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Seems like its doing a good job for you!

@@raula.c4771 I've never seen mine past 125, and that's with a camper trailer in tow uphill in summer

@Shanes_Shed Thank you very much. Perhaps the oil pump is not working properly. A recent measurement showed 1 bar with an engine temperature of 87 degrees.

Somewhere in the 80-90 degree range is where I’ve typically seen the oil temps when doing typical driving around with minimal load. With a load on like towing a trailer oil temps should bump up to sit around 100deg and when working hard uphills is where it will get into the 120s. Also with those higher engine oil temps the coolant temp is up around 110. I would not expect to see high oil temps without also seeing higher than normal coolant temps

It was a good year, I have a vision of where I want to be but it will probably take a couple of years to get to that point.

@@Shanes_Shed You will get there mate, determination and focus is the key!

Plus lots of money - very important part when playing with cars😒

I fly back to work Xmas eve - I have the later half of Jan off. I did have the start of Jan but moved my leave around due to a shut down at work.

No problem!

I bring it to Byrons, but I buy it earlier😆

Don’t give up, it comes out fairly easily

​@@Shanes_ShedGot it! It came out the same side as yours even though it's a left hand drive. Thanks man.

See my reply to the same question on your other comment

Generally they shouldn't weep. Its just an oring seal so there is a chance that the seal is not quite the correct size (being a non genuine part), there could be some dirt/debris in the seal area preventing proper sealing, there's always the possibility of damage done to the oring during installation. Theres also the possibility that it could be an issue on the injector itself with damage to the oring seat area (unlikely I would think). Unfortunately it would most likely require the individual leak off line to be removed from the problem injector for inspection.

@ thanks I had though probably a bit of debris in there. I’ll pull that line and squirt with a can of brake cleaner then hit with compressed air. Maybe some o ring lube will help too. All the others are fine.

If your only working on one side at a time and just have that one side jacked up then you can get away without dropping the oil. If both sides are jacked up equally then you may lose a little bit of oil

Mine was a 2005. 2005-2009 2.7TD should be a LR014064

Those started disappearing from auto transmissions in the 90's

@Shanes_Shed oooof. Well I may have a leak and don't know if I'm low. I guess I'll have to drain and flush. My concern is that I don't know if the drain plug socket is cracked from someone bottoming out. I don't know if removing it will make it worse.

I'm sure it would be very similar

Slipping ramps give me the shits. Crows foot spanner could work, might have some clearance issues at the filter housing as the two lines are fairly close together. I did cut down a 7/8 open ended to fit into the area a little better

@Shanes_Shed Just an idea maye throw the tools you used in the description to help other But man i still love that strap tip

Didn't quite have 7 seconds post gas - from memory I had 3 or 4 seconds set. But it takes a bit of thought to remember to hold it there all the time - I've mainly used stick welding in the past so theres alot more going on that I need to be thinking of all the time.

Well ok, thanks for the comment at least

All depends on what the fault is. Would need a bit more explanation and fault codes to assist a bit more

definatly, best way to learn is just get in and have a crack. We have a few failures along the way, but thats fine.

I was using Zirconiated tungsten (white) tig tungsten

Thanks for the tips, greatly appreciated as it’s quite different to welding I’ve done in the past.

We can't all be experts at the first attempt

Gotta start somewhere

That's awesome to hear - it sounds like it has really helped!

It’s a bit harder than they make it look on TH-cam😝

I'm sure it will go ok as well - he's had some good people helping out

@Shanes_Shed yes he has and one day I would like to meet them all as well

this one died earlier this year due to loss of oil pressure.

@@Shanes_Shed the oil pumps are supposed to be replaced at the same time with timing belt and water pump, but yeah cheap p.o.s 😂

I havent previously heard or read anything regarding the oil pumps on them needing to be changed. Agree they are a cheap POS however

Thanks Paul, I assume your all done by now and making your way back home?

@ yeah man, 3000ks down, in Mildura for the night and 1000ks home tomorrow 👌🏻

Nearly there! Hope its been trouble free

@ had it’s moments but all in all it’s good

The people who comment from the US are all envious of us having a 10W40 version of it here

Seems 10-40 oils are becoming a bit yesterdays news. Except for Classic Cars and motorcycles.. Wish we could get it here in 10-40 I'd like to try it out in a few different motorcycles Can't use the 30 weight oils cause they are considered energy conserving wet clutch issues crop up with those oil ratings.

xW-40 oil is one of the more popular grades here in Australia so we wouldn't class them as yesterdays news. But yeah you'd defiantly need an oil thats compatible with wet clutches in bikes

Can't wait until the next time!

Similar on the other side, just doesn’t have the outer bearing to remove. It should have a snap ring to lock the cv in place. I normally use a brass drift to tap on the inner cv and drive it out

Thanks Shane. I’ll compare the manual gearbox layout with your video but I reckon it’ll be similar to the auto. Thanks for info on the other side. Seems manageable at my end. I’ll research some more, order the boots and seals and get it done. Happy to shout you a beer anytime. I’m semi retired and do Adventure Motorcycling. So no doubt will pass wherever you are in Australia someday. Thanks again. Only just discovered your channel so I’ll explore your other videos. Kind regards, Craig.

Mines is a manual also😉I’m over in Perth - just spent last weekend in Sydney myself. I could deal with the blue mountains as a place to live - Sydney itself not so much..

Hi Shane. I decided on the expensive option and install new L and R axles. I just wanted to ask if the R axle and extension with bearing can be easily split or do I have to find a new extension with bearing piece. I’m thinking there’s a snap ring holding the extension and R axles together. In your video, you didn’t have to do this. But the new part will come with the CV axle minus the extension/ bearing. So I’ll have to seperate and fit the extension to the new axle. Thinking of riding through the centre next year to the Kimberly’s and heading south to Perth and across the Nullarbor. So will keep you in mind for that beer! Yes, Blue Mountains is still pretty nice place to live and raise the kids. Sydney is too busy for my liking. Craig

It was a while ago I done this job so I can’t recall how the centre cv bell was attached to the rest of the shaft. I would have thought a brand new one would be complete and ready to go with no stuffing around required

Yeah it’s not the cheapest, not that much more than Mobil 1 however

@Shanes_Shed 5w50 Mobil is on clearance at Supercheap FYI

Yes it was!

Owner brought this one new and then didn't service it. I've been slowly getting her to change her ways by looking after this one a little better.

Well I'm in the process of finding out - here's my other test case that's in worse condition. th-cam.com/video/KzgEIt4LhFU/w-d-xo.html

@Shanes_Shed I bought a 2004 lincoln town car 2 years and immediately switched to Amsoil Signatue - the internals now look new. As a winter diver I purchased a 2010 toyota Rav4 4wd, the build quality on this is amazing, at 255,000 miles it's better than some a lot newer stuff I had back in the but it didn't have the best of care. If I get a scope I'll send you a picture of the deposits. TX!

@phillipholmes4466 that would be awesome

Can't help you out with that one unfortunately, that would have gone with the engine from memory