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Get the GH7... if you want to use it for video the GH7 is the best and not only because of raw video but many other advantages. It is not even close in terms of features and functionality. The OM-1 and OM-1 II have better video image stabilisation and longer battery life but apart from those two advantages it is worse in all aspects related to video shooting. The OM-1 features are lacking substantially with some bugs and lack of options for changing many settings while video recording is in progress.

Are you using audio through HDMI or through the audio input port?

I can adjust focus manually by rotating the lens however the lens is made for autofocus so it is not ideal for manual focussing as it has free movement in it which is supposed to be activated with the auto focus feature, so the extra movement in the lens makes it impractical for use for manual focussing this way. Also, the manual focus version of the camera is cheaper and you have options for other lens mounts with ZowieTek offering a zoom lens as well. So I think those options are better than the AF version.

thank you

Sounds good 👍 I have stuck with one system to benefit from re-using my lenses.

@@RadCameraMan Luv Panasonic.

@@thewalkingvloggingman7152 Yes, I like the video features

Yes, it works as a decoder although I haven't tested that particular scenario but it has decoder functionality and you can choose whether to use it in encoder or decoder mode. I have only used it as an encoder for streaming HDMI input to the internet using RTMP.

I will check this and get back to you. The reason I didn't test this is because I record directly on the camera and use the HDMI output from the camera into the ZowieBox for live streaming hence I didn't bother looking into this feature.

I haven't been able to get the autofocus functionality to work yet. If I manage to fix the AF problem, I will post sample video footage.

you're welcome 👍

As a professional all round camera the GH7 is the best choice without any competitors. In comparison to the OM-1 II for video work the GH7 is substantially better in all aspects apart from image stabilisation and battery life. For photography I think they both have good features but I think the GH7 is still better overall with higher resolution and better low light performance. There may be some niche aspects of OM1-II which is better for photography but overall the GH7 is far better in many more aspects. The choice is very easy. Regarding the travel camera, my recommendation is to go for the E-M5 III or the OM-5 instead of the E-M10 IV because the E-M10 IV has some artificial limitations which will become frustrating for you. See the following video for more details: th-cam.com/video/43EBMoTDgA8/w-d-xo.html

@@RadCameraMan thank you!

I have used it to stream with RTMP to TH-cam. Can you please let me know what your configurations are and what is the connection error message that you see?

I am not entirely clear on which part you are referring to, can you please elaborate on the instructions or point me to some images or a timestamp in the video so that I can try it out.

@@RadCameraMan sorry, my reference was to the issue of the ball head tightness, and the screw to which I refer is illustrated at 19:02 at the base where you take the rubber foot off, in center of the legs, most makers, Benro and Leofoto come to mind, use a tensioning system where an allen key or the tools I describe are used to adjust this tension, like a normal ball head, but this is a permanent friction, aka when you release the centring collar, this is what you get, for ease of use, not having to use a knob 1/4 " off the floor to adjust it, just use the collar for on/off, and this system to adjust the 'semi-fixed' tension. This also could be a case of removing this part, and shimming under the adjuster for tensioning, like in machines, the "clearance" giving the tensioning required, when that nut is screwed home.

thanks for the additional details... I will check this to see if I can find any options.

I suspect having one CFExpress and one SD card is more to do with maintaining backward compatibility while also catering to more demanding codec bitrates. Regarding 600 vs 800Mbps bitrates, the higher values allow all-intra encoding which is a significant advantage for editing workflow aside from the improved quality.

@@RadCameraMan agreed but I think it’s probably a combination of both.

The E-M1X is a great camera even by today's standards.

E-M5 III is a good camera, I use it as well.

I haven't done a speed test with the MicroSD card inside the phone. I will do this and leave a comment with my results. Do you know what the maximum bitrate for video recording is with this phone?

The eyelets are certainly good for when mounted on to a cage. Are planning to get the GH7?

Here is the link to the UK Amazon product page: amzn.to/3VZGwiq and the U.S. one amzn.to/4cDI4E0

No worries 👍

Thank you 😊

I'm glad it was useful 👍

I did not try NDI as I don't have NDI software but I can test it for you, if you tell me how to test it?

@@RadCameraMan how to get NDi out put from hdmi cable?

I am sending NDi from iphone and can see on live but cant get it hdmi output !!!

@@Sharif_FUNCOLOGY I think you need to access NDI via the Ethernet port as opposed to HDMI. So you need to connect the Zowiebox to an Ethernet cable then access its NDI functions that way.

​@Sharif_FUNCOLOGY you would need to use the device in decoder mode to convert NDI input to HDMI out.

