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some things in life take more than 5 minutes Bro

very much so, i think ive gone on one leisurely ride on the road since i found this mtb place nearby hahaha.

The cleanup isn't as fun though😂

@@BrettWoodBiking if you're talking about a muddy ride then yes. Most of my rides are on dry dirt days. Still way more fun than on the road but no real need to clean it every time. Just keep the drivetrain cleaned and lubed and good til the next ride.

@@Hybrid600 yeah especially if I run through a dog shit. I keep the bike in my place so, I have to go through leaps and bounds to make sure that don't happen... And if it does, I just about lose my mind till every spec is off the tire 😂 last time it was splattered up my back, and on my rucksack, seat, frame. I was gagging just from the thought and it felt like insects crawling on me all the way home

yeah, its a concern, i had the throttle go wide open one time with my flipsky and i have no idea why, could have been the throttle But im really not sure, im lucky i was able to grab the bike quickly and lift it up. and then managed to just disconnect the battery

i took the BBSHD MTB out on the 52V 8AH Lil Baby Samsung. and it got around just fine with the low gearing and MTPA enabled in vesc feels nice. But yeah, I am going back to 72V for sure, its a much less versatile machine on lower voltage. But I just will use smaller batteries with high discharge cells. I dont need a giant battery with 100 cells on my bike the entire time I will probably use smaller batteries and swap them out. when I mtb. I agree though I have a video coming soon where i use 52v. and its not quite the same as 72v especially going up jumps and bursts of acceleration and power are not quite the same on 52v.

I guess you haven't watched the videos on EMBN (Electric Mountain Bike Network) on TH-cam. Those guys are using 36v 250w e-mtb's and climbing insanely steep and technical hills. Doing types of climbs that the average person wouldn't even attempt. They won't go as fast as a 72v bike up the hills but they will make it up no problem.

i agree, lots of torque on the low end, on these trails there are a number of sections where 90NM torque and a heavy fat tire ebike cannot make it, then you can see when I use the front motor and have twice as much power and torque (and also, 2wd) it can easily make it. I dont know if I could get through these trails with only the rear motor, I should try that ....

Nico you called it when you asked me about a new battery project, LOL ! I am interested in your thoughts on building batteries for EMTB , what do you think should be done to build a rugged battery for that purpose? I imagine eMTB batteries need a good deal of physical protection like cell spacers, perhaps foam or some kind of rubber etc to absorb impacts and vibration?

​@@EBikeBuilder_ Yeah maybe some kind of hard case to protect from rocks if you ever lay it over.

Please could you post the link. I am looking for a dual drive bike.

@@BrettWoodBiking yeah, slime sucks, has been my experience also. The prefilled slime tubes should be illegal haha false advertising. I’ve used so many of them , and I’ve never had them seal anything successfully. I think slime got lazy or something and they never improved, all these other better products came out… but slime apparently doesn’t want to compete with a better product. They are lazy riding the gravy train. Not paying attention to everyone jumping ship using other products, word of mouth etc. its when companies think they are too big to fail and get arrogant like that, is how they fail

theres some flowy stuff that could be super fun. But i wonder about all the roots on a one wheel

@@EBikeBuilder_ they can definitely mess you up! It's a good challenge I like getting air off of them. Glad you're having fun out on the trails.

maybe for normal cycling, But on my ebike i can barely tell its in my backpack

@@stevecumming6427 they are lg 21700 cells i might tear it apart I’m not going to try and use it as an ebike battery anymore.

the video where i do the Flipsky 75100 unboxing is the one where I make a wiring harness , in my case it was for a BBSHD but the same thing could be done to connect it to a hub motor, which I eventually did with the G62 hub motor

i dont have one that is quite this lightweight, small, and portable, and this one also has that DEFLATE button which my other ones don't, and is extremely useful combined with that digital gauge. I'll be bringing this in my backpack EVERYWHERE!! Especially when MTB-ing because you tend to lose a lot of pressure....! Ty For the comment my friend, they really are useful in an emergency, I agree.

I got a stinking hand pump probably pulls more air out than pushes in. 😂 Was the start of your video AI generated? How long did it take to go from 17 to 20 psi?

Cool Pump! 🤔 It would make. Great Holiday Gift as well!

