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Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching. The gas expansion holes are there so that as the tube heats up from welding and air inside of it heats up and expands, that air has a place to go instead of through the molten puddle of the last weld on the tube that would seal it completely if the system of holes were not in place. If you let everything cool and are quick with the last weld, I've heard that weldments can be successfully completed without the holes, but I do not want to take the unneeded chance that the weld puddle will blow out and make a mess and contaminate my tungsten because it was blown out from pressure inside of the tube. Thanks again for watching, and good luck with your project! I like LeMans', I want to find a '65 one day.

@@keefershotrodshop that's something that I didn't know about Welding with Tig I just have a stick welder And a regular mig no gas I was actually going to welder tubes in with the stick Awesome vacation skills. I'm coming back to watch your videos again so I can get a road cage in my Pontiac.

@@davidvonanderseck8649 If you stick weld your cage together, it won't be legal to race in NHRA. You can MIG weld a mild steel cage, but if you make it from chromoly, it has be be TIG welded. If you do MIG weld your cage, I'd recommend using shielding gas. NHRA and some other sanctioning bodies are specific with that sort of thing if you want to race at events/tracks sanctioned by them. Thanks again and good luck with your project!

@@keefershotrodshop wow thank you so much. I did not know that.... I have a big welder, but it's fluxcore I was just going to stick well the thing together ... I'm a pretty good stick welder.... thanks

Thanks! I appreciate you checking the videos out. They are long, but it's hard to boil them down any further and still explain the process. Your Dart sounds like a cool project; Diesel cars are awesome! Glad the videos help and thanks again for watching and for the mentions!

Thank you! I appreciate your compliment and viewership! Thanks.

I'm super glad the video helped! Good luck with your project! Thanks for watching.

Thanks again! That's awesome, you should put a small block ford in it! Get a Dart block and build a big bore 347 and put a single on it, that'd be sweet! Thanks again for checking out my videos.

Very cool! And thank you! Falcons are cool, they are the Ford equivalent to the Chevrolet Nova. You should be able to keep it pretty light! Thanks again.

Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.

@@keefershotrodshop yea I’ll be taking the dash out in a couple hours. Putting a new one in.. I just have to move the wire harness to the new one

I have safety on my mind during every weld I put on this cage. I hope the car doesn't ever have anything bad happen to it, but it's good for the cage to be there if something were to happen. The cage also adds a good amount of rigidity to the car as well, so it's beneficial for the performance of the car also. The cost of a cage like this is somewhere between the price of a good racing transmission and a decent racing engine, just to give a general idea. Thanks for watching!

@@keefershotrodshop Thanks! That's about what I was thinking price wise. You do good work!

@@jeffallen3382 Thank you, I appreciate it!

@@keefershotrodshop you're welcome!

Thanks! sorry it took so long, glad you liked it.

Thank you! They are. I'm building this cage to SFI 25.5 specs (available in print from the SFI foundation), which is a specification for a drag racing roll cage legal to a 7.50 ET or slower in the quarter mile. Confusingly, there are bars like the front crossmember, which is made up of 3 (or sometimes 4) bars, labeled 6A, 6B, and 6C (6C is the center piece that I will install in the next video), but at the same time, both inner frame rail tubes (left and right) are labeled 2A in the specification. Every required bar is named or indexed in the specification, but there are varying degrees of freedom for how they can be installed, and some bars are either required or not required for certain driver positions within the same spec. Additionally, minimum tubing diameter and wall thickness is specified for each tube in the spec., with some bars having different requirements based again off of driver position with respect to the main hoop position (#10). Thanks for watching and commenting!

I'm planning to build some custom 2 1/4" stainless headers for this car. Plan to film the build process and put it on the channel when I do.

Most of it should work except maybe the ducting, but if you have most of your factory components, "Original Air Group" or "Classic Auto Air" sells parts to make the factory stuff work. You would install a new compressor, condenser, lines, and preferably evaporator (for best performance) and you would switch to 134A refrigerant. Thanks for watching and I wish you the best of luck with your project!

Thanks! I'll let him know! Hope everything went great, I forgot to include unplugging the turn signals in the bumper in this video, hope you caught that. Thanks for watching!

Sorry to take so long, I meant to reply earlier. Vintage Air has moved onto their generation V kit now, which is available with or without the compressor and bracketry. Here is the complete kit: vintageair.com/1982-88-oldsmobile-cutlass-with-factory-air-gen-5-magnum-max-surefit-complete-kit/ They also have kits available without the compressor if you already have one included with an aftermarket pulley system or something. Thanks for watching! A company called "Affordable Street Rods" stocks their systems and is where I bought mine. Thanks again!

Thank you, I appreciate it!

