Jaguar IRS disassembly Hub / Carrier & halfshafts

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ม.ค. 2025

ความคิดเห็น • 16

  • @yupsir791
    @yupsir791 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for the video! My rear hub bearings need some love. I got my Jag from WA when I was stationed in Bangor.

    • @JagMods
      @JagMods  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      That's funny these videos are coming from WA not too far from Bangor

  • @nickburleson9555
    @nickburleson9555 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Jag mods thank you so much your vids are a lot of help I just bought a 1987 xj6 last month . I drove it a week and put a new battery on it . And it stalled twice on the highway I replaced the alternator but no luck I'm gonna keep going though because I love these cars and I want to have this one as a daily driver.

    • @JagMods
      @JagMods  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      That sounds just like my first XJ6. once I got the battery and alternator sorted. I agree these are beautiful cars; and are worth keeping on the road. All but two of my 8 jaguars were saved from being crushed. Some people rescue dogs. Me? Jaguar cars. :)
      Thank you so much for the kind words. I glad you found the videos useful.
      Sincerely,
      Mark @ jag mods

    • @nickburleson9555
      @nickburleson9555 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@JagMods thanx I'll stay in touch if that's cool I think I've got fuel trouble to be honest .and I really need to get electric tester and stuff I looked at my ignition mod but all the wires look look like there in good shape I watched your video on getting spark back . But I'm pretty sure it's fuel because it set for awhile before I bought it idk I'm just gonna keep messing with it. There to beautiful to let go your right about that thanks again.

    • @JagMods
      @JagMods  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Certainly!
      Fuel system....
      First check the fuel pressure to the injector rail. it should fall in somewhere around 36psi. anything less, check the fuel filter in the boot, while that's disconnected it doesn't hurt to blow a bit of carb cleaner through the line with the fuel rail disconnected and something to catch the flammables at the other end. While the wife is a way, I use the can opener to open up the fuel filter apart; looking for rust; or a slimy milky like fluid - that is supposed to be stuck on the inside of the tank, as rust-proof coating.
      A word of caution when working with the fuel system
      The fuel injection system on these car is old, and are Like any 2yr old toddler. Agitate them, and they will weep. The fuel system IS under pressure; 36 to 40psi to be exact. Disconnecting a fuel line without releasing the pressure is an instant petrol bath. Blead the fuel system first. Or if you're like me (Safety 3rd) put a rag to cover the connection keeping the petrol bath at bay.
      Jag fires are a very real thing.
      Nothing like unsolicited advice. haha!!
      My experience with non running Jags, and sadly to say is significant. Rarely is the fuel system the issue the fuel injection Jags. These cars are old, and are Like any 2yr old toddler. Agitate them, and they will weep. A carbureted Jag is a way different story - especially with today's petrol.
      My experiences are; more often than not, the ignition system is the culprit. Specifically the coil or the ignition amplifier or in my case cooked wires.
      Side tracked side note
      Like size, mileage, matters. Consider anything over 140,000 miles the Golden years. Tell tale sign is low oil pressure less than 20psi at an idle and less than or equal to 40psi at operating revs. I haven't found oil consumption to be much of a guage. as much as low compression, bottom end rattles and low oil pressure. I also recommend 20w-50 or at least a 15w-40 oil. Oil changes every 3,000 miles. The engine tolerances of these engines aren't even in the same playing field as todays engines.
      Random start / stop issues on injected Jags?
      could be cam timing. If the Previous Owner considered regular oil changes as a mere suggestion, or the engine spent a bunch of its life on the right side of of the rev counter chances are the cam(s) are out of time with the bottom end - either stretched cam chain, or the upper tensioners are warn. My experience is if the engine fires up, and dies on deacceleration and refuses to start afterwards. then like magic it fires up again, but dies again on deacceleration, or sounds like a sewing machine above 2000 revs - look at the timing change and chain tensioners.
      Thank you again for taking the time to comment. It means loads to me.
      Sincerely,
      Mark @ Jagmods

    • @nickburleson9555
      @nickburleson9555 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@JagMods thank you sir I subscribed instantly as soon as I started seeing your jag mod videos. Thank you oh gracious one for your knowledge. I'm not going to give up Because these cars are awesome going down the road. And I can't thank you enough. I'll be doing some diagnostic work tomorrow. Thank you so much for the advice . Sincerely NickB

    • @nickburleson9555
      @nickburleson9555 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Quick question if you turn the key on 2 and there's a buzz in the front of the engine and the fuel pump is at a continuous hum what do you suggest when you have time of course.

  • @gbhoday7160
    @gbhoday7160 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    great video! I'm just about to attempt this and the manual is clear as mud. Happy I found this as a reference. Keep it up, liked and subscribed for more.

    • @JagMods
      @JagMods  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you again for the kinds words. I'm working on the next step the fulcrum arm installation. I agree the manual any of them, but even the Green Jag manual is pretty vague unless you can get your hands on a XJ Series I manual. Most of the mechanical bits (of information) transfer through all the way to the '90's There is some variation. I'll stop now... :)
      Again thank you! your kind words are the reason why I'm doing this, and well I too couldn't find any reliable help.
      Thanx again,
      Mark

  • @TaylorNelson-q4d
    @TaylorNelson-q4d ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks so much for your videos. I am working on a resto-mod that has an 86’ XJS IRS installed. I am disassembling everything and rebuilding, because I don’t trust the previous owner. I am having a hard time getting the bearing off the hub. I have a hub puller but I need to start the separation before I can fit the puller on. Any advice?

    • @JagMods
      @JagMods  ปีที่แล้ว

      I’m trying to remember, I know that mine gave me a little bit of trouble getting the little dumb shops out of the differential. I’m assuming that’s what you’re talking about. Can I get back to you on this? Sorry I don’t have an immediate answer. it’s been several years since I’ve done it in a lot happened anyway, I’ll get back to you either way I promise

    • @JagMods
      @JagMods  ปีที่แล้ว

      If you’re talking about separating the part, the bolts under the way up in the carrier, those can be a bitch. I know I used a press to get them off and I was pretty close to 20 tons before it popped and I had to go change my shorts it scared me. The factory recommends using Loctite to hold all that stuff together. If you use Loctite read your gonna have to place some heat to get it to come apart. Just be very cognizant that aluminum melts very easily so be careful. Let me know if I’m closer way off base.