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Thanks EC. I've got a pile of saw at this point, and enough to do without spending my time restoring a saw with a bad crack. If I do pull that saw back out of the pile at some point, it will probably be to modify it to avoid that crack, but that's just me. Have fun with your restoration, and I'm glad this was helpful. Cheers!

Thanks for your comments. I do have smaller saw files, and while I can't show everything in the video, I did give some of the smaller files a go, and they didn't cut as well with these big teeth. As far as the uphill stroke, I think you can see that I am using some slope on the final sharpening. Going deeper to create sloped gullets is a technique I don't usually use on these old saws. For me I think it removes some of the support for the tooth, and we've all seen missing teeth on old saws. The reduced support, stress hardening, and some rust pitting can make them fragile. I did wax the tote, and the plate, with Johnson' paste wax and 0000 steel wool, doesn't show in the video. I agree that polishing the saw nuts on the buffer is easier and brightens them, but I don't like the bright brass, and I'm not looking for that like new finish on my restored tools. I don't have a welder, and I'm not sure how that would impact the temper. I'll keep the damaged saw and cut it down for a bench saw or something. I have another video where I've done something similar with a worn out saw. You've seen them, sharpened til they look like keyhole saws. I'm glad you liked and thanks again for your thoughts! And the leftover pieces make great scrapers! I also have a video showing a custom card scraper from a piece of backsaw plate.

I've added what I used. Thanks for commenting, and good luck on your projects!

@moonlightsnowfall6734 Thank You ! Best of Luck !

Thanks Chris, that must be a nice saw. I'm not aware of a comprehensive website reference for R Groves & Sons, but according to one site, the & Sons may have come after 1822, but that still gives you a really wide area where your saw may have been made, even if you can ballpark when you grandfather may have acquired it. If anyone else know of a resource that may have more information on Richard Groves and Sons, our of Sheffield, England, please let us know! Thanks for commenting Chris, and good luck with your restoration!

Thanks, I've heard that before. Since hearing it, I gave it a go, and it wasn't a work flow that worked for me, so since then I've tried to lighten up the pressure on the back stroke. I don't always turn my planes on their sides when I set them down on the bench either. The good news is, files are one of those hand tools that folks typically give away at yards sales, and tag sales. Thanks for watching and sending me a note!

Thanks LD

Thanks JB, the winding sticks are still nice and straight, and working well. One of so reasons I use small rags for linseed oil is so that the dry pretty quickly. I single, small piece isn't a risk for spontaneous combustion as it dries out. Piles of rags, or multiple folds retain the heat. In fact if I'm busy around the shop, I can use the same small piece multiple times. When it does start to get tacky, I can use it as a tack cloth on the next project. You're right tho, we should all be careful. Cheers!

Thanks RF. That was my thought as well, but I haven't seen one digit stamped so deep, with no sign of the other digit. I was wondering if anyone else had seen this on a Disston saw.

Thanks JC, and Me Too! I haven't forgotten, I've just been busy on some smaller projects. I need some wood for the sides, or stretchers, on either side of the core, and a nice chunk of something for the head piece--maybe walnut?-- which will be dovetailed to the stretchers to take the pressure from the vice. I appreciate you watching and checking in.

I enjoyed the process of your build@@moonlightsnowfall6734. I built a bench a few years back, not really understanding what a well tuned bench can do. I was just happy to have a surface to work on and clamp to. Now I realize the limitations of a crude, but sturdy bench. I'm building a mobile, mini bench to clamp to my main. 30" or so X 12" I want multiple ways to hold material. Gathering info on tail vises but it'll be total DIY. So I appreciated your approach and what you were doing. Hope the vise comes together and vid#4 gets done. Cheers!

Thanks man! If you aren't lounging, you're working too hard.

I've seen that done, and I agree that it looks nice. I admit I'm fixing up--and in this case building--working tools, and I don't normally worry too much about details like that, assuming they'll be adjusted with the change of season, etc.

Thant makes sense Jim, thanks! And you may be right on what this saw is, it came to me in pretty much the condition shown, and I don't know anything about it.

Thanks DB, I was excited to find this saw in a lot of old saws. Its my go-to saw now for small work.

