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Studio Arkdefo
United Kingdom
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 21 ม.ค. 2020
Clothes making for weird body shapes 🪡
Pattern making courses for beginners.
Advanced pattern drafting courses.
Finally learn to make clothes that fit and get that "A-HA!" moment.
Use discount code YT10 for 10% off all courses
arkdefo.com
Business: info@arkdefo.com
Pattern making courses for beginners.
Advanced pattern drafting courses.
Finally learn to make clothes that fit and get that "A-HA!" moment.
Use discount code YT10 for 10% off all courses
arkdefo.com
Business: info@arkdefo.com
What is Vanity Sizing? | How to avoid marketing traps
Learn to make clothes based on your own sizes courses.arkdefo.com
What is vanity sizing and how do stores use it?
Different stores will have their own particular sizing.
For example, a size 14 in one store may not be a 14 in another.
So if you are a 14 and Store A tells you "hey, you are a 12" you feel great and are more likely to buy. But then you go into Store B.
Maybe there you are a size bigger.
Where are you more likely to shop?
Neither shop is right and it shouldn't matter, but vanity sizing is a very powerful marketing tool used to get you to buy.
Is there an answer?
Learn to separate body size from clothing size.
It is the first step in learning to love your body.
Remember to like, share, subscribe and be kind x
Timestamps
00:00 - Have you heard of vanity sizing?
01:01 - Body image issues
02:05 - Clothes should fit you not the other way around
02:52 - Liza Bennett, designer & educator
03:06 - How do we get out of vanity sizing?
03:44 - Focus on the feeling
04:15 - Buying oversized
04:51 - Fitting the size and dopamine rush
05:43 - Separating clothing size from body size
06:03 - Arkdefo online clothes making courses
06:26 - Using ease to make a garment bigger
What is vanity sizing and how do stores use it?
Different stores will have their own particular sizing.
For example, a size 14 in one store may not be a 14 in another.
So if you are a 14 and Store A tells you "hey, you are a 12" you feel great and are more likely to buy. But then you go into Store B.
Maybe there you are a size bigger.
Where are you more likely to shop?
Neither shop is right and it shouldn't matter, but vanity sizing is a very powerful marketing tool used to get you to buy.
Is there an answer?
Learn to separate body size from clothing size.
It is the first step in learning to love your body.
Remember to like, share, subscribe and be kind x
Timestamps
00:00 - Have you heard of vanity sizing?
01:01 - Body image issues
02:05 - Clothes should fit you not the other way around
02:52 - Liza Bennett, designer & educator
03:06 - How do we get out of vanity sizing?
03:44 - Focus on the feeling
04:15 - Buying oversized
04:51 - Fitting the size and dopamine rush
05:43 - Separating clothing size from body size
06:03 - Arkdefo online clothes making courses
06:26 - Using ease to make a garment bigger
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I have the opposite problem with clothes. I also found finding any plus size clothes in Europe when I was recently there was impossible, especially for bottoms. I couldn't find any larger size panties to save my life.
This is part of the reason why i want to learn to sew and make historical clothing. Before fast fashion, stays, corsets, padding, etc, hid the wearers natural body shape to some degree. Some styles are extremely adjustable due to how they are constructed and put on the body.
i have a question for you, and the other knowledgeable folks here, on sleeve ease: you mention at 0:56 that woven (i.e. non stretch) garments need sleeve cap ease. but is that actually, always, true? i ask only because when i design my patterns, i don't add any ease at all to either my armscye or my sleeve cap. i do all my patterning digitally, so i can guarantee that my sleeve cap is the exact length as my armscye (well, assuming i cut it out properly, of course 😅) i've made all my garments this way, from closely tailored blazers, to relaxed fit shirts, and my sleeve mobility feels great. still, what do you think about the necessity of sleeve head/armscye ease?
New subscriber! I wish I found you a year ago!
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Amazing video! Got me excited for making nickers ❤
Great advice! Also, I love your hair so much! I have curls right on the edge of being waves, so I’m jealous! 😂
I just joined your peck and I have learned so much. Thank you
Excellent, but I do not want the pleats at the sleeve on the top
This is the best video on how to use bodice blocks I’ve ever seen… you made a lot make sense
Thank you for showing so many examples of
I love how you teach! I've learned so much in 20mins. Thank you
Thank you so much for all your help! Also I want to say that your lip color looks great on you.
Thank you. It was beautiful to see how you work.
I do not believe it is just the clothing industry. When I was expecting my first baby, more than 40 years ago, the same issue of body image was right there in the leaflets about what to expect during pregnancy. There was a drawing of an un-pregnant woman with her tummy as flat as an ironing board. At the time I was very slightly built but I was still conscious of my “terrible fat tummy”. This mis-conception was then fuelled by this drawn image of the ideal, non-pregnant woman. Looking back on this makes me so angry. Why not take an average looking woman and make a drawing of what was real, not what someone thought a woman should look like. Then there were the subsequent ideal pictures at 3, 6 and 9 months pregnant. We are all different! Even my grandmother joined in by telling me no one ever knew she was pregnant. So it looks like it might have been even worse in her day and may be she didn’t go out much.
