Sorry, missed this comment.. I hope it went well. Do the MK8s use the same gearbox? Ravenol is good and they offer single grade SAE 70, 75 and multigrade 75w80.. I noticed that most people go for multi, even if the single is original spec/recommended.
It was hot (or at least was driven within a couple of hours) when I did it, although I don't think it matters too much as it'll be negligible on how much oil will stick to the bottom of the case or is still coating the gears.. Thanks! It sounds like a common issue that we'll have to just live with.
@@Kamui.. Yes, the viscosity doesn't change, however the metal components expand, so you'd still normally do lubricant changes at operating temperature. Modern oils tend to have additives that will make it cling to components when they're cold (in order to prevent wear on start-up).
@@boilerhousegarage hey, just did the gearbox oil change and wanted to give you a feedback : first I put around 1.95l inside, and it worked as good / as bad as previously. But I read that the gearbox manufacturer said to put 2.3 2.4l in. Looks like Ford underfilled them when new... I put around 2.3l 2.4l inside, it means filling it up until it overflows. Then drove some kilometers : the gear never passed so good since ever. Better then when new ! Of course it's only for the manual gearbox
@@Kamui.. Oh really, that's awesome! It is unusual to not have the oil fill level for gearboxes and diffs at the fill hole itself, so just thought it was a modern car thing. I'm going to have to try topping mine up to that level then, as the gear change is better but I still do get where it won't select 1st from a neutral standstill. Thanks for sharing the update; I might have to do some experimenting.
The sometimes rough change into second has gone completely on mine after this fluid change and the sticky first is a lot better now, but still happens on occasion. Have you tried changing the gear oil? I'm convinced they're underfilled from factory as mentioned in the vid.
@@scribzone192 It's possible if I do a summary video in the future. I did do a test drive immediately after this one, but it barely any views. I also have about 4 other videos on the ST that I've not had a chance to edit and finalise yet. Thanks for the sub!
@@jokebre Even Ford's advice contradicts itself, so I think it's best ignored since many people say that the gearchange is notchy from new all adds up to it not having the right capacity in the first place.
Yes, bit of a bodge. It's from the rocker/cam cover gasket, so I've just tightened it, but as I've got to do a timing belt later this year, I'll reseal it properly then.
@@boilerhousegarage ah yes, is that the plastic cover kind of in 2 parts? Next to injectors etc? I've seen this fixed in other videos so must be a common issue
@@willo219 That's right, it was leaking from the larger left hand piece that the oil cap/filler goes into. It apparently has a gasket and not just sealer, so will probably be a bigger job than I expect to do it properly.
A 2litre from the 80's will weigh much less than one from today. Put a modern engine of same power and displacement in the 80's car and you will see a more noticeable difference in fuel efficiency. Its the weight killing efficiency not poor engines/ engineering for the most part.
Good point! The weight would in fact make more of a difference to fuel consumption, however a lot of reliability and longevity can be achieved if most of the emissions crap was dumped. Multipoint fuel injection (to inlet/before the valve) and a catalytic converter should be more than enough.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Getting tbat hose to stay in is a real PIA 😂
Doing this on my mk8 ST this week. Hoping it fixes the notchyness. Ravenol MTF2, highly rated for this gearbox
Sorry, missed this comment.. I hope it went well. Do the MK8s use the same gearbox? Ravenol is good and they offer single grade SAE 70, 75 and multigrade 75w80.. I noticed that most people go for multi, even if the single is original spec/recommended.
@@boilerhousegarage not done it yet. I heard it's the same B6 or 6B gearbox but with different ratios for better acceleration.
You do it when the oil is cold or hot ?
Also, the 1st gear is sometimes difficult to pass at green light, since new. Same happens with reverse gear
It was hot (or at least was driven within a couple of hours) when I did it, although I don't think it matters too much as it'll be negligible on how much oil will stick to the bottom of the case or is still coating the gears.. Thanks! It sounds like a common issue that we'll have to just live with.
@@boilerhousegarage ok thx for your answer.
So since it's monograde, it's as fluid cold and hot ?
@@Kamui.. Yes, the viscosity doesn't change, however the metal components expand, so you'd still normally do lubricant changes at operating temperature. Modern oils tend to have additives that will make it cling to components when they're cold (in order to prevent wear on start-up).
@@boilerhousegarage hey, just did the gearbox oil change and wanted to give you a feedback :
first I put around 1.95l inside, and it worked as good / as bad as previously. But I read that the gearbox manufacturer said to put 2.3 2.4l in.
Looks like Ford underfilled them when new...
I put around 2.3l 2.4l inside, it means filling it up until it overflows.
Then drove some kilometers : the gear never passed so good since ever. Better then when new !
Of course it's only for the manual gearbox
@@Kamui.. Oh really, that's awesome! It is unusual to not have the oil fill level for gearboxes and diffs at the fill hole itself, so just thought it was a modern car thing. I'm going to have to try topping mine up to that level then, as the gear change is better but I still do get where it won't select 1st from a neutral standstill. Thanks for sharing the update; I might have to do some experimenting.
My st180 has sticky 1st gear too
The sometimes rough change into second has gone completely on mine after this fluid change and the sticky first is a lot better now, but still happens on occasion. Have you tried changing the gear oil? I'm convinced they're underfilled from factory as mentioned in the vid.
@@boilerhousegarage hmm not yet it’s on the cars though, I occasionally crunch 3rd aswell so it would be worth an oil change.
@@boilerhousegaragefollow up vid would be nice
@@scribzone192 It's possible if I do a summary video in the future. I did do a test drive immediately after this one, but it barely any views. I also have about 4 other videos on the ST that I've not had a chance to edit and finalise yet. Thanks for the sub!
filed the gearbox up until it overflows, makes around 2.3 2.4l, solves all this, better then when new !
I've changed the fluid twice and just put 2l in both times. How TF are you supposed to measure if you follow Ford's advise anyway.
@@jokebre Even Ford's advice contradicts itself, so I think it's best ignored since many people say that the gearchange is notchy from new all adds up to it not having the right capacity in the first place.
Did you fix the oil leak?
Yes, bit of a bodge. It's from the rocker/cam cover gasket, so I've just tightened it, but as I've got to do a timing belt later this year, I'll reseal it properly then.
@@boilerhousegarage ah yes, is that the plastic cover kind of in 2 parts? Next to injectors etc? I've seen this fixed in other videos so must be a common issue
@@willo219 That's right, it was leaking from the larger left hand piece that the oil cap/filler goes into. It apparently has a gasket and not just sealer, so will probably be a bigger job than I expect to do it properly.
@@boilerhousegarage do another video when you get to it please, always good to see another point of view with it. Thanks 👍
A 2litre from the 80's will weigh much less than one from today. Put a modern engine of same power and displacement in the 80's car and you will see a more noticeable difference in fuel efficiency. Its the weight killing efficiency not poor engines/ engineering for the most part.
Good point! The weight would in fact make more of a difference to fuel consumption, however a lot of reliability and longevity can be achieved if most of the emissions crap was dumped. Multipoint fuel injection (to inlet/before the valve) and a catalytic converter should be more than enough.