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Nor I! But look how long it took for Formula Shell in the 80s before a problem was acknowledged. This has been a issue with Esso for about a year and a half at least, likely starting at the ethanol mandate, but not being able to test further afield meant I don't know how widespread it was.

​​@@boilerhousegarage Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately the reality that your tests revealed led to "lack of trust" in this particular fuel. I tested this fuel some times ago and looking at your tests I can confidently say that my butt dyno wasn't wrong

@@andreasduzariev2482 Sure! You can type "4EE2 engine pdf" into Google and you'll see a few various technical manuals to download. Some will be Vauxhall/Opel, Isuzu, Honda, but they're all the same engine other than the inlet and ecu components.

@@parthosarker1 No, but I know proper SHO.

@@boilerhousegarage I can see here that your videos are not SEO complete. I can help you if you want ? How to do SEO correctly .

Getting shadowbanned by TH-cam hasn't helped.

@@boilerhousegarage You can get free tips from me if you want.

@@Abszurdista-fatalista Excellent question and not layman at all, given most people won't know what these are. There isn't any ETBE present in the fuels from Shell, Esso and BP in the UK, as per their specification documents and, I assume, new complications when it comes to duty on what is classed as renewable/enviro-fuel additive. Apparently, only 1 of the 8 refineries in the UK uses a >1% amount of MTBE and TAME ethers as additives to their base fuels, the former having stricter controls for environmental regulations. If present in an ethanol separation test, fuel ethers would remain in with the petrol as the chemical composition has changed by using a catalyst (likely phosphoric acid, which is used to convert it the other way) and will not share the properties of the ethanol it's partly made from, especially without heat and the catalyst present. Also octane and energy content is mutually exclusive. However you're correct that ether additives to the remaining not quite "pure" base petrol would affect an octane test as they are octane boosters also, but this is a given as all petrol used as a motor fuel will have to have several additives to change its properties from what is freshly distilled from petroleum-pretty much essential for use in combustion engines for over a century. Of course the tests I do are limited to the simple examination of the addition and potential effects of pure bioethanol. The octane results (trying to determine how much octane the ethanol adds or loses when removing it) would be affected, but this is also the case of all additives that remain in the petrol.

​@@boilerhousegarage Thank you for your thorough answer. Very interesting stuff. I drive a Toyota hybrid with a 14:1 compression ratio Atkinson-cycle ICE in it. It appears to be quite sensitive in regards to fuel quality. While the overall fuel economy is great, the fluctuations I've observed, depending on the fuel, are to say the least - extraordinary. Changes in my driving habits don't explain it. Still trying to find that very fuel that gives me the best fuel economy. I'd like to ask you for your opinion on a snippet of info I've picked up some time ago somewhere: Is it possible that *efficiency-wise* , the combination of high octane and high compression can outperform low octane (and thus higher energy content) and low compression?

@@Abszurdista-fatalista Someone driving a hybrid commented on another of my videos, mentioned he has to run it on 97+, as it makes the engine start quite noticeable when it's takes over from the electric drive at 25mph or heavier acceleration. Generally speaking, having any ethanol present will ruin your best potential MPG, even if it's 2.5% like the cheaper supers or the ones up North, so it's always worth paying that bit more to save the mileage (on my ST it's actually cheaper to use the more expensive fuel because of this, but I've yet to test it in a more economical car). A rude German was trying to claim that I was getting better MPG on 99RON fuel because the ST is setup for it, but personally I think the ethanol has a far greater impact on fuel consumption that octane/timing/compression. As for high octane and high compression being more efficient, absolutely yes. It's not actually higher energy content, but how well that energy is used (which is what "efficiency" is after all). Also the Toyota Atkinson cycle is only simulated; it's still equal length strokes as per a conventional Otto cycle, but the intake valves are left open via the VVT system so the compression stroke doesn't actually start compressing until the piston is a part way up (the actual Atkinson cycles, the piston physically doesn't move down as far in the cylinder during induction). All modern cars with an ECU controlled spark can be remapped to run on 99 octane fuel permanently, which does achieve both higher power output and fuel economy as a result (rarely seen due to how people drive when they have more horsepower), however this is quite a simplistic summary, and just using higher octane fuel in a car with an already high compression ratio won't be able to utilise this to the same level. Ultimately, using the highest octane fuel with zero ethanol will be your best chance at getting the highest fuel efficiency in anything.