I love to experiment, as well, except, I don't quit until I'm happy. I love the colour, including the colours. Shorten the sleeves and add a piece to the hem, it could mimic a wide belt !? ❤
This is a huge encouragement, thank you so much ❤
«Standard clothes create people who does not fit» is a saying - and it is so true, and so sad…
A genius move would be to list the finished garment measurements on women's clothing like they do on menswear. For stretchy items they could list the intended measurements. Why aren't women's clothes treated the same?
I found out when I was younger that H&M does the reverse vanity sizing, I assume it is to make teenagers feel like they fit in women's clothes? I was trying on underwear that is measured in centimetres around your ribcage and almost couldn't breathe, it was so tiny. 😅
Thank you for this video. I am a tall person size 18uk. I've had issues buying clothes to fit most of my life. I decided to do a degree in fashion to learn how to sew and learn more about textiles. Total eye opener, especially the fashion industry. Talking about sizing, I sell on a very popular second-hand clothing platform. Their sizing is really demeaning. If you select a size 18, for example, the option is XXXL 😮 I love your videos, thank you 😊
I've made my own clothes for a few years and I'm so scared I'll make something too small that I have gone the other way around and everything is slightly too big 😆 I've just had enough of this sizing bullshit, no size is ever what it says it is. Luckily I can take them in.
I stopped believing in sizes when I saw “oversized” jumpers in fast fashion stores. “Oversized S”, “oversized M”, when you could just go and buy the actual bigger size.
Genuinely good advice, thank you so much
Thank you for sharing your sewing techniques .😊
Also, some ideas don’t work for every situation and maybe it ends up being something you can use later or for something else too. Some bad past ideas can be recycled into good ideas, after you have more knowledge or a different need arises that it works better for.
Women's sizing is ridiculous. Men's sizing, in many cases, is based on measurements. I always thought that made so much more sense.
Great video on attaching a sleeve.
I really like you showing your decision making process.
This was fresh encouragement! Thank you! Would you share the information about the boots you wore with the green skirt? They were cute and looked comfortable!
I have finally cracked. You, along with so many Europeans, are using “detail” incorrectly. A detail is generally a small, insignificant or optional part of a thing. It may be an important part of your aesthetic, but it could easily be overlooked. The leg of a table, for example, isn’t a detail. It’s a necessary part of a table without which it cannot serve its function. If the leg had some small decoration carved into it, that would be a detail. The sleeve of a shirt isn’t a detail. It’s a piece, or a part, or even a bit of the shirt. If there were top-stitching on the seams, that would be a detail. A collar isn’t a detail either, though if it has some unusual design feature, such as long points, that could be a detail. Buttons may be a detail, but only insofar as they are optional, or unusual in some way. If you use “piece” anywhere it could apply you are unlikely to go wrong. “Part” is by far the most commonly used of these words, but in the context of sewing “piece” is more usual. “Bit” is rather more informal and also more general in meaning. “Detail” is much less commonly used in sewing and in general. I apologise for the lecture. I have resisted the urge to say this on any of the many other channels where people keep saying “detail” when they mean “piece” or “part”. Yours just happened to be the final straw. It appears to me that the use of “detail” is taught incorrectly across the continent for some reason, because I hear it used in many sewing, woodworking, and other crafting videos when it shouldn’t be. I really enjoy your videos nonetheless. Thx!
Thank you, I am loving the course too. I used to struggle with measuring my body for this reason, I would think my circumference is more than a metre which would mess with my head, but I realised I can use inches for me and centimetres for the world, I am better about that now, I have big boobs which means I have to size up, I am slowly replacing my clothing with my own handmade clothes and I definitely feel better about it. Also you can design in size adjustable features if like me your size fluctuates over a month, shirring elastic and it's so freeing.
If you’d used a different fabric for the yoke lining and the inside of the cuffs you might have been able to make longer sleeves. I like this shirt but too short sleeves are uncomfortable and look weird. An interesting video nonetheless.
American clothing sizes are such nonsense. I am usually a size 4 in pants, but last time I went to a clothing store, I tried on the size 4 and they literally fell to the floor! I had to get the smallest size in the place, and I guarantee I am not the smallest woman to go to that store... We need to learn to stop judging ourselves based on what number has been arbitrarily chosen to correlate to the clothes that fit us.
My first encounter with vanity sizing was 1983 at the Limited. I was consistently wearing a size 7 or 8 pants (imperfectly 😅) at the time. I found a pair of pants that I loved. When I tried them in my size, they were so big they nearly fell off. I wound up with a size 3. I wore those pants for many years. It was my first clue something was wrong.
