Chevelle 25.5 Roll Cage Build! The Ghost. Part 2. A-Pillar Roof Bars. Windshield Bar Dash Bend Notch
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ย. 2024
- In this one, I show you progress on the Ghost! The 1968 Chevelle gets a pair of tight A-Pillar/Roof bars as well as an upper Windshield Bar. I also remove parts of the dash and cut through the floor to gain clearance for installing the tubes.
This build is looking good! I have started on the funny car bars since filming this video, stay tuned for part III!
Check out my dad's channel, Craig Keefer.
He does the music in my videos and has some cool projects of his own!
Thanks for watching, liking, and subscribing.
Feel free to leave a comment!
Drag Racing 25.5 SFI Roll Cage TIG welding weld Fabrication A Body 1968 1969 68 69 Chevrolet Chevy Chevelle Classic Car Custom 4130 Chromoly J.D. Squared tube bending bender Miller Welders
It's coming together nicely! Excellent craftmanship.
Thank you! I appreciate it.
Fantastic work! Please consider making a video on precisely figuring angles, fitment, and the math involved. It would be very helpful. Really enjoy watching your videos.
I am considering it and I think I will make one soon. I include some of that stuff throughout my videos, but I probably will do a dedicated video soon. Thanks for watching!
Love the attention to detail and quality of work. Most shops wouldn't spend the time thinking through all of the little details. I hope the owner of the car appreciates what he's getting!
Thank you! He's liking it. I just like to make sure I plan everything out and make the most out of the raw material. Thanks again!
Sweet work, very impressive
Thanks again!
Wonderful job. After doing this on a 70 Nova in 120 wall with a mig I'm thankful we didnt try this with Chromoly and a tig. Your fitment is inspiring
Thank you! Welding a roll cage together in a car is certainly a chore. I think that MIG welding a mild steel roll cage is a great way to go; nice weld filet and the metal isn't as brittle as Chromoly. Also, thanks regarding the fitment, it takes a lot of math/planning to get the notches really tight, and typically a little fine-tuning, but it really helps things from moving around excessively when they are welded, glad I could inspire you! Thanks for watching.
Great job your math skills are awesome keep up the great work
Thanks! Will do!
Impressed with your attention to detail, nice job. So many people just think a welder can fill gaps as large as the Grand Canyon... I cringe when I see them doing a roll cage with Harbor Freight welders & no clue on getting a perfect fit.
Thanks, I appreciate you noticing. I definitely like to fit everything tight. Tubes move a lot with even the slightest gap. When the weld cools, it can really load the structure and warp things quickly. Thanks for watching and chiming in!
@@keefershotrodshop you're welcome! I subscribed as well.
@@jeffallen3382 Thank you very much!
Like always very nice work sir
Thank you, I appreciate it!
I’m with you. That is SWEET! You did an amazing job. I hope I can get close to what you did here.
Thanks! I appreciate it. You can do it! Good luck and thanks again for watching!
I am so impressed by your math skills. The ones that you use to calculate those bend angles. I feel like I’m taking the easy road by using Bend Tech Software. I could not do that math I see on your pages.
Also your forethought in deciding where to route the bars. Going through the end of the dash on that 69 is much harder than the 70 which is removable. But the tight roof and windshield angles are very impressive.
Thanks
Man you're good!
Thanks, I just like to take my time and plan everything as well as I can. I appreciate the compliment and thanks for watching!
I am a bit speechless here. I have seen people fit up really tight cages a of course, but it's almost always at least designed in computer (aka BendTech) that spits out a bend cheat sheet, or fully computer designed then CNC laser notched and bent.
I have never seen anyone measure up a bar as complex as those A pillar bars, draw it out on paper, then GO TO A DIFFERENT SHOP and bend it with with no car to reference, NOTCH it, then drive back to another shop and drop the piece in with some minor tweaks. This is amazing.
I would LOVE to see a series of videos where you show your process for figuring out just how to calculate a 4+ bend piece, especially with the notch correct.
Regardless, PLEASE keep making videos. I will watch everyone of them.
Thank you! Fortunately my shop is right next to the one that the Chevelle is in (Same complex), so it's just a short walk, but eventually I do plan to show more about how I figure everything out. I have not had posting and editing videos as a top priority for the last few months, but I do plan to post soon. I will be going over a little math in the next video and plan to do more in the future. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@keefershotrodshopI used to build chassis' and cages way back in the day, and I couldn't imagine the constant in-and-out of "fabricator mode" to "video maker" and how much they get in the way of each other.
