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I hear about this Marlin firmware, is that better than Stock for the Vyper ? do you have a video on that ?

just used it in 2024 :)

Thank you so much for this, appreciate your help!

Совершенно невнятный ролик. Ни о чем!

You saved my anycubic *ss multiple times now... Thank you for sharing your insights.🙏👍✊🇳🇱

Soo helpful! Thank you so much!!

the app is not connecting to the printer even if I move it to another port what do I do

Your videos helping me soo much in way of problems. Thanks!

I've been having issues with my Vyper dropping random blobs of filament on my prints and when I looked at at I noticed that my nozzle is flush up against the heat block so I'm going to be doing this tomorrow and see if it fixes my problem.

Are these settings being saved onto SD card or internal EEPROM chip on the printer? I am having issue with my Vyper loosing bed mesh/estepsnsettings after power cycle (if SD card is not present). I am running community firmware.

Came for the info. Stayed for the cat

You are amazing. I am that literal kind of person this helped a lot. I will have to learn that program but it makesore sense now. Could you show a benchy or string test with your setting? I use two other programs, but I like the control/directness of this.

Thank you very much for your help I was able to solve my sensor problem thanks to you, I had tried several methods but its success and I succeeded however I am a beginner in 3d printing thanks to your video and your detailed explanation thank you again.👍👍

Hi! What about M406?

OMG THANK YOU SO MUCH YOU HELPED ME SO MUCH I DONT KNOW WHAT I WOULD HAVE DONE WITHOUT THIS VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!🥰🥰🥰

Thank you!! I needed to adjust and wanted to make sure I was doing it right. This was tremendous help.

Also add some lube. Mine was tight but there was some squeaky sound. After lube was added, the sound was gone

Why not try this way: th-cam.com/video/CqwwDyOkoVg/w-d-xo.html

HOW DO IT WITHOUT octoprint?

Thanks for an excellent explanation, I'm trying it out now, but I thought I'd write down some steps for people interested, and brave enough about how I did a teardown to bare metal to clean the terrible mess, burned Bowden tube, and plugged nozzle in a used Vyper I bought cheap. The secret weapon -- only on all-metal parts -- is automotive brake-cleaner. So as to the tear-down: Use at your own risk and be careful and gentle. As B3D explains, I loosened the nozzle a little, while it was hot, being careful to use two wrenches so as to not break any wires or the strain gauge. Knowing how heat affects metals, it's pretty important to make sure nothing snaps, slips (breaking the termistor lead, for example) or strips. Okay, so after removing the Hot-end plastic cover, I took several photos, and discovered that the wires on my system were all nicely labelled except for the thermistor lead. The connectors on the board are all marked as well. Okay, so the one NOT labelled can only go one place and I won't really need the photos. YMMV. I started disconnecting the male ends of the cables with needle nose pliers and discovered that the female plastic cable connector covers came right off with the cables. Not the pins, thankfully, just the plastic female covers. Annoying, but you can push them back into place. I suspect whatever kept them on the circuit board was affected by heat within the enclosure over time -- it was a used Vyper with high mileage. Next I took the nozzle/hotend assembly and Bowden tube to the bench. Big mess. Unscrew the thermistor first -- the wires on the bead end are really fragile -- and set that aside somewhere safe. Then loosen the two setscrews that lock the heatbreak into the heatsink, try to pull it apart. No luck -- the Bowden is reall stuck into the filament plug mess. Unlock the Bowden from the top of the heatsink and pull the heatsink free over the Bowden tube leaving the melted Bowden still stuck in the heatbreak. Luckily, I have a desoldering station with a hot air unit. Heat the hot end and nozzle up to melt the old filament plug somewhat and pull on the Bowden tube, which gradually pulls free of the nozzle/heatbreak. Last 3 cm are a burned mess. Should be able to trim that off -- I don't have any spare Bowden tube at the moment and I want to finish this first. But I need to clean the mess up. So I need to get the heatbreak out of the hot end block. IS IT TOO MUCH TO ASK for a manufacturer to put opposite flats on the heatbreak collar (instead of a continuous round ring) so I can use a Crescent wrench INSTEAD of chewing things up with Vise-Grips ? I found that unscrewing it a little, then screwing it back in, unscrewing a bit more and repeating it made it come free. I would never have attempted that if I hadn't removed the thermistor first. Now pull the heater out of the heat block by taking the clamping screws out and gently spreading the split hole apart to release the heater rod. Set that aside. Remove the nozzle, set that aside. The Vyper nozzle has a longer threaded portion, I have no spares. Hopefully I can get it clean enough. Which is when I had a brainstorm. EUREKA! I HAVE BRAKE CLEANER SPRAY!!! Available at auto-parts stores, this stuff eats grease, a number of plastics, some painted surfaces, certain rubbers, etc. But WEAR EYE PROTECTION, use in a well-ventilated area, and avoid skin contact. Seriously -- if you have cuts or scratches on your hands, and you get this stuff in any of them, they'll say "HI!!!!" really loudly. Anyway, the brake cleaner did a fantastic job. Not sure what materials the previous owner used, but a brass brush, wooden cotton swabs, and brake cleaner eliminated the gunk. If you're inclined for a complete tear-down of the hot-end (to protect any non-metal parts), it works well. Assembly is the reverse order. And it works!!!!

