WOW! Ive never seen anyone address this issue concerning poor spark. Hell, xj6's at 35 plus yrs old would have corroded(green) wiring there and cracked covering. You broke it down very well and as hard as times are right now you kept everything "real" and light-hearted. I'm really tired of people talking SO SERIOUS and lying at the same time, at LEAST humor us. good job. Tell me advertising doesn't pay, after watching that very, very informative video I decided to gaze at your 2 recommended sites to purchase parts. Now, I was already aware of these sites, but with the myriad of parts sites for XJ6's, I totally forgot about them and had purchased numerous parts from other vendors at almost twice the cost. Now they're back at the top of the list.
Thank you for the kind words. Good to know you saved a couple of bucks. I don't get any kick backs from any vendors I recommend. I'm in the process (or at least thinking about it) putting a web storefront up for the weird stuff I use, tools I make that aren't available anymore. Thant kinda stuff. Crusty wires. I always cringe when I have to disturb any wiring. My '74 Series 2 XJ6 is the worst! It has crustiest oil soaked wiring I've the ill pleasure to deal with. Thank you for taking the time to comment It really means a lot to me. Sincerely, Mark
Working on Mercedes, BMW and Audi as I have makes me wonder where they get their build quality reputation from especially todays cars. Mercedes from the same era as the XJ6 can corrode in a spectacular way and hide it well.
Dude you are great! Not some bs talking for 25 minutes before you actually do something, won’t say any names here (living with a classic) but anyway you are a great help! I’ve got a 84 xj6 and I might need this. Thanks again!
Hello mate, I'm your latest subscriber. I'v got a couple of series 3's. They're not running at present, but I get injoyment just looking at them. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. See you soon.
Thanks for a great video. I'm a new subscriber and I own a 1982 Jaguar XJ6 series3. Thanks for filming and sharing these great tips on how to fix these great Jaguars.
You are very welcome. These are beautiful cars and deserve a second chance. All of my XJ saloons were destined to be crushed. I couldn’t bear the thought so I bought them. None of them run when I bought them, so with a little TLC their back on the road.
Hi! Love your content. I had a quick question regarding the same topic. My car randomly wouldn’t start one day after trying to get some groceries, I diagnosed it was a failed distributor rotor, I had also changed the ignition module and condenser, module being a Bosch, condenser being off an older model jag as they don’t stock the exact part in my country. Anyways the car started right up afterwards it ran for 20 or so minutes and stalled and wouldn’t start again. I switched back to the old module it started for a second and stalled again. I’m Kind of lost now as where to go from here. Any help or advice would be much appreciated!!
Thank you for the kind words. Check the comments on this video. I think it's about 5 months ago. I responded to a viewer called Chronicals of Redek. my reply is a good place to start. Keep me posted on your progress, and I will be happy to answer any questions If you're breaking rotors, then one of three things are going on. A. The rotor isn't positioned properly on the top of the shaft. or is the wrong rotor. Also keep in mind if you're breaking rotors, then the cap will be collateral damage. replace them both. B. The cap isn't on correctly. sadly you can put it on wrong, The cap is keyed with the distributor so hunt around and make sure it's on solid. even without being screwed in, the cap should seat firmly. C. the distributor is worn. the center shaft isn't rotaing on its access but more in an oval than on it's axis. Other things that will cause your symptoms. 1. fuel pump 2. bad coil and or ballast 3. Coil not properly gournded. I've run into this with my Grey XJ6. I got lazy and didn't make a new coil holder for the MSD coil I added. I just bent up the original so it was a snug fit, until I picked up a aluminum flat par. anyway, the coil would rotate about 10 degrees, then the car would quit. It that wouldn't make a man bald, I don't know what would!!! 4. cooked or broken ignition wires. carefully disconnect the wires and check with an ohm meter. there should be little to no resistance. high resistance would indicate a corrodid or cooked wire. Broken wires are also something to look for. Broken wires sometimes can be identified by touching the insolation while the wire is energized. if the wire feels warm or hot to the touch, then it needs to be replaced. 5. less obvious - cam chain tensioner worn. popping off the cam covers and check the cam chain for slack. There should be absolutely no slack. How many miles on your Jag? I experienced this with my '86 XJ6 it always quit when coming to a stop. Aka deacceleration. The deacceleration would put just enough backward thrust on the timing chain to cause it to be out of alignment. then cranking it over and stoping on just the right cam positoin would pull up the slack, and the engine would fire right up. another head scratcher. too up the slack and the car has never ran better. thank you again for the kind words, and thank you for watching my video. please reach out and I'll be happy to answer any question. Sincerely @jagmods
The best why I added enhanced spark to my '68 XKE was to get rid of the D-22 dizzy & install an EDIS ignition system with XJ-40 6 tower coil. Open the gap on the spark plugs to .050 & life has been great since.
@@JagMods I've had my set up for 9 years. Once you use a laptop to establish advance/retard then nothing to do except change plugs whenever. Once done...it's done.
Very good video with detailed information. I have a 1988 Jaguar XJS V12, every time when I start the car, I have to turn the ignition key multi-times to be able to start the car, there is no cranking sound if it doesn't work, if it works, the engine starts without a problem. I consulted the car mechanic, was told it might be a bad ignition switch. When the car engine is idling, I can occasionally hear a tiny electric spark sound from somewhere near the ignition coil on top, but not able to pinpoint the exact location. Any idea what might be the problem?
My first thought was the neutral safety switch may be the issue. Taking it in and out of gear while the key is in the secondary position aka the run position (not start). then attempt to start it. My green XJ6 is that way. I've added it to my list. :) The neutral safety switch is located under the console. It's nothing more than a micro-switch that opens the circuit when the gear leaver is in park. that being said, if the spark sound IS related to the no crank issue; and it's near the coil. then check the coil for loose wires. The ignition switch closes the circuit to the ignition and tells the coil and other down stream bits to wake up, which intern tells the fuel injection module (in the boot) to wake up. Another relay is triggered when the key is flipped to the 3rd position (aka Start). Sending power to the starter, and telling the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system. I would look at the relays before replacing the ignition switch. relays aren't anything special, and can be picked up at any Automotive store. Well, except the relay for the Fuel system... If it is the ignition switch you don't have to rekey the whole car. Word of Caution. The V12's are more prone to catch fire because of ignition and leaky injectors than it's 6 cyl brethren. Mainly because the spark source, the distributor, is smack dab in the middle between the fuel rail and injectors. fuel smell in the engine compartment is something that should also be addressed. My buddy's XJ-SC burned to the ground for this exact reason. the fuel rail and injecters were replaced and the mechanic didn't check the hoses from the fuel rail to the injectors for leaks. 😣 If you're new to Jaguars and especially V12's this is something to keep in mind while under the bonnet. Smell fuel? track the source. Anyway, Hope this helps.
@@JagMods Thank you so much for your time to provide me with so much detailed information and suggestions. Yes, I am new with Jags even though I have owned this XJS V12 for 9 years (a gift from my friend) but I didn't do much except changed some hoses by myself, I usually sent it to the repair shop whenever I had trouble. Since we don't have good mechanics to repair Jags nearby, most of the time they gave up and just suggested getting rid of it. But I love this car, I haven't seen another same one in the street (I live in California) so far in 20 years, I plan to keep it. I will try to do something based on what you mentioned, hope the problem can be fixed. I do appreciate that you also gave me the word of caution, such as the leaky injectors causing fire, that is very important to know. Once again, thank you so much!