Anyways, please keep posting. Your videos are the most authentic look at killer fab I have ever seen. I'd love a video on how you got to be so good at what you do.
@@tonydew Thanks again, It is a lot of work doing both, I definitely spend a lot of time editing video. I appreciate it, and I will keep it up as much as I can. Thanks
We're getting ready to build our own 25.3 cage. These videos are really helpful. Lots of create ideas!
Awesome! Glad the videos are helpful! The Nova I'm building is 25.3 and I'm planning to do a 25.3 cage in an upcoming project after I complete this Chevelle cage. Thanks for watching!
Great Job , Awesome Fabrication definitely enjoy the detail inthe Video
Glad you like the video! Thanks for chiming in! It's an awesome project.
WOW
Something I've done in the past is replace the 1/4" pilot bit with a long length of 1/4" rod to get the hole profile correct. 2cents.
That's a good tip. I have a rounded off 1/4" pilot bit that I use sometimes. Thanks for watching!
Killer content!! I watch the videos and love them. You’ll get more and more people to this channel!! Maybe go more in depth with the math with bending, notching and exc in one video?
Thank you! I appreciate it! I probably will do something like that soon. I put some basic math stuff in the Chevelle Roof Bar video, but do plan to put more up later. Maybe the next time I need to build a main hoop, I'll do a video covering everything. Thanks again for watching and leaving a comment!
The passenger side on 67 has been a real pain.
They're tricky!
Cool , another car called the Ghost, at least it's not another Nova called Novacaine.
Just a thought. Have you ever thought of running A-pillar through the frame and welding from the bottom. You would have to cut the channel in the frame for access.
I've read about someone on an old forum doing that before, and I saw how you did yours, but the frame is boxed and if I poked the tube out of the bottom, I'd have to close the bottom up somehow so it didn't get dirt and stuff in it.
@keefershotrodshop From watching you, I have decided to cut out all my old roll bar and start over. I hope I can get a third of the quality you put out.
@@randywiddis That's drastic! But regardless of what you do, I hope it works out nicely! Your dash is really cool!
@@keefershotrodshop thanks..
@@randywiddis Just saw your short cutting the cage out! I know you'll do an awesome job with the new one! Good luck and I hope that hand heals up quickly!
Want to say I love all the detail and information you put in the videos, definitely learn from them, but one thing I would offer advice back would be to maybe cut video times way down, do separate 15-20 min videos at a time so you don’t lose the viewer. Other then that keep it up dude
Thank you! I appreciate it! I also appreciate the input! When I first set out doing youtube, my original intention was to do videos between 15 and 20 minutes long, but i quickly realized that in order to cover what I want to cover, the videos were turning out to be around an hour long. At the time, that hour long format seemed to be popular, Vice Grip Garage and a bunch of others were getting good viewership with that length format, and interestingly enough, my hour long videos got better viewership than some shorter ones (could have been subject matter, though). That being said, I usually edit my raw footage down to about a quarter or third of original run time (including speeding some parts up for timelapses; sometimes I film timelapses in real time, sometimes I use the feature on my camera). Each episode requires an introduction and ending, which is no big deal to make, but when I'm working on the car it's hard to know how long the final edited videos run time will be at any given time, so it cut the project into appropriate/specific sections and film and edit those into episodes. Considering all of that, moving forward I might be able to arrange the work into shorter sections that are still appropriate and possibly keep it a little "fresher" and not as long. Thanks again for the advice and viewership! Chevelle Part 3 should be up this week, unfortunately it'll be a long one, but I think I could sectionalize further work into shorter videos going forward from that. Thanks again.
Others: comment on here if you want shorter videos or like hour-long format.
Yea I get that man, a simple explanation takes up 5-10 mins of my videos sometimes, that is interesting though that the longer ones are doing better for you, but if it works and ain’t broke don’t fix it lol keep up the good work man💪🏽
@@boostedS10 Yeah, It certainly adds up quickly! Explanations can be surprisingly long, haha. I will endeavor to keep it up, and I think I'll have some shorter / less strenuous videos coming up after Part 3 of the Chevelle Cage. Thanks again!
You could try crush nuts or like I call them " squishy nuts " to put that dash back. I have used them in my dash and console.