Very helpful video! I am in the process of upgrading my hot end with a Slice Engineering standard G2 heat break and capricorn tubing, so your video gives lots of good info. One edit I would say is that if a person has been using their printer for any length of time, that factory bowden tube will be really stuck in the hot end with melted filament and thermal paste as you said. I did not try the loosening of the fitting trick, instead, I heated my hot end to 170 C for a min minutes to soften the hardened filament/thermal paste, turned off the machine, then pulled the bowden tube right out.

having a hard time trying to adjust the set of two rollers on the outside on the spool side of the gantry. Anyone have suggestions on how adjust it so it's tension with the vertical part of the gantry is 'tighter'?

th-cam.com/video/CqwwDyOkoVg/w-d-xo.html

Are you still making videos? I was gonna send you a few bucks I haven’t seen any new videos in a long time or maybe you have another channel somewhere else? Let me know..

Awesome video I’m gonna take a crack at this in a couple days and see if I can check out what my printers doing. I went to put in a hardened steel nozzle, and it seem like it was excluding too much. It should’ve been exactly the same not really understanding that but I will have a look at the E steps and start there

very cool thanks

Hey! I want you to know that you helped me very much in calibrating vyper, so thank you! And also I wonder why there's no new videos for a year. Is everything alright?

Thanks for info! my esteps were off. Might explain some issues I have been having.

Great video. Please change C5 to C3 in the description due to command M303 E-1 C5 S60 U1. Thanks

You helped me a lot! My extruder is now quietly. Many Thanks!

Bob -0 thanks as always, You and Will (studiozombie) are a wealth of info for the Vyper. Suggestion - Once you do a M503.... copy and save to a text or word file. In case you ever had to replace the board you have a list of all your settings. Anycubic had to send me a new board and it made it really quick.

Dude thanks so much! quick and easy tips on the belt adjustment!

You saved my life! I had struggled with "filament is insufficient or sensor malfunctioning" for the past week, and I couldn't find a solution, but this one helped!

Hey Bob 0 great videos. I contacted StudioZombie3d and his videos also help. He has a firmware he has written that cleaned up many of the issues. Definitely worth trying.

Do you still make videos? I have a Vyper printer that seems to have a problem with pip control for pull back.

Kudos for giving us Anycubic Vyper owners content on utilitites and upgrades, unlike the gazillion vids out for Creality. Personally, I am waiting on a new stock hotend and a bi-metal heatbreak (26mm) that should be a easy swap and do away with the PTFE tube to the nozzle. This should help in so many different ways, and I looked at third party kits, and found that the ones available need some hotend attachment mods, and fan assembly mods. Besides, it is always good to have another hotend available, to either swap out the nozzle or if something goes wrong, easily, as one can damage the automatic leveling mechanism leaving it attached. As always with any change/swap out, a new calibration is in order and with the new heatbreak, some fine tuning on temp and extrusion. Thanks and regards

Thankyou I have a Kobra Max with a faulty sensor, now sensor is disabled no problem printing.

Do yo by chance know how i can find out what revision i have ? i think i have the C and i was going to buy some parts for it off aliexpress but i have no clue how to find out which head i have.

Hi Bob - I know you're a Vyper expert, so I wanted to see if you could help with changing colors on the Vyper. The screen is stuck! I've followed directions and looked all over the place, which all seem to go through the same steps. However, after putting the new filament in, pushing it through so it's the right color, and clearing out the "ooze"it's stuck on "Paused. Waiting on cache commend to complete." It doesn't return to the main screen where I can tell it to "resume." (This was after/is during a 15+ hour print, with 2% left, so I don't want to just turn off the machine.) Any ideas? Thanks!!

Man ! The best video on this topic, by far !! Thanks !! 🙏

Capricorn tubes gave me extrusion issues and filament grinding, changed back to stock. Are you printing higher temps, or do you find a real improvement otherwise using the cap tubes?

Having trouble with x axis. Wheels on hotend have flat spot on them. Tried to follow video. Been using it since March of 2022. This just started a couple of days ago. Any help would be appreciated

Thanks for your videos. You cover everything! Every time I run into an issue, you appear with a guide 🙏🏻

I cant wit till my part comes in been waiting 3 weeks and I was wondering what I would have to do, until I saw your video. Thank you very much for this.!!!!!!!

when I did mine I pinched the wires in the fan shroud I fried my main board, fans and other pieces Any cubic replaced everything it is runing again but it took months to get my parts so be carefull on reassembly.

Bob, the fact they didn't help or want to made me subscribe and contribute. Rattle on, bro!

How do you do a filament change to do a two colour price. Without pausing on the UI. Is there a slicer that can let you pause at a layer height? I tried this in cura and nothing happens

Where can i find the 3d model for the holder?

Love your videos. It helped a lot with getting to know how to use Vyper. I had same issue and have tried to resolve it per you guidance. Unfortunately it did not work. I got in contact with support and they have send me the whole extruder assembly and it resolved the issue. I have figured out that it was actually stepper motor overheating. So if method in the video does not help, try replacing the stepper motor. The symptoms for me was clicking sound as extruder was unable to push filament efficiently as well as under extrusion.

Hey I’ve been having stringing issues with the vyper n I can’t get it dialed in with retraction/temp adjustments. It got better but still stringing 🤦‍♂️ any advice? Using pla + from esun