Capricorn Center and Install, No Jam No Clog

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 เม.ย. 2024
  • This video shows how to install capricorn tubing and keep it centered on the nozzle to avoid jams and clogs.
    hese videos are not sponsored, I am just doing them to help out everyone just getting started out 3D Printing in the Vyper community. The videos and editing are all on my time, and not as easy as it looks with the editing. I am still learning also. Please be kind, suggestions and criticism is always welcomed. If you would like to help support the channel please use the paypal link.
    Support my work on Paypal
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ความคิดเห็น • 10

  • @44AudioLab
    @44AudioLab ปีที่แล้ว

    Man ! The best video on this topic, by far !! Thanks !! 🙏

  • @bnut1576
    @bnut1576 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Very helpful video! I am in the process of upgrading my hot end with a Slice Engineering standard G2 heat break and capricorn tubing, so your video gives lots of good info.
    One edit I would say is that if a person has been using their printer for any length of time, that factory bowden tube will be really stuck in the hot end with melted filament and thermal paste as you said. I did not try the loosening of the fitting trick, instead, I heated my hot end to 170 C for a min minutes to soften the hardened filament/thermal paste, turned off the machine, then pulled the bowden tube right out.

  • @monkeysnark7043
    @monkeysnark7043 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Kudos for giving us Anycubic Vyper owners content on utilitites and upgrades, unlike the gazillion vids out for Creality. Personally, I am waiting on a new stock hotend and a bi-metal heatbreak (26mm) that should be a easy swap and do away with the PTFE tube to the nozzle. This should help in so many different ways, and I looked at third party kits, and found that the ones available need some hotend attachment mods, and fan assembly mods. Besides, it is always good to have another hotend available, to either swap out the nozzle or if something goes wrong, easily, as one can damage the automatic leveling mechanism leaving it attached. As always with any change/swap out, a new calibration is in order and with the new heatbreak, some fine tuning on temp and extrusion. Thanks and regards

  • @stevenhyde7277
    @stevenhyde7277 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Hi Bob, love watching your Vids, being a total newbie to my "Waiting to Arrive AnyCubic Vyper" i`m on a learning curve, had a couple of 3D printers in the past which caused me major hassles, but your vids are simplistic in a nice way yet easy to follow & I prompt every who watches to make some small donation to your channel so you can keep up the great work, c`mon folk, help this nice guy out a bit please....(Steve from UK

  • @mikebosa
    @mikebosa 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Друг, спасибо тебе за советы. Мне очень помогло

  • @user-kx2uz6vo9g
    @user-kx2uz6vo9g ปีที่แล้ว

    Capricorn tubes gave me extrusion issues and filament grinding, changed back to stock. Are you printing higher temps, or do you find a real improvement otherwise using the cap tubes?

  • @TBL_stevennelson
    @TBL_stevennelson 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm getting heat creep. Do you think you could test the bed temps and or why the edges have these isues

    • @B3DPrinting
      @B3DPrinting  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hey Steve, what is the issue that your having? you can also email me, or message on facebook. email bobcraig10@gmail.com facebook facebook.com/bobcraig10

  • @uujims3762
    @uujims3762 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    In my case, I have to dissemble and burn the heat break to get the tube out, it’s completely glued in…….

    • @B3DPrinting
      @B3DPrinting  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Just be sure to remove the hotend from the strain gauge so it doesn't get bent.