Thanks for the suggestion. Can you please let me know what the model number is for the Sirui ?

@@RadCameraMan not the P 424, that was the older version, has a ball head on the legs, but is a different style, has a cone collar to lock it straight, what you want is the SVM 145 or SVM 165 they have the sliding collar, and the top plate collet system I was describing, with the P424 style it does some of this, but was a pioneer at it, the first footed monopod, the head comes off, but is a special socket, not a top plate 3/8" thread.

Thank you. Which camera do you have?

@@RadCameraMan I’m shooting with Osmo pocket ! But now I’m looking forward to get a gh6 or 7 . For my documentary production! Are you selling second hand cameras?

@@africamazing8143 no, I don't sell cameras 😂but both gh6 and gh7 are good cameras.

thank you, which camera do you have?

GH5 and GH6 here. Nice comparison you did. I hope GH6 gets 32-bit floating point audio with the XLR2 compatibility as well as additional features via firmware updates. Thank you.

@@WalkingInWisdom Apparently i heard its not possible as its hardware that the GH7 has.

@@Filmmaker809 do you know if the audio is digitised inside the DWM-XLR2 and then transferred to the camera or does the audio come in to the camera from the hotshoe as an analog signal?

@@RadCameraMan I don't know mate. I just know someone told me its in the hardware of ther GH7, so sadly GH5 & GH5s miss out on 32bit float audio. I hope its not true!

I am not sure what you are implying but the camera is made in Japan.

@@RadCameraMan I also have it

@@Mme.Swisstella 😂

nice, do you think those will make their way to mft?

​@@RadCameraManSure !!

why is the lumix lab app a big sell? I end up never using mobile apps for my cameras even though I always install them on my phone.

Are you using a GH5 dummy battery or the GH6 dummy battery?

@@RadCameraMan gh6...

I will try with usbc

And people dare to say they are just rebranding old Olympus stock!

Hahahaaaa... I guess it is still better than the company shutting down altogether even if their new releases are not that meaningful.

If the body is the same as the GH6 that's good because it means we can re-use existing camera cages and setup 😃

Yeah the new autofocus system is actually a huge deal. Autofocus on the GH6 was super bad, I don’t know why the guy said it’s just a small update. The autofocus was the most crippling aspect of the GH6

I think a lot of Panasonic Lumix users tend to use manual focus with mechanical manual focus cinema lenses and those who use single auto-focus won't be affected of the problems with the lack of PDAF for continuous AF.

I did not test this but let me test it and get back to you

I checked this today and to my surprise if the electricity shut down, and you reconnect the box, it does stream again automatically on youtube (rtmp), so there is no need to restart the stream on the box. I think this is good because if you are powering it with a power bank and change the power bank then the streaming restarts automatically without having to connect to the device with a computer. In fact if you don't change your stream key on youtube then you never need to access the device again (after setting it up the first time) to start live streaming, it becomes plug and play to start the live-streaming. Keep in mind that there are two toggles on the TH-cam Live Stream interface for "Enable auto-start" and "Enable auto-stop" so make sure that "Enable auto-stop" settings on TH-cam is set to off if you don't want your stream to automatically stop when the box is disconnected temporarily. Out of curiosity, how do you intend to use this encoder?

@@RadCameraMan thanks you, i m from France, i stream in churches

To my knowledge there is only one version of this device. Nevertheless, you can see the model name and part number in the video when I held up the sticker label details. So you should be able to verify which one it is. I don't know about the old one but this is the link to the one which I have: amzn.to/4aHDkfp Please let me know how I can check?

Thank you 👍 I also have separate videos for each of these videoheads but the information is repetitive, nevertheless I will leave a link to them in case it is useful: th-cam.com/play/PL42hO7UHafKverdk2zvmjTySWxrJNp167.html

Yes, that's correct, but the box needs internet connectivity the whole time so that it can stream to the server (e.g. youtube/twitch).

Is the camera in manual mode or is the flash in manual mode? If the camera and flash are in manual mode then you should be able to adjust the shutter speed and iso to make the picture bright.

@@RadCameraMan Is camera in manual mode. The flash with optical slave is simple, but years ago I tried this process with a Nikon 6006 (with film) and the images were normal. Also with Fuji finepix S5500, with the same simple flash, the photos were normal.

@simbad-4724 Obviously the camera expects more light than it is being provided with so one solution is to set both the camera and the flash output power manually. That way if you control the shutter speed and iso as well as the power output of the flash then it should be possible to adjust everything manually. If you want some aspects to remain on auto then you may need to adjust exposure compensation on the flash and on the camera because the camera does not have any control over the secondary flash which is being used so it cannot adjust itself to it. If you want me to provide exact step by step guide on the process, please let me know the exact settings you have for: the camera, its flash, and the external flash. I can then replicate the same settings and suggest a solution because without knowing the exact settings it is difficult to provide any help.

