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Chevelle 25.5 Cage Build! The Ghost. Part 3. FUNNY CAR BARS! Roof Gussets, MISTAKES! Director's Cut.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ย. 2024
- In this MEGA EPISODE, I install SFI 25.5 Funny Car Bars and Roof Gussets in The Ghost! I make some tricky tubes and some mistakes too! Everything tuned out really nice and slick, so check this video out! It's long, but watch it in parts!
I'm really happy with how this cage is going! Sorry to take so long on this episode, but it was a lot of work! (And editing! Raw footage was over 7 hours!)
Check out my dad's channel, Craig Keefer.
He does the music in my videos and has some cool projects of his own!
Thanks for watching, liking, and subscribing.
Feel free to leave a comment!
Drag Racing 25.5 SFI Roll Cage TIG welding weld Fabrication A Body 1968 1969 68 69 Chevrolet Chevy Chevelle Classic Car Custom 4130 Chromoly J.D. Squared tube bending bender Miller Welders Funny Car Cage
thanks for another great video
Thanks for watching!
Awesome content! Love the explanations and attention to detail!
We need some "Alright, cool" T-shirts!
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoy it and appreciate the detail. That's a hilarious idea! I love it! Might have to do that. Thanks for checking out the video!
Bro, not so patiently waiting for another vid.
@@chevells1 I'm ging to try to get some up soon, sorry to drag on so long, been concentrating on car stuff and other random stuff. Thanks again for watching!
Someone on a fab group recommended you for chassis build and im not disappointed. Keep up the work. Wish we had local suppliers for chromoly close to me so i could build my cage. Awesome video
Thank you! I appreciate it. Shipping tubing is possible via truck freight, but it's pretty expensive. Sometimes you can find a local metal supplier who can order chromoly. Thanks again for watching, and good luck with your project!
Amazing talent, Definitely not easy to weld in such tight spaces. Great attention to detail the guy who owns this car is gonna be Happy 😂
Thanks, Tom! I hope he will be! haha
Merry Christmas
Thanks you! Merry Christmas to you too! I hope you had a great one.
New subscriber here. Amazing work you are doing! 👍
Thank you! I appreciate it. Thanks for checking out my channel.
I found that angle finder tool... it's on order..😊
Kool! They're handy for sure!
It makes me nervous watching you only tape the tubes in place. They are like a house of cards...😂
haha, that green tape is some pretty dang good stuff! Sometimes if I have to leave them taped for over a week they will eventually fall apart, but the tight notches and keeping them clean (not oily) helps them stay together pretty well haha. Good to hear from you again! Happy New Year!
@keefershotrodshop Happy New Year yourself bud.. When are you doing the back down bars on the Chevelle?
@@randywiddis They are already in. I ran out of memory to film them, but I quickly went over them in the first video I think it was.
@@keefershotrodshop oh...ok
Amazing video! And by the way, Happy anniversary of your Channel!
Thanks! It's awesome to think that's it's been a whole year!!
Nice work, I wish I could afford it, I have you do mine
Thank you! It is a lot of work, but this one is kinda complicated because of the curved helmet bars. You can keep a 25.5 pretty simple, but it's sure as heck a lot more bars than an 8.50 cage! Thanks for checking out the video!
Thanks for settings. I need the help.
No problem, exact amperage comes down to personal preference and technique. Typically, you can weld moving faster with higher amperage which actually keeps the metal cooler. Chromoly does not weld well at all when it's hot. I think the alloying elements start to float out and it turns into a dull porous disaster when it's overheated. It helps to move along pretty quickly. Chromoly tubing tends to be very thin for racecar/aero specs, so sometimes you can avoid burning through with lower amperage, but if it's too low you will dwell in one area for too long to melt the metal and overheat it, which is bad. I'd recommend going to a 3/32" tungsten for this stuff (always very clean and sharp) and definitely a gas lens. You can use a smaller cup than my #12 too for tight spots, I'm just used to the #12 and have a bunch of them. Good luck welding and thanks for watching!
I'm glad you shortened that brace to line up to the down bar. That was bugging me... lol. What is the name of that angle tool? You do amazing work.
Thanks! haha, yeah it definitely needed to line up. That tool's called a protractor or "angle finder", you can find them online pretty easily, and they might have them at hardware stores, but probably have them at art/craft stores. Thanks again! I appreciate it! And thanks again for watching!
Hey man how do I get in touch with about maybe some chassis work on my car?
Where are you located, Will you do the same cage in my 94 camaro
New vid
Finally, right!? Sorry to take so long, hope you enjoy it! Thanks for watching!
Hey Keefer. I have roof bars running through the dashboard to the floor. The bars used to be in the center of the holes of the dash on each side but after jacking the tubed chassis car up the bars that go through the dash board are not in the center but instead is touching the dashboard now. Is this supposed to happen? Do I need to trim hole wider so the cage doesn't hit dAsh
Hi Crawford, it depends on exactly what you mean by jacking the car up. Do you mean lifting the car to work under it? Or do you mean adjusting the suspension to sit higher? Is the dash plastic or metal? If you built the chassis in the car, then put the car down on it's own wheels/tires and the bars settled and moved a bit, that can be alright/normal if they didn't move a lot. Regardless, if the dash is metal, you can braze the tubing to the dash or even weld it to tie it all together depending on preference, but if it's a plastic/composite dash like in a fox body or G body or late model F body or something, the tubes being against the dash might squeak, or possibly crack the dash if the bars are really hard against the dash or if the car moves around /deforms a lot. I wish I could help you more, but I just don't know the entire situation. Is it possible that your car has a stock front end and hasn't been reinforced with front down bars going from the dash bar or A-pillar bars to the front frame rails? Stock front ends can move a lot depending on how they are suspended. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@keefershotrodshop it is a 25.2 chassis car back halved. I't does have the bars going from front frame rails to the main bars coming from roof to floor running through dash. The dash Is fiberglass and can be taken off.
I just realized that when I first got truck from chassis shop everything fit perfectly now it still fits perfectly it's just a lil pushed forward so the dash has a lil pressure on it from bars
Fyi. I lifted the car on 4 jacks to work on it then set it back down when I noticed this slight change
@@cortezcrawford154 Okay, I follow you, it sounds like the front just has a little bit of give in it. As long as it has a decent dash bar and all of the welds are complete and look good, it should be alright. The front end of cars can definitely hang down when on jack stands, especially if the jack stands are more under the dash area than the front of the frame. Sometimes you can tell if you're working on the steering shaft/column. it'll slide or push quite a bit on stands vs. on wheels/tires. I'm a bit surprised that your 25.2 car moved that much. I guess just keep an eye on it to make sure something hasn't cracked or bent. If it gets worse, it might be an issue. Good luck with it!
You are calling out tubing numbers, where can I get plans. Everything I can see is only the picture.
Hi, you have to call SFI and order the book for the cert/specs you want to build. sfifoundation.com/specifications-participating-manufacturers/
Thanks for watching!