วีดีโอ

Hi allenblack5794. I did not make it clear in the video. However, in the many comments, a very kind commenter makes it clear. The two electrical "circuits" are separated by the windings in the ignition coil. It strange as it sounds, and from an electron's point of view, the two circuits exist in harmony. I hope this helps you.

Hi! Thank you so much for watching and commenting! Best wishes to you as well!!

Hi Raymond. Thank you for watching. I have many carbs and I do sell them. You can have one if you really want one. I would like it if you had one!

Thank you for watching my video. Naturally, the gun is only used for target practice when I am outside of city limits. It sure shoots nice now. I wish I did this 10 years ago!

Thank you for watching. Good luck. It sure worked well for me. Never have I had a problem since posting this video.

Hi! Thank you for watching and commenting! Yes, I am a Farmall Fan. I have a beautiful 1944 H (Positive ground and 6 Volt). My favorite tool is a spark tester. It hooks up at the spark plug and you can physically see the spark jump the gap. These are inexpensive tools. Over the many years, I have fixed a lot of stuff with this simple tool and my Volt / Ohm meter. Good luck!! Oh, BYW: I have seen many problems with the On / Off switch not working. One of many things to test.

Hello. Thank you for watching. On my stove, the top cap is cast iron and simply lifts off. There are no fasteners of any kind.

@@bryanh1944FBH mine are all stuck on, in my trailer. That’s why I wondered it they screwed on?

Thank you for watching and commenting. Thumbs up! You are exactly right. I like the experience you have! And, both you and I understand the difference between "the spark was coming up the spark plug instead of going down". That makes all the difference in the world.

Hi. Thank you for watching. Interesting comment. Thanks!

Hi. Yes. You are correct. It is 100% OK to use a battery maintainer on a Positive ground system. Now, to be more generic about the answer (leaving color out), hook Positive to Positive. It's always best to do this at the battery as this would help avoid possible grounding mistakes.

The gas is on but won't flow through the line

Hi Steve. Thank you for watching and commenting. Very interesting comments. An education that has you determining the direction of rotation before electricity is applied is a very thorough education indeed. We just started our 6 Volt H last weekend after sitting all winter. One crank and it was running. Take it a bit easier on that snow pusher! ha ha

Hi. Thank you for watching the video and commenting. I agree with your conclusion. That thought had crossed my mind. Unfortunately, an oscilloscope is something I don't own. Shoot! I wish I owned one.

@@bryanh1944FBH Like everything complex, they have gotten cheaper, especially low-end imported versions. But really it's a good tool to borrow from a friend (or borrow the use of - bring the motor to the scope).

Yes, that's exactly right. I'm already thinking of which friend has one. Plus, I am pondering what value of shunt resistor to use if no current probe is available.

@@bryanh1944FBH As low as possible. Like an ohm or 100 milliohms. You want to minimize any influence on the behavior of the system.

Thank you. I will be driving by a surplus store tomorrow. I may stop and see what they have. I was thinking 1/2 Ohm (if they have one).

Hi Ken. Thank you for watching and commenting. Yes, clean up every connection on the generator. All the way to the block. Then, if your H is old, the generator field is grounded through the cover on the electrical box! Yeah, a bad design from IH. If the generator is not charging, this is very often the problem. On my H, I ran a braided ground wire from the L,H,D,B switch to ground. A vast improvement. My H is 6 Volt Positive ground and its staying that way. It always charges and starts.

Ha ha! I like it!! I'm laughing out loud. Thumbs up for sure! The other thing I noticed on the one my son has is how flimsy the metal base is. It deflects a lot because the metal is so thin.

And, they are not terribly expensive either.

Hi James. Thank you for the feedback. Sorry. But, you have to at least give me credit for having no music! ha ha I'll make another video of the like soon and will do it in landscape.

Thank you for watching. I am getting better all the time. I find myself plating many things now. Its cheap and easy to do. Plus, I have been plating at 1.5 Volts. So, just a standard battery can be used.

Hi! Thank you for watching my video and the comment. I appreciate it.

Hi! Thank you for watching my video. I appreciate it. Well, since I did that we went through a winter. That's when the other "fixes" always failed. This patch survived with flying colors! I have no further work to do this Spring. I wish I had done this years ago instead of "hoping" that some of that other stuff would work.

Hi. Thank you for watching my video. I appreciate it. The HF tool is so much more usable now. Unfortunately, the video is "what can be done" as opposed to "how to do it". Its because it was such a "hack" getting those wires out of the motor. The manufacturer of the motor most certainly does not approve of what I did! I feel its electrically safe. But, probably not the kind of thing that I want to show.