@@RadCameraMan Dear Sir, thank you very much for your availability. So, my camera is Canon 50D. I used manual mode for all. Manual focus to avoid preflash. Iso manual mode 200. Speed from 1/125, to 1/20. Aperture from 6.3, to 22. Built in flash with a piece aluminium paper forward to direct flash light toward the ceiling. Second flashes with optical slaves : Danubia FD 900 TT, Suntax, Metz mecablitz 28C-2, Multiblitz (german years 60) All these in manual mode. Sure, these are very old, but I repeat, years ago with Nikon 6006 film camera, I used these flashes, and the photos were good. With Canon I don't understand what happens. The second flashes firing before or after curtains aperture . I tried with many speeds and apertures, but without results. I don't know what to du more.

I mainly record video so I want the video features such as UVC and vertical video which exist in OM-5 as well as improvements to AF and stabilisation. What do you use GND for?

Me too😂

Do you mean they overflow in the vertical direction at the top or do they overflow to the left and right direction?

@@RadCameraMan Actually upwards. But today I realized that it must be my fault. It stayed well within the range in Auto mode today. But if I change the settings to manual, I always have the deflection at the top that would go even further than with clipping. even if I use the same settings as the camera in auto mode.

@@dre1z3hn The vertical orientation overflowing upwards indicates the quantity of a certain brightness level (color) in number of pixels, so it is fine for this to overflow. If the histogram overflows to the left or right, that is a problem and it means that part of the image are being blown out due to being too bright if it overflows to the right and shadows are being crushed into black if it overflows to the left. So the histogram overflowing upwards is fine, since it is only an indication of how much of a particular brightness level is in your photo. There is nothing wrong with this. Please let me know if I should provide more information or clarify further.

@@RadCameraMan understood. Thank you for taking your time. 🙏🏻🙋🏻‍♂️

No, definitely not. To my knowledge there is no cage for the OM-5 so I am using an unbranded L-bracket which provides additional mounting holes on the left side for attaching a cold shoe and a grip: amzn.to/4bwfSTx

Thanks, here is a more in-depth video about the E-M5 III camera (in case it is useful) th-cam.com/video/4uMlapEaIAg/w-d-xo.html

Thanks 👍 I have a few other videos about this camera (in case it is useful) th-cam.com/play/PL42hO7UHafKsC6u63Zx4pVHvimhefPUgz.html

Thanks 👍 there is a more detailed video with the AC-5 adapter and the peculiarities around powering the E-M1 III and E-M1X (in case it is useful) th-cam.com/video/mbck9-qoiN8/w-d-xo.html

I'm glad it was useful. In my opinion the E-M5 III is much better overall even though in some areas the E-M10 IV has superior features. In case you want more in-depth information. I have separate videos for each: E-M10 IV: th-cam.com/video/TKlZQdeysnI/w-d-xo.html and the E-M5 III: th-cam.com/video/4uMlapEaIAg/w-d-xo.html and some more comparisons: th-cam.com/video/WS8teL2Mtns/w-d-xo.html

What is your take on the HLD-10 in comparison to the previous generation HLD-9 grip in terms of ergonomics as well as its portrait grip? th-cam.com/video/OQe11HxQwAk/w-d-xo.html

This is correct. I meant in order to charge the in camera battery externally, it can only be charged via usb since it cannot be physically accessed while the grip is attached.

What were your reasons for returning it?

@@RadCameraMan The grip didn`t fit well in the hand.

Agreed, I don't know if you used the HLD-9 grip with previous Olympus cameras but I prefer that one: th-cam.com/video/OQe11HxQwAk/w-d-xo.html

I think the compromise on the ergonomics was too much to justify that advantage, although I mainly use smaller wide angle lenses for video recording, so my requirements are different but still in comparison to the previous HLD-9 grip, it doesn't have the same good ergonomics even for large lenses in my opinion: th-cam.com/video/0Je6hF1CpLQ/w-d-xo.html

I don't do a lot of vertical shooting, so that is less of requirement for me. What do you typically shoot vertically?

@@RadCameraMan Muscians, people, portraits.

How does the HLD-10 compare to the previous generation HLD-9 grip for vertical shooting for your work? th-cam.com/video/0Je6hF1CpLQ/w-d-xo.html

I'm glad it was useful 👍

Please let me know which of the points are incorrect?