ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2021
- Anycubic Vyper tips and tricks series, Fixing the leaking nozzle.
This channel is not sponsored, if you would like to help me continue making videos to help, please consider helping out. Thanks. Paypal link below
Support my work on Paypal
Http://paypal.me/bobcraig10
Support my work on Patreon
/ b3dprinting - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thanks for an excellent explanation, I'm trying it out now, but I thought I'd write down some steps for people interested, and brave enough about how I did a teardown to bare metal to clean the terrible mess, burned Bowden tube, and plugged nozzle in a used Vyper I bought cheap. The secret weapon -- only on all-metal parts -- is automotive brake-cleaner.
So as to the tear-down: Use at your own risk and be careful and gentle. As B3D explains, I loosened the nozzle a little, while it was hot, being careful to use two wrenches so as to not break any wires or the strain gauge. Knowing how heat affects metals, it's pretty important to make sure nothing snaps, slips (breaking the termistor lead, for example) or strips.
Okay, so after removing the Hot-end plastic cover, I took several photos, and discovered that the wires on my system were all nicely labelled except for the thermistor lead. The connectors on the board are all marked as well. Okay, so the one NOT labelled can only go one place and I won't really need the photos. YMMV. I started disconnecting the male ends of the cables with needle nose pliers and discovered that the female plastic cable connector covers came right off with the cables. Not the pins, thankfully, just the plastic female covers. Annoying, but you can push them back into place. I suspect whatever kept them on the circuit board was affected by heat within the enclosure over time -- it was a used Vyper with high mileage.
Next I took the nozzle/hotend assembly and Bowden tube to the bench. Big mess. Unscrew the thermistor first -- the wires on the bead end are really fragile -- and set that aside somewhere safe. Then loosen the two setscrews that lock the heatbreak into the heatsink, try to pull it apart. No luck -- the Bowden is reall stuck into the filament plug mess.
Unlock the Bowden from the top of the heatsink and pull the heatsink free over the Bowden tube leaving the melted Bowden still stuck in the heatbreak.
Luckily, I have a desoldering station with a hot air unit. Heat the hot end and nozzle up to melt the old filament plug somewhat and pull on the Bowden tube, which gradually pulls free of the nozzle/heatbreak. Last 3 cm are a burned mess. Should be able to trim that off -- I don't have any spare Bowden tube at the moment and I want to finish this first. But I need to clean the mess up. So I need to get the heatbreak out of the hot end block.
IS IT TOO MUCH TO ASK for a manufacturer to put opposite flats on the heatbreak collar (instead of a continuous round ring) so I can use a Crescent wrench INSTEAD of chewing things up with Vise-Grips ? I found that unscrewing it a little, then screwing it back in, unscrewing a bit more and repeating it made it come free. I would never have attempted that if I hadn't removed the thermistor first.
Now pull the heater out of the heat block by taking the clamping screws out and gently spreading the split hole apart to release the heater rod. Set that aside.
Remove the nozzle, set that aside. The Vyper nozzle has a longer threaded portion, I have no spares. Hopefully I can get it clean enough. Which is when I had a brainstorm. EUREKA! I HAVE BRAKE CLEANER SPRAY!!! Available at auto-parts stores, this stuff eats grease, a number of plastics, some painted surfaces, certain rubbers, etc. But WEAR EYE PROTECTION, use in a well-ventilated area, and avoid skin contact. Seriously -- if you have cuts or scratches on your hands, and you get this stuff in any of them, they'll say "HI!!!!" really loudly.
Anyway, the brake cleaner did a fantastic job. Not sure what materials the previous owner used, but a brass brush, wooden cotton swabs, and brake cleaner eliminated the gunk. If you're inclined for a complete tear-down of the hot-end (to protect any non-metal parts), it works well.
Assembly is the reverse order.
And it works!!!!
Did this just now, a good improvment and relatively easy job. Used a longer Cable tie to keep the cover out of the way while working with the nozzle. Thanks Bob.
Again! Great job buddy! You are quickly becoming the Kersey Fabrication of the Vyper.
People - don't do it like this, remove the hotend completely. It's much easier and less prone to breaking any wires. Just unplug the top and middle right connector and unplug the tube and remove the whole unit.
I've been having issues with my Vyper dropping random blobs of filament on my prints and when I looked at at I noticed that my nozzle is flush up against the heat block so I'm going to be doing this tomorrow and see if it fixes my problem.
I figured this was just one flaw I was going to have to deal with. Glad to see theres a simple fix. Thanks for the video and info.
Great video, is there a nozzle you would recommend I.e upgrading? Thanks
Very good info. I noticed it leaked and there was no gap.
Lucky mine is ok but I should follow your gapping recommendations thanks for the Video
What electric screwdriver are you using?
I just got my Vyper, first time with 3D. I have printed a couple prints, about 27 hours of PLA printing so far, and no leaking issues. However, I want to make sure I can fix it, if I do. You changed your Nozzle but you didn't show changing that other piece up inside where the nozzle has to seat to. How is that done if needed? And tell me about the silicone sock, and the purpose? and where is the STL for the extruder / nozzle holder? That is cool. Thank you for your support. PS: after I got my printer, I found out that they have released version "C" of the viper, but my model has been in their warehouse since May 2021. So I opened a support call to AnyCubic, and they are sending me all the "C" updates. You might want to do the same thing. Much better cabling, I think.
Hi Eric,. The stand is on thingiverse. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4961718. The silicone sock helps to keep heat regulated in the heatblock, and also keeps filament off the heatblock and some of the nozzle if things go bad. Be sure to do a pid auto tune after installing one. I have a video for that. I have some all metal heatbreaks coming, I will do a video on installing that when it comes in.
Hi there, thanks for the tutorial on this. one question... the cable into the top of mine seams to be glued in.
Yes, remove the glue with needle nose pliers or tweezers.
what if ours are bottomed out. i am quite new with 3d printing did i damage anything, hopefully not
After watching this video, it makes total sense to me now why the entire hot end wants to swing around when changing the nozzle. Come on Anycubic, you gotta do better than this.
How do you know when you need to change out the boden tubing? 'Why?
Where can i find the 3d model for the holder?
Hi, actually I have the Hit block leaking instead of the nuzzle, how can I fix it?
i keep hearing a knocking sound where the gears are in the extruder. could the gear be bad but its a new vyper
when I did mine I pinched the wires in the fan shroud I fried my main board, fans and other pieces Any cubic replaced everything it is runing again but it took months to get my parts so be carefull on reassembly.
You did not show tightening the nozzle all the way. Looks to be a gap there.
Hi Bruce, I did not show actually turning my heat block the one full turn, as I had already did that, if I did it again, it would be one turn too many. Then I did tighten the nozzle. I don't know if you meant a gap in the video, or a gap at the nozzle and heatblock, there does need to be a small gap between the place the wrench goes on the nozzle, and the heat block. That means the nozzle is "bottoming out" on the heatbreak, and not the heatblock. too many words with "heat". Let me know, If I have to, I will make another video showing the heatblock actually turning. I just didn't in this video as I didnt want the video to be too long, this one was already done, and I am doing this to a working printer, just to show in the video. Thanks!