Thanks PP, it was a fun project!

Thanks PH, and good luck on your saw till and sharpening projects. I need a new saw till as well, the quick one I made years ago is overloaded.

Thank you GH. I use sandpaper (by hand ) to remove rust, after I soak the blade in rust remover. The teeth are sharpened with small triangular files. Sorry, I have no Spanish!

Thanks TED, a working tool is exactly what I'm looking for. Handsome is nice, but it doesn't help get the job done.

@@moonlightsnowfall6734 You do it the right way in my book. When I was quite young - actually before I started school, I think - my grandfather showed me how to look at the reflected edge of the board in the saw blade, and tilt the blade until it looked like the saw blade was transparent, and you could see the edge of the board run straight through the blade. He prized that polish on the blade and maintained all his saws that way.

Thanks Cap! I agree.

Thanks for watching, I hope you found something useful! -Phil

Thanks a lot, I hope you found something useful! And thanks for commenting!

Thank you, and thanks for commenting!

I get that question a lot. Boiled linseed oil isn't boiled anymore, they just add driers, usually metallic driers, along with solvents and in some cases other oils. I see folks putting this on with their bare hands, its more like a paint. The raw linseed oil takes longer to dry, so I think it penetrates the wood better before it sets up. Its still under-cured when I add the first coat of shellac, which mixes with it a little to form a varnish, which I think gives a better bond for the finish. That in combination with a little paste wax means its easy to rub it back in a few years and maintain it. Thanks NM!

Thanks SS, I'm glad to hear you've found something helpful in these videos!

Thanks SS, and you definitely should! Older saws are made better, the plates are taper ground tool steel so they can be sharpened over and over. Newer saws are often hardened only at the teeth. That's just for starters! good luck and have fun!

@@moonlightsnowfall6734 I hear you there! I was business partners with my dad for nearly 10 years- we're builders. He instilled a love of old tools in me. Sadly he passed away about 2 years ago, but these tools make me feel like he's close. His fingerprints are still on some of them!! I'm excited to undertake this though, and yes, it should be fun!!

@@stuartsmith3823 Some of the stuff I started with came from my grandfather, and now I'm working with some of my dads tools. I lost my dad around the same time. I know exactly what you mean.

Thanks h, I'm really happy with how this one came out. Its the perfect size for breaking down stock.

@@moonlightsnowfall6734 I have two, exactly the same era/pattern. Both are 7tpi, one filed for crosscut, the other for rip. They were my dad’s, and probably his dad’s too. Definitely worth preserving.

Good day to you Gaby, and thanks. I agree, it is a good hobby. It sounds like we do the same thing!

Thanks Gaby, I've made a few saws like this, rather than throwing away a worn out saw. Merci!

Thanks PC. This was a fun one, and I learned some things too! Glad it was helpful.

Thanks Steve!

Good one!

Hi AC, thanks for watching and for the question. Saws typically don't have model numbers stamped on them in my experience. If there is an etch on the plate, that will sometimes have the model, but with older saws, the etch is often rusted away. Without the etch, the design of the saw is what we're left with. The shape of the tote, along with the medallion, bolt pattern, and the shape of the plate is usually what we have to go on. The teeth per inch can be changed over time, so unless there is a number stamped on the heel that confirms what you're seeing, its not a reliable way to determine model number. Saw makers often made many tooth and length options for the same model. There are lots of on line resources out there. One of my favorites for Disston saws is www.disstonianinstitute.com/ Erik von Sneidern has done us all a service with the work he has put into his website. I hope that helps! -Philo

Thanks DE, you aren't the first one to say that! I will be doing my text differently in future videos. Thanks for watching and for letting me know how I can do better! -Philo

Thanks PB, I've used the color to try and create more contrast with the background, but maybe I can find a way to put the text on a strip of contrast so its easier to read, that way I can stick with black. I'll give it a try and see what I can do in future videos. -Philo

Same tool as I made, only made from bone instead of wood. Its for folding paper cleanly and other similar tasks, while keeping your fingers off the paper. Thanks AB!

Thanks MR, I'm glad you got something out of this, and I wish you good luck in your restorations! Happy New Year!

