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Not off the top of my head, what I do know it was a National branded seal. I will look it up and get back to you. I’m responding so you know that I did read your comment and I will get back to you.

Thanks very much. I appreciate the effort to find the part number for those seals

@@timbo019590 Three hours over a couple of days I Finally found it. 7 years after starting g this build… fortunately I kept a spreadsheet of part numbers, sources, and prices. Yep I’m a bit touched. Anyway here is is. National 471652, Timken: (CR) 11123 ID:1-1/8 OD: 1-5/8 L:1/4 I looked on RockAuto, where I got the original order, unfortunately the part number didn’t come up. Amazon listed out of stock, not a Jaguar part so SNG not an option. Sadly I can’t find a source anymore. The usual suspects are SNG Barrett, RockAuto, and last resort, Amazon. This has to be the longest IRS build in history. Still not done, sitting in the same spot as it was 4 years ago the last time I worked in it.

There are 144 different parts numbers for the seals. Imotion.com does have the seals. Timken has a cross reference for seals. Do an internet search for seals cross reference and the Tonkin seal interchange is on the all sealing.com website.

I just saw your other replies with part numbers thx for that I can top your rebuld 25 years but most of it nothing happened life and 911’s got in my way I will search based on numbers you gave me I also have a friend helping and what a difference it’s actually coming together

We’ll get a gold star for enduring the lock wire video. The video is boring as hell, but the content is very important. Cheers mate!

Sorry @serious7280 about the music this is one if my earliest videos so it’s leaning by trial by fire. The gloves… well two reasons 1 I work in the healthcare vertical, so gloves keep my hand from getting g greased stained. And I have very dry skin, the solvents and grime make my hand crack and bleed. Sorry you found off putting, but grateful you watched the videos. Thank you!!

@@JagMods fair enough thx for videos

@@aloneranger3980 Good point, Probably not. However the radius arms can be pressed in with a vise.

Yea, I know I kinda got my words mixed up while I was… well confused. I’ve stated a video on my screw ups and that one was on the top of my list. Good on you for catching it. Thank you so much for commenting and pointing it out. Hopefully people will read your comment! Thanx. Again, mate!

Working on Mercedes, BMW and Audi as I have makes me wonder where they get their build quality reputation from especially todays cars. Mercedes from the same era as the XJ6 can corrode in a spectacular way and hide it well.

Sng Barrett has a manual it’s an online version but will have everything your looking for the same thing is available via otspubs.com. The price is under $100 and you can print the whole thing if you’re so inclined. It’s where I get my part numbers as well as the instructions. Hard bound series 3 are available on Amazon but frankly I think it’s worthless the series 1 and 2 are very insightful

I’m trying to remember, I know that mine gave me a little bit of trouble getting the little dumb shops out of the differential. I’m assuming that’s what you’re talking about. Can I get back to you on this? Sorry I don’t have an immediate answer. it’s been several years since I’ve done it in a lot happened anyway, I’ll get back to you either way I promise

If you’re talking about separating the part, the bolts under the way up in the carrier, those can be a bitch. I know I used a press to get them off and I was pretty close to 20 tons before it popped and I had to go change my shorts it scared me. The factory recommends using Loctite to hold all that stuff together. If you use Loctite read your gonna have to place some heat to get it to come apart. Just be very cognizant that aluminum melts very easily so be careful. Let me know if I’m closer way off base.

I wondered that myself, that information isn’t listed on the box.

I believe it was bolt and washers using the old center race as a guide.

She didn’t know. Lol.

Thank you for watching the video 🙂 SNG Barratt for jag specific stuff. Bearings and seals rock auto.

Sorry mate it was painful to do, just trying to make a painfully tedious process entertaining.