@@brucezg pick up a manual. the abridged version of the 6 volume set can be had on amazon. Hard bound. Personally I don't find it very helpful. Essentially has a really good grasp of the obvious. That being said, pick up the electronic version of the manual It has the complete set plus training material not found in manuals. It's available at what was formally XK Unlimited, not Moss motors. Here's the link. mossmotors.com/original-technical-publications-xjs Another options is OTPubs.com. It's the same manual set. It pains me to even mention this company. I find their business practices unethical & support sucks beyond words. ANYWAY... Get the manual. even if it's from OTPUBS.com In the back of your owners manual there should be a folded up wiring diagram... Also... thank you for subscribing to Jag Mods, thank you for taking the time to comment too. I truly appreciate it. Sincerely, Mark @jagmods
I have an 88 XJ-S too. I've owned it for 22 years. before I started this channel, I too paid out the a$$ for supposed specialists to service my XJ-S. about 6 years ago, the local Jaguar dealership refused to work on it because, well, they didn't know how. Go figure... So back in the day when I was pedelling auto parts for National whole sale warehouse, I remembered a Jaguar / Ferrari specialist not so nearby. I looked them up. Long story short, I left the "Specialist" just shy of $10k lighter, new suspension & brakes, tune up, hoses all replaced... I was chuffed until I got almost home only to discover the car was about to over heat (in the dead of winter). the rack was started swaying side to side; and the fuel tank sprung a leak... it was clear the overheating issue was because of the wrench that went through the radiator, and the nuts were finger tight on the steering rack. OH... and the hand brake didn't work. and the output shaft seals leaked all over my new brakes. Would they cover any of this? short answer. No... So I decided to start this channel for all of the Jaguar owners out there who are taking it in the A$$ from "specialists" and pick up a wrench and FIX YOUR JAG! Rant over. :)
@@JagMods WOW, that was an oweful experience, thanks for sharing the story, now you are the specialist, you are helping the Jag lovers. That encourages me to learn more about it and try to fix if possible. I love to watch your video, not only technical but very entertaining, fun to watch and learn. Thank you!
Great video. Fighting a non starting 86 XJ6 right now, no fuel (bad fuel pump hopefully) but also wont start with carb cleaner sprayed into the throttle body- i SEE spark when pulling a plug out, but wondering if the ignition system could just be weak? I'll be compression testing shortly but it sounds healthy. Would love any thoughts, im new to the chasing of the tail old british cars seem to induce.
I'm going to assume your Jaguar is a Series 3 or late model Series 2 XJ6. None of what I just typed applies to the newer AJ6 engine. No fuel? It may not be the fuel pump. Here's how to check it The fuel pump only runs when the engine is being turned over. To trick the system and get the fuel pump pumping. Hold the mass air flow sensor, the big flappy thing between the the air cleaner, and throttle body I used the handle of a really big screw driver Something big so It doesn't get sucked inside the engine. A mates fingers work well. Me? I don't have any mates. Put the gear lever in reverse, and turn the key to the on position DON'T CRANK IT OVER. You should hear the fuel pump whirring away. Jag's have a circular aka open fuel injection system, meaning any unused fuel is returned to the tank. The pump should be pushing about 36psi This can be tested by disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel rail. Be careful not disturb any of the hoses to the injectors or the injectors themselves. Looking at either one of these cross, will cause them to leak. I'm also assuming the ignition timing is close to spot on. The rotor is points at #6 (closest to the radiator) or #1 (closest to the bulkhead) plug wire at (8 degrees) before top dead center or at least really close. the XK 6's are typically timed from the #6 plug. but who knows. I'm going to assume that the ignition hasn't been modified (like mine) Checking the ballast resistor (it's the ceramic block with two leads one on either end. One goes to the ignition relay on the bulkhead, and the other goes to the + side of the coil, and the 3rd goes to the ignition amplifier. Disconnect the plug that goes to the ignition amplifier, turn the key to the on position, Check the voltage on all connections, all should read battery voltage. Checking with a voltage meter + lead touches the ballast, and negative (-) lead to ground, or the negative terminal on the battery. if any of the connections are read zero voltage, then the ballast is dead. checking the Coil Reconnect the all ballast connections, except the connection to the amplifier. Connect the voltage meter + lead to the + on the coil, and ground meter lead to the ground at the battery. The voltage should read between 4-6 volts. No voltage or voltage less than 4 volts indicates the would indicate the wire from the ballast to the coil is damaged or broken. Full battery voltage indicates there's a break in the primary circuit meaning; there's an issue with either the coil or the ignition amplifier. checking the primary coil winding, disconnect the leads at the - (minus) side of the coil, connect the + lead on the voltage meter to the - terminal on the coil, ground the - lead of the voltage meter you should have full battery voltage. A zero reading indicates a cooked primary winding. replace the coil reconnect the leads to the coil, you should have around 2 volts if everything is working as it should. Full battery voltage indicates a faulty amplifier or bad ground. Voltage reading more than 2 volts but less than full battery voltage indicates high resistance in the amplifier or the wiring to and from the amplifier or bad ground. Checking the coil secondary winding with a voltage meter Disconnect the HT lead from the center of the coil, hold the + lead of the voltage meter inside the coil (I wear rubber or heavy leather gloves when I do this) then the negative lead about 1/4 of an inch away from a good ground source. crank the engine over. The voltage reading should fluctuate between 3-4 volts and a regular spark should appear. If the voltage is correct, and no spark then the secondary winding of the coil is cooked. - Replace the coil If the voltage remain low - less than 3 volts then the amplifier should be replaced. It's a good idea (though I didn't do it) to replace the pick up in the distributor at the same time. Hope this helps. Keep me posted how you get on. please. There are other factors the 3 relays on the bulkhead & cam chain tension issue that can cause the same issue.
You're an absolute legend for this! For fuel, when disconnecting the starter trigger from the starter relay, I hear the pump turn on and gurgle, but generates no fuel pressure at the rail or immediately after. I'll give these other tests a go and hopefully report back with some good news, thanks again!
@@TylerRogersUSA thank you for the kind words. tell everyone you know about Jag Mods :) Fuel trickle - check the fuel filter. It's in the boot next to the spare tire under the floor (panel) It's a great big coffee can looking thing. - if the car's been sitting for any length of time, chances are the filter is plugged. Also while it's off blow out the fuel line. Make sure it's disconnected from the fuel rail. Check the the tank switch solenoid is functioning properly. You should hear a clunk when it swaps tanks. Oh, you also might try each tank for fuel pressure - it's very possible crap in the tank could be blocking the flow of fuel prior to the pump. Sometimes giving the back of the car a good bounce to splash the fuel around can dislodge something clogging the inlet. It's a long shot, I know. It's kinda like pounding on the fuel tank with a dead blow hammer on Chev pick ups to get the fuel pump to start up. This does actually work. Draining the tank Under each tanks, there's a hole with a plastic plug (maybe) most of them have are long gone. Anyway, there's beyond the hole is a plug to the bottom of the tank. This is where you drain the fuel out of the tank. Be sure to open the fuel filler cap. Fuel Pump access panel In the rear wheel arch - behind the rear tire, there's a round plate with 4 fasteners. and a couple of wires coming out of it. This is where the fuel pump lives. take care loosening the fasteners. More often than not they snap off. That my friend will turn into a really bad day. Other related and not commonly thought of Sometimes the vapor canister in front of the left front tire gets plugged up. A tell tale sign of this is when you open the fuel cap, there's a sucking sound. This can be a bad thing. on rare occasions (very rare) the seal on the filler cap is so good that the drop in fuel can collapse a fuel tank. Though, I don't think you're at that point yet. Do keep me posted on your progress Cheers! Mark
@@JagMods Good to see I'm on the right track! Before cranking I replaced the fuel filter and blew out the lines, as well as drained both tanks. However I did not check the lines from tank to the pump. Solenoid is working spot on. As for the hissing tanks- I caught onto that and simply bypassed the charcoal canister valve. Ill give the bounce a shot- see if something is lodged in there while im waiting for my new pump. Thanks again Mark! All the best, Tyler
Compression should be somewhere between 155 and 145 psi ; and 135 at the low end. The next bit, I'm throwing out there, just because my '86 XJ6 had this issue. I got the ignition and the fuel all with in spec - it wouldn't start, then out of the blue it would fire right up and run great. Hopped in took it for a spin. Came up to the stop sign at the end of the street and it died. This happened several times. Sometimes I could get it to start at the stop sign but more often than not, I'd have to walk home and get the trailer and drag it back home. Got it fired back up, gave it a rev or two, then heard timing chain back-lash. Hmmm... Popped the cam covers off Exhaust came chain was perfect, the intake had about 1/4" of slop. tensioner guides did have wear which looked about normal for an XK with 139k on the clock and a floppy timing chain. Adjusted the timing chain picked up the slop; and it fired right up. I'm not saying that this is where you're at, but it's something to keep tucked away. Thank you for the update Mark
Short version yes. Moving the coil away from the top of the engine, and mounting vertical like it should be will certainly lengthen the life of the coil, and moving the ignition module off the fron of the plentum is also a good idea. The bolt holes go all the way through so that’s a intake leak that would need to be addressed as well.