Wish "much younger me" could have heard this message decades ago. I've longed so much to wear clothes that fit the way I want(ed) them to...literally decades! My life likely would have been very different had the message that the clothes should fit my body, not the other way around was told to me! I wove fabric for years but could not sew anything I could wear (in public except ponchos and wraps (which I love :)) Such great fortune for all those learning from you! Thank you :)
الله يهديك للإسلام
Many of the beautiful, talented women sewists I follow on TH-cam talk about having grown up hating their shape or struggling to find ready-to-wear clothes that fitted them for a variety of reasons. I used to feel the same way: my hips were too wide, my thighs too chunky, my feet too long... the list of perceived defects was endless. The pressure on young women and girls nowadays is even worse. I am now in my 60s and I've finally made peace with my body. I see it for what it is and always has been: a faithful servant which has carried me through life so far in relatively good health, borne and suckled three wonderful children, and continues to get me around and enables me to enjoy life without too many dramas. We place far too much emphasis on appearance and not enough on happiness! Feeling comfortable in your body is a precious thing 😊
❤
Thank you for this video. I sew and have stopped really sewing for myself due to weight gain and my shape changing so dramatically due to menopause. I see others wearing things that I love and think I cannot do that. I hope I can take this advice and try to remember I am not a #.
Hey, I struggle with weight fluctuations, over the course of a typical year I can vary by 15 kg. For a while I stopped sewing for myself too... But then I realised a few things. 1 there will never be a perfect time or weight. 2. Size adjustable features exist like shirring elastic, ties and knit fabric 3.It takes time to get your skills to the place you would want to be able to make the clothes you want so, try and fail, there's lots of inexpensive fabric out there, 4. It's easier to take things in than let them out. 5. Your joy now is worth it. Because 6- you are worthy of making the clothes for. Make the dress of your dreams, don't let the menopause ( or anything else) steal any more of your joy. ( As as aside I would thoroughly recommend their pattern drafting course Liza is a fantastic teacher)
I'm so glad that i found your channel! I am that person with huge hips, and nothing fits me!😅
Most of fast fashion dont make flatering clothes for curvier bodies with big bust or hip area. I do not like baggy clothing for biggers sizes that make yore body absolutely rectangular and force you to were belt that make your short waist body even shorter and unproportional.
I’m having a tough time finding 100% cotton elastic, and all the ones I’ve found that have a picot edge are all polyester. Does anyone have a source they’re willing to share?
Vanity sizing combined with the obesity epidemic has created a situation where actual small sizes are progressively becoming more and more rare. I'm a 23" to 24" waist, and in the 50s and 60s I would've been around a size 12 to 14, with smaller sizes below that still available, and many more bigger ones (obviously). But changing to the xs,s,m,l,xl and size 0 system (which they had to add 00 due to making 0 bigger over time) has made it so that a garment marked xs, 0 (or even 00 these days), or even 24 (referring, allegedly, to inches), will now be too big for me. There will be a 2" or more gap in the back! So I am being sized out of the industry unless I want to shop at Brandy Melville (I never have, not my style). So I'm making my own clothes now out of vintage self-drafting patterns. So much better! But yeah, that has been my personal issue with vanity sizing. I'm sure some would look at me and think I'm lucky, can buy and wear anything and so on. But actually as someone who is short and thin (not even rail thin or anything, I think I just have an average build), I can't wear (hardly) anything off the rack. I know there are worse problems to have but I think this side of vanity sizing doesn't get pointed out. I think the way women's clothes are made, designed, etc. leaves a lot to be desired. I'm glad you're helping people make their own clothes. <3
I agree. It is interesting that men’s clothing by and large does not experience this issue.🤔
Sich good advice you are giving us. Love better to have ideas than no ideas.Thank you for your encouragement.
I know you didn't make the perfect shirt for you. However, you did make a lovely shirt and taught us some things along the way.
I love the simple way you show the people who love sewing so easy to learn from you thanks watching from trinidad and tobago love you
I can understand you so well. There are a lot of clothes pieces that found new wearers bc I experimented with something that didn't work out for me. There were some really good informations in the video. Thank you.
Thank you, what a confidence booster!
Hi, thank you for sharing the tips on sewing the sleeves. I tried it and I succeeded! It’s became so ease to sew on the sleeve even has 3.5cm ease. 🙏🌹
Thanks for your honesty and openness in this video, and I totally understand the problem with skirt length, I'm not very tall, so long skirts and stairs are a wee bit dangerous, you look fabulous in your posh dress. ❤
Do you have any patterns or advice for trousers for a strongly pear-shaped figure? Trousers are hard enough without the complex adjustments I need just to get in the ballpark of a good fit.
@@danicatempleton6745 we are currently working on a trousers course and pears are covered in that. Once you get the fit it’s a game changer
OMG! I didn’t expect to make such comfortable undies in my first attempt. I really can’t believe it. Your course is amazing, so well explained and well taught. I’ve made myself a pair of period undies using bamboo towelling and pul as the gusset. Mind blowing 🤯 Thank for letting us access your content.❤