Search for “Classic Jaguar Parts “ look for HTTPS://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com Select Make, Jaguar then model pick the series you’ve got. If you give me a bit more info on what exactly your working on, the year and model of your jaguar, I will look in my parts books too. Let me know how you get on. Thanx for watching and commenting Mark /Jagmods

Oh sorry, I see now. 🙄 The hubs. Let me know the year and which XJ

1976 jag xj6l hub carrier assembly parts. There is a thin washer or shim and s spacer that fits just inside of it on the outer edge of each side

@@kevinmcbrain8434 There are two on each side. If your referring to the shims between the hub and the fulcrum arm that attaches hub to the diff.

So the 2 pieces that are closest to the fulcrum arm on each side of the carrier. I am saying that the outer washer(shim?) and the next piece in that is a machine piece of stainless steel are the ones im missing. When i brought my hub assemblies to have the wheel bearings pressed they didn't come back with Those pieces and i don't know where to find them

Good one!! Have say that made me giggle. Thanx mate!

No I haven’t moved on, I’m self employed, and the whole Covid crap damn near put me under so I’ve been play catch up, then there’s the devastating event that I lost my son the while shooting my last video, it’s been really hard for me to keep all the balls in the air but I believe I’m getting back on my feet again. Don’t give up on me. Thank you for your very kind words. Cheers! Mark

@@JagMods So sorry for your loss. I still find your instructional videos fun to watch and they are still relevant to my current project. I wish you well and thanks!

@@colincarroll9726 Thank you. I will be posting videos again soon. How soon? That I don’t know yet. 🤦‍♂️

@@colincarroll9726 Yes, I… working on it. I’m still playing catch up. I’m glad the video provided some help on your E build. That makes it worth while Cheers!

Thank you! She was a lot of fun! She’s past away now, she was great fun! OFC was the best pet I’ve ever had. Sweet, loving , cuddly, and Uber smart, and an absolute joy. I miss her so.

Thank you!

Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching :)

Thank you for watching the video, and the only thing I can offer is to make sure that the splines are REALLY clean, I made a scraper out of a piece of metal to clean out the splines after I cleaned up the parts in the blast cabinet. Check for dings in the splines on the half-shafts as well as the carrier / hub assembly. I (very lightly) ran a knife sharpening stone across the surfaces where the carrier / hub and half-shaft join in marriage. I did the same on the carrier / hub slines using a ceramic (kitchen) knife sharpener rod - don't tell my wife! all of this to make sure there aren't any burrs that might be holding up the matrimony. I screwed up the first one, had to take it apart (not to self, don't use red Loctite because it requires an oxy/ace torch to break their bond - I left that part out of the video LOL). i had to scrape / sand / burn off ALL residual Loctite off the splines. I used a piece metal which just happened to be close to the thickness of the splines and pushed it through the splines on the carrier. All of this Pfaff to get the two bits joined together - worse than a marriage counselor. No so related... but Why use Loctite in the first place? Loctite prevents the splines between the carrier / hub and the half-shaft from making noise - realistically fills up the backlash between the two bits. Bottom line, these bits have to be super-duper clean in order to get them to mate.

@@JagMods Thank you so much for your reply! I recently bought a 93 Jag XJS and your videos have been a godsend as I’m doing some restoration work 💪🏼. Also thank you for the advice, I thought it was going to be a simple put together, bolt in job but as the hub wasn’t connecting with the axle - I knew something was up lmao. I am seeing some burrs from the previous wheel hub (hub grinded out the inner wheel bearings because the outer wheel bearing got stuck and crunched in between the axle shaft and the hub). I’ll definitely do what you listed and hopefully get this project knocked out by this weekend. Thank you again! Also are there any repair manuals you would recommend for the 93 Jag XJS?

@@JagMods Turns out I had little micro burrs just around the axle shaft. I filed it down with a whetstone like you instructed and it slid in w no issue. Thanks again!