Hi Anthony. Thank you for the comment. Yes, I should do that. If I make a video of the drill press, I shall try that method and get a greater area. The Supco relay for the drill press motor will be here in a few days.

Thank you for your reply. Nice work!

I would like to see the bottom part of the burner head cap because there was some stove model were the burner head cap don't was deep enough to make a good ground for the spark to jump because it need the correct gap to do it if the burner cap is not aligned in the right position it will be difficult to ignite, the problem is only in the large burner, the Wirlpool tech line was recommending the use of a burner cap for a different stove model I can't remember at this moment the part number but I saw a lot of this stove having this problem, some of this tech line technitians were recommending file up a deep channel in the ignition chamber but it doesn't work, so the solution was the replacement of the burner head cap.

Hello James. I hope the video was useful to you! I too do not fully understand exactly how the device works. However, I "feel" the device also adds more run capacitance. But, I don't know that as a fact. I say this because this can be used without a run capacitor. Now, I should do a before and after Amp draw test with my Amp meter. I can positively say that the two motors I have done this to most definitely run better. I've ordered a relay for my drill press. Which will be motor number 3. Thanks James and best wishes if you do this as well.

Well I thinkthats a hard start kit and It's my understanding it has a relay or something I think potential relay(which I don't fully understand that term either) but what it does is add a larger capacitor for more current to flow thru the start winding but only for as long as it needs which is at most a couple seconds which is what appears the be happening which is why the start up current is so much higher than the run current and you can kinda hear when it's engaged and when it turns off

I'm no expert but I think the capacitor dumps a lot of current on the motor once the relay switch is activated. A bunch of motors have a starter capacitor to kick it into operation.

It gives it more power by storing energy as electrons when you have an alternating current only voltages above 80 or 90 volts provide enough current, electrons to be effective turning the motor. 6.25¹⁸ electrons is 1 Amp. Then think of a voltmeter as speedometer and you have 100 volts that allows you to move electrons at a constant rate let's say you only had a voltage of 50 that would mean that you can only supply half as many electrons the same amount of time voltages under 50 volts have no value turning a motor but they can supply electrons to be stored Either to start or run an electric motor. During an AC cycle you have half of the cycles under 50 volts supply electrons that are being used but are not really not doing any work so you are using the stored electrons to help start the motor or to keep the motor running it will show up as more amperage, current being used to turn the motor but the motor on its own could not make use of these electrons supplied by lower voltages but by storing them and adding them to the electrons being supplied by a higher voltage they can do more work electrons don't care about how fast they're going some people prefer to think of it as pressure or potential regardless it's how how fast they're coming down the pipe If they're coming twice as fast you can get twice as many in a given amount of time. Electrons are a physical thing and if 6.25¹⁸ of them past a point in a circuit it is one coulomb or 1 amp. Hell call it a bushel they must be moving to have any ability to do work Voltage is a pressure that can do no work and cannot exist without electrons moving about think about that for a minute relationships of things really matter an electrons can not move about by themselves without outside influence.

Hello! I was just sanding today with the 320 grit. It did me well! I have no issues with it. I can even buy it cheaper now since I became a member. So, I will keep on using it.

Thank you. I hope your rebuild goes well!

@@bryanh1944FBH ..got any ideas where to find float settings for a Rochester 2gc from a 1972 Buick skylark?

Ido not. Sorry.@@danielbryant5803

Thank you. It's such a simple fix (and free too)

Wonderful! I'm glad it worked for you.

Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.

Best wishes! Let me know how it goes. Remember to open up the vent hole and go real easy with the heat. Pressure test the float in hot water when you are done. Good luck!!

I just had two hair line cracks man. I sanded them down real well spread some flux on them and used my ball point soldering iron to get the metal good and hot before I dabbed solder to it. Pressure tested and no leaks. I’ll be sticking the carb back on later when I get home to let it run for a while.

@@FatkidTheBoss Excellent! I'm glad it worked out for you and the pressure test was successful. You should be OK.

Thank you. I appreciate the comment!

Excellent! I'm glad you got it yourself and did not have to pay $$$ for repair.

Hi! I am glad you got off the island. I agree. Squish it and get a new one. But, do what you have to do when you have to do it. Thanks for watching.

@@bryanh1944FBH great video, it really did help me in a pinch, I never realised they had that vent hole, the soldering part wasn't too bad either