There’s a couple of places the most prevalent is the online version which is available from the major jaguar parts suppliers online like Mossmotors.com, SNG Barratt and Jaguar Heritage Trust, Or rather obscure resellers like otspubs.com & Book4cars.com. All of the above offer the exact same electronic product. The XKE or EType manuals are microfiche copies of the original manuals. The plus side is these also include (well at least for the XJ’s) service bulletins and dealer training material which is very useful. My experience with otspubs has been less than stellar. There tech support is probably the worst ever!! I kid you not! They don’t answer the phone and take days or in my case weeks to respond to an email. Then when they do the response doesn’t always resolve the question, but prompts for more information or questions. It took months for me to get a support ticket resolved. It really sucked, and not in a good way! So why did I purchase from OTSPUBS? At the time I purchased my XJ manuals (both online and in a flash drive) they were the only game in town. I’ve have many dealings with SNG Barratt and my experience has dealing with them has been excellent. If price is an issue, then otspubs is the least expensive of the bunch. Oh one more thing. These products all require a special viewer called locklizard which is a viewer for their proprietary encrypted pdf manual / files. It can be installed on only one computer. So be very mindful how you want to view it and where. Additional locklizard licenses are available. If memory serves me, it’s like purchasing another online manual. Once you get over 3 manuals, it’s cheaper to purchase the entire Jaguar model set, which as I understand it, and don’t hold me to it, the viewer can then be installed on multiple computers. Oh, the licensing is based upon email address so a possible way round the single computer license is to purchase each manual under a different email address - and don’t let otspub know that’s what your doing or they will combine the additional manual licenses under one email address, thus voiding the ability to install the software on multiple computers. Come time to replace a computer, you will have to get a new viewer license. My advice contact them before you need it and you have your new computer set up and ready to go. The viewer doesn’t work on a tablet either. You’ll have to Contact Support requesting a new license for a new computer. The old license will then be deactivated. Paper manual? Try books4cars.com. They are located in Seattle Wa USA. Otherwise eBay, jag-lovers forum, or National jaguar club want ads. I have a paper manual for my series 1 2 and 3 XJ saloons and one for the XJS’s. The XJS and the series 3 saloon manual is an abridged version of the Jaguar service manual and personally I think it’s worthless. For example replacing an alternator instructions were something like loosen & remove the fasteners, slacken the belt, remove it, replace with new, then reverse the uninstall process. Myimmediate thought was thank you for that captain obvious! What missing is where the fasteners were located, how many, and the critical bits of info like removing the radiator hose protection plate, loosen the transmission cooler, and unbolting the sway bar sway in order to wiggle the alternator out between the crossmember and the radiator. Thank you for watching my videos I really appreciate it!
Check the specs on your coil, but that seems a bit high. It’s been my experience where primary winding resistance should be between 1.5 to 3.0 ohms and the secondary winding between 10 to 14 k ohms.
Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you enjoyed it. The HEI module is a MSD 5596, This is a multi-spark module I'd recommend upgrading the coil as well the coil I've got is the MSD Blaster 2 Part # 8202. The ACDELCO part nubmers are D1906 (OEM #10482820, 19180771). The condensor is what I had kicking around. I believe it was from my XJ6 Series II which would be Jag Part number JLM9656
@@JagMods Wow I wasn't expecting a response that quick ! I have just purchased an Arrow Spyder restoration project with a 4.2 Jag Engine and despite the fact that I have had it running today for about 1 minute it will now only turn over and not fire up - This will possibly help when I get that far - I am waiting for a spark tester before I start taking things apart Many Thanks
@@1960livvy I’m not sure what country your located in but the spark tester that I used in the video is a worth it’s weight in gold. And it cheap especially at harbor freight in the USA. I keep one in all my Jags. Is the XK6 in your project, fuel injected or carburetorated? I had a vet same issue with one of my series 3 XJ6’s. Once I got the ignition sorted, I took it out fir a spin and got 3 blocks from the house and it quit. Again. Short version, the timing chain on the intake side had a about a half of an inch of slack. Which equates to unwanted variable valve timing. Once I got that sorted. The car run great! The suspension is clapped out, but runs really good 🤪
@@JagMods I'm in Oxford England :-) The Spark Tester that was ordered appears to have been lost in the post so the company is sending another one to me Having looked again today I still have plenty of sparks and the inside of the Ignition Amplifier looks perfect so looking elsewhere I think its down to the ECU / Fuel Pump and their relay Fingers crossed when the new relay arrives Again Many Thanks
Check the fuel pressure should be around 36psi no less. Listen to the injectors. You should here the injectors click a way. My experience with injectors. NOIDS area very useful tool, but if you so much as look at an jag injector the wrong way they tend to leak. So be prepared to purchase new o-rings if you fiddle with the injectors. This isn’t a hard and fast rule by any stretch of the imagination, but has been my experience.
Hey buddy, what makes the car (83 jaguar xj6) to go only at 30mph speed? Water on fuel, stale fuel, spark plugs, clogged fuel filter, etc? Any advice will be appreciated.
Also if uts been s in sitting with ethanol laced fuel the ethnol will create a jell and prohibit proper fuel flow. Id recommend cleaning up the fuel delivery, check the fuel pumps to ensure proper pressure. Is it fuel injected or carburetors?
@@JagMods it must of been sitting for awhile, it starts up after a second or third try, but when driving it it just goes to 30mph, no power at all. It's also a fuel injected model. I have bought alot of things, but yet to install them, fuel filter, fuel pump, drain the gas tanks, vacuum hoses, radiator hoses, new fuel injectors, undecided what spark plugs to use, ignition coil, cap and rotor, spark wires, clean mass air flow, throttle body cleaning, and new amplifier ab 14 box, change or drain transmission fluid and add the 4qts of type f, etc. All these will going to do during my labor day week off. Hopefully it will improve performance. Will let you know once done. Thank you for your advice.
Sorry I missed this comment. I try to address all of them as they come in. Sorry... How are you getting on with your Jaguar? to Answer your question, All of the above, plus, the thing is all of the items above would also cause a really poor / rough idle. except a clogged fuel filter. Other items, could be a fuel pump is tired you should get 36psi on the fuel rail (hose to...) No advance issues with the distributor not advancing, I've also seen cams out of sync / time (different than ignition timing) The culprit us is the cam chain is loose or the tensioner guides are severely warn. all but the worn guides are easy fixes. Let me know how you're getting on with your Jaguar Sincerely, mark @jagmods
The short version is I’m a cheap and lazy bastard. It’s a lot cheaper and a hell of a lot easier to fix the existing than to retro fit a full on electronic ignition with positioning sensors, integrating control boxes, and coil packs.