@@Angela-ix4eb Also, when putting this all back together and once you've got the carrier so it fits on the splined shaft, Do a dry run. mark up the output shaft spline with a sharpie of your color preference, I used blue. Slide the carrier on and see how far it fits up the spline. make sure the carrier isn't up against where the splines begin to taper off. This is important because when tightening the nut that old the carrier on the half-shaft, you want to make sure you're tightening against the half-shaft bearing seal ring (thingy) / the flat part of the half shaft - not just the end of the splines on the halfshaft. This is really important. because over time, this can lead to cracks in the splined halfshaft - worst case the damn thing snapping off. If the carrier is right up to the end of the splines, then the inner wheel bearing shim on the carrier is missing is the wrong one. Check out the pfaff on getting the right shim in the previous video (I think). Yes, there are. Amazon has a softbound XJ-S Service Manual. Its an abridged version of the original 6 volume book. I personally think it's worthless. for example. replace an alternator - I'm paraphrasing here, but essentially it reads "slacken" the belt tensioner loosen remove the bolts and pull out the alternator - installation? the reverse of the removal... SERIOUSLY??!!! Thank you for that Capitan obvious! What's missing is the the swaybar has to be unbolted along with the transmission cooler, not to mention a series of long 3/8 extensions coupled together with universal joints to get to the bottom bracket bolt from behind the exhaust down pipe. SNG Barratt has an online version of the XJ-S and XJ Series III manual. It's very slick! has training material, parts manual & Service bulletins. OTSPUB or OTPUBS offers the same thing. but their assholes to deal with. Especially technical support. Also, keep in mind moving the special PDF reader from one computer to another is a pain in the ass because the software is licensed to 1 computer. Changing computers will require contacting technical support and request a new license key - don't get me started.... LOL let us know how it goes! Cheers Mark @ Jag Mods

Thank you for the kind words. Check the comments on this video. I think it's about 5 months ago. I responded to a viewer called Chronicals of Redek. my reply is a good place to start. Keep me posted on your progress, and I will be happy to answer any questions If you're breaking rotors, then one of three things are going on. A. The rotor isn't positioned properly on the top of the shaft. or is the wrong rotor. Also keep in mind if you're breaking rotors, then the cap will be collateral damage. replace them both. B. The cap isn't on correctly. sadly you can put it on wrong, The cap is keyed with the distributor so hunt around and make sure it's on solid. even without being screwed in, the cap should seat firmly. C. the distributor is worn. the center shaft isn't rotaing on its access but more in an oval than on it's axis. Other things that will cause your symptoms. 1. fuel pump 2. bad coil and or ballast 3. Coil not properly gournded. I've run into this with my Grey XJ6. I got lazy and didn't make a new coil holder for the MSD coil I added. I just bent up the original so it was a snug fit, until I picked up a aluminum flat par. anyway, the coil would rotate about 10 degrees, then the car would quit. It that wouldn't make a man bald, I don't know what would!!! 4. cooked or broken ignition wires. carefully disconnect the wires and check with an ohm meter. there should be little to no resistance. high resistance would indicate a corrodid or cooked wire. Broken wires are also something to look for. Broken wires sometimes can be identified by touching the insolation while the wire is energized. if the wire feels warm or hot to the touch, then it needs to be replaced. 5. less obvious - cam chain tensioner worn. popping off the cam covers and check the cam chain for slack. There should be absolutely no slack. How many miles on your Jag? I experienced this with my '86 XJ6 it always quit when coming to a stop. Aka deacceleration. The deacceleration would put just enough backward thrust on the timing chain to cause it to be out of alignment. then cranking it over and stoping on just the right cam positoin would pull up the slack, and the engine would fire right up. another head scratcher. too up the slack and the car has never ran better. thank you again for the kind words, and thank you for watching my video. please reach out and I'll be happy to answer any question. Sincerely @jagmods