@@BrettWoodBiking the voice overs i added at like 3am right before i was going to bed 😂😂😂. It took 44 seconds total of inflating iirc from when i was editing, its not as fast as my Milwaukee m12 i use some times. But the airmoto is crazy light weight and waiting a minute in an emergency is not a big deal when the alternative is walking for hour(s) !!!

i used this battery for a while to power dual hub motors so its been through the wringer Lol. i think something happened with a parallel group. As I was going home, i was noticing a very small power draw was causing a huge voltage drop. Like a few hundred watts was making the battery go from 70V+ down to 60V/dead ish. And the battery turned off a couple times from a low voltage cutoff, but I was able to reset the power button on the battery and keep going for a ways. Until it started pulsing and surging, Lol, it did that for a while and I was like holy FCk what is going on. Then i felt it give out, Looked at the ca3 and the voltage was going UP , lol to like 80 or something, and then everything shut off, and battery wouldnt come back on even when i was pressing the button. I opened it up and it definitely got F-d up at the MTB place. Some of the cells look oozy or wet or something, they dont use any cell holders or spacers. So they just have a ton of parallel groups pushed right up against each other. I cut the BMS off the battery. and its a 72V 40amp bms that i want to look at further, But the battery cells themselves are like dead weight at this point, I culdnt even get 10 amp hours out of them and its supposed to be 19ah. So im gonna trash it, I might take a volt meter and look at what happened. But not going to bother trying to fix it. Too heavy

as for the BBSHD , i agree love the motor but it hANGS DOWN SO MUCH!! A frame with a special mounting spot for a BBSHD would be 💯💯 thats the one thing about the HD for MTB, that can be an issue

@@EBikeBuilder_ I imagined a battery pack jumping up and down on that trail, regardless of the tires for smoothing, those 18650’s sounded like a boxer’s speed bag.

no no no! Aren't you worried it will get stolen? You can do 8 miles. get back there! 😂 No man left behind!!! 😂😂😂

Safety protocole is to put the battery in a 50gals drum half way filled with sand. Set the drum 30ft away from any habitated area. You and your neighbours are now safe if runaway ever happens. I can help you dispose and recycle that battery

Hopefully just a weld broke loose from all those jumps

@@BrettWoodBiking its a trash battery at this point it weighs like 15 pounds and its supposed to put out 19AH. but its only doing like 10AH. so its not even worth Fing around with. when I could build a better battery with 28 cells that weighs 5 pounds!! But i am KEEPING THAT HARD CASE BABY! and ill put some different cells in it. Im gonna be building some MTB batteries soon Lol. with the cells from my high voltage batteries, i took them apart

This ride rattled the UUPP battery dead 🪫 😢 But lots of that noise is my drive train. When my BBSHD chainring spins freely with no resistance theres this crazy bearing roar noise. Is probably it. Goes away when I’m on the throttle but when i let off and the chainring is just spinning its really bad

Also I have AVIATOR sunglasses somewhere and THOSE THINGS are rattle bastards omfg I cant bring them anywhere on a bike unless it’s on my head

@@EBikeBuilder_ 😉

@@minalobudeshte that’s a great point yes i have used it for a while with both the mid drive and a hub motor now 🥳 i am going to do that video in the near future, i would like to go through the process of upgrading the firmware first and see if any problems occur 😂🤞 i also noticed some issues when scripting that make it seem like either there’s a bug in vesc itself, or, there’s a bug with now flipsky implemented it within their hardware, I’m not exactly sure yet

@@EBikeBuilder_ this will be great. After this video another great point will be the battery that you are using. It seems to me that you built yourself the battery too.. Samsung Cells etc.. what BMS are you using? pros and cons etc.. Your videos are great