Like a nutsert? The ones you crimp in place?
@@keefershotrodshop that's it...
@@keefershotrodshop th-cam.com/users/shortsM9sZCM-3Lco?si=IzZBjgVkP_MmRemR
@@randywiddis The owner of the car actually mentioned possibly using some of those for the job. We'll see, might do something like that, or otherwise, I'll just weld it all up.
Where might a fella find a good set of hole saws and in 1 5/8.
Lenox makes the roundest hole saws. I get them from Lowe's
Do the a pillar bars need to connect from the main hoop to the frame per sfi or can you have a halo bar from the main hoop around doubling as a upper windshield bar and thus having shorter a pillar bars
Either way is fine per SFI. I prefer making the roof and A pillar bars continuous, but making a roof halo with A pillar bars that connect the halo to the floor structure is fine too. You can even interrupt the A pillar bars with the lower windshield/dash bar as long as the lower windshield/dash bar is made of at least 1 1/2" .065 tubing. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@keefershotrodshop awesome man I really appreciate the info that helps me out tremendously. I just need to purchase the sfi book and that will answer my silly questions. Thanks so much for the quick descriptive response I really appreciate it. Love the series you have for the 25.5 as I am a “hobbyist” fabricator working on my own 25.5 Monte Carlo. Thanks for the videos man !! Also was looking to get some more content and what is required for 25.5 as far as the floor structure goes.
@@Dingnang7409 No problem! The SFI books are kind of vague, but they establish pretty much all of the rules. Cool! I have an 86 Monte body that I might do a 25.5 chassis in one day. The floor depends on what kind of car you are working on and how much of the stock structure is still in it. For an A body or G body, if you have stock floor and firewall, you pretty much just need the 2a inner frame rails, a #1 rear cross bar, a #9 seat cross member, and 6a, 6b, and 6c front cross bars. I'll be covering more of that as I put more up on the Chevelle Project. When you start eliminating stock floor and firewall, etc., you get into having to add floor diagonals and an X in the center. Thanks for watching!
@@keefershotrodshop thanks for all the info man
Coming from someone thats good enough at doing just about any I need to do from most any kind of house related repairs to auto body & repair, I mean I built a couple of turbo cars nothing special. Trying to build a roll cage even having more then the bare minimum JD2 bender, off name notcher, grinders, band saw and I’ve fucking tried getting it done & after 400$ in tube & after a bunch of wasted shit I had a shit ass main hoop and a shit ass A-pillar bar. I don’t get how a few of these fucking “1st” timers get away with “1st” timing s roll cage & it turning out decent. Da fuck gives bro!!
I've messed up plenty of tubing. It definitely happens. The driver side A-pillar bar actually took 2 tries on this car because I didn't like the way the first one fit (video was too long to include it), but it takes a LOT of measuring (distances and angles) to properly plan out a bar, then it must be very carefully bent and cut. I measure everything in multiple ways to double (or triple) verify everything is in the right place and the right length, etc. Also, a piece of tubing bent not how you want it is an incredibly valuable tool, just keep track of all of your measurements and leave nothing to guessing and if you don't like it, measure the difference and bend the new one to perfection. It's a very stressful and taxing exercise, you're not alone in that respect. I wish you the best of luck going forward and hope you end up with a nice cage. Thanks for watching, you can do it!
@@keefershotrodshop I appreciate ya man I didn’t mean any offense or insult by any means I was just in the middle of a tantrum throwing shit around, your video just happen to have been playing at the moment and it just added gas to an already hot fire. Coming from some dipshit trying to learn how to do this freaking shit you may consider making a video on all these ways you’ve figured out by doing it wrong, that’s the shit nobody ever shows is the failed bends the hacks tricks learned & the things that’s helped further your success. Thanks again
@@keefershotrodshop i guess the bigger parts I don’t understand is taking an angle gauge & tape measure seemingly doing the same things within reason & taking all these pieces of information that one dumb shot like myself is able to get & either applying them to a bender or paper whatever to get it into a bent piece of tube. That’s really a big part if I had to guess, it’s the actual measuring parts and the actual bending parts that everyone glides over.
@@KarKamp I plan to make a video about all of that stuff eventually, but it's just a really boring subject. Hopefully I will get one together soon that's not too boring and gets the point across. I brush on some of that stuff in my earlier videos, but hopefully I can go in-depth and cover everything important when I make that video.