Shmoo! Sounds like you watch AvE? Soldier and shrink wrap wires. Simple harness to remake. Electrolytic capacitors all leak in time, usually 20-30 years. Even on your stereo power supply. Lol.you need a proper wire stripper. Bozo’in it with scissors. More lol.I’m not a fan of crimping or warm beer. I use copper graf on all bolts. Love it.
Use to watch Ave, not so much anymore. The electricians scissors? Ive used them for decades for cutting and stripping wire. Im glad you enjoy the videos, and thank you for taking the time to comment
Hi there. Thnx for showing this. I've like all Jag XJ6 owners am battling this issue right now. I thought it would be just wiring, but perhaps it is that Lucas box and cables. Wondering where to buy the capacitor and the heat sync ? Basically, I have spark between cables, but it looses spark, so car won't get fuel. If you could comment on where you got the parts would appreciate it. Cheers. Nice light approach btw... I like it.
The Jaguar ignition module found in a couple of places. If you want the Original Equipment replacement Jaguar Part number DAC2087. The whole unit can be found at SNGBarratt search for the Jaguar Part number above. a Non Jaguar quality replacement can be found at Rock Auto too . www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jaguar,1985,xj6,4.2l+l6,1178096,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172 - I'd probably go with the Standard Motor Products brand is a decent substitute for 3rd party replacement parts Just the internal bits? The OE ignition amplifier is just a HEI unit on any late 70's -80's GM / Chev V8 HEI ignition. The condensor? I had kicking around from the trials and tribulations of erratic spark on the Series II XJ6. The Jaguar part number is JLM9656. Any ignition condensor will work, as long as the pigtail isn't too short - too long can be cut and a new end put on, oh and the mount has to be in the right place too. Generic Auto part store ignition condensor will work too - These usually have a bracket that tack welded onto condensor. The amplifier unit in the video is an MSD unit - you'll want to use the MSD Coil too ditching the stock ballast with the stock coil. If you use the stock coil, then go with a stock GM ignition amplifier. The MSD amplifier will cook the coil over time. The MSD Part number is a 5596 and the coil is MSD 8202 Blaster 2 coil. Both of these parts can be found on Amazon or your local Autoparts store (special order) / speed shop. The MSD coils have a larger diameter, so stock coil mount won't quite fit around the coil. I made a new bracket out of a piece of aluminum flat bar. Tools I used are very basic tools. A vise, hack saw, drill, hammer, a metal file, and a piece PVC pipe to bend the aluminum around (don't use the coil as a form it will dent it), masking tape to make a template of the old coil for basic dimensions, then add the additional amount required for the bigger cable by determining the difference in diameter between the stock coil, and the MSD coil. I hope this answers your question, and please post how you're getting on. I do read and reply to every comment. Cheers! @jagmods
@@JagMods Hey, thanks for such a thorough reply. Thank You, I am rebuilding that module, seems my capacitor is working and the other black relay I think it is, just wiring rusted etc.. thanks again, I hope it starts up any day now just like yours did :)
@@JagMods I cleaned up the ignition module, no start. :( tried changing relay, no start, still no signal to fuel pump.. as in power, but to be honest, I'm not sure how to check it... it was making that static sound, now no sound... I changed the cable, I even cleaned up all inside ignition module, capacitor built up ohms to 19 and fell... so that's working etc... nxt thing I was even thinking to make a claim w insurance to investigate this thoroughly and see this is fixed for good. ? any thoughts on how that might go ?
Check in the comments on this video below, specifically Tyler Rogers. He had a similar issue. Let me know if that doesn't help. Has the car ever ran? is it new to you? in a no start / run condition? I'm assuming you've checked the compression and the condition of the spark plugs. 1. Have you checked for spark? I believe in the Video, I had my handy dandy spark light that I put between the plug and the plug wire. this can also be accomplished by pulling a spark plug, then grounding the electrode on the engine. this is best done in a dark area so you can see if there's a spark or not. This can also be accomplished by pulling a plug wire, and leaving a gap between the plug wire and the distributor cap, or the plug. If there's spark when the engine is turned over, then you'll hear it, and may even see it. The handy dandy spark checker is worth it's weight in gold. I got mine from the local automotive store, or on amazon. That being said, are you sure you don't have any spark?. The next tool that you'll need is a multi-tester for checking voltage. 2. What is the condition of the battery. Resting it should have somewhere between 12.0 - 12.75V. if the battery is any less than 11.5V resting - the car won't start. 3. Measure the voltage across both poles on the coil. it should read about the same as the battery maybe 1 or 1.5 volts less (If you've got a ballast resister in place). 4. check the voltage between the battery + to the negative on the coil. you should get full battery voltage. 5. do the same but in reverse battery - and coil + should be the same - full battery voltage 6. Voltage out of the coil. should be about the same as the battery maybe 1.5V less if there's a ballast Resister in the mix. Get back to me, with answers to the above questions, and I'll point you in the next logical direction. 7. Is there any side to side movement in the distributor? if the bushes are worn, this will also play a havoc on trying to start. A less obvious issue, is on my '86 XJ6 (grey one) had a very similar issue. but was quite baffling. I had spark, I had fuel pressure, the injectors are firing, but it still wouldn't start. The issue was the cam chain on the intake side was too sloppy and the cam was out of time with the pistons & the ignition. The distributor is driven from the crankshaft. so if the valve timing is off it won't start either. Well Consistently. On a rare occasions the engine would fire right up and run great - then go for a drive get just far enough that getting home was a hike, come up to a stop after deacceleration, and the engine would quit and not start again. The deacceleration is what tipped me off about the cam timing being the next place to check. This does require two special tools available at SNGBarratt Anyway, get back to me with a bit more info and I'll point you in the next logical direction. Good luck mate!
That is great news! Thank you so much for sharing your success. That is awesome. I love to read the info supplied actually works on somebody else’s Jag.
@@JagMods yeah Im going to replace fuel pump and filter next it seems to be the original and over working it's self but other then that these are pretty great cars Thanx.
WOW! Ive never seen anyone address this issue concerning poor spark. Hell, xj6's at 35 plus yrs old would have corroded(green) wiring there and cracked covering. You broke it down very well and as hard as times are right now you kept everything "real" and light-hearted. I'm really tired of people talking SO SERIOUS and lying at the same time, at LEAST humor us. good job. Tell me advertising doesn't pay, after watching that very, very informative video I decided to gaze at your 2 recommended sites to purchase parts. Now, I was already aware of these sites, but with the myriad of parts sites for XJ6's, I totally forgot about them and had purchased numerous parts from other vendors at almost twice the cost. Now they're back at the top of the list.
Thank you for the kind words. Good to know you saved a couple of bucks. I don't get any kick backs from any vendors I recommend. I'm in the process (or at least thinking about it) putting a web storefront up for the weird stuff I use, tools I make that aren't available anymore. Thant kinda stuff.
Crusty wires. I always cringe when I have to disturb any wiring. My '74 Series 2 XJ6 is the worst! It has crustiest oil soaked wiring I've the ill pleasure to deal with.
Thank you for taking the time to comment It really means a lot to me.
Sincerely,
Mark
The best I've seen yet - Great narration. After working on Mercedes and Triumph I wonder how the Brits ever won the war.
Working on Mercedes, BMW and Audi as I have makes me wonder where they get their build quality reputation from especially todays cars. Mercedes from the same era as the XJ6 can corrode in a spectacular way and hide it well.
Dude you are great! Not some bs talking for 25 minutes before you actually do something, won’t say any names here (living with a classic) but anyway you are a great help! I’ve got a 84 xj6 and I might need this. Thanks again!
Thank you for the kind words. I’m glad you enjoyed them and found these useful
Honestly best video ever. Wish I found this before new plugs, wires, coil and distributor lol
Hello mate, I'm your latest subscriber. I'v got a couple of series 3's. They're not running at present, but I get injoyment just looking at them. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. See you soon.