Keep us up to date on your progress. Reach out if I can help

There’s a couple of places the most prevalent is the online version which is available from the major jaguar parts suppliers online like Mossmotors.com, SNG Barratt and Jaguar Heritage Trust, Or rather obscure resellers like otspubs.com & Book4cars.com. All of the above offer the exact same electronic product. The XKE or EType manuals are microfiche copies of the original manuals. The plus side is these also include (well at least for the XJ’s) service bulletins and dealer training material which is very useful. My experience with otspubs has been less than stellar. There tech support is probably the worst ever!! I kid you not! They don’t answer the phone and take days or in my case weeks to respond to an email. Then when they do the response doesn’t always resolve the question, but prompts for more information or questions. It took months for me to get a support ticket resolved. It really sucked, and not in a good way! So why did I purchase from OTSPUBS? At the time I purchased my XJ manuals (both online and in a flash drive) they were the only game in town. I’ve have many dealings with SNG Barratt and my experience has dealing with them has been excellent. If price is an issue, then otspubs is the least expensive of the bunch. Oh one more thing. These products all require a special viewer called locklizard which is a viewer for their proprietary encrypted pdf manual / files. It can be installed on only one computer. So be very mindful how you want to view it and where. Additional locklizard licenses are available. If memory serves me, it’s like purchasing another online manual. Once you get over 3 manuals, it’s cheaper to purchase the entire Jaguar model set, which as I understand it, and don’t hold me to it, the viewer can then be installed on multiple computers. Oh, the licensing is based upon email address so a possible way round the single computer license is to purchase each manual under a different email address - and don’t let otspub know that’s what your doing or they will combine the additional manual licenses under one email address, thus voiding the ability to install the software on multiple computers. Come time to replace a computer, you will have to get a new viewer license. My advice contact them before you need it and you have your new computer set up and ready to go. The viewer doesn’t work on a tablet either. You’ll have to Contact Support requesting a new license for a new computer. The old license will then be deactivated. Paper manual? Try books4cars.com. They are located in Seattle Wa USA. Otherwise eBay, jag-lovers forum, or National jaguar club want ads. I have a paper manual for my series 1 2 and 3 XJ saloons and one for the XJS’s. The XJS and the series 3 saloon manual is an abridged version of the Jaguar service manual and personally I think it’s worthless. For example replacing an alternator instructions were something like loosen & remove the fasteners, slacken the belt, remove it, replace with new, then reverse the uninstall process. Myimmediate thought was thank you for that captain obvious! What missing is where the fasteners were located, how many, and the critical bits of info like removing the radiator hose protection plate, loosen the transmission cooler, and unbolting the sway bar sway in order to wiggle the alternator out between the crossmember and the radiator. Thank you for watching my videos I really appreciate it!

Thank you! Hopefully this will get your Jaguar back on the road. Leave a comment and share your success.

Thanks for the sub! Keep us up to date on your progress :)

Yea, I know. Sorry about that. I’ve been considering re editing my earlier videos cause the music drowning me out. those videos. The camera was too far away and I am soft spoken, so I’ve been told. 🤔 Thank you for watching my videos, I hope you find them useful.

The Jaguar ignition module found in a couple of places. If you want the Original Equipment replacement Jaguar Part number DAC2087. The whole unit can be found at SNGBarratt search for the Jaguar Part number above. a Non Jaguar quality replacement can be found at Rock Auto too . www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jaguar,1985,xj6,4.2l+l6,1178096,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172 - I'd probably go with the Standard Motor Products brand is a decent substitute for 3rd party replacement parts Just the internal bits? The OE ignition amplifier is just a HEI unit on any late 70's -80's GM / Chev V8 HEI ignition. The condensor? I had kicking around from the trials and tribulations of erratic spark on the Series II XJ6. The Jaguar part number is JLM9656. Any ignition condensor will work, as long as the pigtail isn't too short - too long can be cut and a new end put on, oh and the mount has to be in the right place too. Generic Auto part store ignition condensor will work too - These usually have a bracket that tack welded onto condensor. The amplifier unit in the video is an MSD unit - you'll want to use the MSD Coil too ditching the stock ballast with the stock coil. If you use the stock coil, then go with a stock GM ignition amplifier. The MSD amplifier will cook the coil over time. The MSD Part number is a 5596 and the coil is MSD 8202 Blaster 2 coil. Both of these parts can be found on Amazon or your local Autoparts store (special order) / speed shop. The MSD coils have a larger diameter, so stock coil mount won't quite fit around the coil. I made a new bracket out of a piece of aluminum flat bar. Tools I used are very basic tools. A vise, hack saw, drill, hammer, a metal file, and a piece PVC pipe to bend the aluminum around (don't use the coil as a form it will dent it), masking tape to make a template of the old coil for basic dimensions, then add the additional amount required for the bigger cable by determining the difference in diameter between the stock coil, and the MSD coil. I hope this answers your question, and please post how you're getting on. I do read and reply to every comment. Cheers! @jagmods