@@boilerhousegarage Thanks again for answering. That I have noticed too: The engine starts immediately on high octane fuel when leaving EV-mode. No delay whatsoever, it's like flicking a switch. I actually know which comment you are referring to, as I have watched almost all of your petrol-related videos and have looked at some comments. I also assume, that the difference is more due to the presence of ethanol.

Yes, they make a lot of people say they need an engine service (like it's due for an oil change) rather than throw a proper indication that you have an error code. My ST was going into limp mode and even then the EML light was off! Boost leak tests are a good idea. Most decent engine tuners will do one prior to any mapping or other work.

@@jokebre Even Ford's advice contradicts itself, so I think it's best ignored since many people say that the gearchange is notchy from new all adds up to it not having the right capacity in the first place.

@@adogmcdizzle Thanks for the comment and compliment! Plenty more to come.. 👍

@@ds1868 Yes, I only ever use the best fuels I can get (unless it's for testing) as at least we can thank ethanol for one thing and that's making the price difference closer because of the fuel economy saving.. My next V-Power test is from a station on the M25, so will be closer to you than my normal outlets. Although we seem to be doing okay in the South and Midlands for super unleaded.

​@boilerhousegarage yes much closer to me, will look forward to that one!

Hi Ricardo! I hope it was a good trip over all. Did you take your BMW? If so, I bet it was fun at all the tolls with a right-hand drive car! Unless you had one of those scannable window stickers of course. Yes, there's one ethanol plant in (I think) Norfolk, making it from sugar beet, but most is made from grapes imported from Europe. Many Germans found theirs to be quite a bit under the 10% also, despite them falling for all the enviro-nonsense. I guess the Southeast of Europe have a lot more farmland and alcohol distilleries, even prior to any EU fuel mandates.

Erm … you mean highwayman Dick Turpin. Whittington was the first Lord Mayor of London!!

@@sandpiperuk Not many people know that Dick Whittington's cat moonlighted as a Highwayman.

Cheers, Sam 👍Hope you're well! I planned to pop down to see you for an MOT and service, but forgot and it ran out last week 😆whoops!

@@grahamsmith5768 Yes, and if your timing is set to the original specs then it's for 98+ octane 4-star leaded. A lot of the unleaded "conversions" back in the day meant having hardened exhaust valve seats, but the timing had to be retarded by 5° or so to use 95-at the cost of horsepower!

@@boilerhousegarage I'm always adjusting the ignition timing. The best way I found is listening by ear. Any pinking noises, etc, I adjust. The timing light is of no good. I need high octane fuel. When engine gets hot she will cough and splatter, cunk out. And I know the culprit is E petrols. The petrol engine was invented to run on pure fossil fuel. I know of a few classic car owners having trouble too. Todays petrol is man made crap.

@@grahamsmith5768 Agreed! Where in the country are you? Most of the Super Unleaded "E5s" are still ethanol-free, but not in certain areas. I'm regularly testing the various brands for octane, ethanol and I'm also working on a 2-year experiment to show how long petrol really last versus the ethanol-blended crap.

@@boilerhousegarage I'm a Cornish man here in Cornwall. I travelled 10- ISH miles to a shell station to try out v power. I'll drain out the E10 crap and let you know about shell's v power.

@@grahamsmith5768 Sadly all of Cornwall's petrol does contain ethanol due to the distribution network, but usually 2% or less in the top brands. Still 2% too much. You can extract the ethanol (if you're not already) using something like a demijohn. You pour water through it, then it sinks to the bottom, pulling out all the ethanol and then drain the water out leaving the petrol which sits on top. The less ethanol, the less water you need and it's an easier process.