Thanks for the sub! Keep us up to date on your progress :)
Thanks for a great video.
I'm a new subscriber and I own a 1982 Jaguar XJ6 series3.
Thanks for filming and sharing these great tips on how to fix these great Jaguars.
You are very welcome. These are beautiful cars and deserve a second chance.
All of my XJ saloons were destined to be crushed. I couldn’t bear the thought so I bought them. None of them run when I bought them, so with a little TLC their back on the road.
@@JagMods,... that's AWESOME that you saved them.
I truly agree that these Jaguars deserve a second chance and a third to be on the road again.
Hi! Love your content.
I had a quick question regarding the same topic. My car randomly wouldn’t start one day after trying to get some groceries, I diagnosed it was a failed distributor rotor, I had also changed the ignition module and condenser, module being a Bosch, condenser being off an older model jag as they don’t stock the exact part in my country. Anyways the car started right up afterwards it ran for 20 or so minutes and stalled and wouldn’t start again. I switched back to the old module it started for a second and stalled again. I’m
Kind of lost now as where to go from here.
Any help or advice would be much appreciated!!
Thank you for the kind words. Check the comments on this video. I think it's about 5 months ago. I responded to a viewer called Chronicals of Redek. my reply is a good place to start. Keep me posted on your progress, and I will be happy to answer any questions
If you're breaking rotors, then one of three things are going on.
A. The rotor isn't positioned properly on the top of the shaft. or is the wrong rotor. Also keep in mind if you're breaking rotors, then the cap will be collateral damage. replace them both.
B. The cap isn't on correctly. sadly you can put it on wrong, The cap is keyed with the distributor so hunt around and make sure it's on solid. even without being screwed in, the cap should seat firmly.
C. the distributor is worn. the center shaft isn't rotaing on its access but more in an oval than on it's axis.
Other things that will cause your symptoms.
1. fuel pump
2. bad coil and or ballast
3. Coil not properly gournded. I've run into this with my Grey XJ6. I got lazy and didn't make a new coil holder for the MSD coil I added. I just bent up the original so it was a snug fit, until I picked up a aluminum flat par. anyway, the coil would rotate about 10 degrees, then the car would quit. It that wouldn't make a man bald, I don't know what would!!!
4. cooked or broken ignition wires. carefully disconnect the wires and check with an ohm meter. there should be little to no resistance. high resistance would indicate a corrodid or cooked wire. Broken wires are also something to look for. Broken wires sometimes can be identified by touching the insolation while the wire is energized. if the wire feels warm or hot to the touch, then it needs to be replaced.
5. less obvious - cam chain tensioner worn. popping off the cam covers and check the cam chain for slack. There should be absolutely no slack. How many miles on your Jag? I experienced this with my '86 XJ6 it always quit when coming to a stop. Aka deacceleration. The deacceleration would put just enough backward thrust on the timing chain to cause it to be out of alignment. then cranking it over and stoping on just the right cam positoin would pull up the slack, and the engine would fire right up. another head scratcher. too up the slack and the car has never ran better.
thank you again for the kind words, and thank you for watching my video. please reach out and I'll be happy to answer any question.
Sincerely
@jagmods
The best why I added enhanced spark to my '68 XKE was to get rid of the D-22 dizzy & install an EDIS ignition system with XJ-40 6 tower coil. Open the gap on the spark plugs to .050 & life has been great since.
Well that is clever! Good to know. I wondered how well that woks work, using newer Jag components on the XK6
@@JagMods I've had my set up for 9 years. Once you use a laptop to establish advance/retard then nothing to do except change plugs whenever. Once done...it's done.
I have come to the Jaguar party late. Buying XJ6 ‘s like I used to buy MGB’s $500 per. Very satisfying
Welcome to the party! Get the suspension right on a pre Ford era XJ and the car is a delight to drive. Enjoy your XJ6!
That’s a fine video for the very reason Anthony Marshall articulated. You have a new sub.👍🏻
Thank you for subscribing!! and thank you the kind words! I try... I currently editing my next video! Hopefully it will be out soon!
Very good video with detailed information. I have a 1988 Jaguar XJS V12, every time when I start the car, I have to turn the ignition key multi-times to be able to start the car, there is no cranking sound if it doesn't work, if it works, the engine starts without a problem. I consulted the car mechanic, was told it might be a bad ignition switch. When the car engine is idling, I can occasionally hear a tiny electric spark sound from somewhere near the ignition coil on top, but not able to pinpoint the exact location. Any idea what might be the problem?
My first thought was the neutral safety switch may be the issue. Taking it in and out of gear while the key is in the secondary position aka the run position (not start). then attempt to start it. My green XJ6 is that way. I've added it to my list. :)
The neutral safety switch is located under the console. It's nothing more than a micro-switch that opens the circuit when the gear leaver is in park. that being said, if the spark sound IS related to the no crank issue; and it's near the coil. then check the coil for loose wires.
The ignition switch closes the circuit to the ignition and tells the coil and other down stream bits to wake up, which intern tells the fuel injection module (in the boot) to wake up. Another relay is triggered when the key is flipped to the 3rd position (aka Start). Sending power to the starter, and telling the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system. I would look at the relays before replacing the ignition switch. relays aren't anything special, and can be picked up at any Automotive store. Well, except the relay for the Fuel system...
If it is the ignition switch you don't have to rekey the whole car.
Word of Caution.
The V12's are more prone to catch fire because of ignition and leaky injectors than it's 6 cyl brethren. Mainly because the spark source, the distributor, is smack dab in the middle between the fuel rail and injectors. fuel smell in the engine compartment is something that should also be addressed. My buddy's XJ-SC burned to the ground for this exact reason. the fuel rail and injecters were replaced and the mechanic didn't check the hoses from the fuel rail to the injectors for leaks. 😣 If you're new to Jaguars and especially V12's this is something to keep in mind while under the bonnet. Smell fuel? track the source. Anyway, Hope this helps.
@@JagMods
Thank you so much for your time to provide me with so much detailed information and suggestions. Yes, I am new with Jags even though I have owned this XJS V12 for 9 years (a gift from my friend) but I didn't do much except changed some hoses by myself, I usually sent it to the repair shop whenever I had trouble. Since we don't have good mechanics to repair Jags nearby, most of the time they gave up and just suggested getting rid of it. But I love this car, I haven't seen another same one in the street (I live in California) so far in 20 years, I plan to keep it.
I will try to do something based on what you mentioned, hope the problem can be fixed. I do appreciate that you also gave me the word of caution, such as the leaky injectors causing fire, that is very important to know. Once again, thank you so much!
@@brucezg
pick up a manual. the abridged version of the 6 volume set can be had on amazon. Hard bound. Personally I don't find it very helpful. Essentially has a really good grasp of the obvious.
That being said, pick up the electronic version of the manual It has the complete set plus training material not found in manuals. It's available at what was formally XK Unlimited, not Moss motors. Here's the link.
mossmotors.com/original-technical-publications-xjs
Another options is OTPubs.com. It's the same manual set. It pains me to even mention this company. I find their business practices unethical & support sucks beyond words. ANYWAY... Get the manual. even if it's from OTPUBS.com
In the back of your owners manual there should be a folded up wiring diagram... Also...
thank you for subscribing to Jag Mods, thank you for taking the time to comment too. I truly appreciate it.
Sincerely,
Mark @jagmods
I have an 88 XJ-S too. I've owned it for 22 years. before I started this channel, I too paid out the a$$ for supposed specialists to service my XJ-S. about 6 years ago, the local Jaguar dealership refused to work on it because, well, they didn't know how. Go figure...