good question i might make a quick video about this, its probably a common one, but long story short, the five star is already on 60V with a decent controller and the motor is probably being pushed close to its limits already. The common way to increase the speed of an ebike is to increase the voltage of the battery and system. But in your case going from 60v to 72v would be an expensive upgrade for marginal gains. For the five star, I would ride it into the dirt. and then eventually upgrade the entire rear wheel to a different one, with a QS205 or QS273 direct drive hub motor, entirely different controller, and display, etc. It usually comes as a kit, where the motor is already laced into the wheel, you just need to make sure the wheel "outer locknut diameter" or the OLD of the wheel matches your rear dropouts on the five star frame, it will either be 175mm or 190mm, If you have 190mm rear dropouts on the fivestar you should be able to fit a large direct drive hub motor on it (closer to a motorcycle motor). But yeah the main challenge would be finding a big direct drive motor, that fitsyour bike frame dropouts, and has the correct motor windings for how fast you want to go. I think there are 4T and 5T hub motors that accelerate faster with more torque, but the top speed and the high end sucks. Then you can get a "fast" wound DD hub motor, like 3.5T, which starts out a bit slower with less torque, but once it gets moving it will rip up to 50 or 60 MPH very easily. If you want to go fast on the streets you probably want the 3.5T qs205 or qs273. Theres also the Grin Tech All Axle "Fat" motor, which i think is similar to like a qs205. but better canadian engineering and whatnot. In addition to the width of the motor / OLD, make sure the axle flats on your motor are the same size as the axle flats / dropout on the fivestar frame,, otherwise you mighjt have to modify the frame and file it down to fit bigger axle in it, etc. I hope that helps its a good question with a lot of nuances. I might make a video and go into detail

Super thanks for all the leads of components. That will keep me busy for a bit Looking things up. You have some great insight. I will be buying another 5 star to mess with and have spair components / a frame and base to build a super bike. I love the first gen I have. It's been a work horse. I'm a engineer / machinest and always looking for the next step. Thank you again for your content. Keep up the great work.

the rst guide forks are funny, the coil forks I’ve used all have this terrible spring action and clapping noise when the front wheel goes in the air. i feel like some times they can compress on one side more than the other?? Lol. But they can hold that front motor in. The cheetah forks, were quick release and weighed a lot lighter. I think the cheetah forks dropouts fit the motor axle flats just fine, and did seem beefy, but I’ve broke so many forks with the front motor that i wasn’t going to chance it. I don’t have the cycle analyst hooked to the front motor no, its just on an 21 amp controller and 500C display, with a separate throttle, yeah. The rear motor is the cheetah motor , on a phaserunner, i think i had them both set around 1100w, sometimes i boost the rear one up to 1500w or so. I find the front motor doesn’t really need a crazy controller setup. I like it on a separate throttle, i haven’t tried the standalone dual motor shunt from grin tech which i think might allow separate throttles and the use of a single ca3. The cheetah 🐆 rear dropout is 175mm, So not super Fat like the dolomite

@@russellzauner there’s a certain monster truck feel to it when you do them both together, Lol 😂 The front motor has advanced use cases, like climbing up roots , over trees, especially off road crunching through branches and stuff 😂😂😂🚵🚵🚵

they climb up roots like stairs or a ladder 🤣🤣 So Funny!!

blue loctite on the chainring bolts solved that issue for me with keeping the 104bcd chainring on the pinion p8200 spider adapter

@EBikeBuilder_ actually, I thought your derailleur bolt came off? It's a dark vid

@@BboyKozijn i agree , but some times i film something and then change it later , lol

pedal assist shouldnt require understanding lmao. It should be intuitive. The VESC PAS sucks man; im not even going to bother with it. Sonic the Hedgehog is NOT how to do PAS lmao

@@EBikeBuilder_ thats why Im saying to lower the max... so it can go faster with less peddle... I actually like the fact that they did it that way since it gives you some control over how fast it moves... rather than my current ebike that just goes full throttle when it moves 1/4 way around... basically... I dont think Peddle assist should be an on/off switch... but it could be if you put the min 1 and max low like 2rpm

i put them on a 29er rim. and rode around with them they were fine, they are Bell tires rebranded as Blackburn. Im not an avid road cyclist But used them for commuting and i never had any issues, I took them off and still have them somewhere. Seem like an economical option. And to be honest in terms of the rubber i was surprised with traction, especially the blackburn MTB tires in lower temperatures- had great traction, i was pleasantly surprised. So in general the blackburn tires they are fine But i will say the MTB ones will wear out exceptionally fast skidding the tires and stuff. The MTB ones were pretty sticky and great traction but I wore them out super quick. The 700C tires im sure would last longer < i never wore those out.

@@EBikeBuilder_ I appreciate you answering brother ! I just got a set today! Definitely a great tire for the price. I was just looking for more input just out of curiosity lol ! Glad to see your an avid rider Knowing to skid isn’t quiet easy !