Thanks for the comment. Yes, the same split on mine about a year ago. I did film the replacement as did a few other things while I was at it, but never uploaded it. I ordered the wrong hose as the clip thing that goes to the expansion tank return was different.

Sorry, missed this comment.. I hope it went well. Do the MK8s use the same gearbox? Ravenol is good and they offer single grade SAE 70, 75 and multigrade 75w80.. I noticed that most people go for multi, even if the single is original spec/recommended.

@@boilerhousegarage not done it yet. I heard it's the same B6 or 6B gearbox but with different ratios for better acceleration.

It was hot (or at least was driven within a couple of hours) when I did it, although I don't think it matters too much as it'll be negligible on how much oil will stick to the bottom of the case or is still coating the gears.. Thanks! It sounds like a common issue that we'll have to just live with.

@@boilerhousegarage ok thx for your answer. So since it's monograde, it's as fluid cold and hot ?

@@Kamui.. Yes, the viscosity doesn't change, however the metal components expand, so you'd still normally do lubricant changes at operating temperature. Modern oils tend to have additives that will make it cling to components when they're cold (in order to prevent wear on start-up).

@@boilerhousegarage hey, just did the gearbox oil change and wanted to give you a feedback : first I put around 1.95l inside, and it worked as good / as bad as previously. But I read that the gearbox manufacturer said to put 2.3 2.4l in. Looks like Ford underfilled them when new... I put around 2.3l 2.4l inside, it means filling it up until it overflows. Then drove some kilometers : the gear never passed so good since ever. Better then when new ! Of course it's only for the manual gearbox

@@Kamui.. Oh really, that's awesome! It is unusual to not have the oil fill level for gearboxes and diffs at the fill hole itself, so just thought it was a modern car thing. I'm going to have to try topping mine up to that level then, as the gear change is better but I still do get where it won't select 1st from a neutral standstill. Thanks for sharing the update; I might have to do some experimenting.

That's way more original than "first."

I'm 90% sure Esso's additives package for their "Supreme 99" was formulated for a national expectation for 2-3% ethanol (which in itself is an octane booster). So the areas that didn't have ethanol in fell quite short of the 99RON it should have been. However I've more recently retested the areas that were 93RON and they too show consistent 100+ octane.

So it only grinds during the engine running and when you're driving, but not if the engine is idling and the grinding is a constant pitch no matter how fast the vehicle is travelling or engine is revving. Normally grinds are brake, wheel bearing, drive shaft related but they'll change pitch and get faster/louder as you travel or clutch release bearing, but you'll hear that at idle more than anything. A constant pitch would be from something that moves at roughly the same speed regardless of the car's/van's movement so could be fuel or injector pumps, heater fan, electric radiator fan. Have you tried to hear if it's coming from the engine bay or rear of the vehicle?

@@boilerhousegarage it seems to come from the front of the vehicle and it is a constant pitch doesn't get any louder or less thank you for your reply

It also stops when you put the clutch in to change gear

@@Bengarl That's almost certainly a clutch throw-out bearing, also called release or thrust bearing. It would effectively mean having a full clutch kit replacement, as the work involved to take the bell housing off and replace the bearing, you may as well have a new clutch cover and plate too. However it will at least still function for ages and just be noisy, so you don't need to get it done with any urgency if the clutch itself is still engaging.

@@boilerhousegarage thanks for your reply Al need to certainly look at that it doesn't bother me the noise just didn't want to run around in it incase it was going cause serious damage a will need to look at getting it fixed soon thanks for your advice appreciated it's a great wee van 😀.

You're welcome! I'm glad I got to film this now as a lot of people seem to run these vans. Hope it goes well and doesn't piss down with rain.