So back in the day when I was pedelling auto parts for National whole sale warehouse, I remembered a Jaguar / Ferrari specialist not so nearby. I looked them up. Long story short, I left the "Specialist" just shy of $10k lighter, new suspension & brakes, tune up, hoses all replaced... I was chuffed until I got almost home only to discover the car was about to over heat (in the dead of winter). the rack was started swaying side to side; and the fuel tank sprung a leak... it was clear the overheating issue was because of the wrench that went through the radiator, and the nuts were finger tight on the steering rack. OH... and the hand brake didn't work. and the output shaft seals leaked all over my new brakes. Would they cover any of this? short answer. No...
So I decided to start this channel for all of the Jaguar owners out there who are taking it in the A$$ from "specialists" and pick up a wrench and FIX YOUR JAG!
Rant over.
:)
@@JagMods WOW, that was an oweful experience, thanks for sharing the story, now you are the specialist, you are helping the Jag lovers. That encourages me to learn more about it and try to fix if possible. I love to watch your video, not only technical but very entertaining, fun to watch and learn. Thank you!
very good once again! keep these video's coming, very useful :-D
Thank you for your kind words. I'm glad you'll find the info useful. Share my channel with your Jag Friends.
Great video. Fighting a non starting 86 XJ6 right now, no fuel (bad fuel pump hopefully) but also wont start with carb cleaner sprayed into the throttle body- i SEE spark when pulling a plug out, but wondering if the ignition system could just be weak? I'll be compression testing shortly but it sounds healthy.
Would love any thoughts, im new to the chasing of the tail old british cars seem to induce.
I'm going to assume your Jaguar is a Series 3 or late model Series 2 XJ6. None of what I just typed applies to the newer AJ6 engine.
No fuel? It may not be the fuel pump. Here's how to check it
The fuel pump only runs when the engine is being turned over. To trick the system and get the fuel pump pumping. Hold the mass air flow sensor, the big flappy thing between the the air cleaner, and throttle body I used the handle of a really big screw driver Something big so It doesn't get sucked inside the engine. A mates fingers work well. Me? I don't have any mates. Put the gear lever in reverse, and turn the key to the on position DON'T CRANK IT OVER. You should hear the fuel pump whirring away. Jag's have a circular aka open fuel injection system, meaning any unused fuel is returned to the tank. The pump should be pushing about 36psi This can be tested by disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel rail. Be careful not disturb any of the hoses to the injectors or the injectors themselves. Looking at either one of these cross, will cause them to leak.
I'm also assuming the ignition timing is close to spot on. The rotor is points at #6 (closest to the radiator) or #1 (closest to the bulkhead) plug wire at (8 degrees) before top dead center or at least really close. the XK 6's are typically timed from the #6 plug. but who knows.
I'm going to assume that the ignition hasn't been modified (like mine)
Checking the ballast resistor (it's the ceramic block with two leads one on either end. One goes to the ignition relay on the bulkhead, and the other goes to the + side of the coil, and the 3rd goes to the ignition amplifier.
Disconnect the plug that goes to the ignition amplifier, turn the key to the on position, Check the voltage on all connections, all should read battery voltage.
Checking with a voltage meter
+ lead touches the ballast, and negative (-) lead to ground, or the negative terminal on the battery. if any of the connections are read zero voltage, then the ballast is dead.
checking the Coil
Reconnect the all ballast connections, except the connection to the amplifier. Connect the voltage meter + lead to the + on the coil, and ground meter lead to the ground at the battery. The voltage should read between 4-6 volts.
No voltage or voltage less than 4 volts indicates the would indicate the wire from the ballast to the coil is damaged or broken.
Full battery voltage indicates there's a break in the primary circuit meaning; there's an issue with either the coil or the ignition amplifier.
checking the primary coil winding,
disconnect the leads at the - (minus) side of the coil, connect the + lead on the voltage meter to the - terminal on the coil, ground the - lead of the voltage meter you should have full battery voltage. A zero reading indicates a cooked primary winding. replace the coil
reconnect the leads to the coil, you should have around 2 volts if everything is working as it should.
Full battery voltage indicates a faulty amplifier or bad ground. Voltage reading more than 2 volts but less than full battery voltage indicates high resistance in the amplifier or the wiring to and from the amplifier or bad ground.
Checking the coil secondary winding with a voltage meter
Disconnect the HT lead from the center of the coil, hold the + lead of the voltage meter inside the coil (I wear rubber or heavy leather gloves when I do this) then the negative lead about 1/4 of an inch away from a good ground source. crank the engine over. The voltage reading should fluctuate between 3-4 volts and a regular spark should appear.
If the voltage is correct, and no spark then the secondary winding of the coil is cooked. - Replace the coil
If the voltage remain low - less than 3 volts then the amplifier should be replaced. It's a good idea (though I didn't do it) to replace the pick up in the distributor at the same time.
Hope this helps.
Keep me posted how you get on. please.
There are other factors the 3 relays on the bulkhead & cam chain tension issue that can cause the same issue.
You're an absolute legend for this! For fuel, when disconnecting the starter trigger from the starter relay, I hear the pump turn on and gurgle, but generates no fuel pressure at the rail or immediately after. I'll give these other tests a go and hopefully report back with some good news, thanks again!
@@TylerRogersUSA
thank you for the kind words. tell everyone you know about Jag Mods :)
Fuel trickle - check the fuel filter. It's in the boot next to the spare tire under the floor (panel) It's a great big coffee can looking thing. - if the car's been sitting for any length of time, chances are the filter is plugged. Also while it's off blow out the fuel line. Make sure it's disconnected from the fuel rail.
Check the the tank switch solenoid is functioning properly. You should hear a clunk when it swaps tanks. Oh, you also might try each tank for fuel pressure - it's very possible crap in the tank could be blocking the flow of fuel prior to the pump. Sometimes giving the back of the car a good bounce to splash the fuel around can dislodge something clogging the inlet. It's a long shot, I know. It's kinda like pounding on the fuel tank with a dead blow hammer on Chev pick ups to get the fuel pump to start up. This does actually work.
Draining the tank
Under each tanks, there's a hole with a plastic plug (maybe) most of them have are long gone. Anyway, there's beyond the hole is a plug to the bottom of the tank. This is where you drain the fuel out of the tank. Be sure to open the fuel filler cap.
Fuel Pump access panel
In the rear wheel arch - behind the rear tire, there's a round plate with 4 fasteners. and a couple of wires coming out of it. This is where the fuel pump lives. take care loosening the fasteners. More often than not they snap off. That my friend will turn into a really bad day.
Other related and not commonly thought of
Sometimes the vapor canister in front of the left front tire gets plugged up. A tell tale sign of this is when you open the fuel cap, there's a sucking sound. This can be a bad thing. on rare occasions (very rare) the seal on the filler cap is so good that the drop in fuel can collapse a fuel tank. Though, I don't think you're at that point yet.
Do keep me posted on your progress
Cheers!
Mark
@@JagMods Good to see I'm on the right track! Before cranking I replaced the fuel filter and blew out the lines, as well as drained both tanks. However I did not check the lines from tank to the pump. Solenoid is working spot on. As for the hissing tanks- I caught onto that and simply bypassed the charcoal canister valve.
Ill give the bounce a shot- see if something is lodged in there while im waiting for my new pump. Thanks again Mark!
All the best,
Tyler
Compression should be somewhere between 155 and 145 psi ; and 135 at the low end. The next bit, I'm throwing out there, just because my '86 XJ6 had this issue. I got the ignition and the fuel all with in spec - it wouldn't start, then out of the blue it would fire right up and run great. Hopped in took it for a spin. Came up to the stop sign at the end of the street and it died. This happened several times. Sometimes I could get it to start at the stop sign but more often than not, I'd have to walk home and get the trailer and drag it back home.
Got it fired back up, gave it a rev or two, then heard timing chain back-lash. Hmmm...