It's for the power antenna (the radio has an accessory power wire that triggers this relay if I remember correctly), and it might also power an amplifier optionally. I think the Pink one comes from the radio, and Orange is typically positive 12V on GM stuff. I can't remember what the side of the relay with the green and gray wire is for, possibly also for the stereo or lighting. Thanks for watching!

@@keefershotrodshop thank you

Haha, thanks! Thanks for watching!

Thank you, Glad the video is helpful. I had a friend machine them from a pair of cylindrical ones that come with the Mittler Brother's kit which were intended for a MoPar bearing size application. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Thanks for watching.

Thanks again!

Thanks! I appreciate it and thanks for watching!

I have a lot of projects going on at once, but sometimes I do get to clean up a bit (Check out 2:33 ). As I get projects together and out, I should be able to establish a little more clear space. Thanks for watching!

I get it, I go until all tools are our and all cords are in knots...then I stop and regroup. Your talent is over the top as is the sheer perfection of your work.

@@bobkillion9681 That's the way! haha. Thank you, I appreciate it. Thanks again for watching and chiming in.

I have done a little bit of math in my Chevelle Part 4 video and touch on some in my Part 5 video. I've been wanting to do more, but most people skip that part of the videos and it's hard to explain and boring as well. I might try to put a dedicated video up, though. The way I do everything is to design the center line of each tube using straight lines and hard corners and then calculate the span of each bend using trigonometry, angle, and bend center-line-radius. I figure out how much length the bends occupy (not take-up, that requires material properties and something called the "k factor" of the material; I measure from each bend after I make it), and using the span of the bends, I can figure straight length between bends too. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks! I appreciate it. You can do it! Good luck and thanks again for watching!

I am so impressed by your math skills. The ones that you use to calculate those bend angles. I feel like I’m taking the easy road by using Bend Tech Software. I could not do that math I see on your pages. Also your forethought in deciding where to route the bars. Going through the end of the dash on that 69 is much harder than the 70 which is removable. But the tight roof and windshield angles are very impressive. Thanks

Haha, Thanks! I love El Caminos and especially Caballeros. Enjoy the A/C! Thanks for watching and commenting. Good to hear from a fellow hair farmer!

@@keefershotrodshop have had long hair my whole life. 50 now n I have donated it to locks of love which takes ur hair n they make wigs for kids with illnesses. Hair farmer lol.. We have 3 el caminos and a 82 cutlass. I was ready to install a heat only system from a base model el camino but I wanted atleast one of my old cars to have everything it came with and so my wife would drive it. Great video

Haha, yeah, I hate to throw a bar away just because I bent it the wrong way. It's tough when you know the angle, but have to figure out which way to angle it, and it's almost always upside down and backwards when in the bender. Thanks for tuning in!

It's surprising how much things can move when you start putting heat into them. Thanks for noticing, I try to put a lot of thought and care into everything, but sometimes materials can surprise you. Thanks for watching!

Thanks, I appreciate that. A good, tight fitment helps a ton with avoiding having the tubes move around when they are welded together. I always use a pedal with the welder. Thanks for watching and chiming in!

Thanks, I appreciate you noticing. I definitely like to fit everything tight. Tubes move a lot with even the slightest gap. When the weld cools, it can really load the structure and warp things quickly. Thanks for watching and chiming in!

@@keefershotrodshop you're welcome! I subscribed as well.

@@jeffallen3382 Thank you very much!

Thank you! Sorry to take ages to get this one posted, I have another one filmed and I just need to set aside the time to edit it and post it. Thanks for watching!

@@keefershotrodshop no need to apologise Mate! I really enjoy your videos and you have great skills, and I’m looking to the next one 😎

My experience is with Creo Parametric. CAD software is nearly pointless without CNC equipment to carry out the operations. You can use it for modeling complicated stuff, but without a CNC bender or rotary cutter, I would still have to make the actual parts by hand, and without a 3D scanner, I would still have to measure all parameters manually. I'm hoping to shift into CAD CAM and CNC stuff in the next year or so, not necessarily with tubing, but with other parts I'm wanting to make. I'll be sure to keep everyone posted with that stuff. Thanks for watching!

@keefershotrodshop I have no experience using cad for tube work....but seems modeling wit cad...then using measure tool in cad would be useful...what do I know....for tube work I usually just wing it ...have some scrapped parts at times but I get er done

@@jaythorne5208 It'd probably help, especially if i was really sufficient with it and quick with modeling. There'll always be mistakes and redos, but everyone has their methods for sure. Thanks again for watching and leaving a comment!

It's certainly a complicated tube!

Haha Thanks! Glad it helped.

Is the engine and transmission offset to the passenger side like stock, or centered in the chassis/truck?

@@keefershotrodshop there is no engine and trans in it yet

@@cortezcrawford154 Sorry.. WILL the engine and transmission be offset to the passenger side like stock, or centered in the chassis/truck?