@@wiseghost1 Thanks for the comment, I'm glad it helped! It took me a while to figure out the little boot latch in them, but it will open with a jump starter connected to the fuse box terminal, but not everyone has one. 👍

I think it's an MOT fail from a certain year of car, so you might not have any choice eventually. However, I personally wouldn't bother as it's an unnecessary expense and we managed for a century checking our own pressures manually; it's not like it's harming the car. What car is it? Are you sure it uses batteries in the valves as some earlier systems used the ABS to measure it? At least wait until you need new tyres anyway. They tend to replace the whole TPMS valve and have to be calibrated with a special handheld machine.

Just looked it up and the TPMS system should only be considered by an MOT tester if the car was registered after 1st January 2012.

@boilerhousegarage it's A 2014 capture tce 0.9 and did fail not because of pressure light because it's warning light my dad's guy has changed valves new tyres he's fixed now and passed not but for how long on a forum said something about abs sensor and valves sensor penny size batteries Have life of ten years , and the light would come on every day

@boilerhousegarage he fixed it

Nice! 👍 I use that stuff on everything.

@@stevec.2702 Thanks! Yes, keep us posted on what you find and also what part of the country you're in, as not all of the supers are ethanol free and it does have significant impact on the difference between the two types.

Awesome, thanks for sharing! Yes, it's nowhere near the product that Momentum is; lower octane, contains ethanol and meets a different quality standard. Although it won't be doing any "harm" of course, even on a classic if it's not going to be sat with it in there.

@@peterpipe9015 Thanks, yes it would have. Do you know what percentage by any chance?

@@boilerhousegarage hi I have been removing the ethanol so can run garden machinary , sick of having problems after winter storage . Ethanol level seems to be about 4 percent

@@peterpipe9015 It must be a right pain when you can't buy any locally with no ethanol. Thanks.

@@boilerhousegarage yeah m8 I can get aspen locally but the price is ridiculous

Some shows are disappointing; even this one is stupidly open at 5pm in the week, so most people are just leaving work, then if you get there late, people start to leave by 7pm. And sometimes a fat man pushes in front of you at the bar!

When I got to mine it was late like the same time and most people where leaving as well

@@TheDude50447 Nope, that's not true at all. Ethanol has less than half the calorific value of petrol, so logically, 6% will increase fuel consumption by at least 3% (and usually more due to several other factors), else where does the energy come from with such a deficit? Further real-world tests I've conducted on blends up to 85% ethanol, concluded with ethanol only providing a third of the mileage achievable from petrol with zero ethanol. In general terms, E6 will increase fuel consumption by around 9%, which is consistent with the results I show at the end of this playlist using 0%, 5%, 6% and 7%. When governments and fuel companies advertise the ethanol will only make a small difference, they're lying-which shouldn't be surprising.

@@boilerhousegarage Ive watched several videos on that and youre the only one with those numbers. Every other channel like "Engineering explained" or just websites on the topic say that Ethanol got 67% of the energy content of regular petrol. Being interested in the topic myself and E10 fuel being available since 2011 here in germany Ive driven hundreds of thousands of kilometres with tanks full of E5 and E10 which have both been available side by side. The difference is so minimal that neither the board computer nor me at the pump can actually make out any difference that isnt within margin of error due to traffic jams and so on. Same goes for similiar tests Ive seen on german channels like asphalt art which do hypermiling and long range fuel economy testing. In their tests the Aral Ultimate 102 fuel actually achieved worse mileage over their long range testing in cases compared to regular E5 in cases. Ive used Aral Ultimate myself a few times and also havent noticed any difference. Im absolutely certain that there is something else going on there. A quick google search on the Fiesta ST says that the engine is actually setup for 98 Ron or premium/Super plus fuel. Its highly likely that your engine retards the ignition timing for Ron 95 E10 leading to significantly worse thermal efficiency than what it is setup for. Im pretty much certain about that.