Popped the cam covers off Exhaust came chain was perfect, the intake had about 1/4" of slop. tensioner guides did have wear which looked about normal for an XK with 139k on the clock and a floppy timing chain. Adjusted the timing chain picked up the slop; and it fired right up.
I'm not saying that this is where you're at, but it's something to keep tucked away.
Thank you for the update
Mark
Curious; would mounting the ignitor away from heat be a good mod?
Short version yes. Moving the coil away from the top of the engine, and mounting vertical like it should be will certainly lengthen the life of the coil, and moving the ignition module off the fron of the plentum is also a good idea. The bolt holes go all the way through so that’s a intake leak that would need to be addressed as well.
Jag Mods Very cool of you to reply, thanks! About the holes going all the way through, good to know.
Also the wiring to the coil would be a redo because there isnt any slack what so ever
And vibration
I have an 1986 Jag XJ6 thats in pretty good shape I would love to get it running again
Keep us up to date on your progress. Reach out if I can help
where should I get a service manual for my 74 xke?
There’s a couple of places the most prevalent is the online version which is available from the major jaguar parts suppliers online like
Mossmotors.com, SNG Barratt and Jaguar Heritage Trust, Or rather obscure resellers like otspubs.com & Book4cars.com. All of the above offer the exact same electronic product. The XKE or EType manuals are microfiche copies of the original manuals. The plus side is these also include (well at least for the XJ’s) service bulletins and dealer training material which is very useful.
My experience with otspubs has been less than stellar. There tech support is probably the worst ever!! I kid you not! They don’t answer the phone and take days or in my case weeks to respond to an email. Then when they do the response doesn’t always resolve the question, but prompts for more information or questions. It took months for me to get a support ticket resolved. It really sucked, and not in a good way!
So why did I purchase from OTSPUBS? At the time I purchased my XJ manuals (both online and in a flash drive) they were the only game in town.
I’ve have many dealings with SNG Barratt and my experience has dealing with them has been excellent. If price is an issue, then otspubs is the least expensive of the bunch.
Oh one more thing. These products all require a special viewer called locklizard which is a viewer for their proprietary encrypted pdf manual / files. It can be installed on only one computer. So be very mindful how you want to view it and where. Additional locklizard licenses are available. If memory serves me, it’s like purchasing another online manual. Once you get over 3 manuals, it’s cheaper to purchase the entire Jaguar model set, which as I understand it, and don’t hold me to it, the viewer can then be installed on multiple computers.
Oh, the licensing is based upon email address so a possible way round the single computer license is to purchase each manual under a different email address - and don’t let otspub know that’s what your doing or they will combine the additional manual licenses under one email address, thus voiding the ability to install the software on multiple computers. Come time to replace a computer, you will have to get a new viewer license. My advice contact them before you need it and you have your new computer set up and ready to go. The viewer doesn’t work on a tablet either. You’ll have to Contact Support requesting a new license for a new computer. The old license will then be deactivated.
Paper manual?
Try books4cars.com. They are located in Seattle Wa USA. Otherwise eBay, jag-lovers forum, or National jaguar club want ads. I have a paper manual for my series 1 2 and 3 XJ saloons and one for the XJS’s. The XJS and the series 3 saloon manual is an abridged version of the Jaguar service manual and personally I think it’s worthless.
For example replacing an alternator instructions were something like loosen & remove the fasteners, slacken the belt, remove it, replace with new, then reverse the uninstall process. Myimmediate thought was thank you for that captain obvious!
What missing is where the fasteners were located, how many, and the critical bits of info like removing the radiator hose protection plate, loosen the transmission cooler, and unbolting the sway bar sway in order to wiggle the alternator out between the crossmember and the radiator.
Thank you for watching my videos I really appreciate it!
What is the value of the capacitor in uF? thanks
I wondered that myself, that information isn’t listed on the box.
Great video thanks for the upload. What year is your jag? My 82 and 86 xj6 both register 60 megohms.
Which one? Haha I have 4 xj6’s. A 72, 74, 85, & 86. Not to mention the XJS’s or the XJR-100. 🙂
Check the specs on your coil, but that seems a bit high. It’s been my experience where primary winding resistance should be between 1.5 to 3.0 ohms and the secondary winding between 10 to 14 k ohms.
Sir how setting d ignition timing on distributor please let's video on this page thanks 😊
There is a video on adjusting the ignition. It’s call XJ6 ignition tune up.
Thank you for commenting and watching my videos.
Sincerely
Mark @jagmods
Great Video - Do you have part numbers for the GM Ignition Module and Condenser ?
Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you enjoyed it. The HEI module is a MSD 5596, This is a multi-spark module I'd recommend upgrading the coil as well the coil I've got is the MSD Blaster 2 Part # 8202. The ACDELCO part nubmers are D1906 (OEM #10482820, 19180771). The condensor is what I had kicking around. I believe it was from my XJ6 Series II which would be Jag Part number JLM9656
@@JagMods Wow I wasn't expecting a response that quick !
I have just purchased an Arrow Spyder restoration project with a 4.2 Jag Engine and despite the fact that I have had it running today for about 1 minute it will now only turn over and not fire up - This will possibly help when I get that far - I am waiting for a spark tester before I start taking things apart
Many Thanks
@@1960livvy
I’m not sure what country your located in but the spark tester that I used in the video is a worth it’s weight in gold. And it cheap especially at harbor freight in the USA. I keep one in all my Jags. Is the XK6 in your project, fuel injected or carburetorated? I had a vet same issue with one of my series 3 XJ6’s. Once I got the ignition sorted, I took it out fir a spin and got 3 blocks from the house and it quit. Again. Short version, the timing chain on the intake side had a about a half of an inch of slack. Which equates to unwanted variable valve timing. Once I got that sorted. The car run great! The suspension is clapped out, but runs really good 🤪
@@JagMods I'm in Oxford England :-)
The Spark Tester that was ordered appears to have been lost in the post so the company is sending another one to me
Having looked again today I still have plenty of sparks and the inside of the Ignition Amplifier looks perfect so looking elsewhere I think its down to the ECU / Fuel Pump and their relay
Fingers crossed when the new relay arrives
Again Many Thanks
Check the fuel pressure should be around 36psi no less. Listen to the injectors. You should here the injectors click a way. My experience with injectors. NOIDS area very useful tool, but if you so much as look at an jag injector the wrong way they tend to leak. So be prepared to purchase new o-rings if you fiddle with the injectors. This isn’t a hard and fast rule by any stretch of the imagination, but has been my experience.
Hey buddy, what makes the car (83 jaguar xj6) to go only at 30mph speed? Water on fuel, stale fuel, spark plugs, clogged fuel filter, etc? Any advice will be appreciated.
All of the above would do it. Does it sputter? Or just not rev?
Also if uts been s in sitting with ethanol laced fuel the ethnol will create a jell and prohibit proper fuel flow. Id recommend cleaning up the fuel delivery, check the fuel pumps to ensure proper pressure. Is it fuel injected or carburetors?
@@JagMods it must of been sitting for awhile, it starts up after a second or third try, but when driving it it just goes to 30mph, no power at all. It's also a fuel injected model. I have bought alot of things, but yet to install them, fuel filter, fuel pump, drain the gas tanks, vacuum hoses, radiator hoses, new fuel injectors, undecided what spark plugs to use, ignition coil, cap and rotor, spark wires, clean mass air flow, throttle body cleaning, and new amplifier ab 14 box, change or drain transmission fluid and add the 4qts of type f, etc. All these will going to do during my labor day week off. Hopefully it will improve performance. Will let you know once done. Thank you for your advice.