@@keefershotrodshop centered

​@@cortezcrawford154 Alright, I gotya. The first thing I would check, if the truck has an anti roll bar in it, is to see if that anti roll bar is adjusted such that it is loading the suspension to make it lean that way. If it doesn't have an anti roll bar in the truck or if it isn't hooked up, since it's on coilovers, I'd check to see if the spring adjusters on the shocks are set such that one side would sit higher than the other side. With the truck having nothing in it, it should sit pretty close to level with the spring adjusters set evenly side-to-side (maybe a tiny bit lower if the driver side does have a bit more weight). Once everything is in the truck, and it's ready to race, you will want to set the shocks up so that the truck sits level and the suspension will need to be preloaded to force the passenger/right rear tire down a bit more than the driver/left rear with the driver in the car. This is to counteract the reaction of the driveshaft and pinion reacting against the ring gear and axles/wheels/tires trying to force the driver/left side tire down when power is applied. This preload is tuned/adjusted to make the vehicle drive straight on the track under power. With a parallel 4 link, this preload will be done by adjusting the bars (typically tuned with the upper right/passenger bar) and then setting the anti roll bar neutral once adjusted. With ladder bars this preload will be made by adjusting the ladder bars to force the right/passenger rear tire down a little more and setting the anti roll bar neutral once adjusted, but with a triangulated 4 link, 3 link, or some leaf spring suspensions, the anti roll bar is used to establish this preload. Good luck with it, I hope you can figure out why it's doing that. You'll just have to start measuring everything to understand what is going on.

Thanks! I love building housings. The pucks and bar are a kit made by Mittler Brothers. It's a nice kit with pucks for a lot of different bearing sizes. The conical tapered ones are actually a pair of their pucks designed to fit in a mopar center section that I had a friend machine down from cylindrical to conical in shape. I am using 2 more of the pucks, that are included in the kit, in the setup 9 inch 3rd member in-place where the carrier bearings go in order to hold the bar in place. Thanks for watching!

@@keefershotrodshop thanks for the reply. I’ll look into that thanks, shipping to Australia will be the issue 😂 Keep up the cool videos 👍

@@benjamincrouch583 No problem, it's a heavy kit, and might cost a bit to get over there. I'll endeavor to keep the videos coming, I have started editing my next one. Good luck getting an alignment jig and thanks again for watching!

That's really cool! Thanks for checking out the video and sharing that awesome coincidence! I was down in Orlando at the drag strip last month for Sick Week. It's a small world! I love Fairmonts and 70's GM trucks a lot, the 79's are always cool to see with the unique headlight bezel.

@@keefershotrodshop I'm moving back to Titusville in November, next time your down there give me shout. Titusville is just 25 miles from Drag Strip, strait down Highway 50.

@@TheREALOC1972 Cool!

Thanks, I just like to take my time and plan everything as well as I can. I appreciate the compliment and thanks for watching!

Thanks! Will do. I'll be putting more up on the Chevelle build in the next few weeks. Thanks for watching!

Thanks, glad it helped. I'm going to need those! Thanks for watching

Thanks! Glad it helped.

Thank you! It's important that the harnesses are angled and positioned properly. The seat can be moved in relation to the harness bar if necessary, but it's nice to be able to position those tubes to where they need to be with the driver positioned where he/she wants to be in the car. The Kirkey seats are simple and light, which makes them popular, but something like a Racetech containment seat can add safety for more serious setups at additional cost and are a little trickier to fit. Thanks again for watching!

More to come on the Chevelle soon!

Thanks! Thanks for watching, John!

Thank you! It takes a lot of planning for sure! Thanks for watching.

@@keefershotrodshop I just finished up my 1st cage and it was 8.50 certified last weekend.

@@Moparmaga-1 Very cool! Good job!

'67 Novas are awesome! Unfortunately I have no way of building and shipping anything like a full floor structure for that car at this time. If you plan to do a tube front (Are you referring to a strut-type front end, or perhaps you mean one that bolts on like factory?), and a 4 link with big slicks, you, in essence, would have a full tube chassis car. A floor structure like the one in the video is for cars (generally) going quicker than an 8.50 ET in the quarter mile. If you have an appropriate roll cage to go quicker than an 8.50 ET, the car will be required to have a floor structure similar to this. If you only intend to run an 8.50 ET or slower, the floor structure can be of a more simple design in some ways, but some kind of strong connection between your front and rear frame rails/structures is highly recommended. A structure like a 25.5 or 25.3 floor structure would be a great choice for any build, or, for something slower than an 8.50, simple rectangular or round tube subframe connector type tubes would suffice. What kind of racing and/or ET are you looking to do/achieve? Thanks for watching!