" Angles aren't essentially set in stone anyway. They were determined by some random human and treated as the word of god ever since. I say pfffft! As long as they're around or preferably a bit less than 15 per side they'll do the job. This obsession with exact angles makes no difference in real life use which is what I deal in day in and day out. I can deliver a knife with a measured angle of anywhere between 13 and 18 per side and I'd put money on no one being able to tell the difference. The only time it makes a difference is on really thick knives when the 13 creates a large bevel but I simply dial it back a bit so it "looks right". Thoughts?

@@iSharpen I think the difference setting the AngleMaster on a tapered bevel can be greater than you think.

@@cbwx34 Nah, the bevels are 1-3 degrees, half of that translated down to a tiny 1mm bevel right on the edge is almost insignificant. I think people are making way too much of a big deal about micro angles. It makes almost no difference. In fact the only difference might be on the bleeding edge of BESS testing but even then the deburring has more of an effect on sharpness than a poofteenth of a degree of angle on a bevel that's often less than 1mm. In my opinion, the only thing that matters is; does a knife cut well in it's intended purpose? And there's a great deal of flexibility when it comes to that as almost any knife at almost any angle if ground and deburred properly will do more than a good enough job for almost all intended purposes. After having ground thousands of knives, I'm convinced. I've been thinking of this a lot lately.

@@iSharpen The taper on some knives can be 5 deg. or greater per side... like I said, bigger than you're saying. Just pointing out that it was bigger than your "concern" for the error in your damaged AngleMaster. You're right, exact angles don't matter.

@@cbwx34 Very few kitchen knives (which is what I sharpen 98% of the time) are that large. I'm not that concerned. The reason is that I've sharpened thick cleavers at 50 degrees and thin Jap knives at 24 degrees and they all slice cigarette paper and glide through all foods. Angles are probably more of a concern with longevity and fragility than sharpness and I'm in the business of sharpness...as long as people stay away from trying to pry frozen foods apart with $1,000 super thin jap knives like they were crow bars I think I'm good at any small-ish angle for almost any knife. In fact I'd be able to deliver sharp knives with correct looking angles even without an angle master...just as all the belt sanding guys do. They don;t even measure angles. They just guess and slap it on a fast moving belt sander without a single care or concern about angle. The same goes for stone sharpeners. They never measure. And yet we all produce hyper sharp knives. I think that's interesting and my conclusion is that exact angles make almost no difference to "guess and close enough".

I’m not a metallurgist or a chemist but that SG stone can work miracles. Can’t explain it but there’s very little it can’t do. Appreciate the view.

Don't make jokes. It's no fun having to walk around with a harness. 🤣

Yeah, the SG is a fantastic and vastly under rated wheel. It’s only fine is being a consumable. As for the KS123, I remain unconvinced it’s better than the old WM200 although that also is consumable. I’m a pretty stubborn bastard. I like simplicity.

@@iSharpen I got the diamond wheels but I do find myself returning to the SG more than I thought I would. As for the JS-123 I will let you know how I go when it arrives.

@@johnbhancock I remain unconvinced on the diamond wheels. Too sensitive and today (for example, I have 50 knives on my bench. My water will become murky very quickly and I can;t be stopping all the time to refresh my water and pour in more of their conditioner. Too expansive and time consuming. I am looking into getting a set of custom CBN wheels made though. If I pull the trigger on that I'll make an extensive video and might even start selling them if I approve them. Today's 50 knives will all be done on the good old trusty SG-250 which I love so much. It's pretty fresh at 245mm too so it won't interfere with the leather wheel.

Cool. Yeah, he's my life. Just me and him and that's all we both need.

I was afraid you'd say that. Luckily today I did 35 knives so it's a bit black and slick again now. I normally only do it yearly but after a few more knives I reckon I'll be able to do it again and to show why as well. I have left a description of the procedure in the pinned comment for now to give you an idea. Sure does look purdy in bright green though. 🙂

Good question Darren. 1) Too expensive 2) Too messy 3) Too coarse Watch this short to see the grits th-cam.com/users/shortsUJb5tpf7DTc

Exactly. But it also happened to match what was there. I’ve done a few Muela hunting knives and they’ve all been 20 per side (40 total). It’s a good hardy angle for knives that will encounter wood and bone.

@@iSharpen Makes perfect sense. What's your method for finding an existing angle on a knife? Or is it the sharpie and change the angles til it's gone?

I use sharpie to find it’s existing angle then use the angle master to read the existing angle. But most hunting knives are 20 degrees per side in my limited experience. All Muela knives have been 40 degrees total.

If it was a cutting guard I’d agree with you but why the grooves increasing in size? Have you ever seen one in use?

Thanks Ken! Good to see ya.

They have some nice custom knives. Never had one on my bench from memory.

Could be but why all the different sized cut outs? It looks like they serve a special purpose. Previous suggestions of a groove maker for cake decoration makes sense but we need confirmation. Thanks for commenting and watching. 😉

They don’t go out the door unless they are but that last one was particularly swooshy.

@@iSharpen swoohy is definitely a winner

Could be. Would like to see one in use. The cutouts are pretty close to each other but that’s plausible.

🤣

I’m filming, that’s the owner operating the knife because I couldn’t figure out how to open it…lol. He’s an older gentleman with an incredible knife collection.

Ai in videos is a scourge. LOVE your username!

I love him so much.

We are simple men.

La neta si xd​@@iSharpen

80 = 240 320 = 960 1,000 = 1,500 I mostly use 320 unless I’m repairing damage or Re profiling then I’ll use the 80 then 320. I rarely use the 1,000 but when I do I get a nice shine. Not quite mirror but close.

@@iSharpen Much appreciated! I’ve started a sharpening business here in Canada using a tormek T-8 aswell and this is very handy info! I have a SJ-250 on the way as well. Thanks brother!

@@laynerepas6216good to hear! You should watch all my videos. You won’t need the SJ. The SG will do everything you need. Happy to help you if you have any requests or questions let me know.

Let us know how it turns out. That little pin on the back is going to be a bugger to get right. It's pretty crucial.

@iSharpen that's good info on the pin. I will tell him to print 1 and I'll try it. Not much use having 3 with a wrongly located pin

Glad you enjoyed it. I've sent them this video, they're getting back to me next week. I also would be interested to see how much a titanium one would cost. I think they print them out with metal printing which is fascinating. Apparently they use powdered metal, super heat it then use a laser to shape it. Not sure how they'd get that little pin underneath though. With plastic I can sort of understand how they'd do it but not the metal version. I will keep everyone updated. Keep an eye out on this channel.

I was tossing up just making one by hand but I think the dimensions have to be exact. Still might. Is that a double dare? 😂

@@iSharpen make a template while it is still in good shape

@@rhinejuice Yes, was thinking the same thing but that pin on the back has me a bit stumped. I can make the shape and the top but how would I get that pin to stick out at exactly the right spot?

I love a permanent solution too. But any metal should be fine. Stainless works too.