Sorry I missed this comment. I try to address all of them as they come in. Sorry... How are you getting on with your Jaguar? to Answer your question, All of the above, plus,
the thing is all of the items above would also cause a really poor / rough idle. except a clogged fuel filter. Other items, could be a fuel pump is tired you should get 36psi on the fuel rail (hose to...) No advance issues with the distributor not advancing, I've also seen cams out of sync / time (different than ignition timing) The culprit us is the cam chain is loose or the tensioner guides are severely warn. all but the worn guides are easy fixes.
Let me know how you're getting on with your Jaguar
Sincerely,
mark @jagmods
Much as I admire your ingenuity, why don't you bin the dizzy n use a coil pack?
The short version is I’m a cheap and lazy bastard. It’s a lot cheaper and a hell of a lot easier to fix the existing than to retro fit a full on electronic ignition with positioning sensors, integrating control boxes, and coil packs.
Shmoo! Sounds like you watch AvE? Soldier and shrink wrap wires. Simple harness to remake. Electrolytic capacitors all leak in time, usually 20-30 years. Even on your stereo power supply. Lol.you need a proper wire stripper. Bozo’in it with scissors. More lol.I’m not a fan of crimping or warm beer. I use copper graf on all bolts. Love it.
Use to watch Ave, not so much anymore. The electricians scissors? Ive used them for decades for cutting and stripping wire.
Im glad you enjoy the videos, and thank you for taking the time to comment
Good video, thanks for the Mr. Rogers music at the end....lol
😆
Hi there. Thnx for showing this. I've like all Jag XJ6 owners am battling this issue right now. I thought it would be just wiring, but perhaps it is that Lucas box and cables. Wondering where to buy the capacitor and the heat sync ? Basically, I have spark between cables, but it looses spark, so car won't get fuel. If you could comment on where you got the parts would appreciate it. Cheers. Nice light approach btw... I like it.
The Jaguar ignition module found in a couple of places. If you want the Original Equipment replacement Jaguar Part number DAC2087. The whole unit can be found at SNGBarratt search for the Jaguar Part number above. a Non Jaguar quality replacement can be found at Rock Auto too .
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jaguar,1985,xj6,4.2l+l6,1178096,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172 - I'd probably go with the Standard Motor Products brand is a decent substitute for 3rd party replacement parts
Just the internal bits? The OE ignition amplifier is just a HEI unit on any late 70's -80's GM / Chev V8 HEI ignition.
The condensor? I had kicking around from the trials and tribulations of erratic spark on the Series II XJ6. The Jaguar part number is JLM9656. Any ignition condensor will work, as long as the pigtail isn't too short - too long can be cut and a new end put on, oh and the mount has to be in the right place too. Generic Auto part store ignition condensor will work too - These usually have a bracket that tack welded onto condensor.
The amplifier unit in the video is an MSD unit - you'll want to use the MSD Coil too ditching the stock ballast with the stock coil. If you use the stock coil, then go with a stock GM ignition amplifier. The MSD amplifier will cook the coil over time.
The MSD Part number is a 5596 and the coil is MSD 8202 Blaster 2 coil. Both of these parts can be found on Amazon or your local Autoparts store (special order) / speed shop.
The MSD coils have a larger diameter, so stock coil mount won't quite fit around the coil. I made a new bracket out of a piece of aluminum flat bar. Tools I used are very basic tools. A vise, hack saw, drill, hammer, a metal file, and a piece PVC pipe to bend the aluminum around (don't use the coil as a form it will dent it), masking tape to make a template of the old coil for basic dimensions, then add the additional amount required for the bigger cable by determining the difference in diameter between the stock coil, and the MSD coil.
I hope this answers your question, and please post how you're getting on. I do read and reply to every comment.
Cheers!
@jagmods
@@JagMods Hey, thanks for such a thorough reply. Thank You, I am rebuilding that module, seems my capacitor is working and the other black relay I think it is, just wiring rusted etc.. thanks again, I hope it starts up any day now just like yours did :)
Let me or us know how you get along
@@JagMods I cleaned up the ignition module, no start. :( tried changing relay, no start, still no signal to fuel pump.. as in power, but to be honest, I'm not sure how to check it... it was making that static sound, now no sound... I changed the cable, I even cleaned up all inside ignition module, capacitor built up ohms to 19 and fell... so that's working etc...
nxt thing I was even thinking to make a claim w insurance to investigate this thoroughly and see this is fixed for good. ? any thoughts on how that might go ?
Check in the comments on this video below, specifically Tyler Rogers. He had a similar issue. Let me know if that doesn't help.
Has the car ever ran? is it new to you? in a no start / run condition? I'm assuming you've checked the compression and the condition of the spark plugs.
1. Have you checked for spark? I believe in the Video, I had my handy dandy spark light that I put between the plug and the plug wire. this can also be accomplished by pulling a spark plug, then grounding the electrode on the engine. this is best done in a dark area so you can see if there's a spark or not. This can also be accomplished by pulling a plug wire, and leaving a gap between the plug wire and the distributor cap, or the plug. If there's spark when the engine is turned over, then you'll hear it, and may even see it. The handy dandy spark checker is worth it's weight in gold. I got mine from the local automotive store, or on amazon.
That being said, are you sure you don't have any spark?. The next tool that you'll need is a multi-tester for checking voltage.
2. What is the condition of the battery. Resting it should have somewhere between 12.0 - 12.75V. if the battery is any less than 11.5V resting - the car won't start.
3. Measure the voltage across both poles on the coil. it should read about the same as the battery maybe 1 or 1.5 volts less (If you've got a ballast resister in place).
4. check the voltage between the battery + to the negative on the coil. you should get full battery voltage.
5. do the same but in reverse battery - and coil + should be the same - full battery voltage
6. Voltage out of the coil. should be about the same as the battery maybe 1.5V less if there's a ballast Resister in the mix.
Get back to me, with answers to the above questions, and I'll point you in the next logical direction.
7. Is there any side to side movement in the distributor? if the bushes are worn, this will also play a havoc on trying to start.
A less obvious issue, is on my '86 XJ6 (grey one) had a very similar issue. but was quite baffling. I had spark, I had fuel pressure, the injectors are firing, but it still wouldn't start. The issue was the cam chain on the intake side was too sloppy and the cam was out of time with the pistons & the ignition. The distributor is driven from the crankshaft. so if the valve timing is off it won't start either. Well Consistently. On a rare occasions the engine would fire right up and run great - then go for a drive get just far enough that getting home was a hike, come up to a stop after deacceleration, and the engine would quit and not start again. The deacceleration is what tipped me off about the cam timing being the next place to check. This does require two special tools available at SNGBarratt
Anyway, get back to me with a bit more info and I'll point you in the next logical direction.
Good luck mate!
I'll be posting a video on my channel of what it looks like to drive with a failing coil pack.
Looking forward to seeing it! cheers!
thanks for making this !!
You are so welcome! I hope you find this helpful. I know for me, it was a key factor in both of my XJ6 Series III's.
@@JagMods yeah man they love to shut off lol going to install those two parts today Al keep ya posted 💪 this was excellent content keep sharing!
Thank you!
the curse of crusty wiring. keep a good supply of patch wire & crip connectors handy. Good luck! DO let me know how you get on.
Thanx again
@@JagMods replaced the module and condenser still no spark from coil!
@@nino8513
Sorry; mate! I just saw your response. I'm usually really good at replying. I don't know how this one got past me. Did you get it sorted?
Just a minor tip. If you are doing unscrewing play some 70's porn music backwards and if you're screwing play it forwards
Good one!! Have say that made me giggle. Thanx mate!
By the way this made my jag fire right up .
That is great news! Thank you so much for sharing your success. That is awesome. I love to read the info supplied actually works on somebody else’s Jag.
@@JagMods yeah Im going to replace fuel pump and filter next it seems to be the original and over working it's self but other then that these are pretty great cars Thanx.
Do you have a brother named Darrel .
No brother named Darrell. A neighbor named Darrell though, 😆