Thanks AZ

Thanks MR&T, I'm glad you found somethings useful. Thanks for watching!

Thanks WV, its working out great.

Thanks WV. I'm not sure I completely understand your comment, but I'm glad you took the time to watch and comment! Thanks

Thanks Greg, I'm glad you found something helpful. If I was going to make this tool again, I'd grind away a little more from the sides, or maybe make a custom tool (more work!) as I need to be careful not to scratch the wood with the parts of the tool that stick out beyond the screw. Cheers!

Thanks Jack, the tooth shape is where the difference is. The leading face of rip teeth are typically more vertical, and the faces of the teeth are usually square; like a row of tiny chisels lined up. Cross cut teeth are more leaned back, and the front and back face of each tooth is sharpened; like a row of tiny knifes lined up. Blackburn tools has a great page on this: www.blackburntools.com/articles/saw-tooth-geometry/index.html. About halfway down the page there is a diagram of rip vs. crosscut teeth if you aren't interested in the other geometry stuff they get into.

Thanks Harold! This was a fund project to do, I do hope you make one for yourself, and I hope I get a chance to see the results.

@@moonlightsnowfall6734 you opened my eyes to the physics of tote and blade geometry , after I watched your video I studied my saws and realized why I like using some over others . Thanks again . Do you have a favorite Facebook group? Cheers

That's a good question LM, the value of the tools that I'm restoring is typically pretty limited. Disston made really nice saws, but as far as I know, only the very old ones have significant value as antiques or collectables. Disston was so popular that there are piles of saws out there of similar vintage to this saw, so the value to me is that even though it may 100 years old, its still a better saw than what you can buy new in most cases. If your saws were made before 1900, it may be worth looking into their value before restoring if the value is what you are interested in. For me, I want a user, and the work I put into this saw will be part of its history in another 100 years. What's right for me however, may not be right for you or others. Thanks for commenting!

Thanks KB, this was a fun project and just cleaning them up and getting them back into service is my goal. I like to hear that their age still shows! Thanks for watching and for commenting! Rosewood was definitely a bonus. This putty knife is the stiff bladed version shown in the catalog.

Thanks FStP, the old handle or tote has a lot of history, as well as lot of good work put into it. Not to mention that the quality of older woods is typically superior to new growth lumber. Saving as much as I can is typically what I try to do, when I can. Thanks for watching, and for commenting!

FStP, I think you're right, and I have a lathe, but because my ability to hold stock on my lathe is limited, I probably would have had to glue scraps on each end, and then cut them off after the tuning. After thinking about it, this way seemed easier and a little more fun. Thanks!

Thanks for your interest Roy. It may be a little premature to post the plans, as they are changing pretty quickly as I move through the process. It was my plan to update the model and post it for anyone who is interested at the end. That way, I can make the mistakes so you don't have to!

Thanks Roy. The plate washer is a spare I found on a construction site. It was designed for an anchor bolt holding down a steel column base plate. I'm sure it could be fabricated from 1/4-inch steel, but having the hole there was easier for me as I don't have a lot of metalworking tools.

@@moonlightsnowfall6734 Thanks for the reply. I did some looking when you said "Construction Site". Found a couple at L owes and Home D. I ordered two from 3 gage steel (roughly 6 mm or 1/4") They came in a 5/8" hole at Lo's and a 1/2" hole at HD. I ordered from HD and just will redrill the hole to 3/4". I'm building a tilting bench with a vise similar to the obsolete B/W workmate. I'll be using a 1" wooden screw instead of the metal screw. Thanks again. Love that bowtie retaining clip. Clever?

​@@royalmaroad5639 Glad you found something. Bow tie clever vs. needlessly complicated? The original design called for installing the spin nut in the middle of the wagon, so the wagon would move along a fixed screw. Since I changed, that the reasons for the split wagon are probably less clear, but I decided to stick with it and mount the split washer there in the hope that it help prevent the wagon binding. Like all first workbench builds, I assume I'll learn everything I should have known by the time I'm finished.

Thanks BW! I haven't had much use for it yet, but I'm looking forward to it.