@@JagMods Hey, thanks for such a thorough reply. Thank You, I am rebuilding that module, seems my capacitor is working and the other black relay I think it is, just wiring rusted etc.. thanks again, I hope it starts up any day now just like yours did :)

Let me or us know how you get along

@@JagMods I cleaned up the ignition module, no start. :( tried changing relay, no start, still no signal to fuel pump.. as in power, but to be honest, I'm not sure how to check it... it was making that static sound, now no sound... I changed the cable, I even cleaned up all inside ignition module, capacitor built up ohms to 19 and fell... so that's working etc... nxt thing I was even thinking to make a claim w insurance to investigate this thoroughly and see this is fixed for good. ? any thoughts on how that might go ?

Check in the comments on this video below, specifically Tyler Rogers. He had a similar issue. Let me know if that doesn't help. Has the car ever ran? is it new to you? in a no start / run condition? I'm assuming you've checked the compression and the condition of the spark plugs. 1. Have you checked for spark? I believe in the Video, I had my handy dandy spark light that I put between the plug and the plug wire. this can also be accomplished by pulling a spark plug, then grounding the electrode on the engine. this is best done in a dark area so you can see if there's a spark or not. This can also be accomplished by pulling a plug wire, and leaving a gap between the plug wire and the distributor cap, or the plug. If there's spark when the engine is turned over, then you'll hear it, and may even see it. The handy dandy spark checker is worth it's weight in gold. I got mine from the local automotive store, or on amazon. That being said, are you sure you don't have any spark?. The next tool that you'll need is a multi-tester for checking voltage. 2. What is the condition of the battery. Resting it should have somewhere between 12.0 - 12.75V. if the battery is any less than 11.5V resting - the car won't start. 3. Measure the voltage across both poles on the coil. it should read about the same as the battery maybe 1 or 1.5 volts less (If you've got a ballast resister in place). 4. check the voltage between the battery + to the negative on the coil. you should get full battery voltage. 5. do the same but in reverse battery - and coil + should be the same - full battery voltage 6. Voltage out of the coil. should be about the same as the battery maybe 1.5V less if there's a ballast Resister in the mix. Get back to me, with answers to the above questions, and I'll point you in the next logical direction. 7. Is there any side to side movement in the distributor? if the bushes are worn, this will also play a havoc on trying to start. A less obvious issue, is on my '86 XJ6 (grey one) had a very similar issue. but was quite baffling. I had spark, I had fuel pressure, the injectors are firing, but it still wouldn't start. The issue was the cam chain on the intake side was too sloppy and the cam was out of time with the pistons & the ignition. The distributor is driven from the crankshaft. so if the valve timing is off it won't start either. Well Consistently. On a rare occasions the engine would fire right up and run great - then go for a drive get just far enough that getting home was a hike, come up to a stop after deacceleration, and the engine would quit and not start again. The deacceleration is what tipped me off about the cam timing being the next place to check. This does require two special tools available at SNGBarratt Anyway, get back to me with a bit more info and I'll point you in the next logical direction. Good luck mate!

That is great news! Thank you so much for sharing your success. That is awesome. I love to read the info supplied actually works on somebody else’s Jag.

@@JagMods yeah Im going to replace fuel pump and filter next it seems to be the original and over working it's self but other then that these are pretty great cars Thanx.

