At 13:22, I noticed you used the solder sucker on the battery pads. Is that tool necessary, or can I just flood new solder into the pad until most/all the old solder has been replaced with new solder? But thanks for the clear video, will probably be using this as a reference when I reflow my dead Yellow cartridge.
It is not mandatory but if it is easy to do so, it is always better to remove the old lead-free tin and put lead-tin alloy for better performance and better weld shine.
I’m pretty green when it comes to soldering so I apologize. It looks like you’re putting hot glue across many of these parts before re soldering them. May I ask, is that what that is? And what is that for?
The whitish-transparent gel is called flux. I use the original Amtech NC-559-V2-TF flux. It's purpose is to remove oxide so you can have brighter and better welds and it helps the flow of the tin itself. Green solder mask is MECHANIC GY-UVH900
At 13:22, I noticed you used the solder sucker on the battery pads. Is that tool necessary, or can I just flood new solder into the pad until most/all the old solder has been replaced with new solder? But thanks for the clear video, will probably be using this as a reference when I reflow my dead Yellow cartridge.
It is not mandatory but if it is easy to do so, it is always better to remove the old lead-free tin and put lead-tin alloy for better performance and better weld shine.
I’m pretty green when it comes to soldering so I apologize. It looks like you’re putting hot glue across many of these parts before re soldering them. May I ask, is that what that is? And what is that for?
Flux
The whitish-transparent gel is called flux. I use the original Amtech NC-559-V2-TF flux. It's purpose is to remove oxide so you can have brighter and better welds and it helps the flow of the tin itself.
Green solder mask is MECHANIC GY-UVH900
Promo SM 👌
Thank you!