​​@@TheDude50447 The difference is minimal because E5 and E10 is just a label to mean "up to." It doesn't necessarily mean the fuel is 5 or 10% respectively. Again, the difference in minimal on my tests also between E5 and E10 as they're 5-7% and I'm sure even 10% will not be massively different. Yes, the octane potential in the ethanol free may have made the ST more efficient. I should perhaps do a mileage test on 99 Octane E2.5 to confirm the timing is making significant difference in efficiency, but my other tests have been on a flex fuel car, getting 11mpg on E85 85%, 30mpg on "E10" 5% and 35mpg on "E5" 0%. I don't care what skinny, EV wanker Engineering Explained has to say, petrol has 10200kcal/gram and bioethanol had 5000kcal/gram (10.29303/jppipa.v9i9.4716) I do not commit the begging-the-question fallacy by accepting data from biased sources as fact. Ethanol has less than half the energy of petrol, claims to the contrary are a lie.

@@boilerhousegarage Maybe you could link me the source to your claims on ethanol? Anyway you cant test Ron 95 fuel in a Ron 98 engine. Like I said having used E10, E5 and ethanol free fuel since E10 was introduced in 2011 I havent noticed anything near the numbers you got in 3 different cars. All those cars obviously setup for 95 Ron.

@@TheDude50447 I put the DOI number above "10.29303/jppipa.v9i9.4716" .. and yes, sorry if I wasn't clear, but from your suggestion, I will look to test a "2-2.5% ethanol, 99 octane petrol" I have available near me, to see the difference the Fiesta ST 98RON setup makes. This would be interesting as all of the ethanol mileage tests I've done with the ST are with 95RON.

@@ravenheart369 Yes, it's because of where the refineries are and how the fuel is transported. I never knew we had pipelines across the South and up to the Midlands! It's very hard to find ethanol-free up North and in Devon and Cornwall unfortunately.

What does your wife's boyfriend think of your Tesla?

@@boilerhousegarage pathetic you are..

You're missing a "please" from that, but it's a 12mm and you'll need a long reach or deep socket to get it over the top 1:11

Nice! Are you going to this year's one on Thursday?

@@boilerhousegarage yes what time does it start

@@MrJoshuas5678 It was 5pm last year.. A bit silly as most people won't be back from work and it'll cause a bit of traffic for people trying to get through the rush hour.

You're welcome to send in a sample.

@@boilerhousegarage I will be honest, I have tried other brands that do 99 and they tend not to be consistent and atm I am using Tesco momentum 99 but only from one station because I feel for me personally it’s the most consistent only from the station closest to me.

At least you're honest. Tesco Momentum is an excellent petrol, but I'm not sure if the Super Unleadeds in Manchester are ethanol-free yet, however it's still beneficial to use the higher quality ones over the cheaper 95 and 97 RON.

@@boilerhousegarage Even am not sure if it’s ethanol free. Furthermore I tend to use 99 on my ford focus 1.0 eco boost.

@@ds1868 Cheers! That would be awesome if they did. I've found my channel mentioned on a few forums now, but would really like to know for certain what the issue was.

Thanks for the sub and comment.. Fantastic! I hope she has made a full recovery and has the all-clear. Yes, the NHS gets it right half the time, but needs to be over 99% of the time given the literal life-and-death nature of healthcare. Many people find themselves in a postcode lottery of whether they get urgent treatment or not.

Thanks Reggie! It's a shame I couldn't have gotten samples from further afield at the same time as the earlier tests, as I'd like to have known how widespread the issue was. In any case, it's good that it's not reading low anymore as to not cause anyone problems.

Correct. This is why I mention it at 22:45 and show the allen key in place (although it's hard to see) along with the ratchet. Unfortunately I couldn't hold the allen key, tighten the tensioner bolt and film with my phone all at the same time. Once it's tightened down hard by hand, you can torque it up without much risk of it moving, unless of course you made a feeble effort of tightening by hand, in which case you also won't be able to hold the allen key "in place" either.

Such a good tip it was already said twice in this video!