No brother named Darrell. A neighbor named Darrell though, 😆

Ya know I bought the moss mtrs remote bleeder kit. 140bucks for 2 hoses, a couple of cheap ass metal pieces for mounting and speed bleeders. Kit would have been okay except one of the speed bleeders leaks something awful. Now I remember why I put down my english cars. It's not the cars, it's the trash the suppliers sell us.

Well I tried. I had a few that weren’t so perfect. About 7ft worth of screw ups

@@JagMods I found that tubing is cheaper on Amazon instead of fed hill. I suggested to that guy to put us together a remote bleeder kit that us pipe benders could buy. Never heard anything. Fosseway gets 139pounds for a couple of rubber hoses and a bracket!😳 These guys better hope I dont get a hair up my ass to start making kits for $29.95. There is no reason these shouldn't be hard piped. In fact, I would have preferred it!

@@jagboy69 That’s what I want to make is hard pipe remote blenders.will see how it goes.

@@JagMods If you need any thing machined, hit me up and I'll see if I can help out.

Oh, I've done a windshield in a Series II and Series III not very successfully, mind you. I worked on loosening the adhesive for 5 days on the Series III before I attempted to remove the glass. I got it out in one piece no cracks or anything. I set down strategically so no stress would be placed on the glass. I went back out into the garage the next morning, to find a crack running from one corner to the other. I wanted to cry. haha😭😱😠

@@JagMods Hey if it makes you feel any better. I just reinstalled my IRS and the last thing I did was bleed the brakes. Low and behold, my left caliper started pissing on the ground. So I had to drop it again last night while I wait on parts. I KNEW I should have pressure tested the brakes, but I've kit a ton of calipers in my life and never had one leak... UNTIL NOW! :-( I wanted to throw a match at it!

@@jagboy69 OH, man. That is a pisser. For what ever it's worth, If I was your neighbor, I'd be there to lend you a hand. Sorry I feel your pain. I did the rear end on my 3/4T Suburban, full floater, 4:11 limited slip diff (8.2 liter big block)- it's a beast! Anyway, the LSD clutches grab BAD when going around a left hand corner. It took a full bottle of friction reducer and it still jerks a little around a left hander. The kick in the nuts is I'm not sure what I did wrong. My next video (if I ever get to it) is going to cover the screw ups during the build. Bench (pre) bleeding and pressure testing the system. I've been tinkering on making a pressure tester / bleeder - haven't gotten too far yet. The calipers in the TH-cam build, have been sitting on the shelf since 2015, I sure as shit hope they don't leak too. I'm also kicking around making remote bleeders. Though, I figure if I do, that will be the first place the brakes will spring a leak. I don't have a mill to put a proper sealing flat. I'm still on the fence with that one.

@@JagMods I did the cunifer tubing and the Eastwood flare tool. Worked great! Trouble I've found is all this aftermarket rubber crap comes from china and they suck at making rubber! It has a real short life. I have the 4speed car and it had 3.54 gears and I hated the car. SO I swapped to 2.88 gears because 3.07 wasnt available. I hope it makes cruising more comfortable or I'm cashing in and dumping this car. I just have never enjoyed driving it and that's a crime.

On the remote bleeders, I tried to source parts for mine and said F it. I bought the moss kit. If a guy could put together a decent priced kit, he'd do good on fleabay. The couple of kits on the market are STUPID MONEY for what they are! 🤬

Why yes it would. at the time I didn't have a lathe, nor anyway other than sanding to reduce the end. I figured I take my chances.

Certainly. How may I help?

"electrons wearing down the reluctor?... I know right? Well I have seen the tips of the reluctor rounded off like a big blob of metal on the tip. I'm not really sure what you mean about the multi-tester in this tune up video, cause the only time I busted out the meter, is to do a poor demonstration of checking the HT lead resistance. Thank you for watching.

Yes there is a play list, jaguar IRS build start to finish. th-cam.com/play/PLdCPjvtCPFNdFIdyeCMXOwS5N4YdYD9gV.html The first videos aren’t very good with respect to my interaction but the information is all there

Thank you for the kind words. I’m glad you enjoyed them and found these useful